Wednesday, January 31, 2007

Wed 31 Jan. 07
Spent all day in the Coral Boutique hosted by Cecelia. Very nice. Started 10am with a one-hour deep tissue massage by an Indian gentleman. He was thorough and must have had a go at just about every muscle in my body. Even did my feet but this was the worst because he made them tickle and I had to be very stowicle then he pulled every toe so that they clicked one at a time ouch but I was very brave. He must have used a gallon of oil on me so had a shower after (that nearly scalded me), one of those with water coming at me from all directions, gave me quite a surprise. Then did a bit in the gym, not too much, I don’t like to overdo it at my age. Then another shower with more nice surprises then a swim in the pool on the roof. This pool has been especially designed by architects to maximise the possibility of injury or drowning – underwater steps that you can’t see then a level bit then a sudden steep slope down that you also can’t see to about 2m. – little blue tiles all over the tank that make steps, slopes and edges invisible. Plonkers. Then laid (i.e.lying down) in the sun reading my book. Finished with yet another shower to get rid of the sun lotion. Back to the apartment 5.30. Fran came to visit in the evening. Then takeaway chinese and tele.. All very civilised. Bestest to All, John

Tuesday 30 Jan 07

Tuesday 30 Jan
Took a taxi to the Creek to visit Sheikh Saeed Al Maktoum House and the Al Fahidi Fort, both of which have been converted into museums. The Sheikh’s House, built in 1896, is typical 19th century Arabian architecture with a large central courtyard surrounded by a two-storey set of rooms and 4 wind-towers for air-conditioning. The rooms were living quarters for the Sheikh and his family plus meeting rooms for the governing of Dubai by the Sheikh. The rooms now contain exhibitions of artyfacts going back to 3rd millennium BC; rare photographs of Dubai taken between 1948 and 1953; photographs and other exhibits recalling the pearl diving, fishing and boat-building industries which were the drivers of Dubai’s economy before oil; photos and paintings depicting the social and sporting life here over the centuries and, lastly, a coins and stamp display. All beautifully laid out with lots of explanatory notices.
The Fort was erected in 1799 to defend Dubai against invasion (they don’t mention by whom?) The ground floor now contained exhibits of boats, houses (shacks?) made from materials from palm trees, a well and, interestingly, cannons. Recently, they have added an underground labyrinth of static displays, hands-on exhibits, hologram movies, and information cases that lead you through the life and times of Dubai, its people and the environment they lived in. The sea and the desert are central to the history of Dubai, with lots about boats and camels. The Creek provided a safe harbour for trading vessels and the people of Dubai appear to have fully capitalised on this, becoming a major trading port for pearls, gold, spices, cloths, fish, boats and loads of other stuff. There are miles of back street markets, called souks, each specialising in one of the types of trade, much of which is wholesale as well as retail. Fascinating to stroll through and watch the bargaining with many of the locals in traditional dress.
Evening went to the pier leading to 360 degrees but too late for sunset, then to the Jumeirah Beach Hotel (the wave building) up to the 25th top floor - what a view (a bit high though, what must a 100 storey view be like?). Then to a hotel bar for a drink, saw a bit of the local cup final, which the Emirates won 1 – 0, lots of celebrations. Then to the Marina to an Iranian restaurant for a very interesting and enjoyable meal.
A full and great day.
All the Best to all, John

Sunday, January 28, 2007

John Cornhill

John Cornhill
Sat 27, Sun 28 Jan 07
Hello all, Saturday was a very pleasant day relaxing on the beach including picnic lunch. We were very near to the Burj Al Arab, self-styled 7 star hotel in the shape of a sail built 321 metres high on a man made island just off the beach. Inside, if it looks like gold, it is gold, 8000 sq. metres of it. They collect you from the airport by helicopter or in one of their 14 Rolls-Royces. £1,000 – £7,000 per night plus coins for the electric meter. Also nearby was the Jumeirah Beach Hotel with 619 rooms shaped like a wave and also the 360 Degree Restaurant which is on the end of a pier, circular shaped with glass all round. You can also see from the beach the building sites of the ‘World’ and one of the ‘Palms’. Both are residential developments offshore in the Gulf in the shape of their ‘names’ for ex-pats with plenty of money. Just glorified housing estates really, I’m not jealous. Rod Stewart has bought the GB island in the ‘World’. Saturday evening – BBQ at Fred and Elizabeth’s. Met Huw an Oxford and Cambridge Graduate who turned down a place with one of the big 4 Accountancy firms to become a teacher here. Fred is a structural engineer working on an international exhibition centre and Elizabeth is the Head of a local school. A very enjoyable evening.
Sunday caught the BIG BUS tour of Dubai. Shown tallest to-be building (again) under construction. It will be an 800 – 900 meters high (nearly a kilometre) Lego design so that they can add floors if someone else builds one higher. They won’t divulge the currently planned height in case someone builds one higher. Dubai is obsessed with having the biggest/highest/mostest of everything. It will be an incredible place to visit when it’s all finished in about 5 years time, although I’m sure they won’t stop then. They are deliberately investing to create the bestest tourist destination in the world to complement then replace their oil industry when it runs out. They are building or planning Asia Asia, a 6,500 room 5star hotel, a 6 runway airport twice the size of Heathrow, Dubai Mall to be the size of 50? Football fields, Mall of Arabia 70 football fields needing 5 days to walk around, Dubailand = 2x Disneyland in Florida, 3 Palm Islands and the World mentioned above, an underwater hotel currently being constructed in Germany, and lots more including a massive Dubai Marina. The last is a huge building site (down the coast from the main city area) that the BB took us around. The Marina itself is a 3 kilometre man-made inlet surrounded by high rise blocks. One complex will contain 20 high rises, 16 of which are apartments and 4 hotels, plus everything anyone could need i.e. fully integrated. This development alone is currently employing 20,000 workers through 24 hours a day, 7 days a week. Most of the skilled and manual labourers come from India, Africa, the Isle of Wight and other non-oilrich countries desperate for work. All of the apartments, built and unbuilt have been sold (but how many to speculators I wonder).
The enormity of it all is breath-taking. Dubai currently contains two thirds of all of the cranes in the world. It’s massive.
Had an evening meal with Jillian in the nearby Mall of the Emirates (3rd largest in the world, guess where the largest is?)
All the Best, John

Friday, January 26, 2007

John Cornhill

John Cornhill
Friday 26 Jan 07
Had a great day today. We had been invited to a picnic in the desert, so met up with the Al Abbar family and followed them through Sharjah and Ajman to Umm Al Qaiwain where we left the road and drove through the sand dunes to a place where other families had already set up tents, shades, tables, lights and generator and even a toilet. Most of the others there were sleeping over. The children were fully occupied on a very long steep slope in the dunes. Some even had snow-boards and were boarding down the slope. Lunch was 4 kinds of fish, perfectly cooked, with rice and salad. I ate mine with my fingers as people do here and it was delicious. Also had a giant piece of cake and lots of slices from a pummelo, a giant grapefruit. It was a sunny day with a slight breeze, all very relaxing and pleasant.
In the evening with Jillian, Fran and Angela went to the Al Sahra Desert Resort - 30 minutes out into the desert from Dubai. Here every day is staged a play designed to celebrate Arabian history, culture fables and folklore. The audience sits on sofas in an outside amphitheatre setting. The play is performed on a stage in a large lake with rocky backdrop. It was a story of a king, his two sons (princes) and a kidnapped princess narrated by Omar Sharif and performed by ballet dancers and gymnasts with (loud) music, huge and striking cinematic images, laser beams and water springing up everywhere in fountains and jets, and fireworks. The pyrotechnics created a fantastic visual effect to complement the dancing and the actors. The play is called Jumana (Secret of the Desert) and is a breathtaking must if you ever happen to be in this area.
Take care everyone, see you soon,
John

Thursday, January 25, 2007

John Cornhill

John Cornhill
Wed 24
We also visited the camel racing track on this day. No racing on but lots of camels being exercised and trained on and around the track, which is a 10k oval. Got some good photos.
Thurs 25
Took a taxi to Jillian’s school to support their school-fair. Bought a burger, hot dog, some books and a hot chocolate.
In the evening, with 4 lady teachers Jillian, Fran, Angela and Liz, went to a Horse Racing meeting on the main Dubai track. Entry to the track and a competition to win a car are free. All you have to do to win the car is pick the seven winners. I got 0 out of 7. The ruling Sheikh of Dubai, Sheikh Mohammed bin Rashid Al Maktoum, was there with lots of dignatories from Dubai and the international racing fraternity. Frankie Detori and other top jockeys, trainers and owners were all there. Beautiful track, grass and dirt, with plenty of seats and grassy areas. The meetings here are very much a family affair with picnics and kids running around everywhere. No alchohol or gambling of course, (except in clubs and hospitality suites). A very enjoyable evening.
All the Best,
John

Wednesday, January 24, 2007

John Cornhill

John Cornhill
Wed 24 Jan
Went to Sharjah Desert Park with Fran, friend of Jillian. Fran teaches at an Arab school that, unlike Jillian’s British school, has a two-week holiday at this time of year. On the way to the Desert Park, we stopped to look at the Sharjah Cultural Capital 1998 Monument which was a very tall sennataph standing on its own in the desert. Sharjah, I should explain, is one of the 7 emirates that make up the United Arab Emirates each of which is an independent sheikdom. As well as Dubai, the other emirates are Abu Dhabi, Ajman, Fujairah, Ras Al Khaimah and Umm Al Quwain. Abu Dhabi covers by far the largest area. Dubai is the second largest. The UAE is bordered by Saudi Arabia to the S and W, and by Oman to the N and E. It has a long beachy coastline on the Arabian/Persian Gulf to the NW and the Gulf of Oman to the E. On the other side of the two gulfs lies Iran (formerly known as Persia).
The Sharjah Desert Park comprises 3 main attractions, all of which Fran and I visited. The Wildlife Centre focuses on Arabian fauna, contains over 100 species and emphasises the responsibility of us humans for past losses through extinction and future preservation of wildlife and their habitats. (An interesting parallel with Australia was their concern for the disappearing mangroves) The reptile house contained lots of different snakes including the puff adder, vipers and cobras, as well as lizards, monitors, frogs and toads and deadly spiders. Then there is a huge walk-through aviary with waterfall, river, lake and rocky areas (and birds of course). The nocturnal house enabled us to see honeybadgers, jackals, porcupines, several species of foxes and mongooses (mongeese?), all moving about and many of which I had never seen before. Also on view in large ample areas were wildcats, sand cats (very pretty), caracals, cheetahs, a leopard, wolves, baboons, oryx, ibex, gazelles and flamingoes. Lots of information in english and arabic, a brilliant place to visit. Sadly no photographing allowed though.
Next the museum, again a brilliant set of displays with much emphasis on the geological history and development of the Arabian Peninsula. Excellent.
Lastly the childrens’ farm area with the usual stuff very nicely laid out including two rather over-familiar camels.
Ended a perfect day with a takeaway chinese (meal). Best Wishes to all, John

Tuesday, January 23, 2007

John Cornhill

John
Mon/Tues 22/23 January
Two quiet days. Walked along to nearby Mall of Dubai which appears to contain every shop you can think of , from Debenhams to Harvey Nichols to Boots as well as hundreds of small specialist shops. The top of the ski slope sticks up and out from one end of the mall. The mall goes to 4 storeys high but the top of the slope must be the equivalent of 12 to 15 storeys. On Monday also walked a neighbours dog a couple of times during the day; a soft white fluffy thing that would make an excellent rug. Back at the apartment two local boys turned up for tutoring by Jillian who got back from work shortly afterwards. Their father owns the company that supplies and installs the glass in many of the most prestigious developments here. They came again on Tuesday with their elder brother. The children here have to learn 3 languages, arabic, english and usually french; but the arabic they have to learn is a traditional version that is quite different to the everyday spoken language – a bit like italians having to learn latin I guess. So really they are learning 4 languages, as well all of the usual subjects. Tuesday I tried to get into the Keplinski Hotel gym but a very nice reception lady said it is too small to admit casuals so I used the apartment block gym; some of the equipment doesn’t work but there was enough for me to do!
Forgot to mention on yesterday’s blog:- I rode a camel. bloody long way up! good views though. Jillian got some photos. Must try again to get photos onto the blog. I quite fancy going camel racing while I’m here.
Back to the present, this evening (Tues) had an excellent meal with Jillian at the Sezzam with an excellent view of the skiers and snow boarders. Very pleasant. See you all again soon, been here 4 days already. All the Best,
John Cornhill

Monday, January 22, 2007

John Cornhill

John Cornhill
Hello all again. Second day Sunday 21st was equally full and enjoyable this being an extra day off for Jillian (who normally works on a Sunday) due to the new year. (the weekend here is Friday which is islamic societies' main observance day, and Saturday)
Started with brunch at Wendy’s (two lovely fried eggs) house in Springs, a two storey housing development on the edge of the city. This brunch was actually our second breakfast so a great start to the day. Went up the creek with Jillian again and this time took an abra (see 20th) to the other side of the creek where we walked around the spice souq then the gold souq. The souqs are closely packed markets where hundreds of merchants sell their wares in concentrated areas. The sight and smell of all those spices and associated products like nuts and sweets is striking and unforgettable (even by me). The gold souq is equally impressive with startling amounts of gold on display.
Then went back to the Heritage Village where newyear celebrations still going on so got some photos this time. Also fortunately had room for some of the arab pancakes with egg and cheese being made by the ladies in the big tent – very tasty they were too (the pancakes). Also went round the Diving Village – this is the traditional area frequented by pearl divers where they make tools for extracting the pearls and nets for catching big shellfish (crabs, crayfish?). Some fascinating old characters here, got some good photos.
Happy New Year to you all,
John

Sunday, January 21, 2007

John Cornhill

John Cornhill
Hello and Dubai……………Hello all again. Here I am in Dubai staying with Jillian West who was a teacher with Chesham Prep. until August 2005 when she took a 3 year contract to teach here. I flew out of Heathrow (T4, what a horrible place, queued one an half hours to check in with BA) Friday evening, arrived Dubai 8am Saturday (+4 hours). Sunny and warm here, how is it back there I wonder? The most striking thing about Dubai is the huge amount of development completed and underway. Hundreds of high rise buildings for offices and accommodation, new housing areas and roads everywhere. Jillian’s apartment is near a shopping mall and ski resort but on her side on the 4th floor looks out over acres of sand with two other apartment blocks standing in isolation in the ‘desert’ and a low rise community in the distance. Nearby is the 14 lane highway that goes through the suburbs and eventually to Abu Dhabi. The apartment is very spacious with a large sitting room, dining room with balcony, two bedrooms, three bathrooms and kitchen. There is a swimming pool on the roof, but with no water at present due to a leak which is a very bad thing to have in a pool on the roof.
Visited Fran, friend of Jillian, who has an apartment in another block, where we relaxed on sun-beds alongside her roof pool in the sun for a few hours. This was very welcome after the flight.
Jillian then kindly took me to the creek that winds its way into the centre of the city from the Arabian/Persian Gulf. We visited the Bastikia Area in which old living quarters have been preserved and re-constructed typically with a central courtyard surrounded by living rooms plus a wind tower designed to draw cool air down into the rooms. Also walked passed the Rulers Court which is Dubais government buildings, then around the Majlis Art Gallery and then the Zayad University Exhibition on the life of the late Ruler of Abu Dhabi and President of the United Arab Emirates, Sheikh Zayad. The Sheikh is revered as a great leader and visionary who massively influenced the development of the Emirates. We had an excellent meal in a restaurant alongside the creek on which hundreds of abras (water taxis) rush up, down and across whilst much larger dhows, carrying cargoes, and other vessels trundle throught the creek. Didn’t see any collisions though. Had Moutabel and Baba Gannou, both aubergine based, dips with flat bread to start, then I had Hummour fish – very tasty – with mixed veg and also tried a bit of Jillian’s King Fish also beautifully cooked.
Walked on to Heritage Village where the local community is celebrating their new year. Watched groups of man dancing and chanting in traditional dress (which many wear daily anyway) comprising Condora (white full length shirt) Shemarg (white or red and white head-dress) plus Agle which is a thick black cord band that secures the shemarg and is also used to hobble camels. Also watched and listened to bag-pipe bands and children dancing. Everyone happy and enjoying themselves, a great place to be.
Best Wishes to everyone,
John