Rajasthan 14 January 2010
Well this is the penultimate day of the tour, with not much to report. This is a 'free' day so I wander through the streets and bazaar with various other members of the group. Selling is particularly aggressive here, so we learn never to accept a hand offered for shaking because they don't let go. Many want to bestow religious blessings on you at potentially extortionate cost. One trick they play here is to tell you a number when you ask how much, then after you have said yes they say it's dollars not ruperts. Not nice.
Despite the selling practices, this is a charming town and well worth a visit. I buy Slumdog Millionaire dvd from a shopkeeper who is friendly and helpful but almost blind.
We are meeting early evening to catch the overnight train to Delhi. More on this tomorrow.
All the Best, John
Thursday, January 28, 2010
Wednesday, January 27, 2010
Rajasthan 13 january 2010
Rajasthan 13 January 2010
The 6am train leaves at 6.15! We are in comfortable class, so I sleep for much of the 5 and half hours in the train to Aimer. Here we climb into a small bus, our bags are on the roof, just. Soon we are in a traffic jam. Streets are closed because the Prime Minister of Bangladesh is in town. Eventually, and via Snake Pass, we arrive in our hotel in Pushkar. This is a holy town containing India's only Brahma Temple, a holy lake, pilgrims from all over India and hippies from Hastings.
Our 'orientation' walk takes us through.............hundreds of small shops! There is a difference though, many of the 'locals' are westerners, presumably settling in Pushkar to find enlightenment, helped by the puffing of these long pipes so popular in India. I don't think they contain shag tobacco.
Next, back at the hotel, we are joined by 11 camels. One for each of us. Mounting a camel (to ride) is not easy. As my regular readers will know, I am an experienced rider of exotic animals, having already ridden a camel in Dubai, an ostrich in Africa and a Dartmoor pony in Devon. However, on this camel, there is only a small 'pommel' to hold onto, positioned at the front of the saddle immediately in front of one's groin. It is disappointing that, after centuries of using these animals to transport people and goods, no-one has bred or trained camels that can rise from the kneeling position on all 4 legs simultaneously. I think it's the back legs that go up first, they tell you to lean back and you jolt forward into the pommel. Ouch. Then the other two legs go up and you rise to a ridiculous height above ground level. The camel starts walking and I hold on tightly to the tiny pommel, trying to stay on board and protect my unborn children. Each camel is led by a minder, and the safari takes us in single file on an hour's walk through the town and out into the desert where we stop for tea. Anmar our guide follows the camel train in a camel drawn cart. This is obviously for collecting group members that have fallen off their camels. I picture the cart at the end of the safari, piled up with injured tourists, broken arms and legs hanging out in all directions and Anmar still drinking the last of his tea. Fortunately, we all make it to the half-way tea stop with no casualties. Nobody has fallen off, but now we have to dismount. Ouch. The tea and biscuits are good, but we are serenaded by the musicians from hell. I am chatting with two of the girls and before we realise it, we are surrounded by three of them. I don't know how she does it, but Sarah-Jane escapes, ruthlessly abandoning me and Kylie to the strains of the most ear piercing tuneless scratching and scraping noises from stringed instruments constructed in a scrap yard by the devil himself. Kylie recovers her senses more quickly than me and pays them to go away.
For the ride back, we have to re-mount. Another ouch. This time, I make myself relax in the saddle and not hold on to the pommel so tightly. This makes the ride less uncomfortable and more relaxed. I take some good photos, risking total letting go of the pommel and twisting a bit to take photos. A couple of times, the minder makes my camel run, and after the initial shock, I realise that this is much more comfortable than walking. It is also an exhilarating ride.
Actually, the whole experience is amazing. The camels are serene, the desert landscape is stark and beautiful, and the sunset is incredible. A highlight of this trip and all my travels.
All the Best, John
The 6am train leaves at 6.15! We are in comfortable class, so I sleep for much of the 5 and half hours in the train to Aimer. Here we climb into a small bus, our bags are on the roof, just. Soon we are in a traffic jam. Streets are closed because the Prime Minister of Bangladesh is in town. Eventually, and via Snake Pass, we arrive in our hotel in Pushkar. This is a holy town containing India's only Brahma Temple, a holy lake, pilgrims from all over India and hippies from Hastings.
Our 'orientation' walk takes us through.............hundreds of small shops! There is a difference though, many of the 'locals' are westerners, presumably settling in Pushkar to find enlightenment, helped by the puffing of these long pipes so popular in India. I don't think they contain shag tobacco.
Next, back at the hotel, we are joined by 11 camels. One for each of us. Mounting a camel (to ride) is not easy. As my regular readers will know, I am an experienced rider of exotic animals, having already ridden a camel in Dubai, an ostrich in Africa and a Dartmoor pony in Devon. However, on this camel, there is only a small 'pommel' to hold onto, positioned at the front of the saddle immediately in front of one's groin. It is disappointing that, after centuries of using these animals to transport people and goods, no-one has bred or trained camels that can rise from the kneeling position on all 4 legs simultaneously. I think it's the back legs that go up first, they tell you to lean back and you jolt forward into the pommel. Ouch. Then the other two legs go up and you rise to a ridiculous height above ground level. The camel starts walking and I hold on tightly to the tiny pommel, trying to stay on board and protect my unborn children. Each camel is led by a minder, and the safari takes us in single file on an hour's walk through the town and out into the desert where we stop for tea. Anmar our guide follows the camel train in a camel drawn cart. This is obviously for collecting group members that have fallen off their camels. I picture the cart at the end of the safari, piled up with injured tourists, broken arms and legs hanging out in all directions and Anmar still drinking the last of his tea. Fortunately, we all make it to the half-way tea stop with no casualties. Nobody has fallen off, but now we have to dismount. Ouch. The tea and biscuits are good, but we are serenaded by the musicians from hell. I am chatting with two of the girls and before we realise it, we are surrounded by three of them. I don't know how she does it, but Sarah-Jane escapes, ruthlessly abandoning me and Kylie to the strains of the most ear piercing tuneless scratching and scraping noises from stringed instruments constructed in a scrap yard by the devil himself. Kylie recovers her senses more quickly than me and pays them to go away.
For the ride back, we have to re-mount. Another ouch. This time, I make myself relax in the saddle and not hold on to the pommel so tightly. This makes the ride less uncomfortable and more relaxed. I take some good photos, risking total letting go of the pommel and twisting a bit to take photos. A couple of times, the minder makes my camel run, and after the initial shock, I realise that this is much more comfortable than walking. It is also an exhilarating ride.
Actually, the whole experience is amazing. The camels are serene, the desert landscape is stark and beautiful, and the sunset is incredible. A highlight of this trip and all my travels.
All the Best, John
Monday, January 25, 2010
Rajasthan 12 January 2010
Rajasthan 12 January 2010
Quiet day today, no organised activity, just wandering around Upaipur. Firstly, I am guided by some of the girls in the group to a very small but excellent cake shop. Had a danish pastry the size of a small dinner plate, plus carrot cake and a pot of coffee. Great start to the day.
The streets in this town are narrow and twisty, especially near the lake. Here again there are hundreds of tiny shops, for locals and tourists. I spend 3 hours walking around and buy three bananas.
Most of the group meet for an evening meal, I have a mildly spicy spinach and chicken dish with egg fried rice - delicious. We learn from Anmar our guide that we start at 5.30am tomorrow, so it's an early night tonight. Big day tomorrow! Goodnight all, John
Quiet day today, no organised activity, just wandering around Upaipur. Firstly, I am guided by some of the girls in the group to a very small but excellent cake shop. Had a danish pastry the size of a small dinner plate, plus carrot cake and a pot of coffee. Great start to the day.
The streets in this town are narrow and twisty, especially near the lake. Here again there are hundreds of tiny shops, for locals and tourists. I spend 3 hours walking around and buy three bananas.
Most of the group meet for an evening meal, I have a mildly spicy spinach and chicken dish with egg fried rice - delicious. We learn from Anmar our guide that we start at 5.30am tomorrow, so it's an early night tonight. Big day tomorrow! Goodnight all, John
Friday, January 22, 2010
Rajasthan 11 january 2010
Rajasthan 11 january 2010
The drive to Udaipur takes us on to motorway for the first time. Interestingly, cyclists and trucks occasionally use the overtaking lane as if it is the left hand lane of a single carriageway and hence travel the wrong way in the fast lane. Pedestrians walking 3 abreast either way in all lanes add to the mayhem. And nobody slows down for anyone or anything (except cows of course).
Our hotel in Udaipur is on the edge of the lake. We have an 'orientation walk' through the town then a tour around the City Palace. Adjoining the lake, the Palace is built up the side of a cliff and is huge, the second largest in India.
Some of us take a boat trip around the lake, I get some photos of the Lake Palace which is made of white marble and rises up out of the water. The sunset behind the hill on the other side of the lake is striking.
The James Bond film 'Octopussy' was filmed here, so we all gather to watch it in one of the restaurants that continuously play it for tourists. The sound doesn't work on the tele so we all watch fascinated as the waiter inserts a screwdriver into the live television set and connects wires from independant speakers into it. Some of the action and dialogue in the film is very dated and there is much hilarity.
All the Best, John
The drive to Udaipur takes us on to motorway for the first time. Interestingly, cyclists and trucks occasionally use the overtaking lane as if it is the left hand lane of a single carriageway and hence travel the wrong way in the fast lane. Pedestrians walking 3 abreast either way in all lanes add to the mayhem. And nobody slows down for anyone or anything (except cows of course).
Our hotel in Udaipur is on the edge of the lake. We have an 'orientation walk' through the town then a tour around the City Palace. Adjoining the lake, the Palace is built up the side of a cliff and is huge, the second largest in India.
Some of us take a boat trip around the lake, I get some photos of the Lake Palace which is made of white marble and rises up out of the water. The sunset behind the hill on the other side of the lake is striking.
The James Bond film 'Octopussy' was filmed here, so we all gather to watch it in one of the restaurants that continuously play it for tourists. The sound doesn't work on the tele so we all watch fascinated as the waiter inserts a screwdriver into the live television set and connects wires from independant speakers into it. Some of the action and dialogue in the film is very dated and there is much hilarity.
All the Best, John
Thursday, January 21, 2010
Rajasthan 10 January 2010
Rajasthan 10 January 2010
We are driven, in jeeps again, on a 'village safari', and stop by some fields to be shown various crops. There is barley, onions, peanuts, turmeric, garlic and opium. The last is grown strictly under government license and, of course, none of it finds its way into the black market.
Next we stop by a 'Moonshine Tree', the product of which causes much merriment in the local population, but we have not had a taste yet.
The last stop in the middle of a village includes a visit to one of the homes. It is a single storey block built structure with maybe 2 rooms and a large yard filled with goats and children. Basic and enchanting.
We arrive at Castle Bijaipur Hotel for a welcome snack of sandwiches and chips, followed by swimming in the (rather cool) hotel pool, bike rides and table tennis for some of the group. I also have an early evening lone walk around Bijaipur village, looking in vain for an Internet cafe. I don't think they see many tourists outside of the hotel, but everyone is polite and friendly.
All the Best,
John
We are driven, in jeeps again, on a 'village safari', and stop by some fields to be shown various crops. There is barley, onions, peanuts, turmeric, garlic and opium. The last is grown strictly under government license and, of course, none of it finds its way into the black market.
Next we stop by a 'Moonshine Tree', the product of which causes much merriment in the local population, but we have not had a taste yet.
The last stop in the middle of a village includes a visit to one of the homes. It is a single storey block built structure with maybe 2 rooms and a large yard filled with goats and children. Basic and enchanting.
We arrive at Castle Bijaipur Hotel for a welcome snack of sandwiches and chips, followed by swimming in the (rather cool) hotel pool, bike rides and table tennis for some of the group. I also have an early evening lone walk around Bijaipur village, looking in vain for an Internet cafe. I don't think they see many tourists outside of the hotel, but everyone is polite and friendly.
All the Best,
John
Friday, January 15, 2010
Rajasthan 9 January 2010
Rajasthan 9 January 2010
We arrive at the station at 7am for 7.15 train that arrives at 11.40 due to fog. No comfy seats this time, we are in 'general' class, but crowdedness and discomfort are more than compensated by the group's interaction with local people who stare at us strange western folk. Vendors are selling spicy chic peas and peanuts. The peanut shells and other debris cover the floor, so there is a crackling sound as people walk by.
The scenery outside is varied, rocky desert in places, but also cultivated fields that must have required a huge amount of work to create and maintain in this landscape. There is the bright green of winter barley in its early stages, the yellow of oilseed rape/canola and the brown earth awaiting spring crops. All very ordered and tidy.
After 3 hours on the train, we alight at the tiny Bassi Station where two jeeps are waiting for us. One and half hours in these takes us along the narrowest and roughest of tracks and roads, through villages and cultivated countryside. Crops include opium which has white flowers as some of you may know.
Finally, we are negotiating a solid rock hillside, driving downwards at 45 degrees to the slope; more on this later. At the bottom is a remote lake which would have been beautiful if it had any water in it. Actually there was a little water in the middle, but it was surrounded by acres of mud and dried out edges. The last two monsoons have failed to bring the rain they need, but it is still a glorious setting. The mudflats are being searched for lotus flower roots which are much prized as cooking ingredients.
We are camping in tents already set up by the lakeside and they are luxurious, with a 5m sq. sleeping section and, to the rear, a 5x2m 'bathroom' with running h&c water to western toilet, washbasin and shower!
Five of us walk up to a ruined fort perched on the top of a hillock overlooking the lake. We see that the whole valley has the shape of a huge crater, as if we are in an ancient volcanic crater with rocky sides, the lake at the bottom and a mound in the middle with the fort on top. This is a weird and wonderful place.
Dinner in the stone built, very old tile clad Dining Hall is superb. It is a help-yourself buffet with 6 containers of various Indian dishes kept hot over gas jets. Vegetable rice, cauliflower, egg plant/aubergine, mixed veg., a bean sauce and perfectly cooked joints of chicken. This is heaven. I passed on another spicy sauce though.
Now I am in bed writing this blog with the sound of night noises from the lake and surrounding green banks and rocky slopes; it is a cacophony of birds, insects, animals and snoring Australians in nearby tents. This is a great place to be.
All the best, John
We arrive at the station at 7am for 7.15 train that arrives at 11.40 due to fog. No comfy seats this time, we are in 'general' class, but crowdedness and discomfort are more than compensated by the group's interaction with local people who stare at us strange western folk. Vendors are selling spicy chic peas and peanuts. The peanut shells and other debris cover the floor, so there is a crackling sound as people walk by.
The scenery outside is varied, rocky desert in places, but also cultivated fields that must have required a huge amount of work to create and maintain in this landscape. There is the bright green of winter barley in its early stages, the yellow of oilseed rape/canola and the brown earth awaiting spring crops. All very ordered and tidy.
After 3 hours on the train, we alight at the tiny Bassi Station where two jeeps are waiting for us. One and half hours in these takes us along the narrowest and roughest of tracks and roads, through villages and cultivated countryside. Crops include opium which has white flowers as some of you may know.
Finally, we are negotiating a solid rock hillside, driving downwards at 45 degrees to the slope; more on this later. At the bottom is a remote lake which would have been beautiful if it had any water in it. Actually there was a little water in the middle, but it was surrounded by acres of mud and dried out edges. The last two monsoons have failed to bring the rain they need, but it is still a glorious setting. The mudflats are being searched for lotus flower roots which are much prized as cooking ingredients.
We are camping in tents already set up by the lakeside and they are luxurious, with a 5m sq. sleeping section and, to the rear, a 5x2m 'bathroom' with running h&c water to western toilet, washbasin and shower!
Five of us walk up to a ruined fort perched on the top of a hillock overlooking the lake. We see that the whole valley has the shape of a huge crater, as if we are in an ancient volcanic crater with rocky sides, the lake at the bottom and a mound in the middle with the fort on top. This is a weird and wonderful place.
Dinner in the stone built, very old tile clad Dining Hall is superb. It is a help-yourself buffet with 6 containers of various Indian dishes kept hot over gas jets. Vegetable rice, cauliflower, egg plant/aubergine, mixed veg., a bean sauce and perfectly cooked joints of chicken. This is heaven. I passed on another spicy sauce though.
Now I am in bed writing this blog with the sound of night noises from the lake and surrounding green banks and rocky slopes; it is a cacophony of birds, insects, animals and snoring Australians in nearby tents. This is a great place to be.
All the best, John
Thursday, January 14, 2010
Rajasthan 8 January 2010
Rajasthan 8 January 2010
First thing in the morning we are driven up to Ranthambore Fort, an impressive structure high up above the town. The steps rise steeply through stone walls and archways. The huge timber doors have spikes to discourage ramming by the elephants of attacking armies. This place has been designed to be impenetrable and has never been taken forcibly. The living quarters at the top are largely in ruins, but the bits that remain are fascinating.
Now we are driving to Bundi, seeing more of rural Rajasthan. Cattle, wild (looking) pigs, chickens, goats and local people in harmony. All of the women and some of the men are in traditional dress, colourful saris etc., I love these journeys through the countryside.
Bundi is known as the 'City of Wells', it nestles in a natural valley at the foot of a large rocky hill dominated by the town's Fort and Palace. Sadly, the Maharajah died yesterday and is being cremated today, so we cannot visit the Palace. However, our orientation walk is interesting, and we have an excellent meal in our hotel, The Ishwari Niwas (Gods House).
That's it for today, All the Best, john
First thing in the morning we are driven up to Ranthambore Fort, an impressive structure high up above the town. The steps rise steeply through stone walls and archways. The huge timber doors have spikes to discourage ramming by the elephants of attacking armies. This place has been designed to be impenetrable and has never been taken forcibly. The living quarters at the top are largely in ruins, but the bits that remain are fascinating.
Now we are driving to Bundi, seeing more of rural Rajasthan. Cattle, wild (looking) pigs, chickens, goats and local people in harmony. All of the women and some of the men are in traditional dress, colourful saris etc., I love these journeys through the countryside.
Bundi is known as the 'City of Wells', it nestles in a natural valley at the foot of a large rocky hill dominated by the town's Fort and Palace. Sadly, the Maharajah died yesterday and is being cremated today, so we cannot visit the Palace. However, our orientation walk is interesting, and we have an excellent meal in our hotel, The Ishwari Niwas (Gods House).
That's it for today, All the Best, john
Tuesday, January 12, 2010
Rajasthan 7 January 2010
Rajasthan 7 January 2010
Today we have a four and half hour drive through rural Rajasthan. We pass through a hundred small communities, sometimes only a few buildings around a courtyard, sometimes a village with some shops and stalls. We are regularly negotiating our way around cattle which roam freely and with no road sense. Much of the local transport of produce is by camel carts. The fields are well organised and very clean. This time of year we are seeing the yellow of Oilseed rape/Canola, or is it mustard? There is also winter sown barley and cultivated fields awaiting spring crops.
We arrive at Hotel Raj Palace in Ranthambore. The gardens are beautiful, and in glorious sunshine we enjoy a delightful lunch including banana lassi.
Then we are collected in an open-top dwuc (how do you spell this Anne?) type vehicle for The Tiger Safari. The track rises and falls through the thinly wooded reserve. We are in a valley with steeply rising hillsides and mountains in the distance. There are lots of deer, big brown ones called Sambar and dainty spotty ones called Chital. A beautiful blue-backed kingfisher is sitting on a wire over a dried up stream. Black and white monkeys with incredibly long tails throw bits of tree at us from branches above. When we stop for a break, more of these monkeys come right up to us, presumably hoping to be fed. They have no fear of humans, even when we are walking around. We don't see any tigers, but this is a beautiful place to visit.
In the evening there is folk dancing and singing back at the hotel, followed by an excellent meal in the hotel restaurant. I am quite pleased with myself so far, chosing indian dishes for most meals, all of which are spicy to some degree despite what the waiter says. (More than half of the group have had tummy trouble at some stage of their time in India, but so far I am 100% ok.)
A great day. All the Best, John
Monday, January 11, 2010
Rajasthan 6 january 2010
Rajasthan 6 January 2010
'Free' day in Jaipur so 3 of us visit the Albert Hall Museum so named following a visit to Jaipur by our own Prince Albert. Most of the other visitors are local families, and we all gaze in awe at stone sculptures from 4th century onwards, pottery, arms and armour, carpets, clay figures, jewelry, musical instruments and garments. There are also hundreds of miniature paintings depicting stories of the Gods. One is of 'Lovers' inconsolable separation being eased by application of sandalwood paste, sprinkling of water and waving of fan'. (the paste looks like peanut butter). Another is 'Water sports as a facet of amorous love'(this appears to be a man and a woman wrestling under-water).
Also in the museum is a 1st century mummy. Some of the cloth has fallen off her shroud and you can see her toes.
Next we have a guided tour around the 300 year old Jantar Mantar Observatory. Various structures tell the time, date, positions of the planets and stars, longest and shortest days, angle of the sun and astrological signs. Fascinating stuff.
Outside of the Observatory, we find a tiny shop selling t-shirts. I buy some for the children.
We meet the rest of the group at the famous LMB Restaurant. I try Lassi for the first time. It is a yogurt based drink which is delicious. I also enjoy a very Indian veggie dish in cashew gravy with buttery nan bread.
In the afternoon I do some more shopping; the shopkeepers and street traders are very persistent sellers here and you are continually fending people off as you walk through the bazaars. If you make eye contact or stop to look at something, they are on to you. You have to be very firm, and bargain hard if you are interested in something. I buy some great Indian shirts for Leon, Harry and Ruby.
That's it for today, All the Best, John
Friday, January 08, 2010
Rajasthan 5 january 2010
Rajasthan 5 January 2010
Breakfast at Fort Mad Hogarth in the Courtyard. We have a walk through the village below the Fort, meet children playing cricket using bricks to make stumps. This is truly rural Rajasthan. A child probably less than 2 years is staggering around a courtyard shoving the goat out of the way. His young mother is happy for us to take photos of him, then I realise she would like to have one of herself and she is delighted when I show her the result. We are invited into a house where ladies are smoothing coloured stones and making necklaces with them. I buy one each for Jo and Faye. Then, in another part of the village, a girl is sat outside a doorway making bangles and we see that inside the door is a tiny shop, filled with finished bangles. I buy 3 each for the girls. They are doing well today.
Now we have to leave Mad Hogarth and we are very sad.
On the way to Jaipur is The Amber Palace. There is a Fort and the Palace sitting precariously on the crest of a long steep-sided mountain. The walk up to the Palace is much needed exercise for us, but we pass elephants carrying other tourists less energetic than us. Our guide around the Palace is Mr Vicas Bhatachraya. He has been showing visitors around here since 1959 and explains brilliantly the history and purpose of the various buildings in this fascinating and beautiful place.
Jaipur itself is a busy town and after checking into the Diggi Palace Hotel and meeting the Maharajah who owns it, we have a quick orientation walk through bazaars and town gates.
Then to a nearby cinema and Hindi movie 'The Three idiots'. Only about one tenth of the dialogue is in English, but we follow the film reasonably well and enjoy it. It is a very professionally made and popular movie.
Then a meal and to bed after a very good but long day. All the best, John
Breakfast at Fort Mad Hogarth in the Courtyard. We have a walk through the village below the Fort, meet children playing cricket using bricks to make stumps. This is truly rural Rajasthan. A child probably less than 2 years is staggering around a courtyard shoving the goat out of the way. His young mother is happy for us to take photos of him, then I realise she would like to have one of herself and she is delighted when I show her the result. We are invited into a house where ladies are smoothing coloured stones and making necklaces with them. I buy one each for Jo and Faye. Then, in another part of the village, a girl is sat outside a doorway making bangles and we see that inside the door is a tiny shop, filled with finished bangles. I buy 3 each for the girls. They are doing well today.
Now we have to leave Mad Hogarth and we are very sad.
On the way to Jaipur is The Amber Palace. There is a Fort and the Palace sitting precariously on the crest of a long steep-sided mountain. The walk up to the Palace is much needed exercise for us, but we pass elephants carrying other tourists less energetic than us. Our guide around the Palace is Mr Vicas Bhatachraya. He has been showing visitors around here since 1959 and explains brilliantly the history and purpose of the various buildings in this fascinating and beautiful place.
Jaipur itself is a busy town and after checking into the Diggi Palace Hotel and meeting the Maharajah who owns it, we have a quick orientation walk through bazaars and town gates.
Then to a nearby cinema and Hindi movie 'The Three idiots'. Only about one tenth of the dialogue is in English, but we follow the film reasonably well and enjoy it. It is a very professionally made and popular movie.
Then a meal and to bed after a very good but long day. All the best, John
Thursday, January 07, 2010
Rajasthan 4 January 2010
Rajasthan 4 January 2010
Early morning tour of the Red fort in Agra - if anything even more impressive than Taj Mahal. Built centuries ago of red sandstone, it is really a fortified palace with crocodile infested moat and a second (dry) moat filled with wild and dangerous animals. The Palace itself on the top level in the centre is amazing, structurally intact but, of course, without the gold, jewels, carpets and drapes that adorned the walls and floors originally. The guided tour is enjoyable and interesting.
After the red Fort, we have a four hour public bus journey then a hairy 4x4 ride into the hinterland ending up at Fort Mad Hogarth. The 500 year old fort is situated on an elephant back shaped hill which rises in the middle of a plain stretching for many miles to the foothills of surrounding mountain ranges. You have to see it to believe it. Astounding. I don't know who Hogarth was but for generations it has been the family home of successive Maharajahs, currently Maharajah Thakur Shiv Pratop Singh. We meet the Maharajah and his young family, and he explains that some guestrooms in the fort are let out to visitors like ourselves to raise money that is being ploughed back into renovations. We have evening drinks and a group photo with the Maharajah on top of one of the turrets. A child in the village below is flying a kite that sways and flutters in the wind above us. The sun sets behind the distant mountains. Magical.
All the best, John
Early morning tour of the Red fort in Agra - if anything even more impressive than Taj Mahal. Built centuries ago of red sandstone, it is really a fortified palace with crocodile infested moat and a second (dry) moat filled with wild and dangerous animals. The Palace itself on the top level in the centre is amazing, structurally intact but, of course, without the gold, jewels, carpets and drapes that adorned the walls and floors originally. The guided tour is enjoyable and interesting.
After the red Fort, we have a four hour public bus journey then a hairy 4x4 ride into the hinterland ending up at Fort Mad Hogarth. The 500 year old fort is situated on an elephant back shaped hill which rises in the middle of a plain stretching for many miles to the foothills of surrounding mountain ranges. You have to see it to believe it. Astounding. I don't know who Hogarth was but for generations it has been the family home of successive Maharajahs, currently Maharajah Thakur Shiv Pratop Singh. We meet the Maharajah and his young family, and he explains that some guestrooms in the fort are let out to visitors like ourselves to raise money that is being ploughed back into renovations. We have evening drinks and a group photo with the Maharajah on top of one of the turrets. A child in the village below is flying a kite that sways and flutters in the wind above us. The sun sets behind the distant mountains. Magical.
All the best, John
Wednesday, January 06, 2010
Rajasthan 3 January 2009
Rajasthan 3 January 2009
Up at 5am, arrive Delhi Station in time for 6.30 train to Agra, train arrives 11.30 departs 11.40.
Although unimpressed, the group is in good spirits. The seats in the train are very comfortable and you can buy tea and snacks from vendors walking up and down the carriages. In Agra we go straight to hotel, check in, time only for toasted sandwich before we walk to the Taj Mahal.
Wow. It is Shah Jahan's monument to, and mausoleum for, his favourite wife Mumtaz Mahal. She died giving birth to their 14th child in 1631. Building started in December that year and took 20,000 workers 22 years to complete.
It is a majestic building, entirely symmetrical (except only for the Shahs tomb placed next to his wife's after he died), beautifully designed and constructed of white marble. The four pillars around the central mausoleum lean slightly outwards so that if they fall down they will topple away from it (in an earthquake). Surrounding structures in red sandstone are complementary and impressive. Beautiful parkland, fountains and ponds between and around the set of buildings complete this awe inspiring experience.
Agra was first made the capital of India in 1501 and subsequently alternated with Delhi as the Moghul capital. Now one of India's most industrialised cities, the pollution is turning the white marble grey. The government is making efforts to clean up the city, including the banning of additional pollution producing factories in the area and motor vehicles near the Taj Mahal.
The authorities are also supporting alternative non-polluting industries, and we are taken to visit one, a carpet factory. It is all manual, spinning and dying the merino wool or silk, producing patterns, weaving(mainly by women in their homes) and finally trimming, treating and washing. The end results are incredibly beautiful in ranges of sizes, colours and patterns. (ps you can buy them at specially low prices and have then DHL'd to your home! maybe I will one day, I have their card)
Next we eat but the spinach and mushroom meal I order is too spicy for me so I hoover up some bits and leftovers from kindly fellow tourists around me.
And so ends the day I visited the Taj Mahal. Awesome and totally worth the hassle of getting there.
All the best, John
Saturday, January 02, 2010
Rajasthan 2nd January 2010
Rajasthan 2nd January 2010
The group met up last night, 11 of us, Australian (including a honeymoon couple), British and Swiss. Anant our guide hails from central India.
This morning we take a very old and crowded bus through the hectic streets to Old Delhi where we alight near the Red Fort (which unfortunately is shrouded in fog). The bus journey is an exhilarating experience in itself, not to be missed when you visit this amazing city.
We walk to Jamamasjid, a Muslim temple built in honour of the second Mogul Emperor Sanjha in 1656. This impressive structure fills regularly with 20,000 worshippers who gather in a huge outside square yard.
Next we walk to Alla Kinari bazaar and a myriad of incredibly narrow back streets packed with tiny shops. One section is THE place to go in Delhi for wedding apparel, bride and groom. Then there are little alcove shops each with its speciality produce - nuts, fruit, vegetables, spices, dried milk. jewelry, cloths, garments and monkeys leaping around the higher levels using electricity cables as if they were in the jungle. As everywhere here, the streets are packed with people, carts, bikes etc. going about their business always in a hurry, hustling through the crowd as if their life depended on it. (maybe it does to some?)
Then we find ourselves in Chandni market Street, more speciality shops with trays of produce beautifully displayed for passing shoppers.
The whole area is a mix of mostly Muslim and Hindu people who seem to blend amicably here although shoppers apparently tend to favour their own kind.
Next we catch another (much newer) bus to a Sikh Temple. Here we take off our shoes and socks and the floor tile are freezing. After washing our feet in a stream of water then through little fountains, we enter a huge hall in which several hundred people are praying and paying their respects to the sound of loud chanting. This is a seriously religious place. ''Sikhs believe in one God, do not recognise the caste system and do not believe in idol worship, rituals or superstitions. The religion consists of practical living, service to humanity, tolerance and brotherly love to all. This can be achieved by anyone who earns an honest living and leads a normal life. Their hard working ethic has taken many Sikhs to positions of influence despite comprising less than 2% of the population.''
Next to the Temple, there is a large kitchen where food is being prepared by volunteers. It smells delicious and is provided free to anyone who enters the cavernous food hall. About 2,000 people a day. Unfortunately, Anant leads us away in the opposite direction.
Now we catch the Metro to Connaught Place where Anant guides us to an outside restaurant then leaves us to fend for ourselves. I have chicken biryani which is a bit spicy for me (I come from Devon) but I still enjoy it.
Then to Pahar Ganj, the main bazaar in Delhi, a long wide crowded street with tightly packed stalls either side and street sellers hustling tourists every inch of the way. A bit like running the gauntlet, this is a stimulating experience.
Lastly to Palika Bazaar, an underground circular shopping centre on two levels. Very hot and crowded with lots of apparently good quality (according to the vendors) clothing and electrical goods at bargain prices.
Now I am all shopped out. Back via the Metro to our hotel. 6.50 now, we meet at 7 for dinner. Bye. John
The group met up last night, 11 of us, Australian (including a honeymoon couple), British and Swiss. Anant our guide hails from central India.
This morning we take a very old and crowded bus through the hectic streets to Old Delhi where we alight near the Red Fort (which unfortunately is shrouded in fog). The bus journey is an exhilarating experience in itself, not to be missed when you visit this amazing city.
We walk to Jamamasjid, a Muslim temple built in honour of the second Mogul Emperor Sanjha in 1656. This impressive structure fills regularly with 20,000 worshippers who gather in a huge outside square yard.
Next we walk to Alla Kinari bazaar and a myriad of incredibly narrow back streets packed with tiny shops. One section is THE place to go in Delhi for wedding apparel, bride and groom. Then there are little alcove shops each with its speciality produce - nuts, fruit, vegetables, spices, dried milk. jewelry, cloths, garments and monkeys leaping around the higher levels using electricity cables as if they were in the jungle. As everywhere here, the streets are packed with people, carts, bikes etc. going about their business always in a hurry, hustling through the crowd as if their life depended on it. (maybe it does to some?)
Then we find ourselves in Chandni market Street, more speciality shops with trays of produce beautifully displayed for passing shoppers.
The whole area is a mix of mostly Muslim and Hindu people who seem to blend amicably here although shoppers apparently tend to favour their own kind.
Next we catch another (much newer) bus to a Sikh Temple. Here we take off our shoes and socks and the floor tile are freezing. After washing our feet in a stream of water then through little fountains, we enter a huge hall in which several hundred people are praying and paying their respects to the sound of loud chanting. This is a seriously religious place. ''Sikhs believe in one God, do not recognise the caste system and do not believe in idol worship, rituals or superstitions. The religion consists of practical living, service to humanity, tolerance and brotherly love to all. This can be achieved by anyone who earns an honest living and leads a normal life. Their hard working ethic has taken many Sikhs to positions of influence despite comprising less than 2% of the population.''
Next to the Temple, there is a large kitchen where food is being prepared by volunteers. It smells delicious and is provided free to anyone who enters the cavernous food hall. About 2,000 people a day. Unfortunately, Anant leads us away in the opposite direction.
Now we catch the Metro to Connaught Place where Anant guides us to an outside restaurant then leaves us to fend for ourselves. I have chicken biryani which is a bit spicy for me (I come from Devon) but I still enjoy it.
Then to Pahar Ganj, the main bazaar in Delhi, a long wide crowded street with tightly packed stalls either side and street sellers hustling tourists every inch of the way. A bit like running the gauntlet, this is a stimulating experience.
Lastly to Palika Bazaar, an underground circular shopping centre on two levels. Very hot and crowded with lots of apparently good quality (according to the vendors) clothing and electrical goods at bargain prices.
Now I am all shopped out. Back via the Metro to our hotel. 6.50 now, we meet at 7 for dinner. Bye. John
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