Vietnam and Thailand '08 day 13
Another day out today, this time with guide Pon
First to Sankampaeng Hot Springs, a visitor centre way out in the countryside frequented mainly by the local population rather than tourists I think. Beautiful grounds to walk around with flower beds and trees. Boiling water (105 degrees c according to one notice exclamation mark) shooting and bubbling out of the ground and collected in a pond and a little river of hot water winding its way through the grounds. A pool that you can swim in, and little chalets that you can stay in. A lovely spot to visit.
Pon bought a basket of eggs at the ticket office. At the pond, she suspended them in the water for them to boil. Then we sat with our feet dangling in the river of hot water and ate the eggs with a little soy sauce sprinkled on top. Blissful.
Back on the road, we stopped at a roadside stall, where Pon bought some vegetables. They have become very expensive in the city apparently, possibly a by-product of tourism. They are very concerned about inflation over here.
Half way back, we parked up in a small town for lunch in a tiny restaurant in a small market area, again obviously used mainly by locals, for a very enjoyable Thai meal.
Then, in the same town, we spent 2 hours in an umbrella factory. Well, parasols really. This WAS for tourists, and was fascinating. Watched workers making the frames out of bamboo and the material out of a sticky solution made from the bark of a tree. Especially interesting watching a very skilled lady placing the material over the frame and sticking and trimming it. All of the patterns and pictures on the material are hand-painted by an army of painters, who also, for a small fee, will paint a picture on your equipment. I had an elephant painted and Pon had flowers painted on her mobile phone. I will show you when I get home.
Bought a mobile for Jo in the shop, bought a parasol for Pon.
A charming day, loved every minute.
This was my last full day in the north of Thailand. Whilst the friendliness is the same as everywhere else in this part of the world, the people and culture are subtly different. The north has a charm of its own, not to be missed and well worth the time spent here.
Happy days, take care everyone,
John
Saturday, March 01, 2008
Friday, February 29, 2008
Vietnam and Thailand '08 day 12
Vietnam and Thailand '08 day12
Another trip today, first to orchid nursery, very nice, they seem to grow out of thin air, suspended with roots dangling down, beautiful blooms of all colours sprouting out of the tops. Just given plenty of water.
Then on to the the main objective, the Maesa Elephant Camp. It was founded in 1976 by Mr Choochart Kalmapijit starting with 5 elephants. 'With high concern for healthcare and breeding for captive elephants' there is now over 70 happy elephants living in the camp. The camp even has accreditation for iso 9001:2000.
They were a real bunch of characters. Our guide informed us that they work in the mornings and are free to roam in the afternoons and evenings until needed for the next morning, when each mahout has to find his elephant. They call their elephant and some come to their 'master'. Each elephant has his own bell so if they don't come, the mahout can hear his elephant's bell and track him or her down. But apparently some elephants don't want to be found. So they hide behind trees, standing very still or even holding their bell with their trunk so that the mahout cannot see or hear them.
First introduction is to about 10 of them all in a line ready to accept bunches of bananas handily available for tourists to buy as you walk into the camp. With Mahouts on their backs, they will place a hat on your head and pose for photos before taking it off ready for the next customer who still has some bananas.
(You girls will be interested to learn that gestation for elephants is 22 months. Expectant mothers develop a close friendship during pregnancy with another female who then helps at the birth including cutting? the umbilical chord. Like a sort of midwife).
Next four of them went for a lazy soak in the nearby creek - more photo opportunities.
Then we were taken to the seating around a huge arena. Dozens of elephants with their mahouts began to congregate in one corner. Then they put on a show. Well it's worth travelling to Thailand just to see this. They paraded, danced, did some gymnastics, played football including taking a penalty after one of them committed a foul (he obviously played for Yeovil in an earlier life), threw darts at balloons in competition with one of the spectators, painted pictures (yes pictures, I have a photo to prove it). They bowed to the audience and wiggled their bums when applauded. Great stuff, and as far as I as a layman can tell, they seemed to be thoroughly enjoying it all.
Finally the elephant ride. Sitting on a wooden seat fitted right on the highest point of his back, with the mahout astride his neck, this bloody huge elephant took me for a one hour trek along a narrow path through the jungle. He stopped regularly along the way to grab grass and foliage within his reach - must have consumed a skip-full just in that hour. (They eat 200 kilos and drink 60 gallons daily). Up and down steep, sometimes wet and slippery, slopes, he picked his footings with great care and didn't fall over once.
Another memorable day, I will never forget the elephants.
All the Best to everyone,
John
Another trip today, first to orchid nursery, very nice, they seem to grow out of thin air, suspended with roots dangling down, beautiful blooms of all colours sprouting out of the tops. Just given plenty of water.
Then on to the the main objective, the Maesa Elephant Camp. It was founded in 1976 by Mr Choochart Kalmapijit starting with 5 elephants. 'With high concern for healthcare and breeding for captive elephants' there is now over 70 happy elephants living in the camp. The camp even has accreditation for iso 9001:2000.
They were a real bunch of characters. Our guide informed us that they work in the mornings and are free to roam in the afternoons and evenings until needed for the next morning, when each mahout has to find his elephant. They call their elephant and some come to their 'master'. Each elephant has his own bell so if they don't come, the mahout can hear his elephant's bell and track him or her down. But apparently some elephants don't want to be found. So they hide behind trees, standing very still or even holding their bell with their trunk so that the mahout cannot see or hear them.
First introduction is to about 10 of them all in a line ready to accept bunches of bananas handily available for tourists to buy as you walk into the camp. With Mahouts on their backs, they will place a hat on your head and pose for photos before taking it off ready for the next customer who still has some bananas.
(You girls will be interested to learn that gestation for elephants is 22 months. Expectant mothers develop a close friendship during pregnancy with another female who then helps at the birth including cutting? the umbilical chord. Like a sort of midwife).
Next four of them went for a lazy soak in the nearby creek - more photo opportunities.
Then we were taken to the seating around a huge arena. Dozens of elephants with their mahouts began to congregate in one corner. Then they put on a show. Well it's worth travelling to Thailand just to see this. They paraded, danced, did some gymnastics, played football including taking a penalty after one of them committed a foul (he obviously played for Yeovil in an earlier life), threw darts at balloons in competition with one of the spectators, painted pictures (yes pictures, I have a photo to prove it). They bowed to the audience and wiggled their bums when applauded. Great stuff, and as far as I as a layman can tell, they seemed to be thoroughly enjoying it all.
Finally the elephant ride. Sitting on a wooden seat fitted right on the highest point of his back, with the mahout astride his neck, this bloody huge elephant took me for a one hour trek along a narrow path through the jungle. He stopped regularly along the way to grab grass and foliage within his reach - must have consumed a skip-full just in that hour. (They eat 200 kilos and drink 60 gallons daily). Up and down steep, sometimes wet and slippery, slopes, he picked his footings with great care and didn't fall over once.
Another memorable day, I will never forget the elephants.
All the Best to everyone,
John
Thursday, February 28, 2008
Vietnam and Thailand '08 day 11
Vietnam and Thailand '08 day 11
Chiang Mai is the ancient city of the North. Located in mountainous terrain it was founded in 1296 by King Mengrai the Great (you remember him?). It was the capital of Lanna Thai (Kingdom of a million rice fields), the first independent kingdom in the Golden Triangle. Until recently, it could only be reached from Bangkok by an arduous river journey and elephant back taking several weeks. The isolation of Chiang Mai allowed it to develop independently, somewhat influenced by Burma, and accounts for much of its present charm. The people of Chiang Mai have their own customs, architectural traditions, alphabet, dance, cuisine, handicrafts and a distinct lilting dialect.
Today is my first full day here. Took an excursion to the premier and famous Wat Phrathat Doi Suthep Rajvoravihara which is located very high up the nearby mountain. Very steep windy road up and up and up seemingly forever. Especially interesting drive due to the traditional pastime over here of taking the shortest route at every opportunity resulting in downcoming traffic cutting corners and frequently appearing coming towards us on our side of the road. Invigorating stuff.
306 steps up to the temple from the car park. However my fellow travellers opted for the vernickerly railway so I went with the majority and we rode up in a very cramped carriage. The view from the top of the city far below was breathtaking. The temple complex was an attractive collection of about 30 buildings of the Llanna style. According to legend, holy relics discovered during the reign of King Kuena (1355 - 1385) were placed in a howdah on the back of a white elephant, which carried them to Wat Phrathat then dropped dead due to exhaustion. The white elephant is especially revered in this part of Thailand.
Stup Pagoda (Golden Chedi) in the centre of the complex is the famous golden Chedi of Wat Phrathat Doi Suthep, 79 feet high and 39 feet across its base, it is covered with engraved gold plate and flanked by 4 ornamental umbrellas. It is astoundingly beautiful.
''Doi Suthep, a secret peak that speaks of old Thai customs, where natures beauty doth unfold over the golden chedi''
We also visited a Hmong mountain village. The Hmong originated from China and live to a much more basic standard than the indigenous Thais. The people of this village had taken full advantage of the opportunities presented by tourist visitors. Dozens of little shops in tight alleyways, charming in their own right, adults and children in traditional costume and even an old lady reputed to be 102 posing for photographs for a small payment, all in good humour and great fun.
Then we emerged into an incredibly beautiful flower garden, perhaps an acre in size, laid out on a gently sloping hillside at the edge of the village with flowering plants of every conceivable colour, surrounded by the intense green of the trees and undergrowth of the jungle for miles around. Absolutely delightful, another memory that will endure of this trip.
The poor people of this village are undoubtedly the richest people on earth to be living here. A truly wonderful place.
John
Chiang Mai is the ancient city of the North. Located in mountainous terrain it was founded in 1296 by King Mengrai the Great (you remember him?). It was the capital of Lanna Thai (Kingdom of a million rice fields), the first independent kingdom in the Golden Triangle. Until recently, it could only be reached from Bangkok by an arduous river journey and elephant back taking several weeks. The isolation of Chiang Mai allowed it to develop independently, somewhat influenced by Burma, and accounts for much of its present charm. The people of Chiang Mai have their own customs, architectural traditions, alphabet, dance, cuisine, handicrafts and a distinct lilting dialect.
Today is my first full day here. Took an excursion to the premier and famous Wat Phrathat Doi Suthep Rajvoravihara which is located very high up the nearby mountain. Very steep windy road up and up and up seemingly forever. Especially interesting drive due to the traditional pastime over here of taking the shortest route at every opportunity resulting in downcoming traffic cutting corners and frequently appearing coming towards us on our side of the road. Invigorating stuff.
306 steps up to the temple from the car park. However my fellow travellers opted for the vernickerly railway so I went with the majority and we rode up in a very cramped carriage. The view from the top of the city far below was breathtaking. The temple complex was an attractive collection of about 30 buildings of the Llanna style. According to legend, holy relics discovered during the reign of King Kuena (1355 - 1385) were placed in a howdah on the back of a white elephant, which carried them to Wat Phrathat then dropped dead due to exhaustion. The white elephant is especially revered in this part of Thailand.
Stup Pagoda (Golden Chedi) in the centre of the complex is the famous golden Chedi of Wat Phrathat Doi Suthep, 79 feet high and 39 feet across its base, it is covered with engraved gold plate and flanked by 4 ornamental umbrellas. It is astoundingly beautiful.
''Doi Suthep, a secret peak that speaks of old Thai customs, where natures beauty doth unfold over the golden chedi''
We also visited a Hmong mountain village. The Hmong originated from China and live to a much more basic standard than the indigenous Thais. The people of this village had taken full advantage of the opportunities presented by tourist visitors. Dozens of little shops in tight alleyways, charming in their own right, adults and children in traditional costume and even an old lady reputed to be 102 posing for photographs for a small payment, all in good humour and great fun.
Then we emerged into an incredibly beautiful flower garden, perhaps an acre in size, laid out on a gently sloping hillside at the edge of the village with flowering plants of every conceivable colour, surrounded by the intense green of the trees and undergrowth of the jungle for miles around. Absolutely delightful, another memory that will endure of this trip.
The poor people of this village are undoubtedly the richest people on earth to be living here. A truly wonderful place.
John
Wednesday, February 27, 2008
Vietnam and Thailand '08 day 10
Vietnam and Thailand '08 day 10
Flight to Chiang Mai (name means 'new city', it is only 700 years old exclamation mark). Excellent hotel with a free lunch - fried pork, fried fish, squid, fried rice, and green beans on the Riverside Terrace - superb. Just walked around the rest of the afternoon. Saw much more of the 'real' people and city than in Bangkok, even though Chiang Mai is second largest city, 1.7 million. According to transfer/tour rep., people here have rounder faces, are shorter and do not rush - they would rather let someone in a hurry pass them by. Maybe this is the best outlook? (except in business of course). The few I spoke to today were very friendly as everywhere else I have been in this part of the world. Maybe a bit more reserved which is fine. Except lady in charge of internet shop, laugh a minute, gave me 2 bannanas, will definately go back there.
(sign in hotel - 'please do not open the window to step out onto the balcony, this hotel does not have any balconys. Due to an error, patio doors were installed as windows on all 25 floors. Please ignore the helpful arrow and sign 'slide'. The hotel management has undertaken to replace the windows as soon as they are fully depreciated by the accountants. Thank you for choosing our hotel')
All the Best,
John
Flight to Chiang Mai (name means 'new city', it is only 700 years old exclamation mark). Excellent hotel with a free lunch - fried pork, fried fish, squid, fried rice, and green beans on the Riverside Terrace - superb. Just walked around the rest of the afternoon. Saw much more of the 'real' people and city than in Bangkok, even though Chiang Mai is second largest city, 1.7 million. According to transfer/tour rep., people here have rounder faces, are shorter and do not rush - they would rather let someone in a hurry pass them by. Maybe this is the best outlook? (except in business of course). The few I spoke to today were very friendly as everywhere else I have been in this part of the world. Maybe a bit more reserved which is fine. Except lady in charge of internet shop, laugh a minute, gave me 2 bannanas, will definately go back there.
(sign in hotel - 'please do not open the window to step out onto the balcony, this hotel does not have any balconys. Due to an error, patio doors were installed as windows on all 25 floors. Please ignore the helpful arrow and sign 'slide'. The hotel management has undertaken to replace the windows as soon as they are fully depreciated by the accountants. Thank you for choosing our hotel')
All the Best,
John
Vietnam and Thailand '08 day 9
Vietnam and Thailand '08 day 9
Early start today for tour - Bridge over the River Kwai and Tiger Temple
Driven 2 hours to Karchanaburi on River Kwai, first was a look around the museum of photos and drawings of prisoners of war and the conditions they lived and worked in during their forced labours to build the 415k Burma - Thailand railway, bridges and cuttings in 1942/3. The Japanese War Cabinet ordered the construction of the railway to supply its army in Burma (now Myanmar) following the defeat of its navy in the Battle of Midway in June 1942. The railway, planned and abandoned by the British years earlier and estimated by them to require 4 years to build, was completed in 15 months. The Japanese used 30,000 British, 18,000 Dutch, 13,000 Australian and 700 American prisoners of war plus an unknown number of Asian labourers from China, Burma, Thailand, Malaya and Singapore. 13,000 British, Australian, Dutch and Americans plus 70,000 - 90,000 Asians died. Malaria, dysentry, ulcers, cholera, starvation, exhaustion, falls from bridges, executions, beatings to death.
After the museum, into a small fast boat, only room for 5 in each, up the river to the bridge. The original wooden one has disappeared but the second one, made of steel and repaired after being bombed by the allies, is still in use. Also a tourist attraction. I was able to walk across the whole length of the bridge along the centre of the track - fotunately got back before a waiting train started to cross. Got some good photos.
(interesting footnote, I am hopeless with heights and this bridge was high above the water but I have much less of a problem when there is water below can anyone explain this?)
After bridge, lunch in a riverside restaurant - excellent. Interestingly, we learned from our guide ( a very attractive young lady) that the film 'Bridge over the River Kwai' is banned in Thailand - not sure whether due to inaccuracies or unacceptable content.
After lunch, we visited a huge cemetary containing thev remains and headstones of 7,000 of the pows who died. They were in sections, British, Australian, Dutch and American. Harrowing.
Then on to the Tiger Temple.Tigers on leads, Monks free to roam and tourists herded by keepers. Beautiful and impressive beasts (the tigers), lots of photo oportunities, got several of me hugging tigers, tried to get one hugging the guide but not allowed. 4 cubs, 3 asleep, 1 (the male) very active, free to roam with keeper close at hand, stalking goats and pigs . very entertaining. Given a tiger lead as a souvenier, this will be very useful in Bovingdon.
Another great day.
Evening, back to the same restaurant as last night for meal. Girls opposite very subdued this evening, all with hangovers I guess.
Best wishes to everyone,
John
Early start today for tour - Bridge over the River Kwai and Tiger Temple
Driven 2 hours to Karchanaburi on River Kwai, first was a look around the museum of photos and drawings of prisoners of war and the conditions they lived and worked in during their forced labours to build the 415k Burma - Thailand railway, bridges and cuttings in 1942/3. The Japanese War Cabinet ordered the construction of the railway to supply its army in Burma (now Myanmar) following the defeat of its navy in the Battle of Midway in June 1942. The railway, planned and abandoned by the British years earlier and estimated by them to require 4 years to build, was completed in 15 months. The Japanese used 30,000 British, 18,000 Dutch, 13,000 Australian and 700 American prisoners of war plus an unknown number of Asian labourers from China, Burma, Thailand, Malaya and Singapore. 13,000 British, Australian, Dutch and Americans plus 70,000 - 90,000 Asians died. Malaria, dysentry, ulcers, cholera, starvation, exhaustion, falls from bridges, executions, beatings to death.
After the museum, into a small fast boat, only room for 5 in each, up the river to the bridge. The original wooden one has disappeared but the second one, made of steel and repaired after being bombed by the allies, is still in use. Also a tourist attraction. I was able to walk across the whole length of the bridge along the centre of the track - fotunately got back before a waiting train started to cross. Got some good photos.
(interesting footnote, I am hopeless with heights and this bridge was high above the water but I have much less of a problem when there is water below can anyone explain this?)
After bridge, lunch in a riverside restaurant - excellent. Interestingly, we learned from our guide ( a very attractive young lady) that the film 'Bridge over the River Kwai' is banned in Thailand - not sure whether due to inaccuracies or unacceptable content.
After lunch, we visited a huge cemetary containing thev remains and headstones of 7,000 of the pows who died. They were in sections, British, Australian, Dutch and American. Harrowing.
Then on to the Tiger Temple.Tigers on leads, Monks free to roam and tourists herded by keepers. Beautiful and impressive beasts (the tigers), lots of photo oportunities, got several of me hugging tigers, tried to get one hugging the guide but not allowed. 4 cubs, 3 asleep, 1 (the male) very active, free to roam with keeper close at hand, stalking goats and pigs . very entertaining. Given a tiger lead as a souvenier, this will be very useful in Bovingdon.
Another great day.
Evening, back to the same restaurant as last night for meal. Girls opposite very subdued this evening, all with hangovers I guess.
Best wishes to everyone,
John
Tuesday, February 26, 2008
day 8 continued
day 8 continued
sorry - the keyboard froze. I upset it by holding the shift key down for more than 8 seconds.
After the gem factory, back to the hotel to recover exclamation mark (sorry again, I can't find the exclamation mark on this Thai keyboard)
It was a great day and the Grand Palace will be one of the enduring memories of this trip.
Evening, found the raunchiest bar in the neighbourhood and had a meal in the restaurant opposite and watched Liverpool vs Inter on the raunchy bar tele accross the (narrow) road interspersed with major distractions from the girls 'manning' the entrance to their bar. A good night to be there because they were celebrating (with whisky) their bosses birthday. They were having a great time despite the lack of customers, dancing to the loud music and giving any passing male a very hard time indeed. Two of them came over (separately) to talk to me, the sad old-timer in the restaurant opposite. One was from Chiang Rai near to where I am travelling to next, she was working in Bangkok to send money back to her mother at home. The other had 2 children and was looking for a man with money to support them and settle down with. Not sad, just reality in Bangkok. They both went back to their party/work and had some more whisky.
Got to bed just after midnight, not too bad, but being collected 6.15am for tomorrow's tour exclamation mark I will try to find this key when I have more time All the Best,
John
sorry - the keyboard froze. I upset it by holding the shift key down for more than 8 seconds.
After the gem factory, back to the hotel to recover exclamation mark (sorry again, I can't find the exclamation mark on this Thai keyboard)
It was a great day and the Grand Palace will be one of the enduring memories of this trip.
Evening, found the raunchiest bar in the neighbourhood and had a meal in the restaurant opposite and watched Liverpool vs Inter on the raunchy bar tele accross the (narrow) road interspersed with major distractions from the girls 'manning' the entrance to their bar. A good night to be there because they were celebrating (with whisky) their bosses birthday. They were having a great time despite the lack of customers, dancing to the loud music and giving any passing male a very hard time indeed. Two of them came over (separately) to talk to me, the sad old-timer in the restaurant opposite. One was from Chiang Rai near to where I am travelling to next, she was working in Bangkok to send money back to her mother at home. The other had 2 children and was looking for a man with money to support them and settle down with. Not sad, just reality in Bangkok. They both went back to their party/work and had some more whisky.
Got to bed just after midnight, not too bad, but being collected 6.15am for tomorrow's tour exclamation mark I will try to find this key when I have more time All the Best,
John
Vietnam and Thailand '08 day 8
Vietnam and Thailand '08 day 8
Did a tour of Bangkok, picked up at hotel at 6.45 ugh. Traffic really bad in this city, even with 8 lane dual carriageways, so took over 1 hour to collect rest of group, mostly australians, and get to riverside quay. Into boat, up very busy wide Chao Phraya river, guide pointed out temples (wats), of varying size, antiquity and ornatity. Especially striking was The Temple of Dawn (1842) at which we stopped to walk around. The river floating market has disappeared but a few lone traders in punts were plying their waresalong the sides of the riverwhere many old wooden houses on stilts are homes to Bangkok families. 95% of Thais follow Buddhism, closely telated to Hinduism but we did see a couple of Christian churches, although the moslem community makes up most of the other 5%. The guide, a very enthusiastic and very much in control thai lady, pointed out a lizard lying in the sun at the top of some steps. It looked like our lizards but much larger, maybe 2 ft/600mm long. Amazingly then, as if for our benefit, a very much larger specimin emerged from the water, climbed up the steps and chased the smaller one away. The newcomer was longer than the flight of 12 or so steps, I guess he was 6ft/2m long.All of us tourists and even the guide were very excited.
Next, up a canal, more waterside dwellings and sight of the Kings Royal Barge parked in it's 'garage'.
Also along the river and canals, often very nearto and towering over old timber houses, are many multi-storey buildings - hotels, banks, office blocks. The contrast of old and new illustrates the rapid development of Thailand over recent decades. Thailand is some way ahead of Vietnam and Cambodia in terms of economic development and infrastructure, and from what I can make out, much of the credit for Thailand's progress belongs to the present King and other members of the Royal family. The King is the longest serving living monarch, over 60 years on the throne.
Next on the tour was the Grand Palace complex. Begun in 1782 and steadily added to over 120 years, it is a remarkable and beautiful collection of 34? Royal Mansions, Halls, Pavilions, Temples and other strustures as well as the Palace itself. Unlike the Citadel in Hue, the complex is complete, well preserved and maintained and in regular use as well as being open to visitors. The Temple of the Emeralg Buddha is breathtaking. Many of the outside walls are decorated with millions of tiny pieces of stone of all the colours you can think of, all cut and placed by hand, producing a stunningly beautiful effect. Other structures are covered in gold leaf, erected in honour of deceased members of the Royal family. Dotted around are all sorts of animal based figures and ornamental trees and shrubs. All around the sides of one huge building is a mural depicting an historical conflict between one of the Kings and a devil adversary who tried and failed to steal the Kings wife.
Sadly one building was closed because it contaoined the body of the Kings elder sisterwho died in early January.. She has been embalmed and wiill be kept for many months before cremation.It is common practice in Thailand for the embalmed bodies of deceased relations to be kept for a time before cremation. Our guide told us that her Grandfather was kept in a corner of the family house while they saved up for and made preparations for his funeral. She said she really missed him being there after he was eventually cremated.
After the Grand Palace, we were taken to a gemstone and jewellry factory and showroom. Emeralds, rubys, saphire, jade. Beautiful stuff with maybe 60 workers skillfully working the stones plus gold and silver into totally hand-made jewellry. Thousands of items on display for sale in the huge showroom. Well worth a visit next time you are in Bangkok, although you have to resist the pleasantly hard sell by the numerous staff who are more than willing to assist you in your purchases. I resisted.
After the gem factory, back to the hotel to recover
Did a tour of Bangkok, picked up at hotel at 6.45 ugh. Traffic really bad in this city, even with 8 lane dual carriageways, so took over 1 hour to collect rest of group, mostly australians, and get to riverside quay. Into boat, up very busy wide Chao Phraya river, guide pointed out temples (wats), of varying size, antiquity and ornatity. Especially striking was The Temple of Dawn (1842) at which we stopped to walk around. The river floating market has disappeared but a few lone traders in punts were plying their waresalong the sides of the riverwhere many old wooden houses on stilts are homes to Bangkok families. 95% of Thais follow Buddhism, closely telated to Hinduism but we did see a couple of Christian churches, although the moslem community makes up most of the other 5%. The guide, a very enthusiastic and very much in control thai lady, pointed out a lizard lying in the sun at the top of some steps. It looked like our lizards but much larger, maybe 2 ft/600mm long. Amazingly then, as if for our benefit, a very much larger specimin emerged from the water, climbed up the steps and chased the smaller one away. The newcomer was longer than the flight of 12 or so steps, I guess he was 6ft/2m long.All of us tourists and even the guide were very excited.
Next, up a canal, more waterside dwellings and sight of the Kings Royal Barge parked in it's 'garage'.
Also along the river and canals, often very nearto and towering over old timber houses, are many multi-storey buildings - hotels, banks, office blocks. The contrast of old and new illustrates the rapid development of Thailand over recent decades. Thailand is some way ahead of Vietnam and Cambodia in terms of economic development and infrastructure, and from what I can make out, much of the credit for Thailand's progress belongs to the present King and other members of the Royal family. The King is the longest serving living monarch, over 60 years on the throne.
Next on the tour was the Grand Palace complex. Begun in 1782 and steadily added to over 120 years, it is a remarkable and beautiful collection of 34? Royal Mansions, Halls, Pavilions, Temples and other strustures as well as the Palace itself. Unlike the Citadel in Hue, the complex is complete, well preserved and maintained and in regular use as well as being open to visitors. The Temple of the Emeralg Buddha is breathtaking. Many of the outside walls are decorated with millions of tiny pieces of stone of all the colours you can think of, all cut and placed by hand, producing a stunningly beautiful effect. Other structures are covered in gold leaf, erected in honour of deceased members of the Royal family. Dotted around are all sorts of animal based figures and ornamental trees and shrubs. All around the sides of one huge building is a mural depicting an historical conflict between one of the Kings and a devil adversary who tried and failed to steal the Kings wife.
Sadly one building was closed because it contaoined the body of the Kings elder sisterwho died in early January.. She has been embalmed and wiill be kept for many months before cremation.It is common practice in Thailand for the embalmed bodies of deceased relations to be kept for a time before cremation. Our guide told us that her Grandfather was kept in a corner of the family house while they saved up for and made preparations for his funeral. She said she really missed him being there after he was eventually cremated.
After the Grand Palace, we were taken to a gemstone and jewellry factory and showroom. Emeralds, rubys, saphire, jade. Beautiful stuff with maybe 60 workers skillfully working the stones plus gold and silver into totally hand-made jewellry. Thousands of items on display for sale in the huge showroom. Well worth a visit next time you are in Bangkok, although you have to resist the pleasantly hard sell by the numerous staff who are more than willing to assist you in your purchases. I resisted.
After the gem factory, back to the hotel to recover
Monday, February 25, 2008
Vietnam and Thailand '08 day 7
Vietnam and Thailand '08 day 7
Travelling day today, Hue to Hanoi to Bangkok. Flights all good and on time. Hotel in Bangkok is at the end of a narrow one-way street full of shops and restaurants. Very smart hotel and room. Booked 2 excursions for next 2 days with travel rep. after checking in.
Evening meal in Leabanese restaurant nearby, excellent food but served by miserable man who looked like the owner or manager - obviously didn't want to be there or maybe didn't like westerners. Food took a long time too. Rest of staff very attentive and efficient but appeared to be downcast - miserableness is infectious. First unhappy person I've come accross on this trip.
Walked around local area for a while, hundreds of small shops and eating places many offering western food, stalls on the pavements, cooked food on roadside kitchens, packed with locals and tourists. Massive overhead monorail passenger transport system dominates the nearby main road. Some cities like Hue are just big towns, Bangkok is definately a city city.
Keep in touch,
John
Travelling day today, Hue to Hanoi to Bangkok. Flights all good and on time. Hotel in Bangkok is at the end of a narrow one-way street full of shops and restaurants. Very smart hotel and room. Booked 2 excursions for next 2 days with travel rep. after checking in.
Evening meal in Leabanese restaurant nearby, excellent food but served by miserable man who looked like the owner or manager - obviously didn't want to be there or maybe didn't like westerners. Food took a long time too. Rest of staff very attentive and efficient but appeared to be downcast - miserableness is infectious. First unhappy person I've come accross on this trip.
Walked around local area for a while, hundreds of small shops and eating places many offering western food, stalls on the pavements, cooked food on roadside kitchens, packed with locals and tourists. Massive overhead monorail passenger transport system dominates the nearby main road. Some cities like Hue are just big towns, Bangkok is definately a city city.
Keep in touch,
John
Saturday, February 23, 2008
Vietnam and Thailand '08 day 6
Vietnam and Thailand '08 day 6
Walked, pottered, read and packed through the day. Collected at 7pm by Tuan as arranged for meal prepared by Quy at their home. Wow, it was even more delicious than the previous evening's restaurant meal. The spring rolls dipped in sauce were exquisite. 4 0r 5 courses with sticky white rice, all so tasty it was like being in heaven. Had to stop when I got full up again. brilliant.
Before the meal, Tuan took me to meet the neighbours the other side. Met the mother and daughter first, the latter spoke very good english so we all chatted for some time with her and Tuan translating for her mother although it is surprising how much you can make yourself understood with signs and gesticulations. The mother, a very nice and hospitable lady, poured some rice wine for me from a jar containing green plants seemingly growing in the wine. I just felt like a glass of wine, and this was very tasty but nearly blew my head off - it was like drinking neat whiskey. I enjoyed it very much once I realised how strong it was. We had some Thai tea afterwards which was very pleasant after the rice wine. The father joined us and I told him how much I admired his beautiful carved furniture, very striking and expensive hand carved hardwood, teak I believe. As I left he showed me a whole array of very impressive bonsai trees, plants and flowers displayed just outside their doorway. He must have worked over many years to produce these.
Back to Tuan and Quy's, more photos of them with Tao and Nung who were on the go all of the time but behaved impecably all evening.
Eventually driven back to hotel by Quy after a super and memorable evening.
All the Best,
John
Walked, pottered, read and packed through the day. Collected at 7pm by Tuan as arranged for meal prepared by Quy at their home. Wow, it was even more delicious than the previous evening's restaurant meal. The spring rolls dipped in sauce were exquisite. 4 0r 5 courses with sticky white rice, all so tasty it was like being in heaven. Had to stop when I got full up again. brilliant.
Before the meal, Tuan took me to meet the neighbours the other side. Met the mother and daughter first, the latter spoke very good english so we all chatted for some time with her and Tuan translating for her mother although it is surprising how much you can make yourself understood with signs and gesticulations. The mother, a very nice and hospitable lady, poured some rice wine for me from a jar containing green plants seemingly growing in the wine. I just felt like a glass of wine, and this was very tasty but nearly blew my head off - it was like drinking neat whiskey. I enjoyed it very much once I realised how strong it was. We had some Thai tea afterwards which was very pleasant after the rice wine. The father joined us and I told him how much I admired his beautiful carved furniture, very striking and expensive hand carved hardwood, teak I believe. As I left he showed me a whole array of very impressive bonsai trees, plants and flowers displayed just outside their doorway. He must have worked over many years to produce these.
Back to Tuan and Quy's, more photos of them with Tao and Nung who were on the go all of the time but behaved impecably all evening.
Eventually driven back to hotel by Quy after a super and memorable evening.
All the Best,
John
Vietnam and Thailand '08 day 5
Vietnam and Thailand day 5
A wandering about day. Walked around old part of city, you really get a feel for a place by just wandering around the busy streets where people live and work and sell from their shops and stalls and walk by or cycle/moped by. Record number on a moped still 5, keep looking for a six.
I broke one of my rules today. When people try to start a conversation with me in the street, I smile (as they always do here), say hello and answer politely their question which is usually 'where do you come from' and keep walking, saying no thank you if they are trying to sell something or get you into their tuc tuc (open taxi). Anyway, today a moped carrying a man and a woman stopped a few meters in front of me and the man said hello, where do you come from and I responded as above and walked on past them. They drove on but stopped again 20m ahead of me. This time the man told me that he was a teacher of english and his wife (on the moped with him) had told him to stop again and invite me back to their home. He also told me that his wife was a cook (before they had their 2 children) so I thought it might be worth a chance so said OK so she got off the moped and walked home while I got on and he drove me to their house (not far). Well they turned out to be extremely nice people, Tuan the teacher and Quy the cook, interesting to talk to and very hospitable. Their house is right next door to Huy's mother's and her sister must be nearby because her little daughter appeared while I was there, got some great photos of her with Auntie Quy. Tuan and Quy's children got home from child-minders soon after, Tao (boy, 4) and Nung? (girl 21 months) both very quick, bright, active and well-behaved.
Taken to meet Quy's mother who was in the Pagoda 2 doors up. Wow - there was a buddhist ceremony underway, 4 musicians/singers making really good music, 8 or so dancers in full brightly coloured traditional costume and maybe 15 watching including mother. She was very welcoming, took me into the ceremony room and showed me where to sit. Entrancing. Back to Tuang and Huy's house, more tea vietnamese style, more chating and photos.
Then they asked me to join then for dinner in their house that evening. I had to say I couldn't because I had already arranged to meet a couple from north California, Tom and Linda, so Tuan said he would take us all to a REAL vietnamese restaurant in the old city where Quy said the food is very good and as a cook, she knew. Took a chance and said yes and hoped it would be OK with Tom and Linda.
Phoned Linda as soon as I got back to hotel, and fortunately they were totally up for it.
Collected at 7 by Tuan, Quy, Tao and Quy's 16 year old brother (Nung too tired) in taxi and 7 of us driven
via maze of back streets some not much wider than the taxi to restaurant which was very clean and very basic, really just tables and chairs in a covered area.
We were asked soon after we arrived 'do we like chicken' and of course we all said yes. Shortly after this we heard a frantic squawking followed by silence. It was nice to know that our chicken would be fresh.
When the food started to arrive, Quy insisted on being 'mother', dishing out the soup, the rice, then the succession of dishes - strips of green vegetables, fried pork, squid, noodles, and of course, chicken. Well it wasn't just delicious, it was super delicious. Linda found a small round purple piece of the chicken in her bowl, Tuan had one too, kidneys perhaps, but no, after Quy almost fell off her chair laughing, she eventually managed to explain to us that it was a boy chicken. Linda politely declined to eat hers. Tom and Linda were full before me so got some of their portions. It was so good I could have kept going all evening but unfortunately started to get full myself too. A real taste of Hue people, culture and food, a wonderful evening enjoyed by all to complete an exceptional day.
Tuan and Quy invited me back for a meal in their house the next evening so I said yes please. (Tom and Linda flying out next morning, I'm scheduled to fly to Bangkok day after tomorrow, so only one more full day for me in Hue)
Glad I broke my rule.
Bestest to all,
John
A wandering about day. Walked around old part of city, you really get a feel for a place by just wandering around the busy streets where people live and work and sell from their shops and stalls and walk by or cycle/moped by. Record number on a moped still 5, keep looking for a six.
I broke one of my rules today. When people try to start a conversation with me in the street, I smile (as they always do here), say hello and answer politely their question which is usually 'where do you come from' and keep walking, saying no thank you if they are trying to sell something or get you into their tuc tuc (open taxi). Anyway, today a moped carrying a man and a woman stopped a few meters in front of me and the man said hello, where do you come from and I responded as above and walked on past them. They drove on but stopped again 20m ahead of me. This time the man told me that he was a teacher of english and his wife (on the moped with him) had told him to stop again and invite me back to their home. He also told me that his wife was a cook (before they had their 2 children) so I thought it might be worth a chance so said OK so she got off the moped and walked home while I got on and he drove me to their house (not far). Well they turned out to be extremely nice people, Tuan the teacher and Quy the cook, interesting to talk to and very hospitable. Their house is right next door to Huy's mother's and her sister must be nearby because her little daughter appeared while I was there, got some great photos of her with Auntie Quy. Tuan and Quy's children got home from child-minders soon after, Tao (boy, 4) and Nung? (girl 21 months) both very quick, bright, active and well-behaved.
Taken to meet Quy's mother who was in the Pagoda 2 doors up. Wow - there was a buddhist ceremony underway, 4 musicians/singers making really good music, 8 or so dancers in full brightly coloured traditional costume and maybe 15 watching including mother. She was very welcoming, took me into the ceremony room and showed me where to sit. Entrancing. Back to Tuang and Huy's house, more tea vietnamese style, more chating and photos.
Then they asked me to join then for dinner in their house that evening. I had to say I couldn't because I had already arranged to meet a couple from north California, Tom and Linda, so Tuan said he would take us all to a REAL vietnamese restaurant in the old city where Quy said the food is very good and as a cook, she knew. Took a chance and said yes and hoped it would be OK with Tom and Linda.
Phoned Linda as soon as I got back to hotel, and fortunately they were totally up for it.
Collected at 7 by Tuan, Quy, Tao and Quy's 16 year old brother (Nung too tired) in taxi and 7 of us driven
via maze of back streets some not much wider than the taxi to restaurant which was very clean and very basic, really just tables and chairs in a covered area.
We were asked soon after we arrived 'do we like chicken' and of course we all said yes. Shortly after this we heard a frantic squawking followed by silence. It was nice to know that our chicken would be fresh.
When the food started to arrive, Quy insisted on being 'mother', dishing out the soup, the rice, then the succession of dishes - strips of green vegetables, fried pork, squid, noodles, and of course, chicken. Well it wasn't just delicious, it was super delicious. Linda found a small round purple piece of the chicken in her bowl, Tuan had one too, kidneys perhaps, but no, after Quy almost fell off her chair laughing, she eventually managed to explain to us that it was a boy chicken. Linda politely declined to eat hers. Tom and Linda were full before me so got some of their portions. It was so good I could have kept going all evening but unfortunately started to get full myself too. A real taste of Hue people, culture and food, a wonderful evening enjoyed by all to complete an exceptional day.
Tuan and Quy invited me back for a meal in their house the next evening so I said yes please. (Tom and Linda flying out next morning, I'm scheduled to fly to Bangkok day after tomorrow, so only one more full day for me in Hue)
Glad I broke my rule.
Bestest to all,
John
Friday, February 22, 2008
Vietnam and Thailand '08 day 4
Vietnam and Thailand '08 day 4
Took a day tour of the city, 20 of us + 3 driver/guides in a minibus. They have fold up seats in the aisle. Visited the Garden House, a Mandarins private residence built for him by the Emperor. Got a fellow tourist to take a photo of me shaking the hand of the Mandarins Grandson, now 78. Next to Tu Ducs tomb, very impressive, then to the An Phouc Restaurant for lunch - soup followed by a selection of meats and vegetables presented on separate plates for you to take which you want with your boiled rice I tried them all, a delicious meal. I sat with a couple from the Blue Mountains behind Sydney, a couple from Kiev (U kraine) and an Indian lady from Surrey, all very pleasant to chat with. Next to the Palace and tomb of Emperor Khai Dinh, an early 20th century King of the Nguyen Dynasty controlled by the french. Then to P & T of E Minh Mang a long raining early 19th century 2nd king of the Dynasty who, our guide informed us, pushed the country into great advances in agriculture. Next the Pagoda in honour of the Heavenly Lady. In Vietnam, 70% of the population are Buddhists who worship dead kings and heros in Temples and Tombs and Buddha in Pagodas. (They have 3 Buddhas, past present and future). From this Pagoda, in 1963, former Monk Thich Quang Duc drove to Saigon (now Ho Chi Minh City) and set himself on fire to protest against the South Vietnamese regimes treatment of Buddhists. The whole world saw it on television. TQD is now revered for turning the tide against Buddhism in the South. He was burnt to a cinder but his heart was undamaged so they have got that on show somewhere. Back to the Pagoda, I was fascinated to watch and listen to 30 monks chanting and singing in front of their Buddha. Aged about 8 to 30, they wore robes of different colours and haircuts according to their seniority. I was quite entranced and almost late for the last bit of the tour, a boat trip up the river. This was slightly more exciting than a bus ride up the M4. And that was the end of the tour which actually was very good. The chief guide was a university graduate in english language so spoke it quite well but with a strong accent. The Vietnamese I suspect are taught english by other Vietnamese, a bit like the french learning english from Inspector Clouseau. They pronounce the words as they would in their own language. Fair enough and by listening carefully you can follow most of it quite well. It is more difficult for other nationalities however, who often have to accept the double whammy of having a guide speaking foreign language (english) being spoken with a strong local accent. I remember my Danish friends on last years tour having some difficulty. Just been introduced to Peter sitting next to me in the Internet shop. He is dutch and lives in Thailand working as a tour guide for groups from the Netherlands.
Sorry, have I droned on?
Best wishes to everyone,
John
Took a day tour of the city, 20 of us + 3 driver/guides in a minibus. They have fold up seats in the aisle. Visited the Garden House, a Mandarins private residence built for him by the Emperor. Got a fellow tourist to take a photo of me shaking the hand of the Mandarins Grandson, now 78. Next to Tu Ducs tomb, very impressive, then to the An Phouc Restaurant for lunch - soup followed by a selection of meats and vegetables presented on separate plates for you to take which you want with your boiled rice I tried them all, a delicious meal. I sat with a couple from the Blue Mountains behind Sydney, a couple from Kiev (U kraine) and an Indian lady from Surrey, all very pleasant to chat with. Next to the Palace and tomb of Emperor Khai Dinh, an early 20th century King of the Nguyen Dynasty controlled by the french. Then to P & T of E Minh Mang a long raining early 19th century 2nd king of the Dynasty who, our guide informed us, pushed the country into great advances in agriculture. Next the Pagoda in honour of the Heavenly Lady. In Vietnam, 70% of the population are Buddhists who worship dead kings and heros in Temples and Tombs and Buddha in Pagodas. (They have 3 Buddhas, past present and future). From this Pagoda, in 1963, former Monk Thich Quang Duc drove to Saigon (now Ho Chi Minh City) and set himself on fire to protest against the South Vietnamese regimes treatment of Buddhists. The whole world saw it on television. TQD is now revered for turning the tide against Buddhism in the South. He was burnt to a cinder but his heart was undamaged so they have got that on show somewhere. Back to the Pagoda, I was fascinated to watch and listen to 30 monks chanting and singing in front of their Buddha. Aged about 8 to 30, they wore robes of different colours and haircuts according to their seniority. I was quite entranced and almost late for the last bit of the tour, a boat trip up the river. This was slightly more exciting than a bus ride up the M4. And that was the end of the tour which actually was very good. The chief guide was a university graduate in english language so spoke it quite well but with a strong accent. The Vietnamese I suspect are taught english by other Vietnamese, a bit like the french learning english from Inspector Clouseau. They pronounce the words as they would in their own language. Fair enough and by listening carefully you can follow most of it quite well. It is more difficult for other nationalities however, who often have to accept the double whammy of having a guide speaking foreign language (english) being spoken with a strong local accent. I remember my Danish friends on last years tour having some difficulty. Just been introduced to Peter sitting next to me in the Internet shop. He is dutch and lives in Thailand working as a tour guide for groups from the Netherlands.
Sorry, have I droned on?
Best wishes to everyone,
John
Thursday, February 21, 2008
Vietnam and Thailand '08 day 3
Vietnam and Thailand '08 day 3
Quieter day today, had a good look around Ho Chi Minh museum, which covered his life from early days at school and as a student near and in Hue, through his struggle for independance from the french achieved in 1949 and the unification of Vietnam in 1969. He died in 1969. Known as Uncle Ho, he is revered throughout the country.
Next did the whole riverside walk on the south bank followed by an early evening meal at Bloom Restaurant. This is staffed by students in support of an organisation called 'Aid to Children Without Parents Inc'. Very clean and smart, excellent food and service, friendly as it seems everywhere/one is in Vietnam, I think I'll be coming back here.
Traffic lights in Vietnam have a digital display of how many seconds remain before lights change, red reducing seconds when on stop, green when on go. What a good idea I thought. Quite a few moped riders ignore red lights of course, especially when turning right. As previously reported, the rules of the road appear to be optional. The fact that they drive on the right does not mean that nobody drives on the left. There are very few cars in Hue so it is mostly mopeds and bicycles and they have developed great skills in avoiding collisions with other mopeds, cars, bikes, wandering english pensioners, etc.. Crossing the road is exhillerating stuff.
A very pleasant day.
If we could all be as happy as people are here, the world would be a better place. It's a really nice place to be.
So best wishes for happiness to everyone,
John
Quieter day today, had a good look around Ho Chi Minh museum, which covered his life from early days at school and as a student near and in Hue, through his struggle for independance from the french achieved in 1949 and the unification of Vietnam in 1969. He died in 1969. Known as Uncle Ho, he is revered throughout the country.
Next did the whole riverside walk on the south bank followed by an early evening meal at Bloom Restaurant. This is staffed by students in support of an organisation called 'Aid to Children Without Parents Inc'. Very clean and smart, excellent food and service, friendly as it seems everywhere/one is in Vietnam, I think I'll be coming back here.
Traffic lights in Vietnam have a digital display of how many seconds remain before lights change, red reducing seconds when on stop, green when on go. What a good idea I thought. Quite a few moped riders ignore red lights of course, especially when turning right. As previously reported, the rules of the road appear to be optional. The fact that they drive on the right does not mean that nobody drives on the left. There are very few cars in Hue so it is mostly mopeds and bicycles and they have developed great skills in avoiding collisions with other mopeds, cars, bikes, wandering english pensioners, etc.. Crossing the road is exhillerating stuff.
A very pleasant day.
If we could all be as happy as people are here, the world would be a better place. It's a really nice place to be.
So best wishes for happiness to everyone,
John
Wednesday, February 20, 2008
Vietnam and Thailand '08 day 2
Vietnam and Thailand '08 day 2
Walked to the market today, it's 1/4 mile long x about 100m, some outside, some covered including a 2 storey building similar to the one in Ha Noi. Stalls packed together and piled high with everything you can think of. Very narrow passageways between stalls, packed with local people, very few westerners. All very friendly, bought a Hue teeshirt,water, milk powder, (can't find liquid milk) washing powder. Who needs supermarkets, haven't seen one here yet. Even away from the market it's just small specialist shops everywhere. All very friendly but they will sell you the entire contents of the stall if you let them. Really enjoyed soaking up the atmosphere/bustle/culture of this place. One interesting observation: despite wet mucky roadways and paths, dirty buildings due to the pollution and mopeds roaring around everywhere kicking up spray, everyone is very smart and cleanly dressed, especially the ladies. How do they get their clothes so clean? certainly not in the river although I have seen some people doing washing in it but it's very dirty water. They must be using the laundries which are numerous here, not coin operated but people who take in washing.
After the market, walked through a large north-riverside park with raised beds all nicely planted out. It had obviously not fully recovered from the recent flooding though, with many paths still covered in mud left when the water subsided. The city is divided by the Perfume River, so-called after some sweet smelling flowering plants found up-river. The river is very wide and flows not much below the surrounding flat land on which the city is built. London and Hue have the same motivation for combatting global warming.
Ate in the hotel restaurant, an excellent viet meal, followed by early night!
Hope everyone fit and well,
John
Walked to the market today, it's 1/4 mile long x about 100m, some outside, some covered including a 2 storey building similar to the one in Ha Noi. Stalls packed together and piled high with everything you can think of. Very narrow passageways between stalls, packed with local people, very few westerners. All very friendly, bought a Hue teeshirt,water, milk powder, (can't find liquid milk) washing powder. Who needs supermarkets, haven't seen one here yet. Even away from the market it's just small specialist shops everywhere. All very friendly but they will sell you the entire contents of the stall if you let them. Really enjoyed soaking up the atmosphere/bustle/culture of this place. One interesting observation: despite wet mucky roadways and paths, dirty buildings due to the pollution and mopeds roaring around everywhere kicking up spray, everyone is very smart and cleanly dressed, especially the ladies. How do they get their clothes so clean? certainly not in the river although I have seen some people doing washing in it but it's very dirty water. They must be using the laundries which are numerous here, not coin operated but people who take in washing.
After the market, walked through a large north-riverside park with raised beds all nicely planted out. It had obviously not fully recovered from the recent flooding though, with many paths still covered in mud left when the water subsided. The city is divided by the Perfume River, so-called after some sweet smelling flowering plants found up-river. The river is very wide and flows not much below the surrounding flat land on which the city is built. London and Hue have the same motivation for combatting global warming.
Ate in the hotel restaurant, an excellent viet meal, followed by early night!
Hope everyone fit and well,
John
Tuesday, February 19, 2008
VIETNAM'08 DAY 1
VIETNAM '08 DAY 1
Well here I am on the blog again. 3 flights via Bangkok and Ho Chi Minh City to Hue in mid-Vietnam, all went to plan. Thai Airways excellent, especially the meals. Festival Hotel in Hue friendly and helpful, comfortable room good shower. Weather cool (unusually very cold for them, 10 degrees) and overcast, 10 days rain stopped when I arrived. No flooding though, rivers are at normal level. Hue is the old capital of Vietnam and was badly flooded last year when I came with the group.
Excellent first day spent walking around 'The Citadel' (25 mins walk from hotel). It is about 1km sq. and contains The Imperial City which itself includes the Forbidden Purple City, the king's residence where no man other than the Enperor was allowed. Only him and his dozens of wives, any other man who entered was risking a terrible fate. A bit like Dorothy Perkins. It was all built by successive Nguyen Emperors from early 19th century. The Citadel contains many buildingsand walkways including Thai Hoa Palace (The Palace of Supreme Harmony) (1805). Here were held bi-monthly grand audiences and ceremonies of the Nguyen Court presided over by the Emperor sitting on the Throne escorted by male members of the Royal family. The Manderins stood in lines facing the Palace according to rank. Soldiers on the right, acedemics on the left, this we were told coincides with the two sides of our brain and their functions. The women had to stay at home and do the washing and ironing. Many other impressive structures remain including the massive Noon Gate and the To Temple which has a line of alters each for worshipping a departed King of the Nguyen Dynasty.
Many buildings were destroyed by the japanese and americans but quite a few still stand and others are being restored. The Duyet Thai Royal Theatre (1826) was designed for the performing of Classical Operas and Royal Arts (music, singing, dancing, plays). It still holds live performances, with which if you pay a bit extra, you can have a pasty and cup of .tea. There were 10 musicians playing various traditional vietnamese instruments, 4 actors in a very expressive play and 16 dancers/singers. Also 2 unicorns that looked like panto dragons (one in the front/head and one in the back like a panto horse) who danced around frantically, mated and produced a baby unicorn/dragon who dropped out of the back of one of the dragons and proceeded to dance also. The pasty was a bit dry but the tea was very nice.
After the Royal Arts performance, I walked what seemed miles around the grounds, buildings and remains of buildings. One elegant structure was the Throne Room where the Emperor received important guests. A side room contained an exhibition of beautiful and striking modern paintings by the artist Hoang Thanh Phong. Now 29, he was there and was very interesting to talk to. While subsequently I was looking through his book of paintings, he secretly sketched my portrait - I will show you when I get back to UK. He said I look like Uncle Ho (Chi Minh), a real compliment in Vietnam. I offered to pay but he declined saying it was a souvenier.
There are lots of lakes and moats, some with hundreds of lotus flowers floating on the surface - beautiful. The whole thing is an astonishing monument to Vietnamese culture, architecture and history, with much beauty and many impressive structures and artifacts remaining, but also much sadness at what has been destroyed.
A great start to this holiday.
All the Best,
John
Well here I am on the blog again. 3 flights via Bangkok and Ho Chi Minh City to Hue in mid-Vietnam, all went to plan. Thai Airways excellent, especially the meals. Festival Hotel in Hue friendly and helpful, comfortable room good shower. Weather cool (unusually very cold for them, 10 degrees) and overcast, 10 days rain stopped when I arrived. No flooding though, rivers are at normal level. Hue is the old capital of Vietnam and was badly flooded last year when I came with the group.
Excellent first day spent walking around 'The Citadel' (25 mins walk from hotel). It is about 1km sq. and contains The Imperial City which itself includes the Forbidden Purple City, the king's residence where no man other than the Enperor was allowed. Only him and his dozens of wives, any other man who entered was risking a terrible fate. A bit like Dorothy Perkins. It was all built by successive Nguyen Emperors from early 19th century. The Citadel contains many buildingsand walkways including Thai Hoa Palace (The Palace of Supreme Harmony) (1805). Here were held bi-monthly grand audiences and ceremonies of the Nguyen Court presided over by the Emperor sitting on the Throne escorted by male members of the Royal family. The Manderins stood in lines facing the Palace according to rank. Soldiers on the right, acedemics on the left, this we were told coincides with the two sides of our brain and their functions. The women had to stay at home and do the washing and ironing. Many other impressive structures remain including the massive Noon Gate and the To Temple which has a line of alters each for worshipping a departed King of the Nguyen Dynasty.
Many buildings were destroyed by the japanese and americans but quite a few still stand and others are being restored. The Duyet Thai Royal Theatre (1826) was designed for the performing of Classical Operas and Royal Arts (music, singing, dancing, plays). It still holds live performances, with which if you pay a bit extra, you can have a pasty and cup of .tea. There were 10 musicians playing various traditional vietnamese instruments, 4 actors in a very expressive play and 16 dancers/singers. Also 2 unicorns that looked like panto dragons (one in the front/head and one in the back like a panto horse) who danced around frantically, mated and produced a baby unicorn/dragon who dropped out of the back of one of the dragons and proceeded to dance also. The pasty was a bit dry but the tea was very nice.
After the Royal Arts performance, I walked what seemed miles around the grounds, buildings and remains of buildings. One elegant structure was the Throne Room where the Emperor received important guests. A side room contained an exhibition of beautiful and striking modern paintings by the artist Hoang Thanh Phong. Now 29, he was there and was very interesting to talk to. While subsequently I was looking through his book of paintings, he secretly sketched my portrait - I will show you when I get back to UK. He said I look like Uncle Ho (Chi Minh), a real compliment in Vietnam. I offered to pay but he declined saying it was a souvenier.
There are lots of lakes and moats, some with hundreds of lotus flowers floating on the surface - beautiful. The whole thing is an astonishing monument to Vietnamese culture, architecture and history, with much beauty and many impressive structures and artifacts remaining, but also much sadness at what has been destroyed.
A great start to this holiday.
All the Best,
John
Tuesday, January 29, 2008
Bovingdon - 29 Jan '08
Bovingdon 29 Jan '08
3 weeks in Tenerife very relaxing, especially enjoyed last week with Peter, Glenys and Angela.
Off to Vietnam again 12 Feb. to re-visit Hue to see this old former capital city and sites missed due to floods last year. Then to Bangkok and North Thailand for temples and culture followed by more sun in Phuket. More postings from 12 Feb.
All the Best,
John
3 weeks in Tenerife very relaxing, especially enjoyed last week with Peter, Glenys and Angela.
Off to Vietnam again 12 Feb. to re-visit Hue to see this old former capital city and sites missed due to floods last year. Then to Bangkok and North Thailand for temples and culture followed by more sun in Phuket. More postings from 12 Feb.
All the Best,
John
Wednesday, December 05, 2007
Wed 5 December 2007
Wed 5 December 2007 is the king's 80th birthday. The whole of Thailand is celebrating, everyone wearing yellow which is a mark of respect to the King, fireworks everywhere including here in Karon, Phuket, all the teles showing the official ceremonies; they are very proud of their King. He is the longest serving monarch in the world, having had his 60th aniversary last year. He must have been 19 when he became King in 1946. (Elizabeth 2nd became Queen in 1952).
Only 4 full days and a bit of Monday left here, flying out Mon evening, arrive Heathrow Tuesday sometime. I believe UK is 7 hours behind Thailand. Weather has been mostly sunny all the time, just a bit of cloud here and there, plus two short sharp showers.
Do you like the photos? I still plan to add comments to them soon.
All the Best,
John
Only 4 full days and a bit of Monday left here, flying out Mon evening, arrive Heathrow Tuesday sometime. I believe UK is 7 hours behind Thailand. Weather has been mostly sunny all the time, just a bit of cloud here and there, plus two short sharp showers.
Do you like the photos? I still plan to add comments to them soon.
All the Best,
John
Friday, November 30, 2007
After 1 week in Phuket
HelloAll
After 1 week in Phuket, I am exhausted. I have to get up early, certainly before 9, to put a towel on a sun bed, if I'm too late they're all gone. The receptionist was amazed when I asked her if it's OK to put towells on beds, it's the norm here 'no rules' she said, it's certainly not allowed in some places.Breakfast is most enjoyable of course, then onto the computer for e-mails/blog then a bit of shopping all before I can finally relax by the pool (now on my third book). In the evening I have to walk at least half a mile to the Elephant Restaurant but it's worth it for the excellent meal and the friendly waitresses.
Hopefully you like the photos I've managed to post with much help from swedish Linda. Have to put them on one at a time because they haven't got the necessary software to put up a whole file.
My next job is to try to post the other 25 or so.
All the Best,
John
After 1 week in Phuket, I am exhausted. I have to get up early, certainly before 9, to put a towel on a sun bed, if I'm too late they're all gone. The receptionist was amazed when I asked her if it's OK to put towells on beds, it's the norm here 'no rules' she said, it's certainly not allowed in some places.Breakfast is most enjoyable of course, then onto the computer for e-mails/blog then a bit of shopping all before I can finally relax by the pool (now on my third book). In the evening I have to walk at least half a mile to the Elephant Restaurant but it's worth it for the excellent meal and the friendly waitresses.
Hopefully you like the photos I've managed to post with much help from swedish Linda. Have to put them on one at a time because they haven't got the necessary software to put up a whole file.
My next job is to try to post the other 25 or so.
All the Best,
John
Thursday, November 29, 2007
Wednesday, November 28, 2007
Wed 28 Nov Phuket
Wed Nov 28 Centara Karon Resort Hotel, Phuket
Well this is very nice. Spacious apartment, 3 pools, water very clean, plenty of poolside loungers, hot and sunny (acclimatising myself very slowly, lots of sun protection, limited hours of exposure, hence not burnt as some others have). Best of all, breakfast is included, buffet help yourself style, so after 7 course breakfast I'm well set up for the day and usually last through til evening meal with maybe just a snack at lunchtime. Drinking lots of water, all bottled of course. The water coming out of the taps in the bathroom is yellow, taking a shower is a bit like standing under a urinating elephant. but I think it's just fine sand getting through the filters.
First evening here was one of their annual festivals that involved selling huge cylindrical lanterns (600mm high?) to locals and tourists alike, taking them down to the beach, lighting a slow burning wick at the bottom causing the heat to make them rise into the night skies - hundreds, no thousands of them, floating burning lanterns, near and far, filling the night skies, quite a sight.
The town of Karon is highly commercialised for tourists with lots of westernised restaurants but I have found one called the Elephant Restaurant which emphasises its thai food and serves up excellent food, generous portions, every time. They don't speak much english but I have been there all 4 evenings so far, had different meals (all thai, i've not had a western meal since leaving UK), I'm a regular already, as are others i've noticed.
Not much wildlife here, noisy cheeky minah birds, a snake slithering accross the path in front of me, a frog and a few scotsmen.
Walked the length of the beach yesterday, probably 3k, and back. Golden sand, shelves steeply, big waves, sea temp. 30 degrees plus, great fun.
Haven't booked any day excursions yet, they all involve long bus or boat rides, it's too hot and I'm far from acclimatised yet. Half way through second book already. Trying not to overdo it.
Hope to get some of the Vietnam and Cambodia pictures on blog and facebook tomorrow. A nice lady called Lyn says she will help me.
Take care everyone,
John
Well this is very nice. Spacious apartment, 3 pools, water very clean, plenty of poolside loungers, hot and sunny (acclimatising myself very slowly, lots of sun protection, limited hours of exposure, hence not burnt as some others have). Best of all, breakfast is included, buffet help yourself style, so after 7 course breakfast I'm well set up for the day and usually last through til evening meal with maybe just a snack at lunchtime. Drinking lots of water, all bottled of course. The water coming out of the taps in the bathroom is yellow, taking a shower is a bit like standing under a urinating elephant. but I think it's just fine sand getting through the filters.
First evening here was one of their annual festivals that involved selling huge cylindrical lanterns (600mm high?) to locals and tourists alike, taking them down to the beach, lighting a slow burning wick at the bottom causing the heat to make them rise into the night skies - hundreds, no thousands of them, floating burning lanterns, near and far, filling the night skies, quite a sight.
The town of Karon is highly commercialised for tourists with lots of westernised restaurants but I have found one called the Elephant Restaurant which emphasises its thai food and serves up excellent food, generous portions, every time. They don't speak much english but I have been there all 4 evenings so far, had different meals (all thai, i've not had a western meal since leaving UK), I'm a regular already, as are others i've noticed.
Not much wildlife here, noisy cheeky minah birds, a snake slithering accross the path in front of me, a frog and a few scotsmen.
Walked the length of the beach yesterday, probably 3k, and back. Golden sand, shelves steeply, big waves, sea temp. 30 degrees plus, great fun.
Haven't booked any day excursions yet, they all involve long bus or boat rides, it's too hot and I'm far from acclimatised yet. Half way through second book already. Trying not to overdo it.
Hope to get some of the Vietnam and Cambodia pictures on blog and facebook tomorrow. A nice lady called Lyn says she will help me.
Take care everyone,
John
Saturday, November 24, 2007
Friday 23 Nov 07
Friday 23 Nov 07
Huan took us to Kou Len restaurant Thursday evening. Buffet as much as you like, Thai food, local beer, all excellent. Huge room like a warehouse, with a stage on which we were entertained by (mostly) girls dressed in brilliantly coloured costumes absara dancing. This is the very specialist siamese type dancing with hands bent backwards at 90 degrees, head from side to side, slow movements with much balancing on one leg. Must take a lot of practice I tried some of the moves but fell over.
So this was our last night as a group. I got up to join Annie for breakfast at 6 as she was the first due to leave at 6.40. Next was David and Joanne at 7.30. I had more time so took the opportunity to walk down to the river again, even more activity preparing for dragon boat racing due to start at 2.30pm. Villagers had set up campsites along the river using tarpaulins strung across trees and poles. Street vendors were everywhere selling fruit, toys, pop-rice, everything; also local music (sounding indian to me) blaring out of speakers, lots of smiling hellos from passing locals, very few westerners, a really happy festival atmosphere.
I like Siem Reap.
Left hotel 10.40am, flights all went to plan, arrived Phuket hotel 9.30pm after slight delay in transfer from airport. More on Phuket next blog.
All the Best,
John
Huan took us to Kou Len restaurant Thursday evening. Buffet as much as you like, Thai food, local beer, all excellent. Huge room like a warehouse, with a stage on which we were entertained by (mostly) girls dressed in brilliantly coloured costumes absara dancing. This is the very specialist siamese type dancing with hands bent backwards at 90 degrees, head from side to side, slow movements with much balancing on one leg. Must take a lot of practice I tried some of the moves but fell over.
So this was our last night as a group. I got up to join Annie for breakfast at 6 as she was the first due to leave at 6.40. Next was David and Joanne at 7.30. I had more time so took the opportunity to walk down to the river again, even more activity preparing for dragon boat racing due to start at 2.30pm. Villagers had set up campsites along the river using tarpaulins strung across trees and poles. Street vendors were everywhere selling fruit, toys, pop-rice, everything; also local music (sounding indian to me) blaring out of speakers, lots of smiling hellos from passing locals, very few westerners, a really happy festival atmosphere.
I like Siem Reap.
Left hotel 10.40am, flights all went to plan, arrived Phuket hotel 9.30pm after slight delay in transfer from airport. More on Phuket next blog.
All the Best,
John
Thursday, November 22, 2007
Thurs 22 Nov 5.30pm Siem Reap internet cafe
Thurs 22 Nov 5.30pm Siem Reap internet cafe
Last night 5 of us at Kymer Kitchen restaurant each ordered a course then we shared them out so that we all had a bit of each. I enjoyed my choice, Khymer pork with cashew nuts and vegs but forgot that David likes hot chilli dishes so his innocuous looking fish something blew my head off.
Back in hotel, finished Joannes book Kite Runner, a story about Afghanistan, very deep but a good read. Then dead to the world til alarm.
Fried eggs for breakfast, the cook does them to order, broke one of mine and before I could say anything it was in the bin had to wait for another two. Toaster very dangerous, you have too make your own toast, stood well back, it doesn't like me.
3 more temples and a lake this morning. The first visit was to Preah Ko built over 5 years to 879 by King Sinbravarman ie nearly 2 hundred years before the french invaded us and put that William 1st on our throne. It was pretty beaten up (Preah Ko not Williams throne) but there was still plenty to see and admire. The second was Bakong finished in 881 by the same guy. This one was mountain shape with 5 levels. Approached by a causeway, it was incredably impressive. A single monk lives here and ministers to the local community. I think it must have been him chanting Ãnto a microphone and speaker system throughout our visit, creating a feeling of peace and wellbeing that I think affected all of us in this beautiful place.
The third was Lo Lei built by King Yasovaraman 1st. (I like that name, Yaso for short?). This was very much a living community with 14? monks and modern pagodas to which locals come to be blessed with good luck by the monks.
Then to the lake, the largest in Indo-china. Our 2 boatmen were about 14 and 16 both driving and manouvering this 10 seat craft no trouble. Regularly attacked by smaller craft using seamanship and tactics that Nelson would have applauded, we were boarded time after time by six/eight year olds, usually girls, from fast craft being driven by their mother. Coca colas, fantas, sprits, anything we could have wanted. Then mum would pull alongside again for the little mite to leap back and race off to the next unsuspecting tourist boat.
The lake is famous for its floating villages, we visitd two, the first Cambodian, the second Vietnamese. Another on the far side was Cham. They had floating homes, floating schools, floating shops, and a floating fish farm that contained hundreds of catfish in one hold and dozens of crocadiles in another. Then another attack this time by a boat containing a family, the smallest child of which ( a 4? year old girl) produced out of a cage and held up a metre long snake. Presumably the idea was that we could hold it and take photographs but unluckily the little girl was right next to Jorgann when she lifted up the snake. Jorgann doesn't like snakes. It was the fastest I've seen him move in all the 3 weeks we have been travelling together. So we decided not to have the snake on board and moved away with some haste. The two young boatmen who of course have seen the snake many times thought it very funny.
Back to the hotel after the lake and said bye-bye to our Siem Reap guide. The lake had been our last organised visit. After lunch, we all walked along the Mekong River in Siem Reap to the old market where Annie bought her Buddah and I bought a t shirt and 3 elephants.
Then back along the river where frenetic preparations and practices were going on for the Dragon Boat Festival which starts tomorrow for 3 days. With a very long boat from every village and district, there were hundreds of people, rowers, supporters and locals just out to enjoy the build up to the racing. I stayed long after the others returned to the hotel, and chatted or exchanged hellos with many of the locals enjoying the atmosphere like me, including cambodian (indian like) music blaring out from loud speakers. A lot of Cambodians, especially the younger ones, speak quite passable english. A most pleasant and stimulating afternoon.
Our final meal together will be this evening, Huann promises music and dancing for our entertainment, should be good, I will report next time. Flight to Bankok, = transition to Phuket, departs 1.25pm tomorrow. David and Joanne staying in Bankok for 5? days, Jorgann and Bierta also going to another part of Phuket so will be on the same flights, poor Annie will spend 2 days getting back to Quebec and work via 5 flights and has to leave the hotel at 6.40 am. We have all exchanged e-mails so hope we will keep in touch. We certainly plan to post dvds with our photos to each other. Better than e-mailing apparently.
All the Best of Everything to Everybody,
John
Last night 5 of us at Kymer Kitchen restaurant each ordered a course then we shared them out so that we all had a bit of each. I enjoyed my choice, Khymer pork with cashew nuts and vegs but forgot that David likes hot chilli dishes so his innocuous looking fish something blew my head off.
Back in hotel, finished Joannes book Kite Runner, a story about Afghanistan, very deep but a good read. Then dead to the world til alarm.
Fried eggs for breakfast, the cook does them to order, broke one of mine and before I could say anything it was in the bin had to wait for another two. Toaster very dangerous, you have too make your own toast, stood well back, it doesn't like me.
3 more temples and a lake this morning. The first visit was to Preah Ko built over 5 years to 879 by King Sinbravarman ie nearly 2 hundred years before the french invaded us and put that William 1st on our throne. It was pretty beaten up (Preah Ko not Williams throne) but there was still plenty to see and admire. The second was Bakong finished in 881 by the same guy. This one was mountain shape with 5 levels. Approached by a causeway, it was incredably impressive. A single monk lives here and ministers to the local community. I think it must have been him chanting Ãnto a microphone and speaker system throughout our visit, creating a feeling of peace and wellbeing that I think affected all of us in this beautiful place.
The third was Lo Lei built by King Yasovaraman 1st. (I like that name, Yaso for short?). This was very much a living community with 14? monks and modern pagodas to which locals come to be blessed with good luck by the monks.
Then to the lake, the largest in Indo-china. Our 2 boatmen were about 14 and 16 both driving and manouvering this 10 seat craft no trouble. Regularly attacked by smaller craft using seamanship and tactics that Nelson would have applauded, we were boarded time after time by six/eight year olds, usually girls, from fast craft being driven by their mother. Coca colas, fantas, sprits, anything we could have wanted. Then mum would pull alongside again for the little mite to leap back and race off to the next unsuspecting tourist boat.
The lake is famous for its floating villages, we visitd two, the first Cambodian, the second Vietnamese. Another on the far side was Cham. They had floating homes, floating schools, floating shops, and a floating fish farm that contained hundreds of catfish in one hold and dozens of crocadiles in another. Then another attack this time by a boat containing a family, the smallest child of which ( a 4? year old girl) produced out of a cage and held up a metre long snake. Presumably the idea was that we could hold it and take photographs but unluckily the little girl was right next to Jorgann when she lifted up the snake. Jorgann doesn't like snakes. It was the fastest I've seen him move in all the 3 weeks we have been travelling together. So we decided not to have the snake on board and moved away with some haste. The two young boatmen who of course have seen the snake many times thought it very funny.
Back to the hotel after the lake and said bye-bye to our Siem Reap guide. The lake had been our last organised visit. After lunch, we all walked along the Mekong River in Siem Reap to the old market where Annie bought her Buddah and I bought a t shirt and 3 elephants.
Then back along the river where frenetic preparations and practices were going on for the Dragon Boat Festival which starts tomorrow for 3 days. With a very long boat from every village and district, there were hundreds of people, rowers, supporters and locals just out to enjoy the build up to the racing. I stayed long after the others returned to the hotel, and chatted or exchanged hellos with many of the locals enjoying the atmosphere like me, including cambodian (indian like) music blaring out from loud speakers. A lot of Cambodians, especially the younger ones, speak quite passable english. A most pleasant and stimulating afternoon.
Our final meal together will be this evening, Huann promises music and dancing for our entertainment, should be good, I will report next time. Flight to Bankok, = transition to Phuket, departs 1.25pm tomorrow. David and Joanne staying in Bankok for 5? days, Jorgann and Bierta also going to another part of Phuket so will be on the same flights, poor Annie will spend 2 days getting back to Quebec and work via 5 flights and has to leave the hotel at 6.40 am. We have all exchanged e-mails so hope we will keep in touch. We certainly plan to post dvds with our photos to each other. Better than e-mailing apparently.
All the Best of Everything to Everybody,
John
Wednesday, November 21, 2007
Wed 21 Nov 5.30pm Siem Reap, Cambodia
Wed 21 Nov 5.30pm Siem Reap, Cambodia.
On Monday evening we all went out to the 'Foreign Correspondants Club' for a drink, it was very smart, overlooking the Mekong River and busy promenade frontage. Very pleasant. Then a few yards along the road to the Frizz restaurant (opened by a dutchman to serve genuine Khymer meals because so many of the restaurants here are chinese, japanese, vietnamese, thai and even western!) for an excellent meal.
Up horribly early the next morning, yesterday, for a 6 hour drive to Siem Reap. Stopped a few times on the way, once to photograph lotus flowers in a small lake with beautiful fields and forest in the background. Checked into Casa Angkor Hotel at 1pm, met again at 2 o clock and taken to Angkor Wat bhuddist temple. Built by Jayavaraman 7th in 12 century, it covers an area 1.2 x 1.5 kilometres. Massive, incredibly impressive, i've taken photos but difficult to represent the enormity of it in a 5 x 7 picture. I tried.
During the 9th? to 13th centuries, Cambodia was several times larger than it is now and was by far the largest strongest power in Indo China. It defeated the Cham who had been very strong in what is now south Vietnam and the south of Cambodia. The chinese were allies.
During this period, the Cambodian nation built many temples and had its capital in the Angkor area which is near to Siem Reap. Angkor Watt is the largest of these temples.
After Angkot Watt, we drove to the bottom of a hill then walked up a beautiful windy path to the temple at the top from where we could watch and photograph a gorgeous sunset. It was crowded, had to climb up many very steep steps which are a feature of the design of these temples ( I dont think they had building regs then), but wow was it worth it.
Going down the crowded steps I was mainly concerned about overweight tourists behind and above me losing their footing and causing an avalanche of people crashing down to the bottom. If I'd been in the middle of it I wouldn't have been able to get a photo. When I got to the bottom I waited hopefully with my camera but no avalanche that day. It really was that steep going from a long way up.
Back down the path, the minibus and the hotel, from where walked to the Sugar Palm restaurant, very pleasant evening.
Slept like a log.
Today Wednesday, a guided tour of 3 more temples. First 2 also built by Jayavaraman 7th, first in honour of his teacher, the second for his mother. These are Bhuddist temples but the third was a 10 century Hindu temple called Bayon built by a priest in honour of women. Lots of incredibly intricate stone carving here. One of the theories was that they used the conquered Cham people for stone carving at which they were specially skilled. Fascinating designs and carvings on all of the temples, telling stories in great detail often with snatches of humour and lots of animals depicted. Got many wonderful pictures today as well as enjoying the beauty of these huge complex multi-leveled temples surrounded by jungle, tall trees and lakes.
Inputting this in an internet cafe, 50c an hour compared with 5 dollars in the hotel! But being attacked by a horde of mozzies!
Meeting at 7 to find a different local restaurant tonight.
Last full day of the guided tour tomorrow, it will have been 3 weeks! where did it go?
Take care everyone,
John
On Monday evening we all went out to the 'Foreign Correspondants Club' for a drink, it was very smart, overlooking the Mekong River and busy promenade frontage. Very pleasant. Then a few yards along the road to the Frizz restaurant (opened by a dutchman to serve genuine Khymer meals because so many of the restaurants here are chinese, japanese, vietnamese, thai and even western!) for an excellent meal.
Up horribly early the next morning, yesterday, for a 6 hour drive to Siem Reap. Stopped a few times on the way, once to photograph lotus flowers in a small lake with beautiful fields and forest in the background. Checked into Casa Angkor Hotel at 1pm, met again at 2 o clock and taken to Angkor Wat bhuddist temple. Built by Jayavaraman 7th in 12 century, it covers an area 1.2 x 1.5 kilometres. Massive, incredibly impressive, i've taken photos but difficult to represent the enormity of it in a 5 x 7 picture. I tried.
During the 9th? to 13th centuries, Cambodia was several times larger than it is now and was by far the largest strongest power in Indo China. It defeated the Cham who had been very strong in what is now south Vietnam and the south of Cambodia. The chinese were allies.
During this period, the Cambodian nation built many temples and had its capital in the Angkor area which is near to Siem Reap. Angkor Watt is the largest of these temples.
After Angkot Watt, we drove to the bottom of a hill then walked up a beautiful windy path to the temple at the top from where we could watch and photograph a gorgeous sunset. It was crowded, had to climb up many very steep steps which are a feature of the design of these temples ( I dont think they had building regs then), but wow was it worth it.
Going down the crowded steps I was mainly concerned about overweight tourists behind and above me losing their footing and causing an avalanche of people crashing down to the bottom. If I'd been in the middle of it I wouldn't have been able to get a photo. When I got to the bottom I waited hopefully with my camera but no avalanche that day. It really was that steep going from a long way up.
Back down the path, the minibus and the hotel, from where walked to the Sugar Palm restaurant, very pleasant evening.
Slept like a log.
Today Wednesday, a guided tour of 3 more temples. First 2 also built by Jayavaraman 7th, first in honour of his teacher, the second for his mother. These are Bhuddist temples but the third was a 10 century Hindu temple called Bayon built by a priest in honour of women. Lots of incredibly intricate stone carving here. One of the theories was that they used the conquered Cham people for stone carving at which they were specially skilled. Fascinating designs and carvings on all of the temples, telling stories in great detail often with snatches of humour and lots of animals depicted. Got many wonderful pictures today as well as enjoying the beauty of these huge complex multi-leveled temples surrounded by jungle, tall trees and lakes.
Inputting this in an internet cafe, 50c an hour compared with 5 dollars in the hotel! But being attacked by a horde of mozzies!
Meeting at 7 to find a different local restaurant tonight.
Last full day of the guided tour tomorrow, it will have been 3 weeks! where did it go?
Take care everyone,
John
Monday, November 19, 2007
Mon 19 Nov 9.15pm Pnom Penh
Mon 19Noc 9.15pn Phnom Penh
Bus was late this morning so listened to local guide Bon Loo who is a very confidant young man (25) who we later learned is the son of a local district leader. He is working hard for a degree in Media Studies and has exams on Thursday this week. His passions are football (he knows a lot about all the major teams and leagues in Asia and Europe) and Dragon Boat Racing. Interestingly, Annie rows for a team in Canada but their number per boat is 20, here it ranges from 68 tp 92 per boat! The big annual 'regatta/festival' here is next week, each village or district enters its own boat, they race over 3 days, up to 2km per race, and the King presents medals to the winning team. But Bon Loo will miss most of it because he is on a tourist bike ride from Vietnam to Cambodia. With fairground type games, concerts and plays, it sounds a great place to be.
The bus took us to the King's Palace. we walked around the outside but couldn't go in because government officials were receiving an important delagation from Iran today. Got photos of some very impressive buildings.
Next to lunch at the Kymer Surin Restaurant, very smart, excellent Khymer food.
Then to The city's main musem which contained a host of exibits carved out of sandstone mainly 9thC onwards but some BC. Also later wood and brass fiogures. Mostly Bhuddas and other religious figures.
Then we were taken to a set of four 3-storey buildings which were originally a High School called Ponhea Yat, named after a royal ancestor of King Norodom Sihanouk. The rooms were classroom size with two 'quads'. From 1975 to 1979, the school was converted into a prison for people accused of minor crimes by Pol Pot's Khymer Rouge regime. It was one of many established as training centres throughout the country, set up as re-education camps. All of the classrooms were converted into prison cells, some by erecting internal brick walls to create small 2m x 1m cells. Prisoners came from all parts of the country and all walks of life. However a dominant theme of Pol Pot's policy was to remove any threat that may arise from the country's educated classes. The whole population of Phnom Penh was ordered to leave the city and work in the countryside and anybody identified as educated because of the way they spoke or ability to speak foreign languages etc were sent to re-education centres like Ponhea Yat which was renamed S21 (S stands for security office). Every prisoner was photographed and these pictures of the inmates were on display. Over the 3 years and 8 months of this school being used as a prison, the records show it had 10,499 adult inmates plus about 2,000 children pass through. The duration of imprisonment ranged from 2 to 4 months at the end of which they were killed. 7 survived. Throughout Cambodia during Pol Pot's reign of terror, 1.7 to 2.2 million people, nearly all Cambodians, were killed in all sorts of horrible ways and buried in mass graves. For petty crimes, including not having a job, or for being educated. I was working in West Wales for F J Reeves at the time. The United Nations was prevented from intervening during these years by China and Vietnam. Eventually Vietnam deposed Pol Pot in 1979, not long after we celebrated Jo's first birthday. He died a natural death not long ago.
After the Nazis killed 4m (or was it 5m?) jews thay said it would never be allowed to happen agian. The UN was formed. But Cambodia, Bosnia, Ruanda, Dofur? Where next I wonder. Nowhere I hope.
In vain?
John
Bus was late this morning so listened to local guide Bon Loo who is a very confidant young man (25) who we later learned is the son of a local district leader. He is working hard for a degree in Media Studies and has exams on Thursday this week. His passions are football (he knows a lot about all the major teams and leagues in Asia and Europe) and Dragon Boat Racing. Interestingly, Annie rows for a team in Canada but their number per boat is 20, here it ranges from 68 tp 92 per boat! The big annual 'regatta/festival' here is next week, each village or district enters its own boat, they race over 3 days, up to 2km per race, and the King presents medals to the winning team. But Bon Loo will miss most of it because he is on a tourist bike ride from Vietnam to Cambodia. With fairground type games, concerts and plays, it sounds a great place to be.
The bus took us to the King's Palace. we walked around the outside but couldn't go in because government officials were receiving an important delagation from Iran today. Got photos of some very impressive buildings.
Next to lunch at the Kymer Surin Restaurant, very smart, excellent Khymer food.
Then to The city's main musem which contained a host of exibits carved out of sandstone mainly 9thC onwards but some BC. Also later wood and brass fiogures. Mostly Bhuddas and other religious figures.
Then we were taken to a set of four 3-storey buildings which were originally a High School called Ponhea Yat, named after a royal ancestor of King Norodom Sihanouk. The rooms were classroom size with two 'quads'. From 1975 to 1979, the school was converted into a prison for people accused of minor crimes by Pol Pot's Khymer Rouge regime. It was one of many established as training centres throughout the country, set up as re-education camps. All of the classrooms were converted into prison cells, some by erecting internal brick walls to create small 2m x 1m cells. Prisoners came from all parts of the country and all walks of life. However a dominant theme of Pol Pot's policy was to remove any threat that may arise from the country's educated classes. The whole population of Phnom Penh was ordered to leave the city and work in the countryside and anybody identified as educated because of the way they spoke or ability to speak foreign languages etc were sent to re-education centres like Ponhea Yat which was renamed S21 (S stands for security office). Every prisoner was photographed and these pictures of the inmates were on display. Over the 3 years and 8 months of this school being used as a prison, the records show it had 10,499 adult inmates plus about 2,000 children pass through. The duration of imprisonment ranged from 2 to 4 months at the end of which they were killed. 7 survived. Throughout Cambodia during Pol Pot's reign of terror, 1.7 to 2.2 million people, nearly all Cambodians, were killed in all sorts of horrible ways and buried in mass graves. For petty crimes, including not having a job, or for being educated. I was working in West Wales for F J Reeves at the time. The United Nations was prevented from intervening during these years by China and Vietnam. Eventually Vietnam deposed Pol Pot in 1979, not long after we celebrated Jo's first birthday. He died a natural death not long ago.
After the Nazis killed 4m (or was it 5m?) jews thay said it would never be allowed to happen agian. The UN was formed. But Cambodia, Bosnia, Ruanda, Dofur? Where next I wonder. Nowhere I hope.
In vain?
John
Sunday, November 18, 2007
Sunday 18 Nov 9pm Phnom Penh
Sunday 18 Nov 9pm Asia Palace Hotel, Phnom Penh, Cambodia.
Up early this morning, departed Saigon Hotel 6.30am, minibus to 10 seater boat, boarded 7am, fast motoring up the Mekong river 2 hours to Cambodia border, got some good photos, had lost my white exit document but it didn't matter our guide Hoang and his girl Friday sorted it and also sorted Annie's visa then another 3 hours fast boating up the river to Phnom Penh.
Bye bye Vietnam
Hello Cambodia
Lots of single storey homes along the river bank, many shack like, lots of fisherman and friendly waving from all and sundry on the way. It's a very wide and quite fast flowing river, not much commercial traffic but it is Sunday.
Most people in Cambodia are Bhuddist but Sunday certainly seemed to be a day off in Phnom Penh except, of course, for the street-side shops, street sellers and the huge market in the middle of the city. Walked around the market this afternoon, you can get genuine rolex watches for $10, all the best branded goods for a fraction of the UK price.
Also this afternoon 4 of us hired a Tuk Tuk for an hour's random driving around the city. A Tuk Tuk is a 4 to 8? seat covered carriage attached to a moped . A bit like a horse and cart with a bike instead of the horse and you feed it petrol instead of hay and water. The driver did an excellent job showing us around and stopping at some of the temples for us to get out and take a few photos. Cost us $7 = 3pounds50p but well worth it ($2 each including tip) More cars here but still predominantly mopeds, motor bikes and cycles carrying one to five people and mountains of produce and products, as in Vietnam. Interestingly the Tuk Tuk seemed to have right of way on the chaotic city streets, at least, our driver just went where he wanted and everyone else had to swerve out of his way. Who is it he reminded me of? I can't quite remember just now.
In the evening we went looking for a Cambodian Restaurant. After finding japanese, french and chinese, we stopped another Tuk Tuk and asked him to take us to a restaurant serving Cambodian food. (That cost us another $3 total.) Another scenic tour of the city ended up by the river where we were welcomed into a boisterous family run establishment where we were brillianly looked after by a 10 year old, his slightly older brother and even older sister (18?). The place was full, we ordered too much food, all excellent, what a nice evening. Arranged for same Tuk Tuk to take us back to Asia Pacific Hotel which is very smart and comfortable. 8.30 pm by now and on the way all along the river bank for maybe a mile or more seemed to be one big party, young people, families, stalls, everyone enjoying a sunday evening by the river. Great atmosphere.
Guided tour of the city tomorrow.
All the Best,
John
Up early this morning, departed Saigon Hotel 6.30am, minibus to 10 seater boat, boarded 7am, fast motoring up the Mekong river 2 hours to Cambodia border, got some good photos, had lost my white exit document but it didn't matter our guide Hoang and his girl Friday sorted it and also sorted Annie's visa then another 3 hours fast boating up the river to Phnom Penh.
Bye bye Vietnam
Hello Cambodia
Lots of single storey homes along the river bank, many shack like, lots of fisherman and friendly waving from all and sundry on the way. It's a very wide and quite fast flowing river, not much commercial traffic but it is Sunday.
Most people in Cambodia are Bhuddist but Sunday certainly seemed to be a day off in Phnom Penh except, of course, for the street-side shops, street sellers and the huge market in the middle of the city. Walked around the market this afternoon, you can get genuine rolex watches for $10, all the best branded goods for a fraction of the UK price.
Also this afternoon 4 of us hired a Tuk Tuk for an hour's random driving around the city. A Tuk Tuk is a 4 to 8? seat covered carriage attached to a moped . A bit like a horse and cart with a bike instead of the horse and you feed it petrol instead of hay and water. The driver did an excellent job showing us around and stopping at some of the temples for us to get out and take a few photos. Cost us $7 = 3pounds50p but well worth it ($2 each including tip) More cars here but still predominantly mopeds, motor bikes and cycles carrying one to five people and mountains of produce and products, as in Vietnam. Interestingly the Tuk Tuk seemed to have right of way on the chaotic city streets, at least, our driver just went where he wanted and everyone else had to swerve out of his way. Who is it he reminded me of? I can't quite remember just now.
In the evening we went looking for a Cambodian Restaurant. After finding japanese, french and chinese, we stopped another Tuk Tuk and asked him to take us to a restaurant serving Cambodian food. (That cost us another $3 total.) Another scenic tour of the city ended up by the river where we were welcomed into a boisterous family run establishment where we were brillianly looked after by a 10 year old, his slightly older brother and even older sister (18?). The place was full, we ordered too much food, all excellent, what a nice evening. Arranged for same Tuk Tuk to take us back to Asia Pacific Hotel which is very smart and comfortable. 8.30 pm by now and on the way all along the river bank for maybe a mile or more seemed to be one big party, young people, families, stalls, everyone enjoying a sunday evening by the river. Great atmosphere.
Guided tour of the city tomorrow.
All the Best,
John
Saturday, November 17, 2007
Sat 17 9.40pm Chau Pho Hotel nr Cambodia border
Sat 17 9,40pm Chau Pho Hotel nr Cambodia border.
Minibus from Saigon Hotel to Mekong Delta took about 2 hours. 7 of us on a 10 seater boat very cosy, taken to Cai Be floating market - hundreds of boats selling all sorts of everything, retail and wholesale, all taking place on this part of the river. Then to a restaurant on Binh Boa Phuoc Island - started with 'elephant ear' fish, socalled because it looks like one, whick came as one whole deep fried fish which we had to pick chunks off and make out own spring rolls with a bit of salad very tasty they were too. Then fried frogs legs, didn't think there was much taste in these certainly nothing to jump around about. Then a huge prawn which WAS very tasty. Fruit to finish. Then back on the boat to visit a very skilled labour intensive factory making pop-rice, pop-corn and other sweetie things. Very interesting to watch them, especially making the rice paper. Clever people. Did you know that the average IQ of far eastern people is 105? ours is 100. Then on the boat again for a long winding trip through waterways on the island with the local population going about their daily business all around us, often smiling and waving, seemingly living happy lives.
Then back to the minibus for a 5 hour drive to this hotel which is in Chau Doc province near the border with Cambodia. Had our last meal in Vietnam in a local restaurant. Leaving at 6.30 in the morning to cross the border.
All the best,
John
Minibus from Saigon Hotel to Mekong Delta took about 2 hours. 7 of us on a 10 seater boat very cosy, taken to Cai Be floating market - hundreds of boats selling all sorts of everything, retail and wholesale, all taking place on this part of the river. Then to a restaurant on Binh Boa Phuoc Island - started with 'elephant ear' fish, socalled because it looks like one, whick came as one whole deep fried fish which we had to pick chunks off and make out own spring rolls with a bit of salad very tasty they were too. Then fried frogs legs, didn't think there was much taste in these certainly nothing to jump around about. Then a huge prawn which WAS very tasty. Fruit to finish. Then back on the boat to visit a very skilled labour intensive factory making pop-rice, pop-corn and other sweetie things. Very interesting to watch them, especially making the rice paper. Clever people. Did you know that the average IQ of far eastern people is 105? ours is 100. Then on the boat again for a long winding trip through waterways on the island with the local population going about their daily business all around us, often smiling and waving, seemingly living happy lives.
Then back to the minibus for a 5 hour drive to this hotel which is in Chau Doc province near the border with Cambodia. Had our last meal in Vietnam in a local restaurant. Leaving at 6.30 in the morning to cross the border.
All the best,
John
Friday, November 16, 2007
Sat17 7.30am about to leave Saigon
Sat17 7.30am about to leave Saigon
Yesterday 16th taken deep into countryside to Cu Chi, a district of South Vietnam that put up fierce resistance to the SV government and US forces during the war. The people of this district built over 200 kilometers of tunnels at 3 levels covering a such large area that bombing and chemical attacks were unable to destroy them. The Viet Cong used the tunnels, some of which exited under water into the river, to pop up and ambush SV/US troops and tanks then dissappear just as fast back into the tunnels. It is now a tourist attraction where we were able to go through some of the tunnels (enlarged slightly for westerners!) had to stooop almost double and needed a torch. I went the wrong way and came out by climbing up abou 30 ft. of ladder from the depths in darkness and pushing up a heavy lid to get out at a spot deep in the jungle instead of on the path. This caused some consternation to one of the staff. The VC had sleeping quarters, kitchens (piping the smoke to come out well away from tunnels causing americans to drop bombs in harmless places), dining rooms, armament manufacturing rooms (often using discarded/used bits of US stuff), traps with horrible spikes for SV/US troops to fall into, all the things they needed for a large community to survive and make guerilla warfare over many years until the SV/US were defeated. All quite difficult for australian David, whose brother fought here for 2 years.
Spent rest of day wandering around HCMC/Saigon, taking photos, raeding, watched a film in the evening, its a busy schedule so took the opportunity to chill out for half a day and evening.
7.55am now, about to leave for Mekong delta cruise.
Best of Health to everyone,
John
Yesterday 16th taken deep into countryside to Cu Chi, a district of South Vietnam that put up fierce resistance to the SV government and US forces during the war. The people of this district built over 200 kilometers of tunnels at 3 levels covering a such large area that bombing and chemical attacks were unable to destroy them. The Viet Cong used the tunnels, some of which exited under water into the river, to pop up and ambush SV/US troops and tanks then dissappear just as fast back into the tunnels. It is now a tourist attraction where we were able to go through some of the tunnels (enlarged slightly for westerners!) had to stooop almost double and needed a torch. I went the wrong way and came out by climbing up abou 30 ft. of ladder from the depths in darkness and pushing up a heavy lid to get out at a spot deep in the jungle instead of on the path. This caused some consternation to one of the staff. The VC had sleeping quarters, kitchens (piping the smoke to come out well away from tunnels causing americans to drop bombs in harmless places), dining rooms, armament manufacturing rooms (often using discarded/used bits of US stuff), traps with horrible spikes for SV/US troops to fall into, all the things they needed for a large community to survive and make guerilla warfare over many years until the SV/US were defeated. All quite difficult for australian David, whose brother fought here for 2 years.
Spent rest of day wandering around HCMC/Saigon, taking photos, raeding, watched a film in the evening, its a busy schedule so took the opportunity to chill out for half a day and evening.
7.55am now, about to leave for Mekong delta cruise.
Best of Health to everyone,
John
Thursday, November 15, 2007
Thurs 15 Nov 9pm Ho Chi Minh City = Saigon
Thurs 15 Nov 8pm Ho Chi Minh City = Saigon. Up this morning at 4.30am, breakfast 5.30, depart hotel in Hoi An 6am, flight to HCMC departed Danang 8am arrived HCMC 9am, got 2 breakfasts, one in Hoi An hotel, one on plane. Good start to the day. New minibus to what was called Siagon's 'WHITE HOUSE' ie where the President (of South Vietnam) lived and conducted official business as with the WHITE HOUSE in Washington. This building became HQ of the war effort by the South supported by US against the North. The french had gone/eased out by the US; Eisenhower, Kenedy and Lyndon Johnson poured more and more troups and equipment in to stem the spread of communism trying to avoid a repeat of Eastern Europe in Indochina. North Vietnam, led by Ho Chi Minh and supported by former enemies China, Russia and others, out thought and out-fought the Americans and their allies until the final debacle at the White House where the communists burst through the gates much sooner than anyone could have believed and the last americans and south officials were helicoptered off the roof in a panic evacuation to US warships in the South China Sea. A devastating defeat for the US which it has taken them over 30 years to recover from and forget before making comparable mistakes in Iraq. But maybe if they hadn't delayed the march of communism in the far east, we would have had an equivalent of eastern europe with Chinese or Russian domination in Vietnam, Laos, Thailand, Burma, Indonesia, Malaya, even Japan? India? Who knows? Anyway the 'WHITE HOUSE' is now called 'UNIFICATION HOUSE' and is open to the public.
After checking into The Saigon Hotel, we were taken to the 'War Remnants Museum'. Tanks, aircraft, bombs, howitsers, field guns, rockets, prison cells, a used guillotine and photographs. All on display. A moving display of history that took place in my adult lifetime. Especially the photographs. No holds barred depiction of this war. I photographed some of the photographs. Vietnamese school children (15 - 18?) were doing a 'project' on the museum. Making notes from the photographs and their captions. It all happened before they were born but their parents and uncles and aunts and grandparents must have been involved. Possibly on different sides. What must these children have thought. Many of the photographs show terrible scenes of war. Terrible for both sides. Most terrible were the photographs of civilain families caught up in the war because their village was in the wrong place. What have the politicians of today learned from this appauling war? I fear nothing.
But maybe the children of Vietnam, and visitors from all over the world who crowd this museum every day as today, will learn, and remember this stuff, and others will remember photographs and films of other wars in other museums, and yet others will remember stuff they have seen on the tele in the news and documentaries, will remember it when the next war is being planned by the politicians. National and International travel and communication enable, for the first time in history, masses of people from all over the world to see for themselves the legacy of political adventurism as recorded by photo-journalists in war zones. Maybe this is where hope lies.
John
After checking into The Saigon Hotel, we were taken to the 'War Remnants Museum'. Tanks, aircraft, bombs, howitsers, field guns, rockets, prison cells, a used guillotine and photographs. All on display. A moving display of history that took place in my adult lifetime. Especially the photographs. No holds barred depiction of this war. I photographed some of the photographs. Vietnamese school children (15 - 18?) were doing a 'project' on the museum. Making notes from the photographs and their captions. It all happened before they were born but their parents and uncles and aunts and grandparents must have been involved. Possibly on different sides. What must these children have thought. Many of the photographs show terrible scenes of war. Terrible for both sides. Most terrible were the photographs of civilain families caught up in the war because their village was in the wrong place. What have the politicians of today learned from this appauling war? I fear nothing.
But maybe the children of Vietnam, and visitors from all over the world who crowd this museum every day as today, will learn, and remember this stuff, and others will remember photographs and films of other wars in other museums, and yet others will remember stuff they have seen on the tele in the news and documentaries, will remember it when the next war is being planned by the politicians. National and International travel and communication enable, for the first time in history, masses of people from all over the world to see for themselves the legacy of political adventurism as recorded by photo-journalists in war zones. Maybe this is where hope lies.
John
Wednesday, November 14, 2007
Wed 14 Nov Hoi An 8pm
Wed 14 Nov Hoi An 8pmTour of old town here today, Hoi An was a major port centuries ago but got silted up and french made Danang and Saigon (now Ho Chi Minh City) main ports in 19th century. Old town recovering from floods, mostly accessible now but in restaurant where just had evening meal proprietor lady told us water had been half way up chairs. Hoi An quite a small town, old town included a very busy market area, fruit, veg, chicken carcases, bits of pigs, cows and probably dogs too. Walked over ancient bridge, visited interesting Cham shrine subsequently converted to assembly area for town meetings by chinese who had settled in Hoi An after Ming dynasty overthrown by Kinh? dynasty in 1800s. Also had tour around silk factory, shown baby worms and the leaves they feed on, bigger worms doing lots of wriggling about, silk crysalises then very old spinning devices and looms all hand operated to make end products sold in their shop. Bought myself a silk shirt.
Had a swim in hotel pool and read a bit this afternoon.
Eating local dishes in local restaurants all excellent so far and managed to avoid anythig too hot. Food will be hotter in HCMC I've been told.
Up early tomorrow to catch 8am flIght to HCMC. After some prompting from me, breakfast organised for 5'30am
aLL THE bEST,
John
Had a swim in hotel pool and read a bit this afternoon.
Eating local dishes in local restaurants all excellent so far and managed to avoid anythig too hot. Food will be hotter in HCMC I've been told.
Up early tomorrow to catch 8am flIght to HCMC. After some prompting from me, breakfast organised for 5'30am
aLL THE bEST,
John
Tuesday, November 13, 2007
Tues 13 Nov 8.40pm, Hoi An
Tues 13 Nov 8.40pm Ancient House Hotel, Hoi An. As you will realise from the heading, we escaped flooded Hue (at 1pm today) and travelled south in our minibus. Awful flooding either side and sometimes in the road. Ground floor only homes, some not more than shacks, with a foot of water through them. Filthy water. But the people just get on with it, cleaning them out where the water level has dropped below their floor level. The kids are happy, they're off school.
Stopped for an hour or so at museum in Danang, built by french dedicated to Cham people who dominated the central area of Vietnam from 2nd? to 13th century ad. Unfortunately the french took many of the aryfacts when they got chucked out but much remains. The Cham were expert carvers of stone, the exhibition has many examples of stone carvings of their various gods. Cham females had high status therefore many of the gods were ladies with big boobs got some good photos.
On to Hoi An and check in to Ancient House Hotel. Very interesting old house with chalet type rooms built in the grounds probably inspired by french barns. Just a long rectangular room with no windows and water dripping through the ceiling but not over the beds fortunately, bathroom added on the end. Looks comfortable the real test will be breakfast. Here for 2 nights instaed of the scheduled 3.
Just had excellent deep fried shrimp and veg at nearby local caf.
Bestest to everyone,
John
Stopped for an hour or so at museum in Danang, built by french dedicated to Cham people who dominated the central area of Vietnam from 2nd? to 13th century ad. Unfortunately the french took many of the aryfacts when they got chucked out but much remains. The Cham were expert carvers of stone, the exhibition has many examples of stone carvings of their various gods. Cham females had high status therefore many of the gods were ladies with big boobs got some good photos.
On to Hoi An and check in to Ancient House Hotel. Very interesting old house with chalet type rooms built in the grounds probably inspired by french barns. Just a long rectangular room with no windows and water dripping through the ceiling but not over the beds fortunately, bathroom added on the end. Looks comfortable the real test will be breakfast. Here for 2 nights instaed of the scheduled 3.
Just had excellent deep fried shrimp and veg at nearby local caf.
Bestest to everyone,
John
Monday, November 12, 2007
Mon 12 Nov 8pm still in Hue
Mon 12 Nov 8pm still in Hue due to continuous rain all last night and today, should have left 8 am this morning but streets flooded 400mm here, just up to main foyer level kept out by barriers, up to waist in other parts. Hence stranded in Festival Hue Hotel, comfortable rooms, good shower, excellent vietnamese meals, had a sports massage, finished book and started another, chatted with rest of group, I think we'll survive the inconvenience. Very bad for resident population, some retreated to first floor of their dwellings when they have one. Only 4x4s, bicycles, pedestrians and boats in the streets. still raining but told it has stopped in hills, water level down slightly. May be able to leave tomorrow, may not. Feeling very relaxed so will go with the flow. All the Best, John
Sunday, November 11, 2007
11 Nov Hue 8pm raining cats and dogs
Sunday 11 Nov, 8pm.
Yesterday evening we discovered that our overnight train would leave Hanoi at 11pm instead of 7pm so went to a water puppet show in Hanoi to make use of the time and it was brilliant, very entertaining, puppets controlled by poles under the water held by pupeteers behind a curtain very skilful.
Bunk in train a bit cramped, 3 high berths but luckily only 4 of us in our compartment good job we all get on well. Passed fields moslty wet rice, many wide rivers, water everywhere.
Arrived Hue 10.30 this morning. Hue is the old capital of Vietnam when ruled by the Nguyen dynasty from 1802 to 1945 (although the french were here also I believe) when Ho Chi Minh had his revolution. Hue is in the central region that got hit by two typhoons recently, it hasn't recovered so the continuous rain we are now experiencjng has nowhere to go so streets are flooded , some by several feet.
Our group was taken by minibus to the mauseleum of the fourth of the Nguyen kings. Tu Doc ruled for 40 years and had 140 wives but no children due to a childhood illness that incapacitated him, can you imagine any worse luck? But full marks to him for trying. The mauseleum was a sucession of impressive buildings, some of which the US had bombed during the sixties war but are now largely restored. Most Vietnamese worship past great people as well as Buddah, so this mauseleum is a sacred place. (10% of the 82m Vietnamese are catholic from the french era)
Staying at Festival Hue Hotel, walked this evening to another previously booked water puppet show, got soaked in flooded streets, shallowest was over a foot deep, everyone thought it was great fun I think we are all mad.
Best wishes to all,
John
Yesterday evening we discovered that our overnight train would leave Hanoi at 11pm instead of 7pm so went to a water puppet show in Hanoi to make use of the time and it was brilliant, very entertaining, puppets controlled by poles under the water held by pupeteers behind a curtain very skilful.
Bunk in train a bit cramped, 3 high berths but luckily only 4 of us in our compartment good job we all get on well. Passed fields moslty wet rice, many wide rivers, water everywhere.
Arrived Hue 10.30 this morning. Hue is the old capital of Vietnam when ruled by the Nguyen dynasty from 1802 to 1945 (although the french were here also I believe) when Ho Chi Minh had his revolution. Hue is in the central region that got hit by two typhoons recently, it hasn't recovered so the continuous rain we are now experiencjng has nowhere to go so streets are flooded , some by several feet.
Our group was taken by minibus to the mauseleum of the fourth of the Nguyen kings. Tu Doc ruled for 40 years and had 140 wives but no children due to a childhood illness that incapacitated him, can you imagine any worse luck? But full marks to him for trying. The mauseleum was a sucession of impressive buildings, some of which the US had bombed during the sixties war but are now largely restored. Most Vietnamese worship past great people as well as Buddah, so this mauseleum is a sacred place. (10% of the 82m Vietnamese are catholic from the french era)
Staying at Festival Hue Hotel, walked this evening to another previously booked water puppet show, got soaked in flooded streets, shallowest was over a foot deep, everyone thought it was great fun I think we are all mad.
Best wishes to all,
John
Saturday, November 10, 2007
10 Nov Back in Hanoi after 3 days boating
8 Nov minibus to Ha Long Bay, very different agriculture on the way, dry not wet, fields like thousands of allotments growing potatos, sugar, various vegetables lots of people wearing light shades working their plots. Ha Long port containing many junks all fitted out for tourists. Rooms on junk very comfortable with en-suite including shower. Lunch on the boat (and all subsequent meals) superb. In separate courses beautifully presented, a whole crab each, dishes of shellfish, a huge shrimp, then the main course snapper fish perfectly cooked by the boats chef, fruit and vietnamese tea to finish. 8 staff on the junk looking after 6 of us.
The bay has hundreds of huge rocks, tree and shrub covered, rising steeply out of the water, some small ones in weird shapes (the dog rock, the kissing rocks) but mostly rising to vast heights, maybe 200 metres. Our junk weaved through them providing ever changing breathtaking scenic views all around. Stopped near one rock with (424) steps to the top where the sun-set over other rocks was well worth the climb. Had a swim off the beach at the bottom afterwards.
Next morning 9th we all got into a small boat which took us into what looked like a low cave in one of the rocks but turned out to be the only entrance to a hidden lagoon, maybe 100m diameter, with vertical rocks, trees and jungle and palm trees towering over us. Had good views of birds and monkeys in the trees with eagles soaring overhead. Magical.
Back to the junk which took us to another part of the bay where we all had a pleasant swim. Then more touring round the bay relaxing on sunbeds on the roof. Observed many local people living on rafts in small groups linked together. They are fishermen and each raft is mostly taken up with a small hut, maybe 4 to 5 metres square, in which they live. Also lots of pearl farming in the bay. Then to Dao Soi Sim island where more steps and rugged path to top for more spectacular views. Another swim at the bottom then another meal, more sailing around and laying on the sun-deck - bliss.
Today 10th 7am breakfast, more relaxing on the roof, weather throughout sunny but not too hot, 11am lunch, off the junk at 12 midday, minibus back to Hanoi where now updating blog late afternoon. Next is another meal at the nearby local fried fish restaurant (maybe we'll see the rat on the high shelf again, we persuaded Annie it must be a pet one). Then we leave Hanoi for the last time to catch an overnight train south.
How is everyone? All the Best,
John
The bay has hundreds of huge rocks, tree and shrub covered, rising steeply out of the water, some small ones in weird shapes (the dog rock, the kissing rocks) but mostly rising to vast heights, maybe 200 metres. Our junk weaved through them providing ever changing breathtaking scenic views all around. Stopped near one rock with (424) steps to the top where the sun-set over other rocks was well worth the climb. Had a swim off the beach at the bottom afterwards.
Next morning 9th we all got into a small boat which took us into what looked like a low cave in one of the rocks but turned out to be the only entrance to a hidden lagoon, maybe 100m diameter, with vertical rocks, trees and jungle and palm trees towering over us. Had good views of birds and monkeys in the trees with eagles soaring overhead. Magical.
Back to the junk which took us to another part of the bay where we all had a pleasant swim. Then more touring round the bay relaxing on sunbeds on the roof. Observed many local people living on rafts in small groups linked together. They are fishermen and each raft is mostly taken up with a small hut, maybe 4 to 5 metres square, in which they live. Also lots of pearl farming in the bay. Then to Dao Soi Sim island where more steps and rugged path to top for more spectacular views. Another swim at the bottom then another meal, more sailing around and laying on the sun-deck - bliss.
Today 10th 7am breakfast, more relaxing on the roof, weather throughout sunny but not too hot, 11am lunch, off the junk at 12 midday, minibus back to Hanoi where now updating blog late afternoon. Next is another meal at the nearby local fried fish restaurant (maybe we'll see the rat on the high shelf again, we persuaded Annie it must be a pet one). Then we leave Hanoi for the last time to catch an overnight train south.
How is everyone? All the Best,
John
Wednesday, November 07, 2007
7 Nov back in Hanoi after 3 days treking
5 Nov driven in minibus up into hills through paddy fields, villages and forest. Lunch (excellent) on the way in Piorn Con village where we picked up a very important person - the cook. Drove a bit more then started walking with our (small) packs - all up-hill for miles 2-3 hours amazing scenery, through villages until we reached Hang Kia which is in the region inhabited by the Mung people. We stayed the night here where everything is very basic. Large room with mud floor, beds made up of timber but with nice warm soft multicoloured blankets.We had climbed 100 metres so the night was cold but I was warm enough under these blankets. However dogs barked and fought, buffalo wandered around with their big dangly bells ringing and various other noises kept all of us awake for much of the night, but it didn't matter. The villagers here dressed in traditional clothes and seemed happy in their very basic existance. They smiled at us and the children peered through a small window, interacting happily with us trekers and laughing a lot. The evening meal, prepared by our own cook, was again very enjoyable, rice, meat, cabbage, fruit being some of the recognisable things.
6 Nov The next day we set off for a seven hour hike. This was virtually all downhill, often steep, through jungle. We were on a well established path probably used over centuries by the locals but the recently ended rainy season had washed away many sections of the path. The scenery was stunning. we passed a very few travellers, all locals either carrying local produce on a pole accross their shoulders with panniers or bales hanging down each side or collecting herbs or wild bamboo or hearding a buffalo. A wonderful day. Had lunch at Can Pho and eventually arrived at Xam Van, a 'white thai' village where we spent the night in a more sophisticated building. It is constructed of vertical timber poles supporting sawn timber floors and anything made of wood they can lay their hands on for walls. All living accomodation is on the first floor where the see-through floors are dried plant leaves laid across the timbers. Again in one large room, we had our evening meal sitting on cusions around a very low table followed by vietnamese tea which I liked very much although it is served in very small cups. It was less cold here being a lower altitude so we had mosquito nets around our wooden beds which were very hard so I aquired several extra blankets for under as well as over and was very snug. (White and Black Thais are identified by the predomonant colour of their clothes not skin colour). David said black thais are for formal occasions but he's australian.
7 Nov.The dawn chorus here this morning was deafening. Started by the cockerals, I think every other animal joined in - pigs, ducks, dogs, geese, chickens, bufallo, ducks, cats, cows and caged birds. The dogs are all young and in good condition, this is because they are considered a delicacy so are eaten when nice and tender don't tell Megan.
This morning we had a very pleasant trek, mostly level through villages and rice fields. All of the houses in this area are constructed similarly to the one we stayed in. Many have very tidy veg gardens, all neat rows with various things establishing themselves before winter. We stopped outside a kindergarden school because the children started calling and waving then some sitting on a swing started to sing 'Frere Jack' to us then all of the others rushed back into the school building and emerged with tiny chairs which they placed in a row facing us either side of the swing and they all sat and joined the singing. There must have been 20 of them all in a row singing to us. A memorable event.
Another lunch - stuffed tomato, cucumber, chicken leg, cabbage and other mysterious greens, pork and kentucky fried pieces of fish. Delicious.
Back in the minibus to our hotel in Hanoi where re-united with our main packs. Out to watch a 'water puppet show' tonight????
Bestest to all,
John
6 Nov The next day we set off for a seven hour hike. This was virtually all downhill, often steep, through jungle. We were on a well established path probably used over centuries by the locals but the recently ended rainy season had washed away many sections of the path. The scenery was stunning. we passed a very few travellers, all locals either carrying local produce on a pole accross their shoulders with panniers or bales hanging down each side or collecting herbs or wild bamboo or hearding a buffalo. A wonderful day. Had lunch at Can Pho and eventually arrived at Xam Van, a 'white thai' village where we spent the night in a more sophisticated building. It is constructed of vertical timber poles supporting sawn timber floors and anything made of wood they can lay their hands on for walls. All living accomodation is on the first floor where the see-through floors are dried plant leaves laid across the timbers. Again in one large room, we had our evening meal sitting on cusions around a very low table followed by vietnamese tea which I liked very much although it is served in very small cups. It was less cold here being a lower altitude so we had mosquito nets around our wooden beds which were very hard so I aquired several extra blankets for under as well as over and was very snug. (White and Black Thais are identified by the predomonant colour of their clothes not skin colour). David said black thais are for formal occasions but he's australian.
7 Nov.The dawn chorus here this morning was deafening. Started by the cockerals, I think every other animal joined in - pigs, ducks, dogs, geese, chickens, bufallo, ducks, cats, cows and caged birds. The dogs are all young and in good condition, this is because they are considered a delicacy so are eaten when nice and tender don't tell Megan.
This morning we had a very pleasant trek, mostly level through villages and rice fields. All of the houses in this area are constructed similarly to the one we stayed in. Many have very tidy veg gardens, all neat rows with various things establishing themselves before winter. We stopped outside a kindergarden school because the children started calling and waving then some sitting on a swing started to sing 'Frere Jack' to us then all of the others rushed back into the school building and emerged with tiny chairs which they placed in a row facing us either side of the swing and they all sat and joined the singing. There must have been 20 of them all in a row singing to us. A memorable event.
Another lunch - stuffed tomato, cucumber, chicken leg, cabbage and other mysterious greens, pork and kentucky fried pieces of fish. Delicious.
Back in the minibus to our hotel in Hanoi where re-united with our main packs. Out to watch a 'water puppet show' tonight????
Bestest to all,
John
Sunday, November 04, 2007
Hanoi day 2
Hello again. The group met up this morning, David and Joanne from Sydney, Joergen and Birte from Denmark, Annie from Montreal and me. Our Guide is Hoang pronounced Wan. We travelled in a small minibus through the old quarter streets to the Mauseleum of Ho Chi Minh. Uncle Ho passed away in 1969 and despite his wish to be cremated they have mummified his body and keep it in a huge concrete ediface I hope his spirit has come to terms with this. This building plus a huge square in front of it has become Vietnam's equivalent of Red Square and Tianamen Square. The whole thing is contained within botanical gardens created earlier by the french who followed the chinese and preceeded the americans in failing to maintain control over this fiercely independant nation. The gardens include examples of historical family dwellings and meeting houses, and with its lakes and trees are a favourite spot for prospective brides and grooms to dress up in their (future) wedding garb and pose for photos. Also had a tour around the 'Vietnam Museum of Ethnology' which presented in great detail the history and cultures of the 54 ethnic groups in the country.
Then back to the Hotel and a short walk to a fried fish restaurant recommended by Hoang. Packed with locals, the menu was one choice - fried fish, noodles, thin gravy and mixed greens which had possibly been plucked from the nearest hedge. The fish came in very hot oil in a communal bowl balanced on a cracked and disintegrating earthenware pot full of red hot coals. The greenery was chucked on top and mixed in with the fish and oil and we helped ourselves from this onto our own bowl of noodles and gravy (I have just been told this was 'fish sauce'). It was delicious. $4 each.
The afternoon was spent being led around the streets, market and temple of the old quarter, already visited by some of us but still a great experience of the local culture. Also had a good look around the 'Temple of Literature' where a wise king established a place of learning in the 11th century. I think they were well ahead of us then.
Evening meal in 'Little Hanoi' restaurant, the same 4 (our danish friends rested having not slept well since arriving) was disappointing in that it was full (8 tables?) of damn tourists but we all chose vietnamese food and my chicken, rice and mixed salad was excellent.
The next 3 days are roughing it out in the sticks so may not find a terminal before returning to this hotel on the third night.
All the Best,
John
Then back to the Hotel and a short walk to a fried fish restaurant recommended by Hoang. Packed with locals, the menu was one choice - fried fish, noodles, thin gravy and mixed greens which had possibly been plucked from the nearest hedge. The fish came in very hot oil in a communal bowl balanced on a cracked and disintegrating earthenware pot full of red hot coals. The greenery was chucked on top and mixed in with the fish and oil and we helped ourselves from this onto our own bowl of noodles and gravy (I have just been told this was 'fish sauce'). It was delicious. $4 each.
The afternoon was spent being led around the streets, market and temple of the old quarter, already visited by some of us but still a great experience of the local culture. Also had a good look around the 'Temple of Literature' where a wise king established a place of learning in the 11th century. I think they were well ahead of us then.
Evening meal in 'Little Hanoi' restaurant, the same 4 (our danish friends rested having not slept well since arriving) was disappointing in that it was full (8 tables?) of damn tourists but we all chose vietnamese food and my chicken, rice and mixed salad was excellent.
The next 3 days are roughing it out in the sticks so may not find a terminal before returning to this hotel on the third night.
All the Best,
John
Saturday, November 03, 2007
Hanoi
Sat 3rd Nov Majestic Hotel, Hanoi 5.30pm
Help, all my sign in and log in instructions are in vietnamese. got throught it so in at last.
Malaysian Airways excellent, HeathrowT3 awful incl 200m q for security, Kuala Lumpur airport brilliant, Hanoi airport fine. Got 2 breakfasts, one on each flight, a good start to the holiday. Taxi ride to hotel interesting and hairy dual carriageway here means go both ways on both sides if it suits you and you are on a bike or moped which many are.
GiaBoa hotel is in the middle of the old quarter so went walkabout what an amazing place narrow streets higldy pigldy buildings up to 4 storeys full of potted greenery and washing on all levels each with tiny shops at street level bustling with people and mopeds and bikes everywhere parked at all angles on pavements and roadsides and thousands of them speeding through streets in all directions where one-way, right hand driving, stopping at pedestrian crossings and red lights are all optional. Crossing the road great fun just walk out and keep going they are very skilled at missing you and each other. very few cars mainly taxis only saw one bus. People busy getting on with their lives selling stuff, sorting stock, moving stuff about including on grossly overloaded bikes and mopeds, chatting, cooking and eating on street corners, lots of horn blowing but no shouting, they dont shout here, raised voices in anger are rude.
Met and chatted with Hgoc a student. People just start talking to you it's a bit like Lannelli and Burry Port.
Visited Ngocson Temple and Lake Ho Guom = Lake of the Sword Restored where an ancient warrior who had defeated the chinese was out boating on the lake and had his sword nicked by a huge passing turtle and interpreted this as a holy sign that the wars were over and it would be peaceful for evermore obviously nobody told him about the americans, anyway I think he just dropped it and had to think up an excuse.
Evening meal pork + cashews, had cabbage perfectly cooked and onion rings huge portions nearly couldn't eat it all (shouldn't have had mixed melon and salad starter). Vietnamese beer very nice - lager of course, they didn't have warm english beer, theyre no better than the aussies and kiwis in this respect they should all get themselves organised with St Austel ales.
2nd day = 3rd nov excellent breakfast
Moved to Majestic Salute Hotel in another part of old town where guided trip starts with a meal this evening, this hotel even smarter but might have to share.
Went walkabout again in the afternoon, found old french? water tower surrounded by traffic and a 1946 memorial in a park, met Hewey probably spelled Hui she sold me postcards and 2 Hanoi t shirts (for squash) chatted for ages also Huw (Hu?) 8 year old girl on a bike who practiced her english on me to the apparent delight of her granny and amazement of her little brother. They are all learning english at school now, Hui informed me. We had quite a little gathering in the park.
6.25 now, must go to meeting. Keep in touch, all the Best,
John
Help, all my sign in and log in instructions are in vietnamese. got throught it so in at last.
Malaysian Airways excellent, HeathrowT3 awful incl 200m q for security, Kuala Lumpur airport brilliant, Hanoi airport fine. Got 2 breakfasts, one on each flight, a good start to the holiday. Taxi ride to hotel interesting and hairy dual carriageway here means go both ways on both sides if it suits you and you are on a bike or moped which many are.
GiaBoa hotel is in the middle of the old quarter so went walkabout what an amazing place narrow streets higldy pigldy buildings up to 4 storeys full of potted greenery and washing on all levels each with tiny shops at street level bustling with people and mopeds and bikes everywhere parked at all angles on pavements and roadsides and thousands of them speeding through streets in all directions where one-way, right hand driving, stopping at pedestrian crossings and red lights are all optional. Crossing the road great fun just walk out and keep going they are very skilled at missing you and each other. very few cars mainly taxis only saw one bus. People busy getting on with their lives selling stuff, sorting stock, moving stuff about including on grossly overloaded bikes and mopeds, chatting, cooking and eating on street corners, lots of horn blowing but no shouting, they dont shout here, raised voices in anger are rude.
Met and chatted with Hgoc a student. People just start talking to you it's a bit like Lannelli and Burry Port.
Visited Ngocson Temple and Lake Ho Guom = Lake of the Sword Restored where an ancient warrior who had defeated the chinese was out boating on the lake and had his sword nicked by a huge passing turtle and interpreted this as a holy sign that the wars were over and it would be peaceful for evermore obviously nobody told him about the americans, anyway I think he just dropped it and had to think up an excuse.
Evening meal pork + cashews, had cabbage perfectly cooked and onion rings huge portions nearly couldn't eat it all (shouldn't have had mixed melon and salad starter). Vietnamese beer very nice - lager of course, they didn't have warm english beer, theyre no better than the aussies and kiwis in this respect they should all get themselves organised with St Austel ales.
2nd day = 3rd nov excellent breakfast
Moved to Majestic Salute Hotel in another part of old town where guided trip starts with a meal this evening, this hotel even smarter but might have to share.
Went walkabout again in the afternoon, found old french? water tower surrounded by traffic and a 1946 memorial in a park, met Hewey probably spelled Hui she sold me postcards and 2 Hanoi t shirts (for squash) chatted for ages also Huw (Hu?) 8 year old girl on a bike who practiced her english on me to the apparent delight of her granny and amazement of her little brother. They are all learning english at school now, Hui informed me. We had quite a little gathering in the park.
6.25 now, must go to meeting. Keep in touch, all the Best,
John
Wednesday, October 31, 2007
Wednesday, August 22, 2007
TEST
just spent half hour trying to get in to check blogspot still working. what a pain.
Hope to start next trip in Oct. Keep in touch.
Hope to start next trip in Oct. Keep in touch.
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