Thursday, February 28, 2008

Vietnam and Thailand '08 day 11

Vietnam and Thailand '08 day 11
Chiang Mai is the ancient city of the North. Located in mountainous terrain it was founded in 1296 by King Mengrai the Great (you remember him?). It was the capital of Lanna Thai (Kingdom of a million rice fields), the first independent kingdom in the Golden Triangle. Until recently, it could only be reached from Bangkok by an arduous river journey and elephant back taking several weeks. The isolation of Chiang Mai allowed it to develop independently, somewhat influenced by Burma, and accounts for much of its present charm. The people of Chiang Mai have their own customs, architectural traditions, alphabet, dance, cuisine, handicrafts and a distinct lilting dialect.
Today is my first full day here. Took an excursion to the premier and famous Wat Phrathat Doi Suthep Rajvoravihara which is located very high up the nearby mountain. Very steep windy road up and up and up seemingly forever. Especially interesting drive due to the traditional pastime over here of taking the shortest route at every opportunity resulting in downcoming traffic cutting corners and frequently appearing coming towards us on our side of the road. Invigorating stuff.
306 steps up to the temple from the car park. However my fellow travellers opted for the vernickerly railway so I went with the majority and we rode up in a very cramped carriage. The view from the top of the city far below was breathtaking. The temple complex was an attractive collection of about 30 buildings of the Llanna style. According to legend, holy relics discovered during the reign of King Kuena (1355 - 1385) were placed in a howdah on the back of a white elephant, which carried them to Wat Phrathat then dropped dead due to exhaustion. The white elephant is especially revered in this part of Thailand.
Stup Pagoda (Golden Chedi) in the centre of the complex is the famous golden Chedi of Wat Phrathat Doi Suthep, 79 feet high and 39 feet across its base, it is covered with engraved gold plate and flanked by 4 ornamental umbrellas. It is astoundingly beautiful.
''Doi Suthep, a secret peak that speaks of old Thai customs, where natures beauty doth unfold over the golden chedi''
We also visited a Hmong mountain village. The Hmong originated from China and live to a much more basic standard than the indigenous Thais. The people of this village had taken full advantage of the opportunities presented by tourist visitors. Dozens of little shops in tight alleyways, charming in their own right, adults and children in traditional costume and even an old lady reputed to be 102 posing for photographs for a small payment, all in good humour and great fun.
Then we emerged into an incredibly beautiful flower garden, perhaps an acre in size, laid out on a gently sloping hillside at the edge of the village with flowering plants of every conceivable colour, surrounded by the intense green of the trees and undergrowth of the jungle for miles around. Absolutely delightful, another memory that will endure of this trip.
The poor people of this village are undoubtedly the richest people on earth to be living here. A truly wonderful place.
John

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