Peru,Bolivia,Brazil 6 - 9 Sept 08

Peru, Bolivia, Brazil 6 - 9 Sept 08

Spectacular, Exceptional beauty, an amazing place.

We have trekked for 4 days through the Andean mountains of Peru, up to the highest pass at 4,575 meters, and down through the Sacred Inca Valley. Led by Veronica and 5 strong support team more of whom later, we followed inca trails level with the snow line, then descended into small plains and valleys. We met families and groups of people who live and flourish in this harsh environment, with mountains towering over them all around, beautiful landscapes from which they forge a living. These people are skilled in many ways, crop and livestock farming, preparing wools as described before and weaving, trading and travelling long distances to do so. School is compulsory for the children and they also walk a long way every school-day.

The most important person in our team, after Veronica, was the cook. His name is Juan and he had an assistant, Isac. The porters were led by Herman who kept close to us with his horse. The other porters, Raimundo and Melchor, went ahead each day with gang of llamas (pronounced yamas here) carring the tents and most of our gear. Camp sites were set up and made ready before our arrival each day. The dining tent had a table and 5 chairs for Veronica and us 4 trekkers. Lunch, tea, dinner, all superb, more later.

My fellow trekkers (are there 2 ks in trekkers? please let me know) were Stewart, Ray and Cindy all from West Australia. A great group, we gelled really well, with Stewart and Ray cracking jokes and all of us laughing much of the time.

Day 1, 6th, we were driven to Testayoc and left with Veronica and tha porters to start the trek which was up and up and up and up........
Now I must mention the effects of altitude. You can,t get enough oxygen into your lungs, however fit you are. Our time in Cusco and Ollantaytambo had helped us to adapt but this was something else. I had to open my mouth and nose and take in as much air as possible, it was very hard at times. Up and up and up..... Met Katy Magaly and her brother Joel on the way, then their father who told them to go with us to the camp site. They were very shy but enjoyed the experience and we chatted with them through Veronica a lot. Spanish is not the first language of the people who live in these remote areas, and Veronica is learning their language.
We all made it in good time according to Veronica to our first camp site at Tastayoq, 4,100 metres. It was bloody cold. Had a welcome cream corn soup and a salad for lunch, popcorn for tea and a beef meal and pudding for dinner.
My feet were frozen all night. Didn't get much sleep.

Day2 7th Porrige and bread and lovely marmalades for breakfast then up, up, up ........ to Huaraqtanqa Pass entrance, 4,480 metres. Saw Andean geese, a mountain caracara (a type of falcon) and an Andean Gaviota. Met Lilia, 9 years old who brought some woven goods up to us from her mother who was weaving and watching over some sheep further down the valley. This was in the middle of no-where. Mountains all around, and this lady, Beatrice, sat on the grass weaving with her 9 year old daughter. They come from the village of Ramira and are part of the Patacancha community. We went down to Beatrice, looked at the things she had made and bought a few things. I bought a nice llama each for Jo and Faye. The whole thing was an out of this world experience. Especially when I put my hand on a grassy mound which left me with a hundred prickles in my hand. I felt better about it when Veronica was helping me to pull them out.
We camped at Sondar Mayo, 4,420 metres, even colder. Lunch, tea and dinner all delicious, including pumpkin soup at some point. Bedtime, filled 2 bottles with hot water, wrapped them and put them by my feet. A better night's sleep.

Day 3, 8th, more porrige and eggs and bacon and marmalade on bread and up, up, up .... to Halancoma Pass 4575 metres, the highest point of our trek. Beautiful scenic views all around, we have had these all the way, but now we are level with the snow line. Breathtaking, literally.
now down, down, down, to the village of Pallata in the Patacancha Valley. Met more ladies and children, all in traditional dress with beautiful weavings. Cindy bought an incredibly colourful blanket. Passed small farms with cattle, pigs, llamas and horses. Photographed wild flowers, orchids, lupins, polylepis, red kanta, got one great picture of Veronica holding a ladies slipper bloom.
Special dinner today, our last night, with wine. Veronica definately a bit tipsy.
We are much lower altitude now, slept like sleeping beauty.
Camped at Pumama rea, just below an archeological site of an Inca Temple. Fascinating ruins designed with zig zag walls to honour lightening.

Day 4, 9th, today, followed Inca Trail along the side if the Inka Secret Valley. Followed incredible Inka aquaduct which is part of a network of constructed water-coursed supplying terraces down through the valley. Tremendous engineering. More vegetation, flowers, trees now. Eventually on to road ind in to Ollantaytambo. On the outskirts, came to a primaryu school having a pet animal competition. Each child had dressed up their pet with coats, pants, hats etc, there were, dogs, ducks, a baby llama, a baby goat, with teachers with clip-boards judging. We were invited in and the kids loved it.

Got to go now for farewell to Veronica evening meal.
All the Best,
John