English Tea House & Borneo Jungle Mon2 - Fri6 Feb09
Yes, I paid a visit to the English Tea House. It is a restaurant on top of a hill overlooking Sandakan. I had shoulder of lamb Malaysian style, a bit tough but fully compensated by superb sauce. Then blueberry and Lychee crumble with custard, yes custard, delicious. They also make an excellent cup of tea (a rarity out here). Chatted with Michelle the waitress who has worked there since it opened 7 years ago and has 4 children, all girls.
Now I am going to Bilit Lodge on the edge of the Knabatangan River in the rainforest/jungle with Ray and his wife Hamdia, who is very pretty. Hamdia was brought up just down river from the Lodge and will stay with her mother who still lives there. On the way we stop for lunch at the restaurant in Sepilok Jungle Resort and I meet Ray's 'big boss', John Lin who is also a local leader. He is getting ready to travel to Sandakan Airport to be a part of the delegation to meet The Sultan of Brunei who, with his family, is paying a visit to the area. The authorities have put up thousands of flags to welcome them.
Next we have a 2 and half hours drive, through mainly Palm Oil plantations, to the bank of the Knabatangan River. Now we are deep in the rainforest. There are many trees here and it is raining. We cross the river in a small totally open motor boat which has planks of wood across it to seat 8. There are only 3 of us plus bags so plenty of room. The Lodge is a series of timber buildings joined by a long raised wooden walkway under which there is a lot of water overflowing from the river. Right next to the edge of the river is the dining area with wooden tables and benches and very welcome tea and coffee. Everything is built on stilts but the water is not far from the bottom of some of the walkways and the ground floor of a storage building. All of the people here are very happy and friendly. There are boatmen, guides, the cook, cleaners and general helpers. Some of their wives and children are there sometimes, making it a family atmosphere. This is a great place to be.
However it is raining. February is between the rainy winter season and dry summer so we are a bit unlucky but press on anyway with the trips. First we go down river in the same boat, me and Ray, 2 Swedish girls and 2 grey-haired Italian guys. This river is 530 km long and about 100 metres wide just here. It is quite fast flowing with much debris, logs and other bits of trees whizzing by. In the trees we see 2 families of Long Tailed Macaques, 2 families of Proboscis Monkeys and a Pygmy Borneo Elephant (the monkeys were in the trees, not the elephant). It is raining so didn't take many photos but got a few good ones. Then back to Bilit Lodge for dinner, basic Malaysian but very tasty and welcome. I chat to the girls, they are 22 and 26 and on a six month self organised tour of Asia. Their next stop is Bali.
Next day we are up and ready at 6am. Sadly the Swedish girls have departed, they arrived a day earlier than us. This time the boat goes up river and turns off into a very narrow waterway into the jungle. We dodge branches and vines, going very slowly, we eventually get to a large lake called Oxbow because it is shaped like an ox's horns. Around the lake we see more Macaques in small groups in the trees, also a Serpent Eagle and several Snake Birds (they have long necks). Going back through the waterway, we have to duck under a very large spider waiting for prey in the middle of it's web. Back to the river and the Lodge for breakfast.
For our second trip today, we go upriver again but this time we are dropped of on the bank and have to walk for an hour to the lake. Led by Ray, then me and the 2 Italians and a helper bringing up the rear. Well, it is very wet and muddy. We have all hired wellies and leech proof socks but the mud and water is up to the tops of our boots. Ray looses a boot 3 times finding the best route, stuck in the mud. At one point, he can't find a way around a large puddle with thick jungle either side, so he cuts down a tree (he has a very sharp knife, they were headhunters until quite recently in this area) and lays it across the puddle and we have to balance across it. Along the way we see huge millipedes, long thin ones maybe 30 cm/1 ft long and short fat ones 2 inches diameter. They are not edible. More spiders, and we have to keep checking for leeches. They can jump apparently, can be small or quite large and they feed on your blood. You feel a sharp prick when they start. When we got to the lake we all had to take our shirts off to check for leeches, so was sorry the Swedish girls weren't there for me to assist them in this task. I had 4, all on my clothes fortunately, although one of them is in my pocket and was attached to my camera. You have to pull really hard to get them off. Now we have a picnic lunch on a timber platform by the lake, vegetable rice, chicken and fish. I chat to the Italians, I think they are a couple, they have been travelling the world for 25 years, six months travelling, six months working to pay for it. Next onto the boat for the trip back to the Lodge and free time which I use to catch up on some sleep.
The third boat trip today (5th in all including the first river crossing), we go down river. It is still raining, heavily now, and the Italians decide to give this one a miss but we have 2 young girls, children of Lodge workers, with us. We see more Proboscis and Macaque monkeys and get very wet! Then dinner and an early night. We have a 5am departure time tomorrow, extra early because we have heard that there is a bridge down on the road back to Sandakan.
Next morning, Ray, Hamdiah and me are collected by the boatman (the same one throughout, a great guy, always happy and helpful). By now, much of the walkway, the landing stage and the ground floor of the store are all under water. We board the boat from a higher part of the walkway, the boat having been brought in across what should be land. We are taken across the now very swollen river to the car which fortunately is a 4x4, and make good time until we get to the stationery queue back from the broken bridge not far from Sandakan. I need to get to the airport for my flight back to Kuala Lumpur and there is obviously no way we are going to get the car through to the broken bridge, let alone across it. So Ray organises someone to meet us on the other side, we get my bags and walk! The bridge is easy to walk across, in fact the 4x4 could have made it but might have done more damage in the process. We meet the other car, where I have to say a sad farewell to Ray and Hamdiah and I am driven to Sandakan Airport.
Now I am in Bangkok on the way back to England. My 6 week trip is nearly over. I am looking forward to seeing everyone again, especially Leon.
All the Best,
John
Saturday, February 07, 2009
Tuesday, February 03, 2009
Sandakan - Sepilok - Tues 3 Feb 09
Sandakan - Sepilok - Tues 3 Feb 09
Collected on time 8.30 this morning and driven to Sepilok Orang Utan Rehabilitation Centre. My guide is Ray 32, a local Malay man recently married who speaks good English clearly and proved to be excellent. At the Centre, we walk quite a long way through the forest on a raised timber-built walkway to a viewing area. We can see man-made platforms about 10ft up several trees with ropes linking the trees. Then Ray points out an Orang Utan sitting partly behind a tree. Gradually, more appear as feeding time approaches. Higher in the trees, Long Tailed Macaques and Pig Tailed Macaques also wait and play. (They are nothing to do with the Centre, just wild monkeys making the most of a food opportunity).
Gradually, the whole area gets more crowded - there are 6 Orang Utans, 2 adult males and 2 adult females each with a baby clinging to her. About 15 Macaques are jostling for position as the 2 Rangers arrive with the food on the nearest platform to the viewing area, fruit and sugar cane. While the OUs feed, the Macaques try to steal stuff, from under the platforms with their hands appearing through the planks and over the edge of the platform, and running on and off as the Rangers try to shoo them away. The Orang Utans take no notice of the Macaques though, they just contentedly munch away with the Rangers sitting next to them. Got some good photos and (hopefully) video footage. Eventually, the OUs have had enough, and swing back on the ropes to their nests hidden away and the Macaques finish the rest of the fruit and cane. By this time, the Rangers are throwing food to the several females carrying babies. All very moving and inspiring stuff.
Next to the shop where I buy 2 very small T shirts and shorts for Leon and he or she who has yet to arrive (the latter blue top and pink shorts just about covers it I think). Then the video show - brilliant I thought so got a copy on DVD, let me know if you want to watch it. Briefly met a Chinese lady with her daughter whilst waiting for the film to start. Interestingly, the lady who sold the DVD to me is English. I asked her how she came to be here, she was a journalist who, some years ago, came to Sepilok as a tourist and was so inspired she joined the UK end of the organisation and started doing talks and presentations on the UK sponsored charity that supports the Centre. One day they asked her if she would like to help in the Centre, so now she comes here for 3 months every year and has changed her UK career to conservation work.
Anyway, back to the tour, when I booked it in Sandakan, I chose the full day for 220 rather than half day for 140 (5 = 1 pound) and this proved to be an inspired choice because lunch is included. It was excellent, coleslaw to start, chicken, greens and chips for main course, then fruit and coffee. Basic, but I really enjoyed it.
Next Ray shows me around the centre and the nearby Jungle Resort. First we see a Pied Hornbill high up in the trees making a terrible racket. I get some really good pictures with the light grey cloudy sky as background. Later we hear but do not see the Rhinoceros Hornbill, a different sound altogether. Later again, I hear another sound but when I ask Ray what this is, he tells me it is a car alarm. The Jungle Resort is definitely the place to stay if any of you are thinking of coming (rather than Sandakan which is not geared up for tourists, it is really an industrial town (oil and cars)). The Resort is fairly newly built, including accommodation, a large outdoor pool and relaxing area and brand new restaurant and spa. Come in April/May (or maybe March) though, to avoid the rainy season which we are now coming to the end of.
Now we go back to the viewing area for the 3pm feed. Same routine but it is raining so only one of the males appears, the other presumably not wanting to get his hair wet in the rain-forest. The male is called Mirico, and the 2 females Britney and Clenea. Towards the end of this session, a large Macaque suddenly appears on the walkway fence coming towards us. It walks past as if we are not there. Got some good photos. Then lots of them come up among the tourists. They can be aggressive (the Macaques) so we are told not to make eye contact or smile and show our teeth or they may attack.
Then an Orang Utan appears, also walking along the walkway. She is a pregnant female that we have not seen before. She also ignores us and goes by me only inches away as I take photos of her. Then she sits on top of a post, almost as if posing. More excellent photos and then just watch her and enjoy her company. Eventually we are shooed away by Rangers as it is time to close the Centre and leave the apes in peace.
What a great day, much helped by Ray. He is collecting me again tomorrow for the Jungle river 'cruise' and treks , a 2 day and night trip. Might be a couple of days before I can report on this.
Take care everyone,
John
Collected on time 8.30 this morning and driven to Sepilok Orang Utan Rehabilitation Centre. My guide is Ray 32, a local Malay man recently married who speaks good English clearly and proved to be excellent. At the Centre, we walk quite a long way through the forest on a raised timber-built walkway to a viewing area. We can see man-made platforms about 10ft up several trees with ropes linking the trees. Then Ray points out an Orang Utan sitting partly behind a tree. Gradually, more appear as feeding time approaches. Higher in the trees, Long Tailed Macaques and Pig Tailed Macaques also wait and play. (They are nothing to do with the Centre, just wild monkeys making the most of a food opportunity).
Gradually, the whole area gets more crowded - there are 6 Orang Utans, 2 adult males and 2 adult females each with a baby clinging to her. About 15 Macaques are jostling for position as the 2 Rangers arrive with the food on the nearest platform to the viewing area, fruit and sugar cane. While the OUs feed, the Macaques try to steal stuff, from under the platforms with their hands appearing through the planks and over the edge of the platform, and running on and off as the Rangers try to shoo them away. The Orang Utans take no notice of the Macaques though, they just contentedly munch away with the Rangers sitting next to them. Got some good photos and (hopefully) video footage. Eventually, the OUs have had enough, and swing back on the ropes to their nests hidden away and the Macaques finish the rest of the fruit and cane. By this time, the Rangers are throwing food to the several females carrying babies. All very moving and inspiring stuff.
Next to the shop where I buy 2 very small T shirts and shorts for Leon and he or she who has yet to arrive (the latter blue top and pink shorts just about covers it I think). Then the video show - brilliant I thought so got a copy on DVD, let me know if you want to watch it. Briefly met a Chinese lady with her daughter whilst waiting for the film to start. Interestingly, the lady who sold the DVD to me is English. I asked her how she came to be here, she was a journalist who, some years ago, came to Sepilok as a tourist and was so inspired she joined the UK end of the organisation and started doing talks and presentations on the UK sponsored charity that supports the Centre. One day they asked her if she would like to help in the Centre, so now she comes here for 3 months every year and has changed her UK career to conservation work.
Anyway, back to the tour, when I booked it in Sandakan, I chose the full day for 220 rather than half day for 140 (5 = 1 pound) and this proved to be an inspired choice because lunch is included. It was excellent, coleslaw to start, chicken, greens and chips for main course, then fruit and coffee. Basic, but I really enjoyed it.
Next Ray shows me around the centre and the nearby Jungle Resort. First we see a Pied Hornbill high up in the trees making a terrible racket. I get some really good pictures with the light grey cloudy sky as background. Later we hear but do not see the Rhinoceros Hornbill, a different sound altogether. Later again, I hear another sound but when I ask Ray what this is, he tells me it is a car alarm. The Jungle Resort is definitely the place to stay if any of you are thinking of coming (rather than Sandakan which is not geared up for tourists, it is really an industrial town (oil and cars)). The Resort is fairly newly built, including accommodation, a large outdoor pool and relaxing area and brand new restaurant and spa. Come in April/May (or maybe March) though, to avoid the rainy season which we are now coming to the end of.
Now we go back to the viewing area for the 3pm feed. Same routine but it is raining so only one of the males appears, the other presumably not wanting to get his hair wet in the rain-forest. The male is called Mirico, and the 2 females Britney and Clenea. Towards the end of this session, a large Macaque suddenly appears on the walkway fence coming towards us. It walks past as if we are not there. Got some good photos. Then lots of them come up among the tourists. They can be aggressive (the Macaques) so we are told not to make eye contact or smile and show our teeth or they may attack.
Then an Orang Utan appears, also walking along the walkway. She is a pregnant female that we have not seen before. She also ignores us and goes by me only inches away as I take photos of her. Then she sits on top of a post, almost as if posing. More excellent photos and then just watch her and enjoy her company. Eventually we are shooed away by Rangers as it is time to close the Centre and leave the apes in peace.
What a great day, much helped by Ray. He is collecting me again tomorrow for the Jungle river 'cruise' and treks , a 2 day and night trip. Might be a couple of days before I can report on this.
Take care everyone,
John
Sunday, February 01, 2009
Sandakan, E Malaysia (N E Borneo) 2 Feb 09
Sandakan, E Malasia (N E Borneo) 2 Feb 09
Arrived here Saturday morning from KL with no problems, spent the rest of the day wandering around Sandakan. The town was razed during the war and rebuilt afterwards with blocks of flats and shops at street level in a grid system. Now nearly 60 years old they are looking rather the worse for wear. However there is a very large central market, a concrete building covering maybe 1 acre. It is a busy bustling place, and at one end, a wet fish section with the biggest fish you can imagine, all shapes and colours. I think this might turn out to be the most interesting place in the town! Found the Sepilok Adventure Shop and booked myself on 3 tours.
Sunday, collected at 9am for boat ride to 'Turtle Island'. The 'speed boat' was an extremely basic affair, not really suited to even the moderately rough seas we encountered in the Sula sea, but the 9 of us stoically survived the 1 hour 'ride'. After checking into room on 'turtle' island (actually Selingan Island), we had the rest of the day to ourselves. What can you do on a sandy tropical island with palm trees and warm blue sea all around? So we just had to swim and lie on the beach and read books all day. I went snorkeling but saved the 5 pounds hire fee by using my goggles. Just as well as there wasn't much to see, just a few solitary fish, there were more fish off the Phuket beach, shoals of them there. Walked all around the island, a beautiful place, then lunch which was white rice with chicken and greens, very good. Fell asleep on the beach in the afternoon in the shade of a ground level palm tree, then evening meal, rice and fish and greens also very good. Then a long wait before being taken down to the beach at 10pm by a Ranger. Didn't waste this time though, chatted with 2 girls from Estonia (a civil servant and an accountant!), a couple from Manchester(event organisers), an American couple and 2 girls from Bridgend and Sussex.
The management and organisation of the 3 islands here, where Green and Hawksbill Turtles lay their eggs, is well structured and sophisticated. Every turtle that comes to the beach is tagged and logged. Its eggs are counted and removed to be re-buried in a hatchery where they and the hatchlings are protected from predators, such as rats and birds and humans (turtle eggs are still openly available in some countries markets). The hatchlings from each turtle's clutch of eggs are counted, there is an 80% success rate. Then the hatchlings are released in bunches on the beach near the sea, avoiding the perilous journey from the nest across the beach. Sadly, a very small percentage survive to adulthood, but the work of the Rangers must be having some effect to help these endangered species.
We were taken by the Ranger to see a turtle laying her eggs in the hole she had dug, an incredible sight. She was big (the turtle), over a metre long and nearly as wide. The Ranger scooped the eggs out into a bucket. When she had finished, the turtle pushed sand back to cover the (empty) hole. We left her to rest before making her dummy hole (to fool predators) and shuffle back to the sea.
Next we watch the Ranger bury the eggs in the hatchery, in a hole marked with the date, turtle ID and number of eggs (73 in this clutch). Lastly we go down to the shore to watch that evening's hatchlings being released, they are funny to watch as they waddle the few feet down the sand into the sea. Again, an incredible sight.
Bed at 11pm, up for breakfast this morning at 6.30, on the 'speedboat' for another hour's torture at 7, back in hotel in Sandakan at 8.30, then went back to sleep again! The whole thing a memorable experience.
Orang-utans tomorrow, All the Best, John
Arrived here Saturday morning from KL with no problems, spent the rest of the day wandering around Sandakan. The town was razed during the war and rebuilt afterwards with blocks of flats and shops at street level in a grid system. Now nearly 60 years old they are looking rather the worse for wear. However there is a very large central market, a concrete building covering maybe 1 acre. It is a busy bustling place, and at one end, a wet fish section with the biggest fish you can imagine, all shapes and colours. I think this might turn out to be the most interesting place in the town! Found the Sepilok Adventure Shop and booked myself on 3 tours.
Sunday, collected at 9am for boat ride to 'Turtle Island'. The 'speed boat' was an extremely basic affair, not really suited to even the moderately rough seas we encountered in the Sula sea, but the 9 of us stoically survived the 1 hour 'ride'. After checking into room on 'turtle' island (actually Selingan Island), we had the rest of the day to ourselves. What can you do on a sandy tropical island with palm trees and warm blue sea all around? So we just had to swim and lie on the beach and read books all day. I went snorkeling but saved the 5 pounds hire fee by using my goggles. Just as well as there wasn't much to see, just a few solitary fish, there were more fish off the Phuket beach, shoals of them there. Walked all around the island, a beautiful place, then lunch which was white rice with chicken and greens, very good. Fell asleep on the beach in the afternoon in the shade of a ground level palm tree, then evening meal, rice and fish and greens also very good. Then a long wait before being taken down to the beach at 10pm by a Ranger. Didn't waste this time though, chatted with 2 girls from Estonia (a civil servant and an accountant!), a couple from Manchester(event organisers), an American couple and 2 girls from Bridgend and Sussex.
The management and organisation of the 3 islands here, where Green and Hawksbill Turtles lay their eggs, is well structured and sophisticated. Every turtle that comes to the beach is tagged and logged. Its eggs are counted and removed to be re-buried in a hatchery where they and the hatchlings are protected from predators, such as rats and birds and humans (turtle eggs are still openly available in some countries markets). The hatchlings from each turtle's clutch of eggs are counted, there is an 80% success rate. Then the hatchlings are released in bunches on the beach near the sea, avoiding the perilous journey from the nest across the beach. Sadly, a very small percentage survive to adulthood, but the work of the Rangers must be having some effect to help these endangered species.
We were taken by the Ranger to see a turtle laying her eggs in the hole she had dug, an incredible sight. She was big (the turtle), over a metre long and nearly as wide. The Ranger scooped the eggs out into a bucket. When she had finished, the turtle pushed sand back to cover the (empty) hole. We left her to rest before making her dummy hole (to fool predators) and shuffle back to the sea.
Next we watch the Ranger bury the eggs in the hatchery, in a hole marked with the date, turtle ID and number of eggs (73 in this clutch). Lastly we go down to the shore to watch that evening's hatchlings being released, they are funny to watch as they waddle the few feet down the sand into the sea. Again, an incredible sight.
Bed at 11pm, up for breakfast this morning at 6.30, on the 'speedboat' for another hour's torture at 7, back in hotel in Sandakan at 8.30, then went back to sleep again! The whole thing a memorable experience.
Orang-utans tomorrow, All the Best, John
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