Rajasthan 29.12.9 - 1.1.10
Hello again all, yes now I am in India at the starting hotel in Delhi for a 2 week tour of Rajasthan.
I arrived in the early hours of Wed 30th local time (Delhi is five and half hours ahead of UK).
After a long lie-in, I spent the rest of the day walking around the nearby streets. The hotel is situated in a busy downtown area consisting of a series of parallel main streets, linked by many narrow lanes, all filled with small shops at ground level with restaurants, offices, apartments and more shops at higher levels. Thousands of shops and street stalls, hundreds of thousands of people, cars, tuk-tuks(pedal and motorised), motor bikes, bicycles, all battling for space and a way through the melee. It is chaos but mostly friendly chaos.
Not so friendly are the horns. Every motor vehicle has one and it is used unstintingly and aggressively. I think some of them have had amplifiers fitted. (bicycles of course have bells, sadly swamped by the horns and all the other noise of these bustling streets). All drivers are impatient, all pedestrians and other vehicles are impediments to their progress which is interrupted at their peril. Parking is anywhere and everywhere. Pedestrians walk mainly in the street because the pavements are blocked by shop displays and stalls. Electrifying chaos.
This evening I have my first genuinely Indian meal. My choice is restricted (I come from South Devon, my family didn't do 'spicy' in those days) but I enjoy chicken kebab and mutton somethingorother.
Thursday 31st I take metro into Connaught Place. Canned sardines have loads of space compared to these trains. It is a fast modern service at a ridiculously low price, about 15p. Once in the carriage, you cannot turn around or even move your feet. If you are too far away from anything to hold, you have to sway with the crowd as the train accelerates and decelerates. It does neither smoothly. An equivalent tuk-tuk journey cost about £2 but is rather draughty. A taxi would be maybe £5 but I haven't been that extravagant yet.
Connaught Place is a British built, huge circle of buildings, maybe a kilometre around, with a park in the middle. The buildings have been badly neglected but are undergoing renovation as one part of major structural works in preparation for the 2010 Commonwealth Games. As with the Olympics in Beijing and World Cup in South Africa, these events certainly stimulate governments to invest in their countries' infrastructures.
At ground level, there are smart shops, restaurants and fast food establishments. Much of the upper stories seems to be derelict. The whole area is a building site. Let's hope they succeed in transforming Connaught Place back into the beautiful and impressive place it could be.
It is New Year's Eve, the celebrations are beginning. Hundreds of armed army personnel gather in the park then spread out around Connaught Place. Police are everywhere. Mid-evening I catch the metro back to my hotel area.
After a very enjoyable biriahni in a nearby vegetarian restaurant serving South Indian food, I see in the new year amongst the local population. There is fireworks and much excitement. And now it is 2010. The tour starts at 6pm today, the 1st.
All the Best, John
Thursday, December 31, 2009
Monday, December 07, 2009
South Africa Sun 6 & Mon 7 Dec '09
South Africa Sun 6 & Mon 7 Dec '09
Sun 6 day of rest, reading book.
Mon 7 start whole day tour at 8am, just me and driver/guide.
We drive for one and half hours westwards out of scrubby bush into the foothills of the Drakensburg Mountains, gloriously green with tall trees and fruit and nuts growing in the fields.
Scones with cream and jam at the Coach House then a guided tour of the nearby nougat factory. Everything manual including wrapping each individual nougat 'sweet'. Well worth visiting here for the free samples.
Then to Magoebaskloof and its tea plantation, but it has been compulsorily purchased by the Government and handed to the local Makguba Tribe. With no help or support, they have been unable to maintain it resulting in a tea jungle. A shame, but there is still the Pekoe Tea Garden which has fantastic views across the valley.
Next to Debege Water Falls, spectacular and dangerous, with several plaques commemorating youngsters killed after falling from the slippery rocks. These make a beautiful place sad.
Whilst driving up the side of a mountain through astonishingly beautiful forest, my guide tells me about elephants' incredible sense of smell. A group of men are lined up. As an elephant sniffs each one, he is told the mans name. The elephant turns his back to the men who then throw their hats into a pile. The elephant is told to find Fred's hat and give it to George. He does it correctly. Then Joe's hat to Jim. Etc and he gets it right every time. Then they throw George's hat in the pile. George is not one of the men sniffed by the elephant today, he was in a group sniffed 6 months ago. The elephant successfully picks out Georges hat. They are that good at remembering smells and their owner. It's a pity they are a bit big for checking bags at airports.
We visit Haenertsburg, a very pretty village.
Then Sunland Baobab Tree. It is over 6,ooo years old, huge, and has a pub inside the trunk. Incongruous and not to be missed when you visit South Africa.
We drive on, through Modjadje, a town with thousands of small dwellings spread over hundreds of acres. On to the Modjadje Nature Reserve, created mainly to preserve a forest of Cycads, Modjadje Palms some of which are 1000 years old. Their fruits look like large pineapples and are much loved by the hundreds of Vervet Monkeys populating the area. (These monkeys have the largest vocabulary of the monkey world, 36 different sounds used to communicate)
On the return drive we see Sable (3 sightings, close up) and Buffalo in the distance.
My thanks to Annelize for suggesting these places to visit. It has been a great day.
A long day, 11 hours and 420 kilometers. My last day. I fly out tomorrow, back in the UK Wednesday afternoon. Thanks for reading my ramblings, till the next trip, All the Best, John.
Sun 6 day of rest, reading book.
Mon 7 start whole day tour at 8am, just me and driver/guide.
We drive for one and half hours westwards out of scrubby bush into the foothills of the Drakensburg Mountains, gloriously green with tall trees and fruit and nuts growing in the fields.
Scones with cream and jam at the Coach House then a guided tour of the nearby nougat factory. Everything manual including wrapping each individual nougat 'sweet'. Well worth visiting here for the free samples.
Then to Magoebaskloof and its tea plantation, but it has been compulsorily purchased by the Government and handed to the local Makguba Tribe. With no help or support, they have been unable to maintain it resulting in a tea jungle. A shame, but there is still the Pekoe Tea Garden which has fantastic views across the valley.
Next to Debege Water Falls, spectacular and dangerous, with several plaques commemorating youngsters killed after falling from the slippery rocks. These make a beautiful place sad.
Whilst driving up the side of a mountain through astonishingly beautiful forest, my guide tells me about elephants' incredible sense of smell. A group of men are lined up. As an elephant sniffs each one, he is told the mans name. The elephant turns his back to the men who then throw their hats into a pile. The elephant is told to find Fred's hat and give it to George. He does it correctly. Then Joe's hat to Jim. Etc and he gets it right every time. Then they throw George's hat in the pile. George is not one of the men sniffed by the elephant today, he was in a group sniffed 6 months ago. The elephant successfully picks out Georges hat. They are that good at remembering smells and their owner. It's a pity they are a bit big for checking bags at airports.
We visit Haenertsburg, a very pretty village.
Then Sunland Baobab Tree. It is over 6,ooo years old, huge, and has a pub inside the trunk. Incongruous and not to be missed when you visit South Africa.
We drive on, through Modjadje, a town with thousands of small dwellings spread over hundreds of acres. On to the Modjadje Nature Reserve, created mainly to preserve a forest of Cycads, Modjadje Palms some of which are 1000 years old. Their fruits look like large pineapples and are much loved by the hundreds of Vervet Monkeys populating the area. (These monkeys have the largest vocabulary of the monkey world, 36 different sounds used to communicate)
On the return drive we see Sable (3 sightings, close up) and Buffalo in the distance.
My thanks to Annelize for suggesting these places to visit. It has been a great day.
A long day, 11 hours and 420 kilometers. My last day. I fly out tomorrow, back in the UK Wednesday afternoon. Thanks for reading my ramblings, till the next trip, All the Best, John.
Sunday, December 06, 2009
South Africa evening Sat 5 Dec '09
South Africa evening Sat 5 Dec '09
We start into the Park at 5pm, a Dutch couple and myself plus the driver-guide, it is still light. Huge vultures perched at the top of a dead tree, the tallest bull Giraffe you could wish to see (right next to the road), Matabele Hissing Ants marching across the road, Emerald Spotted Doves singing their oh-so-sad song, Guinea Fowl, Baboons, Zebras and Impala. All this before we stop for a snack in an ancient village, now preserved to show us how people lived here.
Now we have torches as it gets dark. We are looking for eyes staring back at us out of the blackness. We see a single pair of eyes. It is a hare, long ears and frozen in the glare of the torch. We are not allowed to catch it for dinner. Then a lone Stonebuck, smaller than Impala, very dainty. Next a Spottedwhatsit Bird, can't remember the middle bit, but very pretty. Then a Nightjar. All spotted by seeing their eyes in the torchlight.
Now we see an eye in the water, a pool formed by a passing stream. It is a crocodile we are assured by the guide. Next an awesome sight in the night, a herd of about 50 Impala, their bright eyes toward us as they amble through the nearby bush. Then, the star of the night for me, a Genet watching us from the bottom of a tree. This animal looks like a domestic cat, spotted with a white tip to its tail. In fact it is of the mongoose family and would be entirely unsuitable in the living room. Then another Giraffe and finally more Zebras. A great experience to see all these animals at night.
All the best, John
We start into the Park at 5pm, a Dutch couple and myself plus the driver-guide, it is still light. Huge vultures perched at the top of a dead tree, the tallest bull Giraffe you could wish to see (right next to the road), Matabele Hissing Ants marching across the road, Emerald Spotted Doves singing their oh-so-sad song, Guinea Fowl, Baboons, Zebras and Impala. All this before we stop for a snack in an ancient village, now preserved to show us how people lived here.
Now we have torches as it gets dark. We are looking for eyes staring back at us out of the blackness. We see a single pair of eyes. It is a hare, long ears and frozen in the glare of the torch. We are not allowed to catch it for dinner. Then a lone Stonebuck, smaller than Impala, very dainty. Next a Spottedwhatsit Bird, can't remember the middle bit, but very pretty. Then a Nightjar. All spotted by seeing their eyes in the torchlight.
Now we see an eye in the water, a pool formed by a passing stream. It is a crocodile we are assured by the guide. Next an awesome sight in the night, a herd of about 50 Impala, their bright eyes toward us as they amble through the nearby bush. Then, the star of the night for me, a Genet watching us from the bottom of a tree. This animal looks like a domestic cat, spotted with a white tip to its tail. In fact it is of the mongoose family and would be entirely unsuitable in the living room. Then another Giraffe and finally more Zebras. A great experience to see all these animals at night.
All the best, John
Saturday, December 05, 2009
South Africa am Sat 5 Dec '09
South africa am Sat 5 Dec '09
Up at 4am this morning for 4.45am start. Bushwalking!
Two South African tourists, me, and two guides drive into the middle of nowhere in the Kruger National Park. We get out and start walking, single file, no talking, both guides carry rifles.
The scrub is sparse and green due to the recent rains. Mostly Mopani bushes. Scattered about, usually in single plants, are some beautiful flowers. White, pink, yellow. purple, blue, mauve - striking colours sprouting out of the sandy soil. Community Spiders have nests in the bushes. One female with lots of males running around after her. They should check out the Shangaan system.
A Buffalo runs off through the bush, Impala watch us impassively, Weaver Birds fly up out of the shrub.
Then we spot a Chameleon, maybe 9 inches/200mm long. It is bright green, exactly the same colour as the surrounding leaves, and sitting on a branch. We pick it up and it puffs up in protest. I hope to email the photo later.
Then a huge male elephant, very close, aware of us. He is walking through the bush, We walk in parallel with him and get some great photos. Awe-inspiring.
More walking, apparently aimlessly, through the bush. Suddenly a guide spots a pair of giraffes peering at us over the trees and bushes. We stop to watch them and after a short face-off, they walk away. Good. now we can sit down and have our breakfast.
On the way back we encounter a bunch of zebras, about 8 including a foal with her mother. They are out in the clear close to a mound of rock. Delightful.
Lastly, a group of 6 giraffes, feeding nonchalantly and not at all bothered by us humans staring at them. They are fascinating to watch, ungainly but graceful at the same time.
10am back to Sunbird Lodge (my b&b) where a great morning continues with a second breakfast kept back for me by Samantha.
All the Best, John
Up at 4am this morning for 4.45am start. Bushwalking!
Two South African tourists, me, and two guides drive into the middle of nowhere in the Kruger National Park. We get out and start walking, single file, no talking, both guides carry rifles.
The scrub is sparse and green due to the recent rains. Mostly Mopani bushes. Scattered about, usually in single plants, are some beautiful flowers. White, pink, yellow. purple, blue, mauve - striking colours sprouting out of the sandy soil. Community Spiders have nests in the bushes. One female with lots of males running around after her. They should check out the Shangaan system.
A Buffalo runs off through the bush, Impala watch us impassively, Weaver Birds fly up out of the shrub.
Then we spot a Chameleon, maybe 9 inches/200mm long. It is bright green, exactly the same colour as the surrounding leaves, and sitting on a branch. We pick it up and it puffs up in protest. I hope to email the photo later.
Then a huge male elephant, very close, aware of us. He is walking through the bush, We walk in parallel with him and get some great photos. Awe-inspiring.
More walking, apparently aimlessly, through the bush. Suddenly a guide spots a pair of giraffes peering at us over the trees and bushes. We stop to watch them and after a short face-off, they walk away. Good. now we can sit down and have our breakfast.
On the way back we encounter a bunch of zebras, about 8 including a foal with her mother. They are out in the clear close to a mound of rock. Delightful.
Lastly, a group of 6 giraffes, feeding nonchalantly and not at all bothered by us humans staring at them. They are fascinating to watch, ungainly but graceful at the same time.
10am back to Sunbird Lodge (my b&b) where a great morning continues with a second breakfast kept back for me by Samantha.
All the Best, John
Friday, December 04, 2009
South Africa Fri 4 Dec '09
South Africa Fri 4 Dec '09
Today Ben meets me at 8am for 'cultural tour'. He drives (just me) 10k to Lulekani, a 36,000 strong township, built and mainly occupied by Shangaan people. The Shangaan are part of the Nguni people, others being the Zulu, Matabele and Swazi tribes.
Ben describes and drives me around the four distinct areas of the town:- the well-off, the middle and the poor areas, and the area occupied by refugees from the Mozambique wars of the 1980s. The first three have mostly block built 'Mandela' houses and kitchens, with electricity and a running water tap in the grounds of each family group. The 'well off ' have some very smart properties indeed, whereas the poor have less space and grow crops in their garden. The Mozambicans do not qualify for 'Mandela' houses, struggle to get jobs because there are not enough even for the SA nationals and are poorer than the poor.
We stop lots of times, loads of kids, all happy and loving the photos I take and show them.
Ben takes me to meet Mr Modaka, 87 and the head of his family: 7 children and 19 grandchildren. Here, the man is in charge and the woman does as she is told, as it should be. Men decide who they want to marry and pay the girls father in cows or money. The girl then leaves to join her husbands family home where her new relatives monitor her to make sure she can cook and clean to their satisfaction. After obtaining their approval, the girl and her husband can set up home in their own house. Motherinlaw has no influence but the girls brothers can be a force to recon with if the husband treats his wife badly. Hence it is wise to check on how many brothers a girl has, and how big they are, before taking her as his wife. A man can take more than one wife of course, depending on how many he can afford and how fit he is. All good stuff.
We talk for a long time with Mr Modaka and look around his house and kitchens. The old kitchen has an open fire and is used as an alternative to the modern one which uses expensive electricity. An insight into how real people live in this town.
Next Ben takes me to a training centre where Europeans mostly German students come to help and learn social skills. Here, in a courtyard, 4 warriors bang drums, act, dance and sing just for me. Great stuff. I join in with the drumming and dancing but mercifully am not expected to sing. I thoroughly enjoy this and hope to see these guys again when they visit the UK next year.
All the Best, John
Today Ben meets me at 8am for 'cultural tour'. He drives (just me) 10k to Lulekani, a 36,000 strong township, built and mainly occupied by Shangaan people. The Shangaan are part of the Nguni people, others being the Zulu, Matabele and Swazi tribes.
Ben describes and drives me around the four distinct areas of the town:- the well-off, the middle and the poor areas, and the area occupied by refugees from the Mozambique wars of the 1980s. The first three have mostly block built 'Mandela' houses and kitchens, with electricity and a running water tap in the grounds of each family group. The 'well off ' have some very smart properties indeed, whereas the poor have less space and grow crops in their garden. The Mozambicans do not qualify for 'Mandela' houses, struggle to get jobs because there are not enough even for the SA nationals and are poorer than the poor.
We stop lots of times, loads of kids, all happy and loving the photos I take and show them.
Ben takes me to meet Mr Modaka, 87 and the head of his family: 7 children and 19 grandchildren. Here, the man is in charge and the woman does as she is told, as it should be. Men decide who they want to marry and pay the girls father in cows or money. The girl then leaves to join her husbands family home where her new relatives monitor her to make sure she can cook and clean to their satisfaction. After obtaining their approval, the girl and her husband can set up home in their own house. Motherinlaw has no influence but the girls brothers can be a force to recon with if the husband treats his wife badly. Hence it is wise to check on how many brothers a girl has, and how big they are, before taking her as his wife. A man can take more than one wife of course, depending on how many he can afford and how fit he is. All good stuff.
We talk for a long time with Mr Modaka and look around his house and kitchens. The old kitchen has an open fire and is used as an alternative to the modern one which uses expensive electricity. An insight into how real people live in this town.
Next Ben takes me to a training centre where Europeans mostly German students come to help and learn social skills. Here, in a courtyard, 4 warriors bang drums, act, dance and sing just for me. Great stuff. I join in with the drumming and dancing but mercifully am not expected to sing. I thoroughly enjoy this and hope to see these guys again when they visit the UK next year.
All the Best, John
Thursday, December 03, 2009
South Africa Tues 1 - Thurs 3 Dec '09
South Africa Tues 1 - Thurs 3 Dec 09
Tuesday I fly from Durban to Phalaborwa via Jo'burg.
Phalaborwa is a small town in the NE of SA, very near an entrance to the middle of Kruger National Park. I am staying at Sunbird Lodge, owned and run by cousins of Jill. It has excellent rooms in beautiful gardens. Breakfast and evening meals are superb.
Wednesday, nothing organised, so walk into town, around the (quite large) shopping area then back for a swim in the Sunbird pool. No lines and can't see where bottom meets sides so swim into end wall and stubb my finger.
Thursday I am met outside Sunbird at 5.45am by a canvas roofed cattle truck driven by Ben for safari in Kruger park. Me plus 3 English girls.
The landscape is scrub and small trees, Ben tells us lots of interesting things, the girls are good company.
We see lots of impala, in small family groups, dainty animals but not particularly nervous or wary of us. Pretty creatures in their natural leafy surroundings.
A very strange looking red beetle marches along the road near where we are stopped. It obviously owns this part of the park.
A Black Crested Eagle is majestic, perched high in one of the taller but dead trees. Beautiful.
A Hornbill hops around the branches of a tree, hiding from us. It is surprisingly graceful when it fly's away.
Three Rangers, pushing their bicycles in the opposite direction, stop to talk to us. They are big guys, young, healthy and black, and have rifles strapped to their crossbars. The girls are thrilled.
Next we see some zebras, some distance away in the scrub. I first thought they were giraffes, and the girls did agree that they were quite tall for zebras.
And almost at the same time, we catch a glimpse of two elephants partly hidden by trees. After watching them for a while, we drive on and find a single male elephant standing very near the road in a small muddy pool. An imperious animal in its natural environment. He is sucking up muddy water and squirting himself all over. He has a big willy and the girls are thrilled again. I will try to email, to you all, one of my photos of this huge animal. We have several more sightings of elephants in 2s and 3s. We are very lucky to see so many.
Now, after a very late snack breakfast in a park lodge overlooking a wide river and beautiful landscape, we head back to Phalaborwa. A truck driver passing in the opposite direction stops to speak with Ben. He has seen a pair of lions near the road and we are headed towards them. Ben drives on and we gaze out at the bush expectantly. A car stops and they tell Ben that they have also seen the two lions. The girls are even more excited than when they saw the three Rangers and the elephants willy. We drive on further, then Ben slows to a crawl. Suddenly, one of the girls spots the lions. Ben stops in a perfect position for us to admire these beasts. They are magnificent animals. The female is partly hidden, but we have a fine view of the male, fully grown and resplendent in his big bushy mane. We stay for a long time, with Ben moving our truck slightly when the lions move for more shade under a tree. Fantastic, amazing, wonderful to see these animals in their natural habitat.
And then we're driving through the gates and out of the park. Another great day.
All the Best,
John
Tuesday I fly from Durban to Phalaborwa via Jo'burg.
Phalaborwa is a small town in the NE of SA, very near an entrance to the middle of Kruger National Park. I am staying at Sunbird Lodge, owned and run by cousins of Jill. It has excellent rooms in beautiful gardens. Breakfast and evening meals are superb.
Wednesday, nothing organised, so walk into town, around the (quite large) shopping area then back for a swim in the Sunbird pool. No lines and can't see where bottom meets sides so swim into end wall and stubb my finger.
Thursday I am met outside Sunbird at 5.45am by a canvas roofed cattle truck driven by Ben for safari in Kruger park. Me plus 3 English girls.
The landscape is scrub and small trees, Ben tells us lots of interesting things, the girls are good company.
We see lots of impala, in small family groups, dainty animals but not particularly nervous or wary of us. Pretty creatures in their natural leafy surroundings.
A very strange looking red beetle marches along the road near where we are stopped. It obviously owns this part of the park.
A Black Crested Eagle is majestic, perched high in one of the taller but dead trees. Beautiful.
A Hornbill hops around the branches of a tree, hiding from us. It is surprisingly graceful when it fly's away.
Three Rangers, pushing their bicycles in the opposite direction, stop to talk to us. They are big guys, young, healthy and black, and have rifles strapped to their crossbars. The girls are thrilled.
Next we see some zebras, some distance away in the scrub. I first thought they were giraffes, and the girls did agree that they were quite tall for zebras.
And almost at the same time, we catch a glimpse of two elephants partly hidden by trees. After watching them for a while, we drive on and find a single male elephant standing very near the road in a small muddy pool. An imperious animal in its natural environment. He is sucking up muddy water and squirting himself all over. He has a big willy and the girls are thrilled again. I will try to email, to you all, one of my photos of this huge animal. We have several more sightings of elephants in 2s and 3s. We are very lucky to see so many.
Now, after a very late snack breakfast in a park lodge overlooking a wide river and beautiful landscape, we head back to Phalaborwa. A truck driver passing in the opposite direction stops to speak with Ben. He has seen a pair of lions near the road and we are headed towards them. Ben drives on and we gaze out at the bush expectantly. A car stops and they tell Ben that they have also seen the two lions. The girls are even more excited than when they saw the three Rangers and the elephants willy. We drive on further, then Ben slows to a crawl. Suddenly, one of the girls spots the lions. Ben stops in a perfect position for us to admire these beasts. They are magnificent animals. The female is partly hidden, but we have a fine view of the male, fully grown and resplendent in his big bushy mane. We stay for a long time, with Ben moving our truck slightly when the lions move for more shade under a tree. Fantastic, amazing, wonderful to see these animals in their natural habitat.
And then we're driving through the gates and out of the park. Another great day.
All the Best,
John
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