John Cornhill

wed29 train day return to Arthurs Pass 737m above sea level = saddle in middle of mountain range thru centre of south island. scenery from train going along plains then thru valleys, gorges, edges of mountainsides thru tunnels over viaducts 70+ metres over rivers more ughs but absolutely fantastic journey. commentary too from conductor including piece about sheep and merinho wool and how they have recently developed a yarn from a mix of merihno wool and possum fur that is soft and warm. meant but forgot to ask conductor surely possums really upset at having their fur shaved off. arrived Arthurs Pass village raining, horizontal wind and rain, cold a very rugged place rains 50% of the time. had good look in visitors building very good but still raining so went out anyway did part Avalanche Peak Track where torrent of water pouring down track which was more of a climb mostly 30 degrees up then did Waterfall Viewpoint Walk short and nice then other side of village to 2 more walks, well, did I get wet? had to jump accross straggly angry streams, cross dodgy swing bridges over raging torrents and withstand 100mph wind and rain just to get to start of walks. on way found myself behind group of about 30 schoolkids (10?). they had to keep stopping to count them to see if any had got swept away so I took a different route at the first opportunity and went up the Devils Punchbowl path to viewpoint at base of spectacular waterfall where water was turning to mist and rising back up and strong gusts of wind were blowing the whole waterfall off course - the viewing platform was permanently swept by mist so it was too wet to eat my current buns even. next did the Bridal Veil Track thru willow woods then alpine pine forest ever upwards wonderful views down and accross valleys. then to the Wobbly Kea for a pot of tea, dried out a bit, chatted with Allen from Hereford just arrived driven from Mt Cook. then train back seeing views from opposite dir'n back to Christchurch 6.30 walked into centre of city. Interestingly saw tram setting off that was a restaurant - 'dine as you tram' around city. I went to Warners in Cathedral Sq had excellent lamb steaks mash pot veg weather here warm and fine so this was a very pleasant evening; on 1 hour walk back to camper went thru botanical gardens saw the 'Albert Edward Oak' first tree in park planted 1863 to commemorate marraige of prince of wales to Alexandra daughter of king of Denmark. Albert became Edward VII and she Queen Alexandra = QEII great grandparents someone tell me if im wrong.

Thurs 30 Nov a lie in then shopping in the Warehouse again incl 3 more warm shirts at 3 pounds each then drove northwards back to Kaikoura raining and windy all day camper van blowing all over the road again,. sat in it and read book when arrived John Grisham, Jury, very good. there's a second hand bookshop here where I bought it and can sell back and get another while here. All the Best, John

John Cornhill

forgot to mention yesterday Hooker about 10k was snowing lightly for about half of walk but not cold it was sunny most of the time strange weather. Went back to campsite after hooker where bright sunshinee and all the cloud had lifted off mount cook so sat in chair next camper van and read book with cup of tea bliss.. Met John and Lesley from surrey in neighbouring camper hes just retired too.
Tues did Tasman valley walk up to Tasman glasier much harder higher walk 15 - 20 k I guess went all the wat to bells hut then 500m past til climb got too steep for me. glacier an awsome sight it was moving could hear it sometimes bangs mostly crackling as if someone with a big botton was slowly sitting on a giant bag of crisps. nearly at top came accross a beach! with sand, a small pond. bantham type grass incongruous. got back to camper 2.30 drove to christchurch. all the best JohnJohn Cornhill

John Cornhill

mon27nov Now IN mount cook village inputting this. buildings look small and fragile against immensity of mountains. parked up in the village which is mainly a tourist centre with hotels and chalets. bought myself a smsll rucksack in shop and set off on Hooker Valley Track whick had some pathway but also scrambling over rocks, traversing a narrow ledge on side of mountain and TWO horrendous swing bridges which were planks of wood laid across a suspension bridge just enuf width for one person at least 20m above raging torrent ugh. Interestingly lots of different colour rocks and stones light grey, dark grey almost blue, rust red, orange, green and pure some white. finally got to end of walk more a tramp at Hooker Lake which had icebergs floating in it and the highest mountains incl cook 3754m rising uo from its shores but guess what oh dear oh dear no cafe just the lake and mountains I had promised myself a bluebarry muffin and nics hot cup of tea so walked back to village. did 2 small bush walks. now going back to camp for that tea. see you soon JohnJohn Cornhill

John Cornhill

Hello dont know why this is blue sunday eve now. left Christchurch this morning drove south west aiming for Mount Cook highest mountain in nz 3700m? Found myself in Burkes Pass strickingly splendiferous scenery, lupins all along roadside for miles and miles mauve, yellow, blue, pink seem wild but only along roadside.Then over a hil, round a corner and wow lake pukupi massive and bright pale blue I found out later caused by very fibne particles of rock scraped down by glaciers over the centuries. Astounding vistas with the lake surrounded by mountains and moorland with low scrub and natural grasses in between. Camping at Glentanner Park right next to the lake and surrounded by snow-capped mountains. sun is shinind in contrast to the rain and wind in the first half of the journey. Going to mount cook village tomorrow about 20k further along side of lake. Best wishes to all, John. John Cornhill

John Cornhill

fri 24 am pottering, afternoon on beach very hot and sunny lots sun protection needed a bit like bantham read and slept lots. evening did Waimakariri Walkway near camp 11k between Brooklands Lagoon and Spencer Beach. lots of pines and coastal flowers and bantham grass. a very pleasant walk.

sat25, am went shopping in 'the warehouse' bought 2 cheap wicking tops and a warm shirt. then went to antarctica, travelled on a hagglund all-terrain vehicle with caterpillar tracks and proved to be amphibian when we went thru a 5m deep pool of water. we also went up and down a series of steep hills including a 45 degree up and down a 2 storey high ridge. then back to the main building wherein the exhibition, right next to Christchurch airport, had a whole series of attractions including interactives, covering the history of antarctica's formation, Scott, the weather there, penguins incl. some live ones on show, seals, birds,, sea life. There's a freezing cold room you can go in with real snow and ice and they turn the temperature down to -5 degrees and blow a freezing blizzard at you taking the wind chill to -18 degrees c why did i go in? Lots of other stuff to see stayed longer than intended but still went on to the nearby Willowbank Wildlife Reserve which also turned out to have more than I expected, a veritable feast of wildlife presentaed in a woodland walk: stroked a huge eel, meandered thru the lost swamp, saw wallabys, parrots, kunekune pigs, tuatua (ancient lizard) among lots of others and all importantly, my first kiwis and possums. the lady running the campsite had an orfan one when she was young. she called it peter possum. what can I say. I especially enjoyed the day because I got into both attractions at a pensioners reduced price. happy days, John John Cornhill

John Cornhill

wed22 no whaling due to weather so went on maori tour led by Maurice (or Morris?) a full blown Maori with cheifs as ancestors plus his neice very unusual and interesting went to fortified village site, shown various uses Maori make of plants and herbs, heard lots about Maori culture and history and revival now taking place in culture and language.. went on bush walk saw 500 & 800 year old trees. tea in Maurice house with wife, sister, 2 kids, neighbours and scones devonshire like (but not proper cream of course). enjoyed it, lots of laughs.

thurs 9am whale watch saw 3 sperm whales mostly looking like logs but quite close up then they dived and taile went up in air very impressive. then maybe 100 dusky dolphins in a pod incl lots baby ones all around boat. also albatroses they really are big birds up to 2m wingspan. eXCELLENT DVD films before and during trip on boat in between sightings, very good commentary fron rather nice looking lady. all very good nothing to eat though. thurs pm drove to just outside Christchurch - spencer hol park looks good a bit remote but I have the camper! Happy times, John Cornhill

John Cornhill

Mon 20 Picton excellent campsite near to harbour and town. Wa;ked a glorious section of the Queen Charlotte Track today from Torea Bay to Mistletoe Bay having been boated from Picton to the start and collected by another boat from finish. Tramper up high ridge 407m above sea level along and up and down looking out over Queen Charlotte sound one side and Kenepuru sound and Portage Bay on the other. The whole area is acalled The Marleborough Sounds - they look like fjords but are sounds which are river valleys drowned by the sea (fjords are drowned glacier valleys). On the jetty at Mistletoe Bay were an american couple waiting for theirr packs to be brought; they had been walking 3 days and camping in between their packs being delivered by boat to each overnoight stop. Everything and anything organised for the tourist here. a fantastic place to be, have taken photos but doubt they will convey the splendour of it all. found a cafe doing roast meal, excellent.
Today (is it Tuesday?) drove to Kaikura 2 and half hours lots of grass plains and hills then suddenly sea (pacific ocean) right next to road then snowtopped mountains on the other side wow. stopped to see a seal colony on rocks right next to the roadside. Even nicer campsite in Kaikura laid in the sun by the poolside all afternoon going whale spotting tomorrow! Lin thanks for your comment somebody anon has gone in and added their comment using my id but obviously doesnt know you are my cousin! more comments welcome including from anon Take care everybody John Cornhill

John Cornhill

Just completed 3 days of travelling.....all stress free! gave myself plenty of time, enjoyed the views, no hassle. friday left Bay of Islands 7.45am, stopped for lunch sitting in chair right alongside long (1k?) lake (Waikato?) Moara Roa Reserve - quiet and peaceful. continued on to Taupo on edge of lake Taupo very nice camp site walked into town found myself looking over huge gorge makes avon gorge look small brilliant blue/green water spectacular. had a bungee jump platform over the water. ugh. also nearby thermal baths/swimming pools/gym complex. I might come back here on way back up thru to Auckland.
Saturday drove to just north of Wellington stayed at a slightly tatty site called Kurtons Motor Camp in Porirua horrendous weather rain wind cold did my washing, read for a while, early night.
Sunday 10.35 ferry to south island wow spectacular views leaving north island sail west accross Cook Straight to Tory Channel and into Queen Charlotte Sound this is a very long narrow fiiord with lots of waterways in all directions and steep hillsides going up 100's meters covered in trees that look like miniatures and bush cant use spectacular again more than that fantastic sight will see it again going back. Now on camp site in Picton on south island. Hope to do some walking here. All the Best,
John.... John Cornhill

John Cornhill

Monday attended Maori performance in the meeting house at Waitangi. after a very realistic welcoming ritual we were treated to song, dance and narrative with lights and sound effects taking us through the history of the Maori people in NZ. It was excellent, very powerful performances.

Tuesday had second dolphin watch another 4 hours cruizing around the islands saw many more new ones all spectacularly beautiful. Thoroughly enjoyed but guess what no dolphins. another free trip tomorrow.

Wednesday raining and windy dolphip trip cancelled too rough. Did woodland/coastal walk to Opua instead. pretty creeks and bays, very old woodland. Opua has car ferry to Russell, wharves, marina, boatyards and a restaurant on stilts with a glass covered hole in floor to watch the sea underneath. Fish and chips excellent.

Thursday 3rd and last attempt to see dolphins. another 4 hours another free hot chocolate but no dolphins. what a shame its just luck I hope they all get run over by the ferry. Going south tomorrow.John Cornhill

John Cornhill

Hello again Saturday = day2 in Bay of Islands what a great place this is. Took Kings fast ferry to Russell accross part of the bay. Russell was the major port in early 19th century full of history critical to the formation of NZ as a nation. Visited museum, then on to a house called Pompelier with lots of history including its original purpose as a tannery and bookbinding to make bibles for Maori in their language. All very interesting but most interesting of all was the Maori lady doing the presentation especially when she was sidetracked into Maori history; fascinating. Also visited oldest church in NZ, graveyard included Maori some of whom were instrumental in the historical process (before they died). Also saw Duke of Marlborough. Been there in Russell from the beginning but this is fourth building, the first destroyed by Maori, second and third by fire. Ferry back to Paihia (Pie-hee-a) where found brilliant restaurant pork or lamb plus 6 veg 18 dollars big portions no idea what 2 of the veg were I think I'll go back.

Sunday up early for dolphin watch and swim. Saw australasian gannets, one and a half metre wingspan, diving vertically at great speed into water, apparently they have excellent eyesight for fish and can go very deep to catch them. Cruized around island after island, absolutely beautiful all different shapes and sizes trees down to the sea. But saw no dolphins. Brilliant NZ BBQ lunch on Urupukepuke Island steamed fish, pork, sosage and loads salad some of which I didn't recognise. Ate it all. Transferred to bigger boat which took us to Cape Brett 'hole in the rock' drove boat through the hole. This is regarded as a major attraction! working hard to develop their tourist attractions bless them. Went on third vessel called 'naughtilus the submarine' which is basically a glass sided hull that you go down into and they close the curtains at each end and pretend to dive/submerge with lots of bubbles and submarine noises then they chuck fish food over the side and lots of fish come alongside the glass I most enjoyed watching the 2 year old dutch girl as the fish, some quite big, swam past her big round eyes. then the klaxons sounded, we were entering a minefield lots of emergency noises then metal banging against the hull then a single mine bobbing along outside the windows until it suddenly got hauled back onto the deck. very realistic........actually we were always in water about 2 metres deep but it was fun..Back to the big boat, more cruizing around islands with some historic commentary breathtaking scenery. A super day in the bay even without the dolphins whose absense gets me another free trip on Tuesday to look again so will have to stay in the Bay of Islands longer. Hooray.John Cornhill

John Cornhill

Picked up camper van toyota hiass cruiza deisel with fridge microwave toaster sink running water cutlery cooking ttools plates bowls mugs heater o/s chairs table bedding loads of storage all very good. Howevver very windy even for NZ ''like a smsll twister' someone said camper is high you can stand up inside blown sideways accross lane blustery drove 5 hours to NE of north Island. Now camped in Beachside Hol Park 5m from waters edge excellent view od bay from back of camper as Idrink my cup of tea. also a dvd player in the camper!
Visited Waitangi Treaty grounds where historic treaty signed by Mauri cheifs and British 1840 fascinating. a very proud nation.Also did coastal walk to Paihia must find out how to pronounce it. aNOTHER UPDATE SOON jOHNJohn Cornhill

John Cornhill

Had a very pleasent but short time with Wayne, Lorraine, Sam the dog and Megan(daughter and Sam(friend). Wayne drove Lorraine and me up to 'Sky High' Mount Dandenong where there are views for mile over Melbourne and its suburbs its a very spread out city. We had a nice brunch then back to watch the Melbourne Cup for which all of Australia stops its a holiday for everyone then a bbq in the evening with another family headed by Robin a very enjoyable time sorry to be leaving catching plane to NZ wED 12.45.

NOW IN NEW ZEALAND. met and had a meal with Cynthia and Bill really pleased to see them again hope to meet up again towards the end of my time in NZ NOW ABOUT TO COLLECT CAMPER VAN. All the Best,
John John Cornhill

John Cornhill

Well here I am IN TORQUAY. visited the Surfworld surfing museum and walked along 4 of Torquays beaches on first day great beaches lots of surf and surfers excellent fish and chips. Staying in a cabin on camp site very comfortable. Second day Sunday did day trip along Great Ocean Road. Sue/Wendy please tell periletic Geoff how right he was to tell me this is a must. Amazing sights of cliffs, beaches, the ocean, forest travelling along this road that goes up, down, around, over bridges, under trees, twisting turning wonderful. Our driver/guide was Foggy she careered around corners shouting yahoo and generally made the trip most entertaining and enjoyable. Her favourite saying was 'its all good' and she was most definate that the kangaroos lying by the roadside were just sleeping. Visited Bells Beach famous for surfing championships. Stopped at Kennet River cafe where wild Koalas were everywhere in the trees, parrots flew down to join us for lunch. Foggy put some bird seed in a tray and 3 kookaburras came to visit one of which (of the kookaburras) let me stroke its chest and almost came on my hand, put one foot on. walk thru the rainforest was interesting to realise how different it was to forests further north. also walked along beaches golden sand between raging ocean and huge cliffs of bright orange/cream/red/white sand/limestone. fantastic. Foggy took us to Suicide Point where she anounced how fed up and unhappy she was, lept out of the bus and jumped straight over the wall on the edge of the cliff and disappeared down the other side. How quiet everyone went on the bus. She had seemed such a happy person then her head appeared over the wall and there was a small ledge the other side which she had hoped was still there when she jumped over. What a commediene. Had a good look at the 12 apostles of which only 8 left very striking sticking up out of the sea. Foggy also showed us, on two occasions, echidnas on the edge of the road, screeching to a halt for the first one for us to take photos it didn't move though I think she knew exactly where they would be, probably nailed them to the roadside on previous visits. Saw some more fantistic coastline with narrow inlets with sheer cliffs on either side, also 'London Bridge' which had been a large stack of rock in the sea joined to the mainland by a bridge but the bridge collapsed a few years ago trapping a tourist couple on the stack lots of media coverage including television from helicopters which was watched with great interest by his wife and her husband. A great trip enhanced by Foggy's guidance got back 9pm also on trip mostly young people from canada, india, sweden?, 3 girls from essex a great group. 3rd and last day in Torquay today Monday, catching bus to Melbourne this afternoon to meet Lorraine M&Ms daughter + husband Wayne they have 2 daughters Kristie and Megan. Really looking forward to seeing them. NZ Wed. Take Care, John John Cornhill

John Cornhill

Hello again forgot to mention saw echidna in the bush whilst walking with Mike and Maureen. I was very pleased about this as the only previous sighting was in the Koala Centre where only a backside in a log was visible. These animals look like large hedgehogs but are in a class of their own because they lay eggs but are not reptiles or mamals. Next and last day with M&M was a drive with Mike to Bermagui a fishing and holiday port, Cobargo, then all up through the Bega Valley. Visited Bega cheeze factory very interesting to read all their info on the dairy industry. Enjoyed an italian meal in the evening, caught bus for Torquay the next (friday) morning John Cornhill