Peru, Bolivia, Brazil 14,15 Sepr 08
Sun 14 Left nice Hotel Casa Andina Puno early to board boat accross Lake Titticaca to take 15 of us to 3 inhabited islands. Titticaca is 165 kilometers long, 60k wide, 8,500 sq ks with depths ranging up to 288 meters. This is a lot of water. Originally sea water cut off from the ocean 10,000 years ago, it is now fed by 6 rivers and flows out through one rived that dissipates across Bolivia. It never reaches either the Pacific nor Atlantic Oceon. Some salt remains, but mostly fresh now.
First visit was to a man made island. Driven from Puno centuries ago, indiginous people first lived on boats then developed skills using the reeds to create islands and homes far from the invadors. They cut large sections of underwater reed root which then float to the top. These are dragged to the nearest beach to dry out, then lashed together to form a large area which is towed back out into the lake to the chosen position. Then cut top stalks and leaves of reeds are layed accross, first layer one way second at right angles etc until a floor that can be walked on is formed. The reeds are layered to a higher level for houses and other structures. They have to keep topping up the reeds and every 4 or 5 years, replace the whole island. There are hundreds of these reed islands, each containing 5 to 10 families, all with intricate interlocking cultural and spiritual customs. 526 families, 3,000 people in total. We visited one of these reed islands called Titimarka and were treated to a demonstration of how the islands are made and shown some of the foods and fish they eat. The ladies in out group dressed up in local costume with much giggling and hilarity. A small group of us were invited into one home by one of the three sisters who live in it. She spoke quite good english, attended a high school on land nearby and wants to be trained for the tourist industry. These people are very traditional in their ways and also very switched on. I bought a very nice blanket for Leon, it shows the Aconda, Puma and snake whick are central symbols top the Incas representing the heavens in which the Acondas fly, the ground on wich people and pumas live and the underground inhabited by snakes. I hope he like it.
Next to another reed island, Jachachaywa, where a wedding was underway. Bride and Groom, little bridesmaids, presents including an MFI wardrobe and a band continually playing and clearly in need of the practice. Lots of booze and soft drinks. The celebrations go on for 10 days. The men who drink the most gain some special standing in the newly weds future family.
Then on to Taquile, a large normal rocky island with a very important Headman who has even made an official visit to England. Long walk up to our rooms carring our back-packs. (Puffed a bit). Shown local produce, said to be the best woven and knitted wear in Peru. Only the men are allowed to knit. The do it VERY tightly. A boy is not allowed to get married until his knitted hat can hold water without leaking. The women weave. Beautiful stuff. Had soup for lunch, their soups are amazing, then walked to the top of the island, over 4,100 meters above sea level - more experience of not enough oxygen. Religious site, pre-inca ruins, and pictures of sunset then down for dinner. Soup again, had seconds, then white (rainbow?)trout, very fresh and perfectly cooked, plus local potatos, some a very strange shape, sort of cylindrical and wrinkly. White and brown trout were introduced by americans in 1958, first welcomed by locals but then bigger trout ate all the local fish, they all died out except 2 varieties. Not so pleased now.
Rooms very basic, shared with Ray and Stewart, bed quite comfortable with loads of thick blankets, Rumours of minus 5 degrees at night proved unfounded, it was cold but bearable. No hot water. Slept like a log.
Monday 15th today, 6am breakfast, then boat (saw some ducks) back to Puno. Bought snacks, bunch bannannas, 2 snickers bars, 2 packets buscuits, bottle water, 15 sols < 3 pounds in tiny shop from two lovely ladies who only had 4 teeth between them. Onto bus, stopped for group photo, still the 15 of us, then to border with Bolivia. No problems. On to Hotel Gloria in Copacabana. Yes Copacabana Bolivia, the first Copacabana whose meaning is origin of water viewpoint. A priest promised the Madonna he would name the next place he visited after this town, then got shipwrecked off Brazil hence the name there.
The Madonna is The Queen of the Nation, very important spititually, culturally and politically, including to non-catholics.
There is a huge church here with a special chapel containing The Madonna. Her clothes are changed daily, three times a day during special festivals. All of her clothes are jewel encrusted and beautifully embroidered. Families deprive themselves over long periods to save money to buy her an item of clothing. Tens of thousands visit the town, church and nearby hill in pilgrimages, a bit like Lourdes, sometimes 40,000 on a special day.
Bought t shirts for me, Philip, Wayne and Leon. Philips is a classic.
On to La Paz tomorrow. No troubles here or there, but a strike up north apparently.
All the Best,
John
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