Friday, January 30, 2009

Kuala Lumpar Fri 30 Jan 09

Kuala Lumpar Fri 30 Jan 09
Well here I am in Kuala Lumpar, the capital city of Malaysia, at the end of my 3rd and last day here.
The flights from Phuket had to be changed but then went well. Fascinating large model display of serpents and gods at Bankok airport.
Taxi driver from KL airport to hotel didn't stop talking, very proud of his country, especially low income tax!
Day 1 (Wednesday) here, took City Tour, first stop Petronas Twin Towers, now the 4th tallest building in the world (tallest is in Dubai if you remember from my visit there). Next a gift shop?!, then Beryl's Chocolate Factory - interesting charts explaining history and production of chocolate, bought Beryls dark chocolate with mango filling for Jo/Wayne and Philip/Faye.
Next to King's Palace - Here the King is a sultan appointed for 5 years then replaced by another.
Then to the museum, a relatively new building necessitated by the americans accidentally bombing and completely destroying the old one and all its contents. They were aiming for the railway line being used by the invading japanese and missed. The new museum is very impressive, including sections on the creation of land masses and the continents as they are now, rocks, politics and religions (mainly Islam here, but government says religion is an individual thing, not a state matter). Briefly chatted to Korean father there with his family. Interestingly, he/they work and live in Ho Chi Minh City (Saigon), Vietnam.
Next on to The National Monument to fallen soldiers in 3 wars, 1st and 2nd world wars and the 1948 - 60 war against communism. Designed by an americann and built in 1965, it is an impressive and fitting memorial. Chatted here with a lady from Mumbai (Bombay) as we returned to the bus.
I arranged for the bus to drop me in the Colonial District next to Mendeka Square which has a beautifully tended english cricket ground on which, in a ceremony in 1957, Malaysia formally became independant from Britain. Around the Square is an eccentric collection of colonial-era buildings, including British and the fashionable Moorish style of the time. I spent the rest of the evening wandering around Chinatown or 'Little China', including Jalan Pataling which is a long covered street packed with stalls down the middle and small shops along the sides selling everything you can think of. There is a teriffic buzz about the whole area, a great atmosphere.

Day 2 (Thursday) my main focus is Little India, the commercial centre of KL's Indian community. This area also has a covered street market, although there is a predominance in the shops for garments and materials, especially for saris and songkets, also jewelry retailers. Even busier than Little China, here there is a much greater concentration of locals with fewer tourists. Sat in a street food 'hall' surrounded by locals voraciously consuming rice and chicken with their fingers. It is just a large piece of street covered with a tin roof, with food stalls along 2 sides cooking various local dishes and tables and chairs in the middle. A constant stream of customers make for a non-stop bubbling atmosphere, I guess a major meeting place in this Little India. I just had a cold green drink, no idea what it is but looks and tastes good.
Next I see some of the main buildings nearby, The Jamek Mosque, St Mary's Cathedral, The Royal Selangar Club (very British) the Flagpole (tallest in the world) and the Central Market. The last is a huge 1920s brick building updated to house a miriad of small shops selling crafts, clothes, souveners etc - nicely done although clearly aimed at tourists.

Day3 (Friday) visited Bukit Nanas Forest Reserve, a section of tropical forest preserved in the centre of the city in what they call the 'Golden Triangle'. I took the forest walk to the Menara Tower, the 5th? tallest telecom tower in the world built on a hill in the middle of the forest. Nearby back in the forest, I found the Arboretum which turned out to be a well marked path through a section of trees with loads of information on plaques alongside dozens of trees, bushes, undergrowth and fungii, a botanists heaven. Also walked around a herbal garden and the info. centre. 43% of Peninsula Malaysia is covered with tropical forest. Next spent some time wandering various trails (actually muddy paths but well marked) through the forest. Also 'Bamboo Walk' along which there are several massive bamboo bushes. All very relaxing. At one point in the depths of the forest, noises in the branches above made me look up to see a troup of monkeys leaping about and playing in the trees. I counted about 8 plus 2 babies just learning how to negotiate the branches. Stood there for ages watching them, they took no notice of me.

Now back at the hotel, got to prepare for 7.15am flight to Borneo tomorrow morning.
All the Best,
John

Sunday, January 25, 2009

Phuket 26 Jan 09

Phuket 26 Jan o9

Been here over 3 very pleasant and enjoyable weeks now.

Not much to report, just beach, meals, bar, bed, beach, meals, bar....etc..

Except last Friday, An took a day off, we went to a 'spa' on the edge of nearby Kata, almost in the jungle. Alternately in the sauna and cool plunge pool, then a Thai massage which is mostly a muscle stretching thing, pulling you in so many ways you wouldn't imagine or think possible. Very invigorating though. Then, after visiting some friends, we drive about 12 k to a place called Phromthep Cape. This is a high point near the sea with beautiful views of the coastline and several islands. It is a favourite spot for watching the sunrise and sunset, we got some excellent pictures. Also here is a Buddhist shrine to which people bring elephants as gifts to Buddha. (Carved, mostly wooden elephants, not real ones). Nearby is a statue of a 19th century Siamese prince who trained with the British Royal Navy then returned to Siam to be in charge of and update their Royal Navy. Next we visit a lighthouse museum and climb the stairs for even more views of the coastline. This is a very beautiful place.

Next we go shopping in Patong and I am pleasantly surprised to see they have a large modern shopping complex that would have sat comfortably in the centre of any British large town or city. The main difference is that everything stays open til 10pm or later here.
Had an excellent Thai meal in a restaurant that is a favourite of Ans. A very enjoyable day all round.

Tomorrow I fly to Kuala Lumpar, staying there 3 days. Next update from there.

All the Best, John

Friday, January 16, 2009

Phuket Fri 16 Jan 09

Phuket Fri 16 Jan 09

Weather still perfect, very little cloud except one day with 50%. Beach superb, sea full of jellyfish but have to go in around them to cool down. Is this heaven on earth?

Had a haircut by mai, a very nice lady, (4 pounds) incl. free trimming of eye brows, nose and hairs sprouting out of ears.

Watched man mending electricity cables strung across poles by sitting on adjoining bunches of cables. Good job it wasn't raining.

Went to 'Export Fair', an annual event here, 12 - 21 January, lots of stalls, some with lovely smells, I don't normally eat from stalls but may not be able to resist next time.

Wednesday, went on day trip with An to Phang Nga Bay, another area full of beautiful islands. The main activity on this trip though was climbing from the main boat into small canoes, just me and An and the 'driver San?' then paddled literally into the cliff face of one of the islands, into very low, long, narrow cave. The rock is limestone with very jagged stuff from the sea attached to it so it was best to adhere to advice and not touch. Beautiful shapes and contours in the roof and sides of the cave. Maybe 50 metres in, we come out into a fantastic lagoon with maqngroves growing in the middle and steep, tree-lined sides going up 100/200 metres to the top of the island and blue sky above. It is called mangrove cave and is just beautiful. Got some great pictures but they will not convey the real atmosphere and beauty of this place. Noticed that the tide was coming in, this obviously was lowering the height of the tunnel/cave, I think we got out just in time, one of the last canoes to emerge back into the open sea.

Next we see James Bond Island, used in one of the 1970s movies. Then lunch on the boat and it was superb. This thai food is consistantly so good I think I am getting hooked on it.

Next to another island, Hong Island, and ,more canoeing, this time into another, larger lagoon with more towering scenery all around. Fantastic place.

Next to Lawa Island for some time on the beach and a bit of do it yourself canoeing then home. A wonderful day.

That evening, 5 of us went to Patong again, after a meal in the hilltop restaurant. Me, An, Andy, an incredibly powerful looking but very friendly (fortunately) german policeman, Alex a chef and friend of Andy, and Sa, a friend of An and Andy. We had a drink in one of the music bars with scantily clad girls dancing on the bar tops all around us, I was glad we had the girls with us for protection. Then to the same disco An and I had visited a few days ago, great music but not much variation. I think we got back at about 2.30am , not too bad.

Take care everyone, All the Best, John

Saturday, January 10, 2009

Phuket 10/1/9

Phuket 10/1/9

Sorry to hear it's been a bit cold over there. It's lovely here.

In Phuket nearly a week now, having a fairly quiet time including every afternoon on the beach. Some jelly fish in the sea though. The weather has been kind to me after, I am told, much cloud in the weeks before I arrived. I have had maybe 10% cloud except yesterday 50%, rain one evening only.

Went to nearby large town Patong with my friend from previous visits An wednesday evening having been admonished for never going there before. Patong has seemingly thousands of bars, pubs and discos. An took me to a small roadside bar run by some of her friends, then on to an irish pub where there was some excellent live music, and lastly to a wild disco with loud heavy music and a dance floor packed with thousands of revellers having a great time. We left at 2.30am but aparently it would be going on til 4 or 5am.

Friday I finally got to see Phi Phi (pronounced pe pe not fi fi) with An. A one hour speedboat ride got us to the islands by 10am where we see the beautiful landscape of Maya Bay. Huge tree covered rocks loom out of the water forming a variety of beautiful and sometimes grotesque shapes. (the place reminds me of Ha Long Bay off Vietnam although this is not of the same scale)
Then to Loh Samah and Pilch Lagoon, the latter formed by the top of a volcano long since dormant and sunk into the sea except for its topmost rim. We pass by Viking Cave in which there are ancient murals left by pirates (unlikely to have been painted by vikings I suspect).

Next we are taken to 'monkey beach' where monkeys come down from the trees and interact with tourists lured by bananas. They bit at least one tourist while we were there. Got some good photos before going back to the boat for some snorkelling. There are beautiful corals just below the surface and shoals of small brightly coloured fish swimming in packed formation around and through us. I am getting the hang of this snorkelling now, having done it for the first time off Australia. (Still not going right under though.)

Lunch was excellent, a selection of thai dishes with white rice in a beachside restaurant on another fantastically beautiful island. Lastly to Khai Nai Island where we relax on a blissful white sandy beach before returning to the Marina.

A perfect day from beginning to end.

All the Best, John

Wednesday, January 07, 2009

Chiang Mai to Phuket 4 January 2009

Chiang Mai to Phuket 4 January 2009

Arrived back in Chiang Mai 3 and a bit hours before plane due to take off at 08.20. Just enough time to pack and get some money from a nearby ATM. Said a sad farewell to Pon. During our event packed and marvelously enjoyable 5 days, she had told me with some pride that her grandparents are of the Shan people - she is certainly very resourceful and inteligent and I guess she has inherited this from them. I would like you all to visit her new restaurant/bar in Chiang Mai, you can get flights for around 600 pounds and I promise you it will be well worth it, Pons cooking is excellent and she is very particular about quality and cleanlines.

Arived Phuket on flight 1 hour late, now 2 out of 3 Air Asia flights delayed. (Might be Bangkok Airport at fault of course). Met at airport, driven in very smart Toyota to Green Island guest house, very friendly and comfortable.

Met Tony and Paddy and Mrs Paddy in Green Island bar, the men run a waste collection, sorting and recycling busines out of Dublin. Tony is the boss and was very interesting to talk to. Flying back the next day though after 3? weeks here. Had too many Chang beers, hangover lasted most of next day.

Planning a quiet 3 weeks here, although will probably visit fi fi highly recommended by my australian friend David on Vietnam/Cambodia tour last year.

Will report rather less often during my stay here. Flying to Malaysia 27th?

All the Best, John

Tuesday, January 06, 2009

Chiang Mai 3 January 2009

Chiang Mai 3 January 2009 day5 = day 3 of tour

Up at 7am to go to Mae Hong Son market where Pon buys some ingredients for her new restaurant. Then up to Doi Kong Mu Temple 200 years old overlooking the city. A 9 piece band of child musicians in local costume is playing traditional music, a beautiful place to be. Next, at last, we have breakfast in the same restaurant by the lake. I fancied an english breakfast but they don't do those here so settled for toast, poached eggs and bacon. Also asked for fried tomatos, this caused much consternation (I think I should have said grilled) but they eventually arrived as a separate course with fried egg mixed in - delicious.

Now Pon announces we are going to visit the long neck village. We drive to a place by the river where there is a shop, a ticket office and a jetty, buy our tickets and board a longboat. For maybe half an hour, we are taken down river through stunning forest and river bank scenery, just breathtaking beauty. We arrive at the river-side village to see that all of the dwellings are timber and reed built with large thick dried leaves used as roofing material. The people of the village come originally from Myanmar (Burma) whose border is nearby. They have this tradition in which some of the girls, according to the day of the week and the month they are born, have rings fitted around their necks starting at 5 years old and gradually adding more so that their necks become extended. Apparently it is not uncomfortable for them, despite having maybe 12 inches/300mm long necks when they reach adulthood. We met several of these ladies and bought a few things from them and took some photos. The girls are very pretty and everyone seemed to be very happy in the village. We visited the village primary school where many of the posters and charts around the walls of the little clasrooms were teaching english. The main language of these people is myanmar, so the are learning 3 languages, myanmar, thai and english. We also went up to the senior school at the top of the hill. The children are on holiday but I put an entry in the visitors' book and some money in the donation box. The whole village is a charming place with friendly happy people where the long neck girls and ladies are just an integral part of their culture. Back to the boat and another entrancing journey up river, then an ice cream from the shop.

Back to Mae Hong Son and visiting to more temples 40 tear old Wat Jung Kiang and Wat Jung Khan. There are paintings and woodcarvings brought from Myanmar 100 years ago.

After a late lunch we walked around the stalls again, buying various snacks including pumpkin in a mysterious sauce, little soft round balls of varying colours in a sweet soup, battered fried onions, coconut jelly and bang mae pancake.

The day ends with a 7 hour overnight bus journey back to Chiang Mai. This was may last day in north Thailand for this trip. I will never forget this day.

All the Best, John

Monday, January 05, 2009

Chiang Mai 2 January 2009

Chiang Mai 2 January 2009 Day 4 in north Thailand, day 2 of tour

Up early and away from campsite into Pai for breakfast in roadside restaurant obviously frequented mainly by locals - noodles and soup, not sure what in it but very satisfying start to the day. Walked around slightly less crowded streets of Pai, bought matching red t shirts for Leon and me, more street entertainers, a busy happy place.

Then a visit to Num Hu Temple, on top of a mountain with breathtaking views over Pai and surrounding forest, when not shrouded in mist which gives the feeling that you are on an island floating above the clouds. After a coffee here, on to Unan village, a chinese community showing traditional homes and shops.

Now we leave Pai to travel to Mae Hong Son. On the way we stop at spectacular view points again, and also at 'Fish Cave'. I was intrigued as to what this might be, especially when we arrived to see an attractive park area with a stream ruinning through it but no sign of a cave. Followed Pon along a wooden walkway alongside the stream, over the bridge from where we could see lots of carp-like fish, called soro brook crap (carp?) fish, swimming against the current. At the end of the walkway we came to a cliff face with a hole in the rocky ground at the bottom going down to the stream flowing underneath. We could see probably 2 to 4 square metres of stream down through the hole and it was packed tightly with layers of these fish still swimming against the flow but mostly not moving position. Some of the fish were quite big, maybe 500mm long, and Pon told me there is at least one huge fish down there but it mostly stays deep. It was a strange and fascinating sight.

Arrived Mae Hong Son 6pm and checked into Guest House, then to dinner in the Be Bear Restaurant by the side of the lake in the middle of the town. More excellent genuine thai food and service, just a blissful place to be. Spent the rest of the evening wandering around the numerous market stalls. Have to be up early tomorrow so not too late to bed. Will report on day 3, a truly memorable day, tomorrow.

All the Best, John

Sunday, January 04, 2009

Chiang Mai January 2009

Chiang Mai January 2009

New Year's Eve. Pon has a new restaurant/bar in Chiang Mai, not ready for proper opening yet but we go there anyway, she has beer and facilities for bar-b-q so we have a great evening with friends from tour company eating lovely food and drinking til 3am. During the evening, thousands of lanterns are being released into the sky all over Thailand, it is a spectacular sight to see them all floating in the night sky. Nearby is a reggae dance hall/bar packed with revellers, also many other clubs, bars and dance halls around the square, lots of music and party atmosphere, it is a great place for Pon's new restaurant.

1 January, a bit late up in the morning, meet Pon at 10 to start 3 day tour of north west Thailand. We head for mountains and they are spectacular. The road is very steep, up, down and around many tight windy bends through thick natural forest. For many miles I am spellbound by the sight of this beautiful place. We stop twice at high viewing points and get some great pictures. We stop again at one of the many roadside stalls to buy jacket sweet potatos, very tasty.

We arrive at Huay Nam Dang, a tourist park at a high point in the mountain forests, this was a favourite place of the King's late sister. The whole area of forest covered mountains is a national park spreading from Amphur Pai to Amphur Mae Taeng. The highest peak is Doi Chang. We look around the visitor centre and walk around the park getting some more great photos.

Next, on to Pai, a very popular destination for Thai tourists, especially this year due to a movie made here in 2008. Pai is packed with visitors from all over Thailand, I didn't see a single western person. There are thousands of stalls in walking streets packed with people. Entertainers comandeer sections of streets for their performances - music, singing, dancing, drumming, children doing knife acts and dancing in a llama costume. Wonderful atmosphere. I bought a rattle for Leon and a pink bouncing giraffe for Ruby. Had a very Thai meal in a restaurant near the Cafe d'tist where the film was made in the centre of Pai, a bit salty for me but still enjoyed it.

Then to campsite for the night, first time in a tent since pre-caravan racing days, but very warm and cosy so had a good night. Will report on day 2 of the tour tomorrow,
All the Best, John