South Africa Wed 18 - Wed 25 Nov '09

South Africa Wed 18 - Wed 25 Nov '09


This is the first 8 days of my 'relaxing on the beach' fortnight in between the two 'active' sections of this trip to SA. Not entirely going to plan due to a storm on the second day and high winds or clouds most other days. HOWEVER, the 2 days on the beach are much appreciated, plus lots of walking most of the other days. And catching up with blogs and emails of course (in 'Seaside Cottages' with wifi).

Today, Wed 25, I am off on a day trip with Greg Garson, proprietor of Garsons Expeditions. He takes me to a reed bed on the edge of Umhlanga to explain that such beds were the dominating feature of these coastal areas. They have been largely replaced by smart residential properties. This is a very upmarket area.

Then we drive inland and into Inanda Township, a rather desparate looking collection of thousands of shacks with a filthy stream running through the middle. We are here to visit...guess what.....the house that Mhatma Ghandi lived in. He was working here in South Africa for 26 years, taking a job here following his legal training in England. The house and gardens have been preserved as a historical site, but its location within the township deters most tour operators. But not Greg. The house contains a large collection of photos of Ghandi from a young man and charts the story of his life. Fascinating and a must if you ever find yourself near Durban.

Then to Ohlange Institute, a technical school founded in the 19C, in the grounds of which is the house lived in by John L Dobe, founding father of the ANC. Dobe had meeetings with Ghandi here, and Nelson Mandela chose this place to vote in national elections. Another amazing historical site little visited.

Next to Inanda Seminary for Girls. Clean and tidy buildings set in beautiful grounds and gardens, we could be in Buckinghamshire. Pupil/teacher ratio between 17 and 20 to one. The 300 girls, 13-18, are black, polite and well spoken, and come from all backgrounds, gaining their place on merit and ability. Founded early 20C, the current Patron in Chief is Nelson Mandela. Excellent.

Now we drive to the Valley of 1000 Hills. First to a tourist attraction, a set of old Zulu dwellings that look like upside-down birds nests, a demonstration of cooking by a lady (men don't cook) and a meeting with a Tribal Chief. Then a live performance depicting a Zulu romance, engagement and lots of enthusiastic Zulu dancing. Great fun, very entertaining.

Lastly, Greg drives us into and through a valley. For mile after mile on the hills around us are small groups of Zulu dwellings, not upside-down birds nests but small block built single storey structures with electricity and outside chemical loos. They look clean and tidy, there is little litter. The stream flowing through the valley is sparkling clean. Greg tells me that each group houses an extended family, often one man and his many wives and children. We see only a small fraction of the valley. This is not a township. It is a huge community of Zulus whose ancesters came here many centuries ago. It is their home, and there is a well established hierarchy of Chiefs who administer and control the area, resorting to the South African legal system only in the most serious cases. The adults catch buses to work, the children (have to) go to school. Few white people come here, but we get happy smiles and waves from all the locals we pass, adults and children. Another positive side of South Africa.

All the Best, John