Rajasthan 9 January 2010

Rajasthan 9 January 2010

We arrive at the station at 7am for 7.15 train that arrives at 11.40 due to fog. No comfy seats this time, we are in 'general' class, but crowdedness and discomfort are more than compensated by the group's interaction with local people who stare at us strange western folk. Vendors are selling spicy chic peas and peanuts. The peanut shells and other debris cover the floor, so there is a crackling sound as people walk by.

The scenery outside is varied, rocky desert in places, but also cultivated fields that must have required a huge amount of work to create and maintain in this landscape. There is the bright green of winter barley in its early stages, the yellow of oilseed rape/canola and the brown earth awaiting spring crops. All very ordered and tidy.

After 3 hours on the train, we alight at the tiny Bassi Station where two jeeps are waiting for us. One and half hours in these takes us along the narrowest and roughest of tracks and roads, through villages and cultivated countryside. Crops include opium which has white flowers as some of you may know.

Finally, we are negotiating a solid rock hillside, driving downwards at 45 degrees to the slope; more on this later. At the bottom is a remote lake which would have been beautiful if it had any water in it. Actually there was a little water in the middle, but it was surrounded by acres of mud and dried out edges. The last two monsoons have failed to bring the rain they need, but it is still a glorious setting. The mudflats are being searched for lotus flower roots which are much prized as cooking ingredients.
We are camping in tents already set up by the lakeside and they are luxurious, with a 5m sq. sleeping section and, to the rear, a 5x2m 'bathroom' with running h&c water to western toilet, washbasin and shower!
Five of us walk up to a ruined fort perched on the top of a hillock overlooking the lake. We see that the whole valley has the shape of a huge crater, as if we are in an ancient volcanic crater with rocky sides, the lake at the bottom and a mound in the middle with the fort on top. This is a weird and wonderful place.
Dinner in the stone built, very old tile clad Dining Hall is superb. It is a help-yourself buffet with 6 containers of various Indian dishes kept hot over gas jets. Vegetable rice, cauliflower, egg plant/aubergine, mixed veg., a bean sauce and perfectly cooked joints of chicken. This is heaven. I passed on another spicy sauce though.
Now I am in bed writing this blog with the sound of night noises from the lake and surrounding green banks and rocky slopes; it is a cacophony of birds, insects, animals and snoring Australians in nearby tents. This is a great place to be.
All the best, John