South Africa Thurs26 - Mon30 Nov '09
Still here in Umhlanga just north of Durban. Having a relatively quiet time, incl. another one more day on the beach. One notable exception is an invite by the couple who own my accommodation to a live performance in the Barnyard Theatre which is a part of a huge Mall nearby (Gateway Mall, the largest in the southern hemisphere). The husband has a separate business and it is his firms Christmas 'do'. So we are all sitting around the table having food and drinks and waiting for the performance to begin and we chat and guess what.....they are all accountants. I can't escape. The performance, a sort of rock musical with plenty of comedy was brilliant. First Class.
Another day some friends took me to an open market. It was a good one and I bought t-shirts for Harry, Leon and Ruby.
Now I am waiting for my taxi to take me to airport for flights via Joburg to Phalaborwa.
All the Best to everyone, John
Monday, November 30, 2009
Wednesday, November 25, 2009
South Africa Wed 18 - Wed 25 Nov '09
South Africa Wed 18 - Wed 25 Nov '09
This is the first 8 days of my 'relaxing on the beach' fortnight in between the two 'active' sections of this trip to SA. Not entirely going to plan due to a storm on the second day and high winds or clouds most other days. HOWEVER, the 2 days on the beach are much appreciated, plus lots of walking most of the other days. And catching up with blogs and emails of course (in 'Seaside Cottages' with wifi).
Today, Wed 25, I am off on a day trip with Greg Garson, proprietor of Garsons Expeditions. He takes me to a reed bed on the edge of Umhlanga to explain that such beds were the dominating feature of these coastal areas. They have been largely replaced by smart residential properties. This is a very upmarket area.
Then we drive inland and into Inanda Township, a rather desparate looking collection of thousands of shacks with a filthy stream running through the middle. We are here to visit...guess what.....the house that Mhatma Ghandi lived in. He was working here in South Africa for 26 years, taking a job here following his legal training in England. The house and gardens have been preserved as a historical site, but its location within the township deters most tour operators. But not Greg. The house contains a large collection of photos of Ghandi from a young man and charts the story of his life. Fascinating and a must if you ever find yourself near Durban.
Then to Ohlange Institute, a technical school founded in the 19C, in the grounds of which is the house lived in by John L Dobe, founding father of the ANC. Dobe had meeetings with Ghandi here, and Nelson Mandela chose this place to vote in national elections. Another amazing historical site little visited.
Next to Inanda Seminary for Girls. Clean and tidy buildings set in beautiful grounds and gardens, we could be in Buckinghamshire. Pupil/teacher ratio between 17 and 20 to one. The 300 girls, 13-18, are black, polite and well spoken, and come from all backgrounds, gaining their place on merit and ability. Founded early 20C, the current Patron in Chief is Nelson Mandela. Excellent.
Now we drive to the Valley of 1000 Hills. First to a tourist attraction, a set of old Zulu dwellings that look like upside-down birds nests, a demonstration of cooking by a lady (men don't cook) and a meeting with a Tribal Chief. Then a live performance depicting a Zulu romance, engagement and lots of enthusiastic Zulu dancing. Great fun, very entertaining.
Lastly, Greg drives us into and through a valley. For mile after mile on the hills around us are small groups of Zulu dwellings, not upside-down birds nests but small block built single storey structures with electricity and outside chemical loos. They look clean and tidy, there is little litter. The stream flowing through the valley is sparkling clean. Greg tells me that each group houses an extended family, often one man and his many wives and children. We see only a small fraction of the valley. This is not a township. It is a huge community of Zulus whose ancesters came here many centuries ago. It is their home, and there is a well established hierarchy of Chiefs who administer and control the area, resorting to the South African legal system only in the most serious cases. The adults catch buses to work, the children (have to) go to school. Few white people come here, but we get happy smiles and waves from all the locals we pass, adults and children. Another positive side of South Africa.
All the Best, John
This is the first 8 days of my 'relaxing on the beach' fortnight in between the two 'active' sections of this trip to SA. Not entirely going to plan due to a storm on the second day and high winds or clouds most other days. HOWEVER, the 2 days on the beach are much appreciated, plus lots of walking most of the other days. And catching up with blogs and emails of course (in 'Seaside Cottages' with wifi).
Today, Wed 25, I am off on a day trip with Greg Garson, proprietor of Garsons Expeditions. He takes me to a reed bed on the edge of Umhlanga to explain that such beds were the dominating feature of these coastal areas. They have been largely replaced by smart residential properties. This is a very upmarket area.
Then we drive inland and into Inanda Township, a rather desparate looking collection of thousands of shacks with a filthy stream running through the middle. We are here to visit...guess what.....the house that Mhatma Ghandi lived in. He was working here in South Africa for 26 years, taking a job here following his legal training in England. The house and gardens have been preserved as a historical site, but its location within the township deters most tour operators. But not Greg. The house contains a large collection of photos of Ghandi from a young man and charts the story of his life. Fascinating and a must if you ever find yourself near Durban.
Then to Ohlange Institute, a technical school founded in the 19C, in the grounds of which is the house lived in by John L Dobe, founding father of the ANC. Dobe had meeetings with Ghandi here, and Nelson Mandela chose this place to vote in national elections. Another amazing historical site little visited.
Next to Inanda Seminary for Girls. Clean and tidy buildings set in beautiful grounds and gardens, we could be in Buckinghamshire. Pupil/teacher ratio between 17 and 20 to one. The 300 girls, 13-18, are black, polite and well spoken, and come from all backgrounds, gaining their place on merit and ability. Founded early 20C, the current Patron in Chief is Nelson Mandela. Excellent.
Now we drive to the Valley of 1000 Hills. First to a tourist attraction, a set of old Zulu dwellings that look like upside-down birds nests, a demonstration of cooking by a lady (men don't cook) and a meeting with a Tribal Chief. Then a live performance depicting a Zulu romance, engagement and lots of enthusiastic Zulu dancing. Great fun, very entertaining.
Lastly, Greg drives us into and through a valley. For mile after mile on the hills around us are small groups of Zulu dwellings, not upside-down birds nests but small block built single storey structures with electricity and outside chemical loos. They look clean and tidy, there is little litter. The stream flowing through the valley is sparkling clean. Greg tells me that each group houses an extended family, often one man and his many wives and children. We see only a small fraction of the valley. This is not a township. It is a huge community of Zulus whose ancesters came here many centuries ago. It is their home, and there is a well established hierarchy of Chiefs who administer and control the area, resorting to the South African legal system only in the most serious cases. The adults catch buses to work, the children (have to) go to school. Few white people come here, but we get happy smiles and waves from all the locals we pass, adults and children. Another positive side of South Africa.
All the Best, John
Monday, November 23, 2009
South Africa Tues 17 Nov '09
South Africa Tues 17 Nov '09
This is the last day of the group tour with 'Explore' and it is a free day, ie nothing organised. Most of the group fly back to the UK later today.
You may have noticed a major omission in out itinerary so far- it was scheduled 3 times and postponed each time due to windy or cloudy weather. So the free day is our last chance to go to the top of Table Mountain. Four of us are there at 8am and YES the cable car is open. So up we go. It is a very steep climb. A long way up. Normally the car rotates as it rises. This one is broken so it didn't rotate. I hope it isn't broken in any other way. It travels at 10 metres per second, it takes nearly 15 minutes to get to the top. 1200 metres we travel up the cable (3/4 mile?) at an angle that looks about 75 degrees to me. Almost vertical. We get to the top safely.
The views are glorious. The top of Table Mountain is very high indeed, we can see the docks, waterfront, high-rise buildings and roads far below us. All tiny. And the new stadium for World Cup 2010. Tiny in the distance, almost directly below us.
We walk on the path around the top. More panoramic views of the Cape coastline that we have travelled over the last 10 days. This was definitely worth the effort on our 4th attempt. A great place, magical.
Then the cable car down. Equally steep and long of course. This time the car IS rotating. More spectacular views, 360 degrees of them. Fantastic.
Then taxi to hotel, collect bag, taxi to airport, fly to Durban, taxi to Umhlanga just north of Durban, Seaside Cottages, bed.
All the Best, John
This is the last day of the group tour with 'Explore' and it is a free day, ie nothing organised. Most of the group fly back to the UK later today.
You may have noticed a major omission in out itinerary so far- it was scheduled 3 times and postponed each time due to windy or cloudy weather. So the free day is our last chance to go to the top of Table Mountain. Four of us are there at 8am and YES the cable car is open. So up we go. It is a very steep climb. A long way up. Normally the car rotates as it rises. This one is broken so it didn't rotate. I hope it isn't broken in any other way. It travels at 10 metres per second, it takes nearly 15 minutes to get to the top. 1200 metres we travel up the cable (3/4 mile?) at an angle that looks about 75 degrees to me. Almost vertical. We get to the top safely.
The views are glorious. The top of Table Mountain is very high indeed, we can see the docks, waterfront, high-rise buildings and roads far below us. All tiny. And the new stadium for World Cup 2010. Tiny in the distance, almost directly below us.
We walk on the path around the top. More panoramic views of the Cape coastline that we have travelled over the last 10 days. This was definitely worth the effort on our 4th attempt. A great place, magical.
Then the cable car down. Equally steep and long of course. This time the car IS rotating. More spectacular views, 360 degrees of them. Fantastic.
Then taxi to hotel, collect bag, taxi to airport, fly to Durban, taxi to Umhlanga just north of Durban, Seaside Cottages, bed.
All the Best, John
Sunday, November 22, 2009
South Africa Mon 16 Nov '09
South Africa Mon 16 Nov '09
We drive to Cape Agulhas, the most southerly point of Africa. This is officially where the Atlantic and Indian oceans meet. Not a friendly meeting. The sea is wild and rough, and it's very windy. Sadly, many ships have sunk here, as they have all along this coast. But we are tourists so we have a group photo around the 'Most Southerly Point' stone then retreat to the lighthouse cafe for tea.
Next to Hermanus (Chris didn't tell who Herm was, or the significance of this part of his body)
This is a small resort with a promenade right up against the rocky coastline. Just metres from the promenade, whales are surfacing and diving, tails in the air. They are Southern Right whales, slow and majestic. They come here every year for mating and calving. Slow motion emotion, watching these great animals.
Then more coastal road - Clarence Drive around the other side of false Bay - another top 10 scenic route. It is spectacular, cliffs rising up on one side, a raging sea crashing over shoreline rocks on the other. There are Great White sharks out there. Not a place to go out on your pedalo.
As we approach Cape Town, there is a never ending township, mostly to the left of us. It is 13 kilometres long. There are between 800,000 and 1.5 million people in townships around Cape Town. Still much to do in South Africa, housing, crime, education, economic policy - it's all inter-linked. It looks as though there has been some progress, and it's only 15 years since apartheid, so I guess it's much too early for history to judge these ANC governments. A mammoth task so Good Luck to them, I say.
We have our last supper as a group, and say farewell to each other and to Chris and Mike. They have done a great job. Tomorrow is our last day, a free (ie free of Chris!) day. All the Best, John
We drive to Cape Agulhas, the most southerly point of Africa. This is officially where the Atlantic and Indian oceans meet. Not a friendly meeting. The sea is wild and rough, and it's very windy. Sadly, many ships have sunk here, as they have all along this coast. But we are tourists so we have a group photo around the 'Most Southerly Point' stone then retreat to the lighthouse cafe for tea.
Next to Hermanus (Chris didn't tell who Herm was, or the significance of this part of his body)
This is a small resort with a promenade right up against the rocky coastline. Just metres from the promenade, whales are surfacing and diving, tails in the air. They are Southern Right whales, slow and majestic. They come here every year for mating and calving. Slow motion emotion, watching these great animals.
Then more coastal road - Clarence Drive around the other side of false Bay - another top 10 scenic route. It is spectacular, cliffs rising up on one side, a raging sea crashing over shoreline rocks on the other. There are Great White sharks out there. Not a place to go out on your pedalo.
As we approach Cape Town, there is a never ending township, mostly to the left of us. It is 13 kilometres long. There are between 800,000 and 1.5 million people in townships around Cape Town. Still much to do in South Africa, housing, crime, education, economic policy - it's all inter-linked. It looks as though there has been some progress, and it's only 15 years since apartheid, so I guess it's much too early for history to judge these ANC governments. A mammoth task so Good Luck to them, I say.
We have our last supper as a group, and say farewell to each other and to Chris and Mike. They have done a great job. Tomorrow is our last day, a free (ie free of Chris!) day. All the Best, John
Saturday, November 21, 2009
South Africa Sun 15 Nov '09
South Africa Sun 15 Nov '09
This morning we follow the Garden Route through Mossel to the farming region of Swellendam, a lovely old town full of Cape Dutch buildings. The crops have been cut in the fields, there are buzzards sitting on fence posts. Very relaxing. So relaxing, I fall asleep in the bus. Again.
We hike a trail in the nearby Marloth Nature Reserve. More beautiful woodland.
After checking into our Guest House, we're off to visit a nearby township. Townships in South Africa are where poor black and coloured people live. We have passed other townships on our travels, some of them huge, covering hundreds of acres. They are mostly tightly knit shacks, separated only by dirt roads. On the bright side, there is street lighting and running water available from a standpipe. Also, Nelson Mandela's government started a low cost home building programme that has improved conditions for a growing proportion of these people.
We are met by Meisie, a member of the Xhosa tribe and an elected representative of this particular township. Meisie is a great grandmother in her early 50s, and has two of her grandsons living with her. Meisie speaks good english and has organised a welcoming dance by a dozen or so children. She tells us about the different sections of the township and their names. The section Meisie lives in is all shacks, and she takes us on a tour. She tells us that if someone makes the mistake of breaking the law, they are fined 200 rand. If they make the mistake again, they are fined 500 rand. If they make the mistake a third time, they are locked up because it is no longer a mistake.
We see few adults, many are working in the towns, but a steadily increasing number od children join our group. They love to pose for photos and see themselves on the screen. I take many photos! The children are excited and exhuberant but impecably behaved. Meisie is in charge.
Meisie shows us their beer making process, very basic in cans, but I taste the result and it's not too bad.
Then to Meisies house, which is clean and smart and looks very comfortable. It is a shack but she has obviously been able to collect some nice things over the years.
By now there must be 100 or more children tagging along. Us tourists are instructed by Meisie to sit on chairs positioned around the edge of her garden (hers was the only garden I saw!). The children sit on the grass, tightly packed together. There are some boards laid in the middle of the garden. Then we were treated to a series of dance performances, to a beating drum, by groups of girls then boys, all dressed in simple costumes that had been specially made. Entrancing. I get some brilliant video on the camera. Then, all too soon (although it is getting a bit cold for all of us), the bus comes to collect us. This is one of the occasions that will stick in my memory long after this tour.
All the Best,
John
This morning we follow the Garden Route through Mossel to the farming region of Swellendam, a lovely old town full of Cape Dutch buildings. The crops have been cut in the fields, there are buzzards sitting on fence posts. Very relaxing. So relaxing, I fall asleep in the bus. Again.
We hike a trail in the nearby Marloth Nature Reserve. More beautiful woodland.
After checking into our Guest House, we're off to visit a nearby township. Townships in South Africa are where poor black and coloured people live. We have passed other townships on our travels, some of them huge, covering hundreds of acres. They are mostly tightly knit shacks, separated only by dirt roads. On the bright side, there is street lighting and running water available from a standpipe. Also, Nelson Mandela's government started a low cost home building programme that has improved conditions for a growing proportion of these people.
We are met by Meisie, a member of the Xhosa tribe and an elected representative of this particular township. Meisie is a great grandmother in her early 50s, and has two of her grandsons living with her. Meisie speaks good english and has organised a welcoming dance by a dozen or so children. She tells us about the different sections of the township and their names. The section Meisie lives in is all shacks, and she takes us on a tour. She tells us that if someone makes the mistake of breaking the law, they are fined 200 rand. If they make the mistake again, they are fined 500 rand. If they make the mistake a third time, they are locked up because it is no longer a mistake.
We see few adults, many are working in the towns, but a steadily increasing number od children join our group. They love to pose for photos and see themselves on the screen. I take many photos! The children are excited and exhuberant but impecably behaved. Meisie is in charge.
Meisie shows us their beer making process, very basic in cans, but I taste the result and it's not too bad.
Then to Meisies house, which is clean and smart and looks very comfortable. It is a shack but she has obviously been able to collect some nice things over the years.
By now there must be 100 or more children tagging along. Us tourists are instructed by Meisie to sit on chairs positioned around the edge of her garden (hers was the only garden I saw!). The children sit on the grass, tightly packed together. There are some boards laid in the middle of the garden. Then we were treated to a series of dance performances, to a beating drum, by groups of girls then boys, all dressed in simple costumes that had been specially made. Entrancing. I get some brilliant video on the camera. Then, all too soon (although it is getting a bit cold for all of us), the bus comes to collect us. This is one of the occasions that will stick in my memory long after this tour.
All the Best,
John
Friday, November 20, 2009
South Africa Sat 14 Nov '09
South Africa Sat 14 Nov '09
We are driving to the Tsitsikamma National Park. On the way we stop at Bloukrans where a bridge over a ravine hosts the 'worlds highest bungy jump' - 216 metres. After due consideration, I decided not to do it. As did all but one of our group, Lisa, and she changed her mind when it emerged that she could not fit in both the bunge and the canopy tour. Lisa and 3 others did the canopy tour, this requiring one to dangle from a wire strung 30 metres above the forest floor and glide between 10 platforms fixed half way up giant trees. Not for me but much enjoyed by the 4 that did it.
Tsitsikamma is a marine and forest park, 8ok long within the Garden Route. There is time for two walks, the first through coastal woodland, over a slightly scary suspension bridge at the mouth of Storms River. Then up, up, up to a platform, positioned precariously on the top of a masssive cliff, overlooking the angry sea along the coast for many miles in both directions. Spectacular (once you pluck up the courage to go near the edge).
The second walk is through dense woodland slightly further from the sea, hearing but not seeing the waves crashing onto the rocky shore. 'Explore' describe this area as 'spellbinding'. It is.
All the Best,
John
We are driving to the Tsitsikamma National Park. On the way we stop at Bloukrans where a bridge over a ravine hosts the 'worlds highest bungy jump' - 216 metres. After due consideration, I decided not to do it. As did all but one of our group, Lisa, and she changed her mind when it emerged that she could not fit in both the bunge and the canopy tour. Lisa and 3 others did the canopy tour, this requiring one to dangle from a wire strung 30 metres above the forest floor and glide between 10 platforms fixed half way up giant trees. Not for me but much enjoyed by the 4 that did it.
Tsitsikamma is a marine and forest park, 8ok long within the Garden Route. There is time for two walks, the first through coastal woodland, over a slightly scary suspension bridge at the mouth of Storms River. Then up, up, up to a platform, positioned precariously on the top of a masssive cliff, overlooking the angry sea along the coast for many miles in both directions. Spectacular (once you pluck up the courage to go near the edge).
The second walk is through dense woodland slightly further from the sea, hearing but not seeing the waves crashing onto the rocky shore. 'Explore' describe this area as 'spellbinding'. It is.
All the Best,
John
Monday, November 16, 2009
South Africa Fri 13 Nov '09
South Africa Fri 13 Nov '09
Walking normally again today. So now I have ridden ostrich in Africa, elephant in Northern Thailand, camel in Dubai and dartmoor pony in Devon. What next I wonder.
We leave Oudtshoorn today and drive through the dramatic Outeniqua Pass through the Outeniqua Mountains. These mountains form a formidable barrier between the interior and the lush coastal strip known as the Garden Route. Exceptional scenery.
We arrive at Knysna with its harbour, dockyard and lagoon. (Knysna was the home of the reputed illegitimate son of King George III)
Here we embark on a coastal walk that turns out to be a highlight of the tour. 2 hours or more around the beautiful Robberg Peninsula. Incredible rock formations, some with pebbles embedded in limestone rocks 50 metres above the beach from times when the sea level was up there. A very strange sight. The sea is rough, we see seals and dolphins, plus for those with binoculars, a Southern Right Whale in the distance. The beach we cross is remote and beautiful with massive sand dunes and the sea crashing on rocks all around. This is a glorious piece of coastline. I get some great photos.
The Lagoona Guest House here is very comfortable and the evening meal is excellent. There is an initiation ceremony for those of us who have not travelled with Explore before. The ceremony and the alcoholic concoction we have to drink are pure inventions of Chris, our guide. It is the beginning of a merry evening.
Chris by the way is larger than life, is a double of a good friend of mine Martyn Turner of Chesham Prep., and is doing a superb job keeping this 18 strong disparate group of ours in order. Fortunately, we also have Mike the driver who in turn keeps Chris in order. There is nobody to keep Mike in order.
All the Best,
John
Walking normally again today. So now I have ridden ostrich in Africa, elephant in Northern Thailand, camel in Dubai and dartmoor pony in Devon. What next I wonder.
We leave Oudtshoorn today and drive through the dramatic Outeniqua Pass through the Outeniqua Mountains. These mountains form a formidable barrier between the interior and the lush coastal strip known as the Garden Route. Exceptional scenery.
We arrive at Knysna with its harbour, dockyard and lagoon. (Knysna was the home of the reputed illegitimate son of King George III)
Here we embark on a coastal walk that turns out to be a highlight of the tour. 2 hours or more around the beautiful Robberg Peninsula. Incredible rock formations, some with pebbles embedded in limestone rocks 50 metres above the beach from times when the sea level was up there. A very strange sight. The sea is rough, we see seals and dolphins, plus for those with binoculars, a Southern Right Whale in the distance. The beach we cross is remote and beautiful with massive sand dunes and the sea crashing on rocks all around. This is a glorious piece of coastline. I get some great photos.
The Lagoona Guest House here is very comfortable and the evening meal is excellent. There is an initiation ceremony for those of us who have not travelled with Explore before. The ceremony and the alcoholic concoction we have to drink are pure inventions of Chris, our guide. It is the beginning of a merry evening.
Chris by the way is larger than life, is a double of a good friend of mine Martyn Turner of Chesham Prep., and is doing a superb job keeping this 18 strong disparate group of ours in order. Fortunately, we also have Mike the driver who in turn keeps Chris in order. There is nobody to keep Mike in order.
All the Best,
John
Saturday, November 14, 2009
South Africa Thurs 12 Nov '09
South Africa Thurs 12 Nov '09
Busy day today, travelling to various places through this beautiful and breathtaking landscape.
First to Cango Caves, huge caverns millions of years old with limestone formations created by millennia of dripping water. The guide sings African chants in the caves -eerie.
Then the Cango Ostrich Farm, meet Bella who is near the entrance - the only friendly ostrich in South Africa (normally they are aggressive and unsociable but Bella is.....well, Bella)
Next we are taken through the farm and see lots of ostriches. Then to the riding paddock.
So who wants to ride an ostrich they ask. I will say I. Big mistake. They pick the wildest one in the paddock and put a hood over its head which gratifyingly calms it down. No saddle, just a cloth over its back, I have to climb up onto it, cross my legs under its chest and hold on to its wings. So far so good but then they take its hood off and let it go. It charged off like a demented lunatic, with me on its back, running at a hell of a speed, twisting and turning, I nearly brought up the bacon, eggs and saute potatoes I had for breakfast. I hung on quite well for a while, then started to slide to one side a bit until slowly but gracefully, I fell off. I was the only one in the group daft enough to ride one of these things (although Mike the driver did too) so got a round of applause as I picked myself up and dusted myself off.
Next a picnic lunch by a spectacular 100ft. waterfall at Meirings Poort. Swam in the 9m deep pool - it was a bit fresh.
Then to Cango Wildlife Park - crocodiles, meercats, turtles, storks, otter, wart hogs, vultures and stuff, but mainly big cats. White lions, Bengal tigers, white tigers and their main conservation subjects, cheetahs. Gorgeous animals, I get to hug one, a young adult, and have photos taken by the keeper. It growled at me (the cheetah) but then started purring. A great experience.
Lastly - the evening meal was Potjie, pronounced poykey. A big pot is filled, meat (lamb) at the bottom, then potatoes then veg, it is never stirred - it was a super meal and we could go back for seconds.
Another great day, All the best, John
Busy day today, travelling to various places through this beautiful and breathtaking landscape.
First to Cango Caves, huge caverns millions of years old with limestone formations created by millennia of dripping water. The guide sings African chants in the caves -eerie.
Then the Cango Ostrich Farm, meet Bella who is near the entrance - the only friendly ostrich in South Africa (normally they are aggressive and unsociable but Bella is.....well, Bella)
Next we are taken through the farm and see lots of ostriches. Then to the riding paddock.
So who wants to ride an ostrich they ask. I will say I. Big mistake. They pick the wildest one in the paddock and put a hood over its head which gratifyingly calms it down. No saddle, just a cloth over its back, I have to climb up onto it, cross my legs under its chest and hold on to its wings. So far so good but then they take its hood off and let it go. It charged off like a demented lunatic, with me on its back, running at a hell of a speed, twisting and turning, I nearly brought up the bacon, eggs and saute potatoes I had for breakfast. I hung on quite well for a while, then started to slide to one side a bit until slowly but gracefully, I fell off. I was the only one in the group daft enough to ride one of these things (although Mike the driver did too) so got a round of applause as I picked myself up and dusted myself off.
Next a picnic lunch by a spectacular 100ft. waterfall at Meirings Poort. Swam in the 9m deep pool - it was a bit fresh.
Then to Cango Wildlife Park - crocodiles, meercats, turtles, storks, otter, wart hogs, vultures and stuff, but mainly big cats. White lions, Bengal tigers, white tigers and their main conservation subjects, cheetahs. Gorgeous animals, I get to hug one, a young adult, and have photos taken by the keeper. It growled at me (the cheetah) but then started purring. A great experience.
Lastly - the evening meal was Potjie, pronounced poykey. A big pot is filled, meat (lamb) at the bottom, then potatoes then veg, it is never stirred - it was a super meal and we could go back for seconds.
Another great day, All the best, John
Friday, November 13, 2009
South Africa Wed 11 Nov '09
South Africa Wed 11 Nov '09
Much excitement, we see a Spotted Eagle Owl in the tree outside the Guest House. At least two of our group are keen bird enthusiasts. This is a big owl.
We leave this area for long drive in the bus through spectacular mountain scenery to Oudtshoorn. On the way, we have a break at Karoo Botanical Gardens near Worcester, including a short walk up the hillside. More great scenery and millions of ants moving fluffy seedpods into their nest.
The next stop at Rooiberg Winery was just for coffee and scrumptious pecan pie and ice cream.
Then on to Barrydale in Little Karoo Valley for lunch - toasted bacon and banana sandwich - it was good, you should try it. Let me know if you do.
More travelling takes us to De Poort Guest House near Oudtshoorn in the centre of South Africa's traditional ostrich farming industry.
The accomodation is a 2 storey black, cream and brick set of buildings with roof structures made with poles bolted together and covered with thatch. Real character outside and in (but not sure about the dead zebra draped over the internal balcony bannister)
Took a one hour hike on my own up a nearby hill, along the brow and down the other side. A beautiful place. Cactii and short bushes all shapes and sizes, multi-coloured rocks and stones.
Evening meal is ostrich steak, perfectly cooked by Rita the hostess. (her husband is called Leon so they called their daughter Leorita)
I love this place.
Got to go now. All the Best,
John
Much excitement, we see a Spotted Eagle Owl in the tree outside the Guest House. At least two of our group are keen bird enthusiasts. This is a big owl.
We leave this area for long drive in the bus through spectacular mountain scenery to Oudtshoorn. On the way, we have a break at Karoo Botanical Gardens near Worcester, including a short walk up the hillside. More great scenery and millions of ants moving fluffy seedpods into their nest.
The next stop at Rooiberg Winery was just for coffee and scrumptious pecan pie and ice cream.
Then on to Barrydale in Little Karoo Valley for lunch - toasted bacon and banana sandwich - it was good, you should try it. Let me know if you do.
More travelling takes us to De Poort Guest House near Oudtshoorn in the centre of South Africa's traditional ostrich farming industry.
The accomodation is a 2 storey black, cream and brick set of buildings with roof structures made with poles bolted together and covered with thatch. Real character outside and in (but not sure about the dead zebra draped over the internal balcony bannister)
Took a one hour hike on my own up a nearby hill, along the brow and down the other side. A beautiful place. Cactii and short bushes all shapes and sizes, multi-coloured rocks and stones.
Evening meal is ostrich steak, perfectly cooked by Rita the hostess. (her husband is called Leon so they called their daughter Leorita)
I love this place.
Got to go now. All the Best,
John
Tuesday, November 10, 2009
South Africa Tuesday 10 Nov '09
South Africa Tuesday 10 Nov '09
Stellenbosch
Breakfast at a civilised 7.30, off at 8.30 on a 3 hour hike on the Helderberg Mountains behind Stellenbosch. Through woodland and scrub up the side of the nearest mountain, not quite to the top (a bit steep there). Fantastic views including Table Mountain in the distance. Weather holding out, cool dry and breezy, just right except for some high cloud. Very enjoyable.
Then to the town of Stellenbosch, a picturesque heritage-rich busy place with distinctive architecture , in a winelands valley surrounded by mountains, with lots of interesting shops and restaurants. Lunch here then a relaxed wander around ending up at the museum. This takes the form of 4 houses, the first built and furnished as in 1690 - 1720, the other 3 progressing up to the Victorian era. Fascinating to walk through them and see the rooms as they were here through the centuries.
6pm now, back at Rosenview Farm. returning to the town for dinner this evening.
Take care everyone,
John
Stellenbosch
Breakfast at a civilised 7.30, off at 8.30 on a 3 hour hike on the Helderberg Mountains behind Stellenbosch. Through woodland and scrub up the side of the nearest mountain, not quite to the top (a bit steep there). Fantastic views including Table Mountain in the distance. Weather holding out, cool dry and breezy, just right except for some high cloud. Very enjoyable.
Then to the town of Stellenbosch, a picturesque heritage-rich busy place with distinctive architecture , in a winelands valley surrounded by mountains, with lots of interesting shops and restaurants. Lunch here then a relaxed wander around ending up at the museum. This takes the form of 4 houses, the first built and furnished as in 1690 - 1720, the other 3 progressing up to the Victorian era. Fascinating to walk through them and see the rooms as they were here through the centuries.
6pm now, back at Rosenview Farm. returning to the town for dinner this evening.
Take care everyone,
John
Monday, November 09, 2009
South Africa Monday 9 Nov '09
South Africa Monday 9 Nov '09
Wine Country
Encountered a small troupe of Baboons on the road. Got some good photos.
It's Kerry's birthday today so we have a chocolate each and sing happy birthday.
First stop Drakenstein Prison. This is where Nelson Mandela was held for the last two years of his imprisonment, and where he was sensationally released, 1982 I think. They recently erected a statue of him in front of the main gate- another photo opportunity for us tourists!
Then to the town of Franschhoch, established early 18th century for french settlers, Huguenots, who started growing wine here. They were forced to learn and speak only in dutch so there is little influence on the language (africaans) but, of course, many french names continue including those we see playing for the Springboks.
Next we travel to the Seidelberg Wine Estate. We have the wine making processes explained and see the oak barrels and steel vats containing maturing wines. Then in the old brick cellars, the wine tasting commences. I don't know much about wine but it doesn't matter. I thoroughly enjoy sitting there having my glass repeatedly replenished with various samples of their produce. Have to listen to stuff about the different smells and tastes but that doesn't delay the proceedings too much. The accompanying biscuits are very nice too.
Then on to another wineyard called Fairview. There is a huge restaurant here so first I stock up on Panin, ham and cooked vegetables before commencing the second wine tasting. I enjoy this even more than the first but cannot remember much about the six wines we try here. But I do remember the wonderful cheeses we were also given to sample, especially the one called blue rock, it was out of this world.
Next we are taken to the Africaans Language monument, two concrete spires and lots of symbolic concrete shapes that depict the history and life of the local language that Africaans people are clearly very proud of. The area has lots of trees and birds - it is a very quiet and peaceful place to be. Especially after two consecutive wine tasting sessions.
Finally to Rosenview, a farmhouse all on its own in the middle of vine fields in the Stellenbosch region. A short walk in the fields followed by a superb meal cooked by the farmhouse staff. Hake mashed with mayonnaise and cheese to start, main course bobotie, chicken cottage pie, venison and veg. And the red wine of course. Don't know what was in the bobotie but it was very nice. Then ice-cream and strawberries, finishing with the locally invented red bush tea.
A very pleasant day
All the Best,
John
Wine Country
Encountered a small troupe of Baboons on the road. Got some good photos.
It's Kerry's birthday today so we have a chocolate each and sing happy birthday.
First stop Drakenstein Prison. This is where Nelson Mandela was held for the last two years of his imprisonment, and where he was sensationally released, 1982 I think. They recently erected a statue of him in front of the main gate- another photo opportunity for us tourists!
Then to the town of Franschhoch, established early 18th century for french settlers, Huguenots, who started growing wine here. They were forced to learn and speak only in dutch so there is little influence on the language (africaans) but, of course, many french names continue including those we see playing for the Springboks.
Next we travel to the Seidelberg Wine Estate. We have the wine making processes explained and see the oak barrels and steel vats containing maturing wines. Then in the old brick cellars, the wine tasting commences. I don't know much about wine but it doesn't matter. I thoroughly enjoy sitting there having my glass repeatedly replenished with various samples of their produce. Have to listen to stuff about the different smells and tastes but that doesn't delay the proceedings too much. The accompanying biscuits are very nice too.
Then on to another wineyard called Fairview. There is a huge restaurant here so first I stock up on Panin, ham and cooked vegetables before commencing the second wine tasting. I enjoy this even more than the first but cannot remember much about the six wines we try here. But I do remember the wonderful cheeses we were also given to sample, especially the one called blue rock, it was out of this world.
Next we are taken to the Africaans Language monument, two concrete spires and lots of symbolic concrete shapes that depict the history and life of the local language that Africaans people are clearly very proud of. The area has lots of trees and birds - it is a very quiet and peaceful place to be. Especially after two consecutive wine tasting sessions.
Finally to Rosenview, a farmhouse all on its own in the middle of vine fields in the Stellenbosch region. A short walk in the fields followed by a superb meal cooked by the farmhouse staff. Hake mashed with mayonnaise and cheese to start, main course bobotie, chicken cottage pie, venison and veg. And the red wine of course. Don't know what was in the bobotie but it was very nice. Then ice-cream and strawberries, finishing with the locally invented red bush tea.
A very pleasant day
All the Best,
John
Sunday, November 08, 2009
South Africa Sunday 8 November '09
South Africa Sunday 8 Nov '09
Cape Town
Yesterday, wandered around the coastal path then the V & A Waterfront, a very nicely laid out harbours and docks area with plenty of shops, live entertainment and restaurants for tourists. Saw the nearby huge stadium they have built for next year's (football) World Cup - very impressive.
Starting 11 day tour with company called 'Explore', met the group in the Ritz Hotel yesterday evening, 18 of us, leader Chris is Africaans, we have two canadians, 2 welsh, 2 northern irish and the rest english. Had a perfectly cooked rump steak in a nearby restaurant.
Today at 7.30 we climb into bus for tour of the Cape Peninsula National Park.
First to Hout Bay, an active fishing port with a dramatic backdrop of mountains including 'The Sentinal', a massive rock. We walk along the pretty beach then to a cafe for coffee.
Then an incredible cliff hugging drive along the coast to the Cape of Good Hope, this (we are told) is a world ranked route for beautiful and dramatic scenery and it is well deserved. Part of it had been closed for 3 years (due to a 5 tonne rock falling onto a car) and reopened with netting protection 3 weeks ago. Spectacular.
At Cape Point, we walk up to the lighthouse for breathtaking views, then down to beach level. I get some decent photos which I hope to attach to the e-mail.
The terrain is like moorland, but scattered about are clumps of pure white flowers. Chris tells us they are called ice plants and some have been exported to the UK but I have never seen them. They are not in full bloom for us due to the cloudy weather but are still very striking.
Next to Simonstown, a (formerly British) major navel port. Plenty of fishing boats and I have the best fish cakes ever here for lunch.
Lastly to Boulders Beach to catch sight of a resident colony of African Penguins. They used to be called the Jackass Penguin due to their donkey-like braying, but because these birds are peculiar to SA and other penguins in South America make similar noises, they re-named this lot the African Penguin. Thought you'd like to know that. They just look like penguins to me.
We drive a different way back, and see more beautiful landscape and beaches.
Raining all day so a bit wet but no matter, this is a beautiful and spectacular place.
All the Best to everyone, more to come when I can get online,
John
Cape Town
Yesterday, wandered around the coastal path then the V & A Waterfront, a very nicely laid out harbours and docks area with plenty of shops, live entertainment and restaurants for tourists. Saw the nearby huge stadium they have built for next year's (football) World Cup - very impressive.
Starting 11 day tour with company called 'Explore', met the group in the Ritz Hotel yesterday evening, 18 of us, leader Chris is Africaans, we have two canadians, 2 welsh, 2 northern irish and the rest english. Had a perfectly cooked rump steak in a nearby restaurant.
Today at 7.30 we climb into bus for tour of the Cape Peninsula National Park.
First to Hout Bay, an active fishing port with a dramatic backdrop of mountains including 'The Sentinal', a massive rock. We walk along the pretty beach then to a cafe for coffee.
Then an incredible cliff hugging drive along the coast to the Cape of Good Hope, this (we are told) is a world ranked route for beautiful and dramatic scenery and it is well deserved. Part of it had been closed for 3 years (due to a 5 tonne rock falling onto a car) and reopened with netting protection 3 weeks ago. Spectacular.
At Cape Point, we walk up to the lighthouse for breathtaking views, then down to beach level. I get some decent photos which I hope to attach to the e-mail.
The terrain is like moorland, but scattered about are clumps of pure white flowers. Chris tells us they are called ice plants and some have been exported to the UK but I have never seen them. They are not in full bloom for us due to the cloudy weather but are still very striking.
Next to Simonstown, a (formerly British) major navel port. Plenty of fishing boats and I have the best fish cakes ever here for lunch.
Lastly to Boulders Beach to catch sight of a resident colony of African Penguins. They used to be called the Jackass Penguin due to their donkey-like braying, but because these birds are peculiar to SA and other penguins in South America make similar noises, they re-named this lot the African Penguin. Thought you'd like to know that. They just look like penguins to me.
We drive a different way back, and see more beautiful landscape and beaches.
Raining all day so a bit wet but no matter, this is a beautiful and spectacular place.
All the Best to everyone, more to come when I can get online,
John
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