Peru, Bolivia, Brazil Wed 17 Sept 08

Peru, Bolivia, Brazil Wed 17 Sept 08
Tour of the city of La Paz today.
First to colonial (old) city, including the La Paz ´´Wall St.´´, City Hall and Main Square. Buildings around main sq. incl both houses of government, Senate and Representatives, The Sepulcre of Santa Cruz (more later), a 16th century palace now a museum, and the Cathedral which took 250 years to completion in 1965. The Cathedral´s alter is a scaled down copy of the one in St Peter´s, Rome. One of the Chapels is dedicated to the Madonna of Copacabana. 20 years ago, 93% of the population declared themselves catholic, but now that there is much more religious tolerance and it is no longer the state religion, only 57% are catholic.
In 1953, the indiginous population became citizens, but alcoholism is the worst social plague here. Protestants from Canada and US have put programmes in place that help those addicted, and our guide`s wife also helps these people.
Santa Cruz was the first mixed race hero, his father was a Marquis and his mother one of the last Inca royalty.

Next we visited a section of the city that has been preserved by the city government. It is quite a large area of 16 &17 century spanish houses with narrow streets and lots of history. We fought our way through hordes of schoolkids to a remarkable museum containing ceramics 5th century BC to 12 c AD when the TIWANAKU (this is the correct speling) civilisation disappeared and later. The ceramics from the height of the Tiwanaku period are beautiful and very well made. Also Inca headpieces and many other items made of gold, some 24 carrots which is white gold and very soft. Also a remarkable bowl found on a lake titicaca beach by children estimated to date back to 7th - 6th century BC. This bowl has a snake around the edge and pictures of a Condor and giant frog; but most interestingly and very intriguing to historians, it has a lot of writing around the inside of the bowl that is identical to that found in Assyria, middle east, from the same period. This implies that there was migration or trade between the middle east and south america 600 years BC.
Also in the museum are recepticles for drug taking, probably weeds from the jungle similar to marijuana. The Incas and dynasties before them subjugated their people by freely supplying drugs that kept them dopy and malliable most of the time.
The Incas apparently discovered the wheel but not the axle. I struggled a bit with this piece of information. Why bother to invent the wheel without the axle. Perhaps they all drove around in wheel-barrows.

Next to Killikilli hilltop, 3,600 meters above sea level and 600 above the centre of the city. Killi is a flower. The plural is formed by repeating the word hence lots of these flowers is killikilli. Personally I think geraniums is easier that geraniumgeranium. From Killikilli you get an excellent view of Mount Illimani, 6,500 metres and snow-capped. Beautiful and imposing today in the sunlight. Then to bus again and passed replica of the Lower (underground) Temple of Tiwanaku. Sadly no time to visit the original which is some distance away.
Then we passed by a major development of a Central Park which appears mainly for youth sports and children,s playgrounds. An excellent project. 50% of La Paz population is under 18. (also, 50% is 100% indiginous ie pure indian/pre-spanish) The public university has 70,000 students. There are also 23 private universities. As in Peru, education is high priority here.

They didn´t like MacDonalds here though. Several were opened and then closed. Bolivia is the only country in south america with no MacDonalds.

Next to Moon Valley which is very interesting but nothing like the moon surface and it`s on a hill. Only recently did some french geoligists, by drilling deep down, discover that it is solidified magna from a volcano that never properly erupted. All the volcanos in Bolivia are dead and this might have been the last attempt at an erruption in the area. Will try to post a picture later.

Lastly to the Witches Market. Actually not witches at all, this name was dreamed up for the tourists. It is really a Magicians Market. Lots of amulets and lucky charms that you can get blessed to acheive your worldly wishes.

Now 4.30 (5 hours behind UK) and back in the Hotel Plaza (very nice but a bit chilly, excellent breakfast). Going to show + meal tonight with 6 others from the group. 3 flights tomorrow to get to Rio (La Paz to Lima, Lima to Sau Paulo, S Paulo to Rio. Will report on show from there.
All the Best,
John