CHINA
Starting this trip with some sightseeing in Bangkok. Gave myself a couple of quiet days to adjust to time zone and plan days ahead with guide Mint. Thailand is normally 7 hours ahead but for some reason they do not have BST here so currently only 6 hours ahead.
First evening I am taken to a Lao restaurant by Mint with 2 friends, Dee and Li. A live band and dancers plus good food make this a very pleasant start to my holiday.
Second evening we go to the Bangkok House of Rock. A brilliant 7 piece band belts out Beatles to Pink while I eat fried chicken and chips (yes chips, sorry). I really like this music but I think Mint finds it a bit loud.
First tour day starts with 5 hours in National Museum. Could have spent considerably more time here there is so much to see. One building charts the history of Thailand with its kings and wars, all very well presented in Thai and English. The main building is an old palace comprising a maze of rooms, each dedicated to a class of exhibits. The ivory room has many beautifully carved tusks, some huge, very sad for the elephants of course but a striking art form nonetheless.
Another building, like a large barn, contains chariots used by kings and royalty for carrying urns containing the ashes of cremated royalty through the city in funeral processions. Two of the chariots are an incredible size, multi-tiered in pyramid shape with big wheels and reaching up to the very high ceiling, they are 15 metres long and over 11 m high. Very impressive structures.
Next on to Wat Pho, a giant Buddha lying down on his side, covered in gold he must be 50 m long and 10 m high at the head. It chucks it down with rain while we are in here creating a moat all around temple, have to wait for rain to stop then take shoes off and roll up trousers to paddle back to street.
A very late lunch is in a roadside establishment, basically a tarp over scaffolding frame with a lady cooking in a sort of trolley. I have rice, chicken and other stuff in a bowl, it is very hot and tasty. It is raining again while we are in here, they are poking the roof to dislodge water collecting in it.
Now we take ferry across the main river through Bangkok to see another temple and take silly photos where you put your face through a hole in the back of a figure with colourful costume painted on the front.
Back on the ferry to visit a Buddhist shrine, buying flowers with candles and incense sticks for offering to Buddha and making wishes.
Now we are walking for a mile or so and get caught in prolonged heavy rain. We are very wet when we reach canal ferry 'bus stop'. The ferry boat is like our canal barges about the same size and dimensions but with a big motor. What a trip this is - pouring with rain in a fast barge packed with about 100 commuters going home, rocking and rolling as we pass others going the opposite way in these narrow canals, around corners and under bridges, stopping at 'stations' where some passengers leap out but ever more squeeze in, it's a miracle no-one falls into the water. I get glimpses of shack-like homes along the edges of the canals with muli-storey blocks towering above them, but can't see much due to canvas side sheets hauled up by the nearest passenger to try to keep the rain out. Incredibly there is a Muslim lady in her pure white robes with Thai men doing their best to keep her and the rest of us moderately dry (although we are already soaked). A memorable experience that I would like to repeat on a dry day when I would see more.
This evening I am taken to a real Thai restaurant. A large scaffolding structure with sheeting keeps most of the rain out (yes it is raining again). Mints cousin Mam works here, she runs up and is obviously delighted to see us. A single performer with a guitar on a very dodgy looking stage is singing Thai songs. The food is superb. I especially enjoy the soup with seaweed and all sorts of stuff in it. Delicious.
Tonight I sleep like a baby.
All the Best to you all,
John
Monday, May 25, 2009
Saturday, February 07, 2009
English Tea House & Borneo Jungle Mon2 - Fri6 Feb09
English Tea House & Borneo Jungle Mon2 - Fri6 Feb09
Yes, I paid a visit to the English Tea House. It is a restaurant on top of a hill overlooking Sandakan. I had shoulder of lamb Malaysian style, a bit tough but fully compensated by superb sauce. Then blueberry and Lychee crumble with custard, yes custard, delicious. They also make an excellent cup of tea (a rarity out here). Chatted with Michelle the waitress who has worked there since it opened 7 years ago and has 4 children, all girls.
Now I am going to Bilit Lodge on the edge of the Knabatangan River in the rainforest/jungle with Ray and his wife Hamdia, who is very pretty. Hamdia was brought up just down river from the Lodge and will stay with her mother who still lives there. On the way we stop for lunch at the restaurant in Sepilok Jungle Resort and I meet Ray's 'big boss', John Lin who is also a local leader. He is getting ready to travel to Sandakan Airport to be a part of the delegation to meet The Sultan of Brunei who, with his family, is paying a visit to the area. The authorities have put up thousands of flags to welcome them.
Next we have a 2 and half hours drive, through mainly Palm Oil plantations, to the bank of the Knabatangan River. Now we are deep in the rainforest. There are many trees here and it is raining. We cross the river in a small totally open motor boat which has planks of wood across it to seat 8. There are only 3 of us plus bags so plenty of room. The Lodge is a series of timber buildings joined by a long raised wooden walkway under which there is a lot of water overflowing from the river. Right next to the edge of the river is the dining area with wooden tables and benches and very welcome tea and coffee. Everything is built on stilts but the water is not far from the bottom of some of the walkways and the ground floor of a storage building. All of the people here are very happy and friendly. There are boatmen, guides, the cook, cleaners and general helpers. Some of their wives and children are there sometimes, making it a family atmosphere. This is a great place to be.
However it is raining. February is between the rainy winter season and dry summer so we are a bit unlucky but press on anyway with the trips. First we go down river in the same boat, me and Ray, 2 Swedish girls and 2 grey-haired Italian guys. This river is 530 km long and about 100 metres wide just here. It is quite fast flowing with much debris, logs and other bits of trees whizzing by. In the trees we see 2 families of Long Tailed Macaques, 2 families of Proboscis Monkeys and a Pygmy Borneo Elephant (the monkeys were in the trees, not the elephant). It is raining so didn't take many photos but got a few good ones. Then back to Bilit Lodge for dinner, basic Malaysian but very tasty and welcome. I chat to the girls, they are 22 and 26 and on a six month self organised tour of Asia. Their next stop is Bali.
Next day we are up and ready at 6am. Sadly the Swedish girls have departed, they arrived a day earlier than us. This time the boat goes up river and turns off into a very narrow waterway into the jungle. We dodge branches and vines, going very slowly, we eventually get to a large lake called Oxbow because it is shaped like an ox's horns. Around the lake we see more Macaques in small groups in the trees, also a Serpent Eagle and several Snake Birds (they have long necks). Going back through the waterway, we have to duck under a very large spider waiting for prey in the middle of it's web. Back to the river and the Lodge for breakfast.
For our second trip today, we go upriver again but this time we are dropped of on the bank and have to walk for an hour to the lake. Led by Ray, then me and the 2 Italians and a helper bringing up the rear. Well, it is very wet and muddy. We have all hired wellies and leech proof socks but the mud and water is up to the tops of our boots. Ray looses a boot 3 times finding the best route, stuck in the mud. At one point, he can't find a way around a large puddle with thick jungle either side, so he cuts down a tree (he has a very sharp knife, they were headhunters until quite recently in this area) and lays it across the puddle and we have to balance across it. Along the way we see huge millipedes, long thin ones maybe 30 cm/1 ft long and short fat ones 2 inches diameter. They are not edible. More spiders, and we have to keep checking for leeches. They can jump apparently, can be small or quite large and they feed on your blood. You feel a sharp prick when they start. When we got to the lake we all had to take our shirts off to check for leeches, so was sorry the Swedish girls weren't there for me to assist them in this task. I had 4, all on my clothes fortunately, although one of them is in my pocket and was attached to my camera. You have to pull really hard to get them off. Now we have a picnic lunch on a timber platform by the lake, vegetable rice, chicken and fish. I chat to the Italians, I think they are a couple, they have been travelling the world for 25 years, six months travelling, six months working to pay for it. Next onto the boat for the trip back to the Lodge and free time which I use to catch up on some sleep.
The third boat trip today (5th in all including the first river crossing), we go down river. It is still raining, heavily now, and the Italians decide to give this one a miss but we have 2 young girls, children of Lodge workers, with us. We see more Proboscis and Macaque monkeys and get very wet! Then dinner and an early night. We have a 5am departure time tomorrow, extra early because we have heard that there is a bridge down on the road back to Sandakan.
Next morning, Ray, Hamdiah and me are collected by the boatman (the same one throughout, a great guy, always happy and helpful). By now, much of the walkway, the landing stage and the ground floor of the store are all under water. We board the boat from a higher part of the walkway, the boat having been brought in across what should be land. We are taken across the now very swollen river to the car which fortunately is a 4x4, and make good time until we get to the stationery queue back from the broken bridge not far from Sandakan. I need to get to the airport for my flight back to Kuala Lumpur and there is obviously no way we are going to get the car through to the broken bridge, let alone across it. So Ray organises someone to meet us on the other side, we get my bags and walk! The bridge is easy to walk across, in fact the 4x4 could have made it but might have done more damage in the process. We meet the other car, where I have to say a sad farewell to Ray and Hamdiah and I am driven to Sandakan Airport.
Now I am in Bangkok on the way back to England. My 6 week trip is nearly over. I am looking forward to seeing everyone again, especially Leon.
All the Best,
John
Yes, I paid a visit to the English Tea House. It is a restaurant on top of a hill overlooking Sandakan. I had shoulder of lamb Malaysian style, a bit tough but fully compensated by superb sauce. Then blueberry and Lychee crumble with custard, yes custard, delicious. They also make an excellent cup of tea (a rarity out here). Chatted with Michelle the waitress who has worked there since it opened 7 years ago and has 4 children, all girls.
Now I am going to Bilit Lodge on the edge of the Knabatangan River in the rainforest/jungle with Ray and his wife Hamdia, who is very pretty. Hamdia was brought up just down river from the Lodge and will stay with her mother who still lives there. On the way we stop for lunch at the restaurant in Sepilok Jungle Resort and I meet Ray's 'big boss', John Lin who is also a local leader. He is getting ready to travel to Sandakan Airport to be a part of the delegation to meet The Sultan of Brunei who, with his family, is paying a visit to the area. The authorities have put up thousands of flags to welcome them.
Next we have a 2 and half hours drive, through mainly Palm Oil plantations, to the bank of the Knabatangan River. Now we are deep in the rainforest. There are many trees here and it is raining. We cross the river in a small totally open motor boat which has planks of wood across it to seat 8. There are only 3 of us plus bags so plenty of room. The Lodge is a series of timber buildings joined by a long raised wooden walkway under which there is a lot of water overflowing from the river. Right next to the edge of the river is the dining area with wooden tables and benches and very welcome tea and coffee. Everything is built on stilts but the water is not far from the bottom of some of the walkways and the ground floor of a storage building. All of the people here are very happy and friendly. There are boatmen, guides, the cook, cleaners and general helpers. Some of their wives and children are there sometimes, making it a family atmosphere. This is a great place to be.
However it is raining. February is between the rainy winter season and dry summer so we are a bit unlucky but press on anyway with the trips. First we go down river in the same boat, me and Ray, 2 Swedish girls and 2 grey-haired Italian guys. This river is 530 km long and about 100 metres wide just here. It is quite fast flowing with much debris, logs and other bits of trees whizzing by. In the trees we see 2 families of Long Tailed Macaques, 2 families of Proboscis Monkeys and a Pygmy Borneo Elephant (the monkeys were in the trees, not the elephant). It is raining so didn't take many photos but got a few good ones. Then back to Bilit Lodge for dinner, basic Malaysian but very tasty and welcome. I chat to the girls, they are 22 and 26 and on a six month self organised tour of Asia. Their next stop is Bali.
Next day we are up and ready at 6am. Sadly the Swedish girls have departed, they arrived a day earlier than us. This time the boat goes up river and turns off into a very narrow waterway into the jungle. We dodge branches and vines, going very slowly, we eventually get to a large lake called Oxbow because it is shaped like an ox's horns. Around the lake we see more Macaques in small groups in the trees, also a Serpent Eagle and several Snake Birds (they have long necks). Going back through the waterway, we have to duck under a very large spider waiting for prey in the middle of it's web. Back to the river and the Lodge for breakfast.
For our second trip today, we go upriver again but this time we are dropped of on the bank and have to walk for an hour to the lake. Led by Ray, then me and the 2 Italians and a helper bringing up the rear. Well, it is very wet and muddy. We have all hired wellies and leech proof socks but the mud and water is up to the tops of our boots. Ray looses a boot 3 times finding the best route, stuck in the mud. At one point, he can't find a way around a large puddle with thick jungle either side, so he cuts down a tree (he has a very sharp knife, they were headhunters until quite recently in this area) and lays it across the puddle and we have to balance across it. Along the way we see huge millipedes, long thin ones maybe 30 cm/1 ft long and short fat ones 2 inches diameter. They are not edible. More spiders, and we have to keep checking for leeches. They can jump apparently, can be small or quite large and they feed on your blood. You feel a sharp prick when they start. When we got to the lake we all had to take our shirts off to check for leeches, so was sorry the Swedish girls weren't there for me to assist them in this task. I had 4, all on my clothes fortunately, although one of them is in my pocket and was attached to my camera. You have to pull really hard to get them off. Now we have a picnic lunch on a timber platform by the lake, vegetable rice, chicken and fish. I chat to the Italians, I think they are a couple, they have been travelling the world for 25 years, six months travelling, six months working to pay for it. Next onto the boat for the trip back to the Lodge and free time which I use to catch up on some sleep.
The third boat trip today (5th in all including the first river crossing), we go down river. It is still raining, heavily now, and the Italians decide to give this one a miss but we have 2 young girls, children of Lodge workers, with us. We see more Proboscis and Macaque monkeys and get very wet! Then dinner and an early night. We have a 5am departure time tomorrow, extra early because we have heard that there is a bridge down on the road back to Sandakan.
Next morning, Ray, Hamdiah and me are collected by the boatman (the same one throughout, a great guy, always happy and helpful). By now, much of the walkway, the landing stage and the ground floor of the store are all under water. We board the boat from a higher part of the walkway, the boat having been brought in across what should be land. We are taken across the now very swollen river to the car which fortunately is a 4x4, and make good time until we get to the stationery queue back from the broken bridge not far from Sandakan. I need to get to the airport for my flight back to Kuala Lumpur and there is obviously no way we are going to get the car through to the broken bridge, let alone across it. So Ray organises someone to meet us on the other side, we get my bags and walk! The bridge is easy to walk across, in fact the 4x4 could have made it but might have done more damage in the process. We meet the other car, where I have to say a sad farewell to Ray and Hamdiah and I am driven to Sandakan Airport.
Now I am in Bangkok on the way back to England. My 6 week trip is nearly over. I am looking forward to seeing everyone again, especially Leon.
All the Best,
John
Tuesday, February 03, 2009
Sandakan - Sepilok - Tues 3 Feb 09
Sandakan - Sepilok - Tues 3 Feb 09
Collected on time 8.30 this morning and driven to Sepilok Orang Utan Rehabilitation Centre. My guide is Ray 32, a local Malay man recently married who speaks good English clearly and proved to be excellent. At the Centre, we walk quite a long way through the forest on a raised timber-built walkway to a viewing area. We can see man-made platforms about 10ft up several trees with ropes linking the trees. Then Ray points out an Orang Utan sitting partly behind a tree. Gradually, more appear as feeding time approaches. Higher in the trees, Long Tailed Macaques and Pig Tailed Macaques also wait and play. (They are nothing to do with the Centre, just wild monkeys making the most of a food opportunity).
Gradually, the whole area gets more crowded - there are 6 Orang Utans, 2 adult males and 2 adult females each with a baby clinging to her. About 15 Macaques are jostling for position as the 2 Rangers arrive with the food on the nearest platform to the viewing area, fruit and sugar cane. While the OUs feed, the Macaques try to steal stuff, from under the platforms with their hands appearing through the planks and over the edge of the platform, and running on and off as the Rangers try to shoo them away. The Orang Utans take no notice of the Macaques though, they just contentedly munch away with the Rangers sitting next to them. Got some good photos and (hopefully) video footage. Eventually, the OUs have had enough, and swing back on the ropes to their nests hidden away and the Macaques finish the rest of the fruit and cane. By this time, the Rangers are throwing food to the several females carrying babies. All very moving and inspiring stuff.
Next to the shop where I buy 2 very small T shirts and shorts for Leon and he or she who has yet to arrive (the latter blue top and pink shorts just about covers it I think). Then the video show - brilliant I thought so got a copy on DVD, let me know if you want to watch it. Briefly met a Chinese lady with her daughter whilst waiting for the film to start. Interestingly, the lady who sold the DVD to me is English. I asked her how she came to be here, she was a journalist who, some years ago, came to Sepilok as a tourist and was so inspired she joined the UK end of the organisation and started doing talks and presentations on the UK sponsored charity that supports the Centre. One day they asked her if she would like to help in the Centre, so now she comes here for 3 months every year and has changed her UK career to conservation work.
Anyway, back to the tour, when I booked it in Sandakan, I chose the full day for 220 rather than half day for 140 (5 = 1 pound) and this proved to be an inspired choice because lunch is included. It was excellent, coleslaw to start, chicken, greens and chips for main course, then fruit and coffee. Basic, but I really enjoyed it.
Next Ray shows me around the centre and the nearby Jungle Resort. First we see a Pied Hornbill high up in the trees making a terrible racket. I get some really good pictures with the light grey cloudy sky as background. Later we hear but do not see the Rhinoceros Hornbill, a different sound altogether. Later again, I hear another sound but when I ask Ray what this is, he tells me it is a car alarm. The Jungle Resort is definitely the place to stay if any of you are thinking of coming (rather than Sandakan which is not geared up for tourists, it is really an industrial town (oil and cars)). The Resort is fairly newly built, including accommodation, a large outdoor pool and relaxing area and brand new restaurant and spa. Come in April/May (or maybe March) though, to avoid the rainy season which we are now coming to the end of.
Now we go back to the viewing area for the 3pm feed. Same routine but it is raining so only one of the males appears, the other presumably not wanting to get his hair wet in the rain-forest. The male is called Mirico, and the 2 females Britney and Clenea. Towards the end of this session, a large Macaque suddenly appears on the walkway fence coming towards us. It walks past as if we are not there. Got some good photos. Then lots of them come up among the tourists. They can be aggressive (the Macaques) so we are told not to make eye contact or smile and show our teeth or they may attack.
Then an Orang Utan appears, also walking along the walkway. She is a pregnant female that we have not seen before. She also ignores us and goes by me only inches away as I take photos of her. Then she sits on top of a post, almost as if posing. More excellent photos and then just watch her and enjoy her company. Eventually we are shooed away by Rangers as it is time to close the Centre and leave the apes in peace.
What a great day, much helped by Ray. He is collecting me again tomorrow for the Jungle river 'cruise' and treks , a 2 day and night trip. Might be a couple of days before I can report on this.
Take care everyone,
John
Collected on time 8.30 this morning and driven to Sepilok Orang Utan Rehabilitation Centre. My guide is Ray 32, a local Malay man recently married who speaks good English clearly and proved to be excellent. At the Centre, we walk quite a long way through the forest on a raised timber-built walkway to a viewing area. We can see man-made platforms about 10ft up several trees with ropes linking the trees. Then Ray points out an Orang Utan sitting partly behind a tree. Gradually, more appear as feeding time approaches. Higher in the trees, Long Tailed Macaques and Pig Tailed Macaques also wait and play. (They are nothing to do with the Centre, just wild monkeys making the most of a food opportunity).
Gradually, the whole area gets more crowded - there are 6 Orang Utans, 2 adult males and 2 adult females each with a baby clinging to her. About 15 Macaques are jostling for position as the 2 Rangers arrive with the food on the nearest platform to the viewing area, fruit and sugar cane. While the OUs feed, the Macaques try to steal stuff, from under the platforms with their hands appearing through the planks and over the edge of the platform, and running on and off as the Rangers try to shoo them away. The Orang Utans take no notice of the Macaques though, they just contentedly munch away with the Rangers sitting next to them. Got some good photos and (hopefully) video footage. Eventually, the OUs have had enough, and swing back on the ropes to their nests hidden away and the Macaques finish the rest of the fruit and cane. By this time, the Rangers are throwing food to the several females carrying babies. All very moving and inspiring stuff.
Next to the shop where I buy 2 very small T shirts and shorts for Leon and he or she who has yet to arrive (the latter blue top and pink shorts just about covers it I think). Then the video show - brilliant I thought so got a copy on DVD, let me know if you want to watch it. Briefly met a Chinese lady with her daughter whilst waiting for the film to start. Interestingly, the lady who sold the DVD to me is English. I asked her how she came to be here, she was a journalist who, some years ago, came to Sepilok as a tourist and was so inspired she joined the UK end of the organisation and started doing talks and presentations on the UK sponsored charity that supports the Centre. One day they asked her if she would like to help in the Centre, so now she comes here for 3 months every year and has changed her UK career to conservation work.
Anyway, back to the tour, when I booked it in Sandakan, I chose the full day for 220 rather than half day for 140 (5 = 1 pound) and this proved to be an inspired choice because lunch is included. It was excellent, coleslaw to start, chicken, greens and chips for main course, then fruit and coffee. Basic, but I really enjoyed it.
Next Ray shows me around the centre and the nearby Jungle Resort. First we see a Pied Hornbill high up in the trees making a terrible racket. I get some really good pictures with the light grey cloudy sky as background. Later we hear but do not see the Rhinoceros Hornbill, a different sound altogether. Later again, I hear another sound but when I ask Ray what this is, he tells me it is a car alarm. The Jungle Resort is definitely the place to stay if any of you are thinking of coming (rather than Sandakan which is not geared up for tourists, it is really an industrial town (oil and cars)). The Resort is fairly newly built, including accommodation, a large outdoor pool and relaxing area and brand new restaurant and spa. Come in April/May (or maybe March) though, to avoid the rainy season which we are now coming to the end of.
Now we go back to the viewing area for the 3pm feed. Same routine but it is raining so only one of the males appears, the other presumably not wanting to get his hair wet in the rain-forest. The male is called Mirico, and the 2 females Britney and Clenea. Towards the end of this session, a large Macaque suddenly appears on the walkway fence coming towards us. It walks past as if we are not there. Got some good photos. Then lots of them come up among the tourists. They can be aggressive (the Macaques) so we are told not to make eye contact or smile and show our teeth or they may attack.
Then an Orang Utan appears, also walking along the walkway. She is a pregnant female that we have not seen before. She also ignores us and goes by me only inches away as I take photos of her. Then she sits on top of a post, almost as if posing. More excellent photos and then just watch her and enjoy her company. Eventually we are shooed away by Rangers as it is time to close the Centre and leave the apes in peace.
What a great day, much helped by Ray. He is collecting me again tomorrow for the Jungle river 'cruise' and treks , a 2 day and night trip. Might be a couple of days before I can report on this.
Take care everyone,
John
Sunday, February 01, 2009
Sandakan, E Malaysia (N E Borneo) 2 Feb 09
Sandakan, E Malasia (N E Borneo) 2 Feb 09
Arrived here Saturday morning from KL with no problems, spent the rest of the day wandering around Sandakan. The town was razed during the war and rebuilt afterwards with blocks of flats and shops at street level in a grid system. Now nearly 60 years old they are looking rather the worse for wear. However there is a very large central market, a concrete building covering maybe 1 acre. It is a busy bustling place, and at one end, a wet fish section with the biggest fish you can imagine, all shapes and colours. I think this might turn out to be the most interesting place in the town! Found the Sepilok Adventure Shop and booked myself on 3 tours.
Sunday, collected at 9am for boat ride to 'Turtle Island'. The 'speed boat' was an extremely basic affair, not really suited to even the moderately rough seas we encountered in the Sula sea, but the 9 of us stoically survived the 1 hour 'ride'. After checking into room on 'turtle' island (actually Selingan Island), we had the rest of the day to ourselves. What can you do on a sandy tropical island with palm trees and warm blue sea all around? So we just had to swim and lie on the beach and read books all day. I went snorkeling but saved the 5 pounds hire fee by using my goggles. Just as well as there wasn't much to see, just a few solitary fish, there were more fish off the Phuket beach, shoals of them there. Walked all around the island, a beautiful place, then lunch which was white rice with chicken and greens, very good. Fell asleep on the beach in the afternoon in the shade of a ground level palm tree, then evening meal, rice and fish and greens also very good. Then a long wait before being taken down to the beach at 10pm by a Ranger. Didn't waste this time though, chatted with 2 girls from Estonia (a civil servant and an accountant!), a couple from Manchester(event organisers), an American couple and 2 girls from Bridgend and Sussex.
The management and organisation of the 3 islands here, where Green and Hawksbill Turtles lay their eggs, is well structured and sophisticated. Every turtle that comes to the beach is tagged and logged. Its eggs are counted and removed to be re-buried in a hatchery where they and the hatchlings are protected from predators, such as rats and birds and humans (turtle eggs are still openly available in some countries markets). The hatchlings from each turtle's clutch of eggs are counted, there is an 80% success rate. Then the hatchlings are released in bunches on the beach near the sea, avoiding the perilous journey from the nest across the beach. Sadly, a very small percentage survive to adulthood, but the work of the Rangers must be having some effect to help these endangered species.
We were taken by the Ranger to see a turtle laying her eggs in the hole she had dug, an incredible sight. She was big (the turtle), over a metre long and nearly as wide. The Ranger scooped the eggs out into a bucket. When she had finished, the turtle pushed sand back to cover the (empty) hole. We left her to rest before making her dummy hole (to fool predators) and shuffle back to the sea.
Next we watch the Ranger bury the eggs in the hatchery, in a hole marked with the date, turtle ID and number of eggs (73 in this clutch). Lastly we go down to the shore to watch that evening's hatchlings being released, they are funny to watch as they waddle the few feet down the sand into the sea. Again, an incredible sight.
Bed at 11pm, up for breakfast this morning at 6.30, on the 'speedboat' for another hour's torture at 7, back in hotel in Sandakan at 8.30, then went back to sleep again! The whole thing a memorable experience.
Orang-utans tomorrow, All the Best, John
Arrived here Saturday morning from KL with no problems, spent the rest of the day wandering around Sandakan. The town was razed during the war and rebuilt afterwards with blocks of flats and shops at street level in a grid system. Now nearly 60 years old they are looking rather the worse for wear. However there is a very large central market, a concrete building covering maybe 1 acre. It is a busy bustling place, and at one end, a wet fish section with the biggest fish you can imagine, all shapes and colours. I think this might turn out to be the most interesting place in the town! Found the Sepilok Adventure Shop and booked myself on 3 tours.
Sunday, collected at 9am for boat ride to 'Turtle Island'. The 'speed boat' was an extremely basic affair, not really suited to even the moderately rough seas we encountered in the Sula sea, but the 9 of us stoically survived the 1 hour 'ride'. After checking into room on 'turtle' island (actually Selingan Island), we had the rest of the day to ourselves. What can you do on a sandy tropical island with palm trees and warm blue sea all around? So we just had to swim and lie on the beach and read books all day. I went snorkeling but saved the 5 pounds hire fee by using my goggles. Just as well as there wasn't much to see, just a few solitary fish, there were more fish off the Phuket beach, shoals of them there. Walked all around the island, a beautiful place, then lunch which was white rice with chicken and greens, very good. Fell asleep on the beach in the afternoon in the shade of a ground level palm tree, then evening meal, rice and fish and greens also very good. Then a long wait before being taken down to the beach at 10pm by a Ranger. Didn't waste this time though, chatted with 2 girls from Estonia (a civil servant and an accountant!), a couple from Manchester(event organisers), an American couple and 2 girls from Bridgend and Sussex.
The management and organisation of the 3 islands here, where Green and Hawksbill Turtles lay their eggs, is well structured and sophisticated. Every turtle that comes to the beach is tagged and logged. Its eggs are counted and removed to be re-buried in a hatchery where they and the hatchlings are protected from predators, such as rats and birds and humans (turtle eggs are still openly available in some countries markets). The hatchlings from each turtle's clutch of eggs are counted, there is an 80% success rate. Then the hatchlings are released in bunches on the beach near the sea, avoiding the perilous journey from the nest across the beach. Sadly, a very small percentage survive to adulthood, but the work of the Rangers must be having some effect to help these endangered species.
We were taken by the Ranger to see a turtle laying her eggs in the hole she had dug, an incredible sight. She was big (the turtle), over a metre long and nearly as wide. The Ranger scooped the eggs out into a bucket. When she had finished, the turtle pushed sand back to cover the (empty) hole. We left her to rest before making her dummy hole (to fool predators) and shuffle back to the sea.
Next we watch the Ranger bury the eggs in the hatchery, in a hole marked with the date, turtle ID and number of eggs (73 in this clutch). Lastly we go down to the shore to watch that evening's hatchlings being released, they are funny to watch as they waddle the few feet down the sand into the sea. Again, an incredible sight.
Bed at 11pm, up for breakfast this morning at 6.30, on the 'speedboat' for another hour's torture at 7, back in hotel in Sandakan at 8.30, then went back to sleep again! The whole thing a memorable experience.
Orang-utans tomorrow, All the Best, John
Friday, January 30, 2009
Kuala Lumpar Fri 30 Jan 09
Kuala Lumpar Fri 30 Jan 09
Well here I am in Kuala Lumpar, the capital city of Malaysia, at the end of my 3rd and last day here.
The flights from Phuket had to be changed but then went well. Fascinating large model display of serpents and gods at Bankok airport.
Taxi driver from KL airport to hotel didn't stop talking, very proud of his country, especially low income tax!
Day 1 (Wednesday) here, took City Tour, first stop Petronas Twin Towers, now the 4th tallest building in the world (tallest is in Dubai if you remember from my visit there). Next a gift shop?!, then Beryl's Chocolate Factory - interesting charts explaining history and production of chocolate, bought Beryls dark chocolate with mango filling for Jo/Wayne and Philip/Faye.
Next to King's Palace - Here the King is a sultan appointed for 5 years then replaced by another.
Then to the museum, a relatively new building necessitated by the americans accidentally bombing and completely destroying the old one and all its contents. They were aiming for the railway line being used by the invading japanese and missed. The new museum is very impressive, including sections on the creation of land masses and the continents as they are now, rocks, politics and religions (mainly Islam here, but government says religion is an individual thing, not a state matter). Briefly chatted to Korean father there with his family. Interestingly, he/they work and live in Ho Chi Minh City (Saigon), Vietnam.
Next on to The National Monument to fallen soldiers in 3 wars, 1st and 2nd world wars and the 1948 - 60 war against communism. Designed by an americann and built in 1965, it is an impressive and fitting memorial. Chatted here with a lady from Mumbai (Bombay) as we returned to the bus.
I arranged for the bus to drop me in the Colonial District next to Mendeka Square which has a beautifully tended english cricket ground on which, in a ceremony in 1957, Malaysia formally became independant from Britain. Around the Square is an eccentric collection of colonial-era buildings, including British and the fashionable Moorish style of the time. I spent the rest of the evening wandering around Chinatown or 'Little China', including Jalan Pataling which is a long covered street packed with stalls down the middle and small shops along the sides selling everything you can think of. There is a teriffic buzz about the whole area, a great atmosphere.
Day 2 (Thursday) my main focus is Little India, the commercial centre of KL's Indian community. This area also has a covered street market, although there is a predominance in the shops for garments and materials, especially for saris and songkets, also jewelry retailers. Even busier than Little China, here there is a much greater concentration of locals with fewer tourists. Sat in a street food 'hall' surrounded by locals voraciously consuming rice and chicken with their fingers. It is just a large piece of street covered with a tin roof, with food stalls along 2 sides cooking various local dishes and tables and chairs in the middle. A constant stream of customers make for a non-stop bubbling atmosphere, I guess a major meeting place in this Little India. I just had a cold green drink, no idea what it is but looks and tastes good.
Next I see some of the main buildings nearby, The Jamek Mosque, St Mary's Cathedral, The Royal Selangar Club (very British) the Flagpole (tallest in the world) and the Central Market. The last is a huge 1920s brick building updated to house a miriad of small shops selling crafts, clothes, souveners etc - nicely done although clearly aimed at tourists.
Day3 (Friday) visited Bukit Nanas Forest Reserve, a section of tropical forest preserved in the centre of the city in what they call the 'Golden Triangle'. I took the forest walk to the Menara Tower, the 5th? tallest telecom tower in the world built on a hill in the middle of the forest. Nearby back in the forest, I found the Arboretum which turned out to be a well marked path through a section of trees with loads of information on plaques alongside dozens of trees, bushes, undergrowth and fungii, a botanists heaven. Also walked around a herbal garden and the info. centre. 43% of Peninsula Malaysia is covered with tropical forest. Next spent some time wandering various trails (actually muddy paths but well marked) through the forest. Also 'Bamboo Walk' along which there are several massive bamboo bushes. All very relaxing. At one point in the depths of the forest, noises in the branches above made me look up to see a troup of monkeys leaping about and playing in the trees. I counted about 8 plus 2 babies just learning how to negotiate the branches. Stood there for ages watching them, they took no notice of me.
Now back at the hotel, got to prepare for 7.15am flight to Borneo tomorrow morning.
All the Best,
John
Well here I am in Kuala Lumpar, the capital city of Malaysia, at the end of my 3rd and last day here.
The flights from Phuket had to be changed but then went well. Fascinating large model display of serpents and gods at Bankok airport.
Taxi driver from KL airport to hotel didn't stop talking, very proud of his country, especially low income tax!
Day 1 (Wednesday) here, took City Tour, first stop Petronas Twin Towers, now the 4th tallest building in the world (tallest is in Dubai if you remember from my visit there). Next a gift shop?!, then Beryl's Chocolate Factory - interesting charts explaining history and production of chocolate, bought Beryls dark chocolate with mango filling for Jo/Wayne and Philip/Faye.
Next to King's Palace - Here the King is a sultan appointed for 5 years then replaced by another.
Then to the museum, a relatively new building necessitated by the americans accidentally bombing and completely destroying the old one and all its contents. They were aiming for the railway line being used by the invading japanese and missed. The new museum is very impressive, including sections on the creation of land masses and the continents as they are now, rocks, politics and religions (mainly Islam here, but government says religion is an individual thing, not a state matter). Briefly chatted to Korean father there with his family. Interestingly, he/they work and live in Ho Chi Minh City (Saigon), Vietnam.
Next on to The National Monument to fallen soldiers in 3 wars, 1st and 2nd world wars and the 1948 - 60 war against communism. Designed by an americann and built in 1965, it is an impressive and fitting memorial. Chatted here with a lady from Mumbai (Bombay) as we returned to the bus.
I arranged for the bus to drop me in the Colonial District next to Mendeka Square which has a beautifully tended english cricket ground on which, in a ceremony in 1957, Malaysia formally became independant from Britain. Around the Square is an eccentric collection of colonial-era buildings, including British and the fashionable Moorish style of the time. I spent the rest of the evening wandering around Chinatown or 'Little China', including Jalan Pataling which is a long covered street packed with stalls down the middle and small shops along the sides selling everything you can think of. There is a teriffic buzz about the whole area, a great atmosphere.
Day 2 (Thursday) my main focus is Little India, the commercial centre of KL's Indian community. This area also has a covered street market, although there is a predominance in the shops for garments and materials, especially for saris and songkets, also jewelry retailers. Even busier than Little China, here there is a much greater concentration of locals with fewer tourists. Sat in a street food 'hall' surrounded by locals voraciously consuming rice and chicken with their fingers. It is just a large piece of street covered with a tin roof, with food stalls along 2 sides cooking various local dishes and tables and chairs in the middle. A constant stream of customers make for a non-stop bubbling atmosphere, I guess a major meeting place in this Little India. I just had a cold green drink, no idea what it is but looks and tastes good.
Next I see some of the main buildings nearby, The Jamek Mosque, St Mary's Cathedral, The Royal Selangar Club (very British) the Flagpole (tallest in the world) and the Central Market. The last is a huge 1920s brick building updated to house a miriad of small shops selling crafts, clothes, souveners etc - nicely done although clearly aimed at tourists.
Day3 (Friday) visited Bukit Nanas Forest Reserve, a section of tropical forest preserved in the centre of the city in what they call the 'Golden Triangle'. I took the forest walk to the Menara Tower, the 5th? tallest telecom tower in the world built on a hill in the middle of the forest. Nearby back in the forest, I found the Arboretum which turned out to be a well marked path through a section of trees with loads of information on plaques alongside dozens of trees, bushes, undergrowth and fungii, a botanists heaven. Also walked around a herbal garden and the info. centre. 43% of Peninsula Malaysia is covered with tropical forest. Next spent some time wandering various trails (actually muddy paths but well marked) through the forest. Also 'Bamboo Walk' along which there are several massive bamboo bushes. All very relaxing. At one point in the depths of the forest, noises in the branches above made me look up to see a troup of monkeys leaping about and playing in the trees. I counted about 8 plus 2 babies just learning how to negotiate the branches. Stood there for ages watching them, they took no notice of me.
Now back at the hotel, got to prepare for 7.15am flight to Borneo tomorrow morning.
All the Best,
John
Sunday, January 25, 2009
Phuket 26 Jan 09
Phuket 26 Jan o9
Been here over 3 very pleasant and enjoyable weeks now.
Not much to report, just beach, meals, bar, bed, beach, meals, bar....etc..
Except last Friday, An took a day off, we went to a 'spa' on the edge of nearby Kata, almost in the jungle. Alternately in the sauna and cool plunge pool, then a Thai massage which is mostly a muscle stretching thing, pulling you in so many ways you wouldn't imagine or think possible. Very invigorating though. Then, after visiting some friends, we drive about 12 k to a place called Phromthep Cape. This is a high point near the sea with beautiful views of the coastline and several islands. It is a favourite spot for watching the sunrise and sunset, we got some excellent pictures. Also here is a Buddhist shrine to which people bring elephants as gifts to Buddha. (Carved, mostly wooden elephants, not real ones). Nearby is a statue of a 19th century Siamese prince who trained with the British Royal Navy then returned to Siam to be in charge of and update their Royal Navy. Next we visit a lighthouse museum and climb the stairs for even more views of the coastline. This is a very beautiful place.
Next we go shopping in Patong and I am pleasantly surprised to see they have a large modern shopping complex that would have sat comfortably in the centre of any British large town or city. The main difference is that everything stays open til 10pm or later here.
Had an excellent Thai meal in a restaurant that is a favourite of Ans. A very enjoyable day all round.
Tomorrow I fly to Kuala Lumpar, staying there 3 days. Next update from there.
All the Best, John
Been here over 3 very pleasant and enjoyable weeks now.
Not much to report, just beach, meals, bar, bed, beach, meals, bar....etc..
Except last Friday, An took a day off, we went to a 'spa' on the edge of nearby Kata, almost in the jungle. Alternately in the sauna and cool plunge pool, then a Thai massage which is mostly a muscle stretching thing, pulling you in so many ways you wouldn't imagine or think possible. Very invigorating though. Then, after visiting some friends, we drive about 12 k to a place called Phromthep Cape. This is a high point near the sea with beautiful views of the coastline and several islands. It is a favourite spot for watching the sunrise and sunset, we got some excellent pictures. Also here is a Buddhist shrine to which people bring elephants as gifts to Buddha. (Carved, mostly wooden elephants, not real ones). Nearby is a statue of a 19th century Siamese prince who trained with the British Royal Navy then returned to Siam to be in charge of and update their Royal Navy. Next we visit a lighthouse museum and climb the stairs for even more views of the coastline. This is a very beautiful place.
Next we go shopping in Patong and I am pleasantly surprised to see they have a large modern shopping complex that would have sat comfortably in the centre of any British large town or city. The main difference is that everything stays open til 10pm or later here.
Had an excellent Thai meal in a restaurant that is a favourite of Ans. A very enjoyable day all round.
Tomorrow I fly to Kuala Lumpar, staying there 3 days. Next update from there.
All the Best, John
Friday, January 16, 2009
Phuket Fri 16 Jan 09
Phuket Fri 16 Jan 09
Weather still perfect, very little cloud except one day with 50%. Beach superb, sea full of jellyfish but have to go in around them to cool down. Is this heaven on earth?
Had a haircut by mai, a very nice lady, (4 pounds) incl. free trimming of eye brows, nose and hairs sprouting out of ears.
Watched man mending electricity cables strung across poles by sitting on adjoining bunches of cables. Good job it wasn't raining.
Went to 'Export Fair', an annual event here, 12 - 21 January, lots of stalls, some with lovely smells, I don't normally eat from stalls but may not be able to resist next time.
Wednesday, went on day trip with An to Phang Nga Bay, another area full of beautiful islands. The main activity on this trip though was climbing from the main boat into small canoes, just me and An and the 'driver San?' then paddled literally into the cliff face of one of the islands, into very low, long, narrow cave. The rock is limestone with very jagged stuff from the sea attached to it so it was best to adhere to advice and not touch. Beautiful shapes and contours in the roof and sides of the cave. Maybe 50 metres in, we come out into a fantastic lagoon with maqngroves growing in the middle and steep, tree-lined sides going up 100/200 metres to the top of the island and blue sky above. It is called mangrove cave and is just beautiful. Got some great pictures but they will not convey the real atmosphere and beauty of this place. Noticed that the tide was coming in, this obviously was lowering the height of the tunnel/cave, I think we got out just in time, one of the last canoes to emerge back into the open sea.
Next we see James Bond Island, used in one of the 1970s movies. Then lunch on the boat and it was superb. This thai food is consistantly so good I think I am getting hooked on it.
Next to another island, Hong Island, and ,more canoeing, this time into another, larger lagoon with more towering scenery all around. Fantastic place.
Next to Lawa Island for some time on the beach and a bit of do it yourself canoeing then home. A wonderful day.
That evening, 5 of us went to Patong again, after a meal in the hilltop restaurant. Me, An, Andy, an incredibly powerful looking but very friendly (fortunately) german policeman, Alex a chef and friend of Andy, and Sa, a friend of An and Andy. We had a drink in one of the music bars with scantily clad girls dancing on the bar tops all around us, I was glad we had the girls with us for protection. Then to the same disco An and I had visited a few days ago, great music but not much variation. I think we got back at about 2.30am , not too bad.
Take care everyone, All the Best, John
Weather still perfect, very little cloud except one day with 50%. Beach superb, sea full of jellyfish but have to go in around them to cool down. Is this heaven on earth?
Had a haircut by mai, a very nice lady, (4 pounds) incl. free trimming of eye brows, nose and hairs sprouting out of ears.
Watched man mending electricity cables strung across poles by sitting on adjoining bunches of cables. Good job it wasn't raining.
Went to 'Export Fair', an annual event here, 12 - 21 January, lots of stalls, some with lovely smells, I don't normally eat from stalls but may not be able to resist next time.
Wednesday, went on day trip with An to Phang Nga Bay, another area full of beautiful islands. The main activity on this trip though was climbing from the main boat into small canoes, just me and An and the 'driver San?' then paddled literally into the cliff face of one of the islands, into very low, long, narrow cave. The rock is limestone with very jagged stuff from the sea attached to it so it was best to adhere to advice and not touch. Beautiful shapes and contours in the roof and sides of the cave. Maybe 50 metres in, we come out into a fantastic lagoon with maqngroves growing in the middle and steep, tree-lined sides going up 100/200 metres to the top of the island and blue sky above. It is called mangrove cave and is just beautiful. Got some great pictures but they will not convey the real atmosphere and beauty of this place. Noticed that the tide was coming in, this obviously was lowering the height of the tunnel/cave, I think we got out just in time, one of the last canoes to emerge back into the open sea.
Next we see James Bond Island, used in one of the 1970s movies. Then lunch on the boat and it was superb. This thai food is consistantly so good I think I am getting hooked on it.
Next to another island, Hong Island, and ,more canoeing, this time into another, larger lagoon with more towering scenery all around. Fantastic place.
Next to Lawa Island for some time on the beach and a bit of do it yourself canoeing then home. A wonderful day.
That evening, 5 of us went to Patong again, after a meal in the hilltop restaurant. Me, An, Andy, an incredibly powerful looking but very friendly (fortunately) german policeman, Alex a chef and friend of Andy, and Sa, a friend of An and Andy. We had a drink in one of the music bars with scantily clad girls dancing on the bar tops all around us, I was glad we had the girls with us for protection. Then to the same disco An and I had visited a few days ago, great music but not much variation. I think we got back at about 2.30am , not too bad.
Take care everyone, All the Best, John
Saturday, January 10, 2009
Phuket 10/1/9
Phuket 10/1/9
Sorry to hear it's been a bit cold over there. It's lovely here.
In Phuket nearly a week now, having a fairly quiet time including every afternoon on the beach. Some jelly fish in the sea though. The weather has been kind to me after, I am told, much cloud in the weeks before I arrived. I have had maybe 10% cloud except yesterday 50%, rain one evening only.
Went to nearby large town Patong with my friend from previous visits An wednesday evening having been admonished for never going there before. Patong has seemingly thousands of bars, pubs and discos. An took me to a small roadside bar run by some of her friends, then on to an irish pub where there was some excellent live music, and lastly to a wild disco with loud heavy music and a dance floor packed with thousands of revellers having a great time. We left at 2.30am but aparently it would be going on til 4 or 5am.
Friday I finally got to see Phi Phi (pronounced pe pe not fi fi) with An. A one hour speedboat ride got us to the islands by 10am where we see the beautiful landscape of Maya Bay. Huge tree covered rocks loom out of the water forming a variety of beautiful and sometimes grotesque shapes. (the place reminds me of Ha Long Bay off Vietnam although this is not of the same scale)
Then to Loh Samah and Pilch Lagoon, the latter formed by the top of a volcano long since dormant and sunk into the sea except for its topmost rim. We pass by Viking Cave in which there are ancient murals left by pirates (unlikely to have been painted by vikings I suspect).
Next we are taken to 'monkey beach' where monkeys come down from the trees and interact with tourists lured by bananas. They bit at least one tourist while we were there. Got some good photos before going back to the boat for some snorkelling. There are beautiful corals just below the surface and shoals of small brightly coloured fish swimming in packed formation around and through us. I am getting the hang of this snorkelling now, having done it for the first time off Australia. (Still not going right under though.)
Lunch was excellent, a selection of thai dishes with white rice in a beachside restaurant on another fantastically beautiful island. Lastly to Khai Nai Island where we relax on a blissful white sandy beach before returning to the Marina.
A perfect day from beginning to end.
All the Best, John
Sorry to hear it's been a bit cold over there. It's lovely here.
In Phuket nearly a week now, having a fairly quiet time including every afternoon on the beach. Some jelly fish in the sea though. The weather has been kind to me after, I am told, much cloud in the weeks before I arrived. I have had maybe 10% cloud except yesterday 50%, rain one evening only.
Went to nearby large town Patong with my friend from previous visits An wednesday evening having been admonished for never going there before. Patong has seemingly thousands of bars, pubs and discos. An took me to a small roadside bar run by some of her friends, then on to an irish pub where there was some excellent live music, and lastly to a wild disco with loud heavy music and a dance floor packed with thousands of revellers having a great time. We left at 2.30am but aparently it would be going on til 4 or 5am.
Friday I finally got to see Phi Phi (pronounced pe pe not fi fi) with An. A one hour speedboat ride got us to the islands by 10am where we see the beautiful landscape of Maya Bay. Huge tree covered rocks loom out of the water forming a variety of beautiful and sometimes grotesque shapes. (the place reminds me of Ha Long Bay off Vietnam although this is not of the same scale)
Then to Loh Samah and Pilch Lagoon, the latter formed by the top of a volcano long since dormant and sunk into the sea except for its topmost rim. We pass by Viking Cave in which there are ancient murals left by pirates (unlikely to have been painted by vikings I suspect).
Next we are taken to 'monkey beach' where monkeys come down from the trees and interact with tourists lured by bananas. They bit at least one tourist while we were there. Got some good photos before going back to the boat for some snorkelling. There are beautiful corals just below the surface and shoals of small brightly coloured fish swimming in packed formation around and through us. I am getting the hang of this snorkelling now, having done it for the first time off Australia. (Still not going right under though.)
Lunch was excellent, a selection of thai dishes with white rice in a beachside restaurant on another fantastically beautiful island. Lastly to Khai Nai Island where we relax on a blissful white sandy beach before returning to the Marina.
A perfect day from beginning to end.
All the Best, John
Wednesday, January 07, 2009
Chiang Mai to Phuket 4 January 2009
Chiang Mai to Phuket 4 January 2009
Arrived back in Chiang Mai 3 and a bit hours before plane due to take off at 08.20. Just enough time to pack and get some money from a nearby ATM. Said a sad farewell to Pon. During our event packed and marvelously enjoyable 5 days, she had told me with some pride that her grandparents are of the Shan people - she is certainly very resourceful and inteligent and I guess she has inherited this from them. I would like you all to visit her new restaurant/bar in Chiang Mai, you can get flights for around 600 pounds and I promise you it will be well worth it, Pons cooking is excellent and she is very particular about quality and cleanlines.
Arived Phuket on flight 1 hour late, now 2 out of 3 Air Asia flights delayed. (Might be Bangkok Airport at fault of course). Met at airport, driven in very smart Toyota to Green Island guest house, very friendly and comfortable.
Met Tony and Paddy and Mrs Paddy in Green Island bar, the men run a waste collection, sorting and recycling busines out of Dublin. Tony is the boss and was very interesting to talk to. Flying back the next day though after 3? weeks here. Had too many Chang beers, hangover lasted most of next day.
Planning a quiet 3 weeks here, although will probably visit fi fi highly recommended by my australian friend David on Vietnam/Cambodia tour last year.
Will report rather less often during my stay here. Flying to Malaysia 27th?
All the Best, John
Arrived back in Chiang Mai 3 and a bit hours before plane due to take off at 08.20. Just enough time to pack and get some money from a nearby ATM. Said a sad farewell to Pon. During our event packed and marvelously enjoyable 5 days, she had told me with some pride that her grandparents are of the Shan people - she is certainly very resourceful and inteligent and I guess she has inherited this from them. I would like you all to visit her new restaurant/bar in Chiang Mai, you can get flights for around 600 pounds and I promise you it will be well worth it, Pons cooking is excellent and she is very particular about quality and cleanlines.
Arived Phuket on flight 1 hour late, now 2 out of 3 Air Asia flights delayed. (Might be Bangkok Airport at fault of course). Met at airport, driven in very smart Toyota to Green Island guest house, very friendly and comfortable.
Met Tony and Paddy and Mrs Paddy in Green Island bar, the men run a waste collection, sorting and recycling busines out of Dublin. Tony is the boss and was very interesting to talk to. Flying back the next day though after 3? weeks here. Had too many Chang beers, hangover lasted most of next day.
Planning a quiet 3 weeks here, although will probably visit fi fi highly recommended by my australian friend David on Vietnam/Cambodia tour last year.
Will report rather less often during my stay here. Flying to Malaysia 27th?
All the Best, John
Tuesday, January 06, 2009
Chiang Mai 3 January 2009
Chiang Mai 3 January 2009 day5 = day 3 of tour
Up at 7am to go to Mae Hong Son market where Pon buys some ingredients for her new restaurant. Then up to Doi Kong Mu Temple 200 years old overlooking the city. A 9 piece band of child musicians in local costume is playing traditional music, a beautiful place to be. Next, at last, we have breakfast in the same restaurant by the lake. I fancied an english breakfast but they don't do those here so settled for toast, poached eggs and bacon. Also asked for fried tomatos, this caused much consternation (I think I should have said grilled) but they eventually arrived as a separate course with fried egg mixed in - delicious.
Now Pon announces we are going to visit the long neck village. We drive to a place by the river where there is a shop, a ticket office and a jetty, buy our tickets and board a longboat. For maybe half an hour, we are taken down river through stunning forest and river bank scenery, just breathtaking beauty. We arrive at the river-side village to see that all of the dwellings are timber and reed built with large thick dried leaves used as roofing material. The people of the village come originally from Myanmar (Burma) whose border is nearby. They have this tradition in which some of the girls, according to the day of the week and the month they are born, have rings fitted around their necks starting at 5 years old and gradually adding more so that their necks become extended. Apparently it is not uncomfortable for them, despite having maybe 12 inches/300mm long necks when they reach adulthood. We met several of these ladies and bought a few things from them and took some photos. The girls are very pretty and everyone seemed to be very happy in the village. We visited the village primary school where many of the posters and charts around the walls of the little clasrooms were teaching english. The main language of these people is myanmar, so the are learning 3 languages, myanmar, thai and english. We also went up to the senior school at the top of the hill. The children are on holiday but I put an entry in the visitors' book and some money in the donation box. The whole village is a charming place with friendly happy people where the long neck girls and ladies are just an integral part of their culture. Back to the boat and another entrancing journey up river, then an ice cream from the shop.
Back to Mae Hong Son and visiting to more temples 40 tear old Wat Jung Kiang and Wat Jung Khan. There are paintings and woodcarvings brought from Myanmar 100 years ago.
After a late lunch we walked around the stalls again, buying various snacks including pumpkin in a mysterious sauce, little soft round balls of varying colours in a sweet soup, battered fried onions, coconut jelly and bang mae pancake.
The day ends with a 7 hour overnight bus journey back to Chiang Mai. This was may last day in north Thailand for this trip. I will never forget this day.
All the Best, John
Up at 7am to go to Mae Hong Son market where Pon buys some ingredients for her new restaurant. Then up to Doi Kong Mu Temple 200 years old overlooking the city. A 9 piece band of child musicians in local costume is playing traditional music, a beautiful place to be. Next, at last, we have breakfast in the same restaurant by the lake. I fancied an english breakfast but they don't do those here so settled for toast, poached eggs and bacon. Also asked for fried tomatos, this caused much consternation (I think I should have said grilled) but they eventually arrived as a separate course with fried egg mixed in - delicious.
Now Pon announces we are going to visit the long neck village. We drive to a place by the river where there is a shop, a ticket office and a jetty, buy our tickets and board a longboat. For maybe half an hour, we are taken down river through stunning forest and river bank scenery, just breathtaking beauty. We arrive at the river-side village to see that all of the dwellings are timber and reed built with large thick dried leaves used as roofing material. The people of the village come originally from Myanmar (Burma) whose border is nearby. They have this tradition in which some of the girls, according to the day of the week and the month they are born, have rings fitted around their necks starting at 5 years old and gradually adding more so that their necks become extended. Apparently it is not uncomfortable for them, despite having maybe 12 inches/300mm long necks when they reach adulthood. We met several of these ladies and bought a few things from them and took some photos. The girls are very pretty and everyone seemed to be very happy in the village. We visited the village primary school where many of the posters and charts around the walls of the little clasrooms were teaching english. The main language of these people is myanmar, so the are learning 3 languages, myanmar, thai and english. We also went up to the senior school at the top of the hill. The children are on holiday but I put an entry in the visitors' book and some money in the donation box. The whole village is a charming place with friendly happy people where the long neck girls and ladies are just an integral part of their culture. Back to the boat and another entrancing journey up river, then an ice cream from the shop.
Back to Mae Hong Son and visiting to more temples 40 tear old Wat Jung Kiang and Wat Jung Khan. There are paintings and woodcarvings brought from Myanmar 100 years ago.
After a late lunch we walked around the stalls again, buying various snacks including pumpkin in a mysterious sauce, little soft round balls of varying colours in a sweet soup, battered fried onions, coconut jelly and bang mae pancake.
The day ends with a 7 hour overnight bus journey back to Chiang Mai. This was may last day in north Thailand for this trip. I will never forget this day.
All the Best, John
Monday, January 05, 2009
Chiang Mai 2 January 2009
Chiang Mai 2 January 2009 Day 4 in north Thailand, day 2 of tour
Up early and away from campsite into Pai for breakfast in roadside restaurant obviously frequented mainly by locals - noodles and soup, not sure what in it but very satisfying start to the day. Walked around slightly less crowded streets of Pai, bought matching red t shirts for Leon and me, more street entertainers, a busy happy place.
Then a visit to Num Hu Temple, on top of a mountain with breathtaking views over Pai and surrounding forest, when not shrouded in mist which gives the feeling that you are on an island floating above the clouds. After a coffee here, on to Unan village, a chinese community showing traditional homes and shops.
Now we leave Pai to travel to Mae Hong Son. On the way we stop at spectacular view points again, and also at 'Fish Cave'. I was intrigued as to what this might be, especially when we arrived to see an attractive park area with a stream ruinning through it but no sign of a cave. Followed Pon along a wooden walkway alongside the stream, over the bridge from where we could see lots of carp-like fish, called soro brook crap (carp?) fish, swimming against the current. At the end of the walkway we came to a cliff face with a hole in the rocky ground at the bottom going down to the stream flowing underneath. We could see probably 2 to 4 square metres of stream down through the hole and it was packed tightly with layers of these fish still swimming against the flow but mostly not moving position. Some of the fish were quite big, maybe 500mm long, and Pon told me there is at least one huge fish down there but it mostly stays deep. It was a strange and fascinating sight.
Arrived Mae Hong Son 6pm and checked into Guest House, then to dinner in the Be Bear Restaurant by the side of the lake in the middle of the town. More excellent genuine thai food and service, just a blissful place to be. Spent the rest of the evening wandering around the numerous market stalls. Have to be up early tomorrow so not too late to bed. Will report on day 3, a truly memorable day, tomorrow.
All the Best, John
Up early and away from campsite into Pai for breakfast in roadside restaurant obviously frequented mainly by locals - noodles and soup, not sure what in it but very satisfying start to the day. Walked around slightly less crowded streets of Pai, bought matching red t shirts for Leon and me, more street entertainers, a busy happy place.
Then a visit to Num Hu Temple, on top of a mountain with breathtaking views over Pai and surrounding forest, when not shrouded in mist which gives the feeling that you are on an island floating above the clouds. After a coffee here, on to Unan village, a chinese community showing traditional homes and shops.
Now we leave Pai to travel to Mae Hong Son. On the way we stop at spectacular view points again, and also at 'Fish Cave'. I was intrigued as to what this might be, especially when we arrived to see an attractive park area with a stream ruinning through it but no sign of a cave. Followed Pon along a wooden walkway alongside the stream, over the bridge from where we could see lots of carp-like fish, called soro brook crap (carp?) fish, swimming against the current. At the end of the walkway we came to a cliff face with a hole in the rocky ground at the bottom going down to the stream flowing underneath. We could see probably 2 to 4 square metres of stream down through the hole and it was packed tightly with layers of these fish still swimming against the flow but mostly not moving position. Some of the fish were quite big, maybe 500mm long, and Pon told me there is at least one huge fish down there but it mostly stays deep. It was a strange and fascinating sight.
Arrived Mae Hong Son 6pm and checked into Guest House, then to dinner in the Be Bear Restaurant by the side of the lake in the middle of the town. More excellent genuine thai food and service, just a blissful place to be. Spent the rest of the evening wandering around the numerous market stalls. Have to be up early tomorrow so not too late to bed. Will report on day 3, a truly memorable day, tomorrow.
All the Best, John
Sunday, January 04, 2009
Chiang Mai January 2009
Chiang Mai January 2009
New Year's Eve. Pon has a new restaurant/bar in Chiang Mai, not ready for proper opening yet but we go there anyway, she has beer and facilities for bar-b-q so we have a great evening with friends from tour company eating lovely food and drinking til 3am. During the evening, thousands of lanterns are being released into the sky all over Thailand, it is a spectacular sight to see them all floating in the night sky. Nearby is a reggae dance hall/bar packed with revellers, also many other clubs, bars and dance halls around the square, lots of music and party atmosphere, it is a great place for Pon's new restaurant.
1 January, a bit late up in the morning, meet Pon at 10 to start 3 day tour of north west Thailand. We head for mountains and they are spectacular. The road is very steep, up, down and around many tight windy bends through thick natural forest. For many miles I am spellbound by the sight of this beautiful place. We stop twice at high viewing points and get some great pictures. We stop again at one of the many roadside stalls to buy jacket sweet potatos, very tasty.
We arrive at Huay Nam Dang, a tourist park at a high point in the mountain forests, this was a favourite place of the King's late sister. The whole area of forest covered mountains is a national park spreading from Amphur Pai to Amphur Mae Taeng. The highest peak is Doi Chang. We look around the visitor centre and walk around the park getting some more great photos.
Next, on to Pai, a very popular destination for Thai tourists, especially this year due to a movie made here in 2008. Pai is packed with visitors from all over Thailand, I didn't see a single western person. There are thousands of stalls in walking streets packed with people. Entertainers comandeer sections of streets for their performances - music, singing, dancing, drumming, children doing knife acts and dancing in a llama costume. Wonderful atmosphere. I bought a rattle for Leon and a pink bouncing giraffe for Ruby. Had a very Thai meal in a restaurant near the Cafe d'tist where the film was made in the centre of Pai, a bit salty for me but still enjoyed it.
Then to campsite for the night, first time in a tent since pre-caravan racing days, but very warm and cosy so had a good night. Will report on day 2 of the tour tomorrow,
All the Best, John
New Year's Eve. Pon has a new restaurant/bar in Chiang Mai, not ready for proper opening yet but we go there anyway, she has beer and facilities for bar-b-q so we have a great evening with friends from tour company eating lovely food and drinking til 3am. During the evening, thousands of lanterns are being released into the sky all over Thailand, it is a spectacular sight to see them all floating in the night sky. Nearby is a reggae dance hall/bar packed with revellers, also many other clubs, bars and dance halls around the square, lots of music and party atmosphere, it is a great place for Pon's new restaurant.
1 January, a bit late up in the morning, meet Pon at 10 to start 3 day tour of north west Thailand. We head for mountains and they are spectacular. The road is very steep, up, down and around many tight windy bends through thick natural forest. For many miles I am spellbound by the sight of this beautiful place. We stop twice at high viewing points and get some great pictures. We stop again at one of the many roadside stalls to buy jacket sweet potatos, very tasty.
We arrive at Huay Nam Dang, a tourist park at a high point in the mountain forests, this was a favourite place of the King's late sister. The whole area of forest covered mountains is a national park spreading from Amphur Pai to Amphur Mae Taeng. The highest peak is Doi Chang. We look around the visitor centre and walk around the park getting some more great photos.
Next, on to Pai, a very popular destination for Thai tourists, especially this year due to a movie made here in 2008. Pai is packed with visitors from all over Thailand, I didn't see a single western person. There are thousands of stalls in walking streets packed with people. Entertainers comandeer sections of streets for their performances - music, singing, dancing, drumming, children doing knife acts and dancing in a llama costume. Wonderful atmosphere. I bought a rattle for Leon and a pink bouncing giraffe for Ruby. Had a very Thai meal in a restaurant near the Cafe d'tist where the film was made in the centre of Pai, a bit salty for me but still enjoyed it.
Then to campsite for the night, first time in a tent since pre-caravan racing days, but very warm and cosy so had a good night. Will report on day 2 of the tour tomorrow,
All the Best, John
Wednesday, December 31, 2008
New Year's Eve 2008, Chiang Mai 6.45pm local time, 7 hours ahead of UK.
Planned an early night last night after 3 flights and 27 hour journey but it didn't happen. Invited to NYE party at tour company HQ (held 1 night early, who cares why) by guide Pon. Beer, karaoke, thai food just handed to you (very tasty but can be dangerously hot, nearly called the fire brigade after one kebab), dancing (sort of), lovely people - happy, friendly, generous and good fun to be with. Just have to occasionally chuck 20 baht in a collection dish for beer. Bed - 1am!
Today (is it Wednesday?) collected at 8am for tour with guides from party including Pon. First to Orchid Farm, beautiful blooms, also butterflies but not many of them this time of year. Next we were driven deep into the jungle for an elephant ride along the banks of a small stream, about an hour with regular stops for our asian carrier to consume huge chunks of the vegetation, got some good photos, will try to send some to you but no time today. Fed her with bunch of bananas at the end. The drivers of the elephants (mahmoot?) are mostly from Burma/Myanmar and speak a completely different language to my thai friends. After this, an hour's trek through the jungle to meet our 4x4.
Next I get to drive a pair of oxen pulling a cart containing another 3 tourists, I guess for about a kilometre along the road. I think the beasts had done it before so didn't need to do much thrashing and pulling with the reigns, but an interesting experience none the less.
Then lunch provided by a local family in their porch, very fresh pineapple, plus a spaghetti dish containing I know not what but very tasty and mercifully not spicy.
Another longish drive took us to a river bank and into a rubber raft - 4 of us plus the 'captain'. After donning life jacket and crash helmet and receiving instructions on where and how to sit, how to paddle forward and backward and stop paddling, and the crash position, we were launched into this torrent of white water. Great fun. Got wet of course. For last section of river journey, we transferred to a flat bamboo raft controlled by man with pole on a more sedate part of the river. Got even wetter here. Must have been on the river about an hour.
On the way back, stopped briefly at an establishment that makes paper out of elepnant poo but it was closed so sorry, no samples to bring back.
Now 7.25pm, being collected at 8 o'clock for NYE in a nearby bar. Could be a long night. Will report again when I surface.
All the Best,
John
Planned an early night last night after 3 flights and 27 hour journey but it didn't happen. Invited to NYE party at tour company HQ (held 1 night early, who cares why) by guide Pon. Beer, karaoke, thai food just handed to you (very tasty but can be dangerously hot, nearly called the fire brigade after one kebab), dancing (sort of), lovely people - happy, friendly, generous and good fun to be with. Just have to occasionally chuck 20 baht in a collection dish for beer. Bed - 1am!
Today (is it Wednesday?) collected at 8am for tour with guides from party including Pon. First to Orchid Farm, beautiful blooms, also butterflies but not many of them this time of year. Next we were driven deep into the jungle for an elephant ride along the banks of a small stream, about an hour with regular stops for our asian carrier to consume huge chunks of the vegetation, got some good photos, will try to send some to you but no time today. Fed her with bunch of bananas at the end. The drivers of the elephants (mahmoot?) are mostly from Burma/Myanmar and speak a completely different language to my thai friends. After this, an hour's trek through the jungle to meet our 4x4.
Next I get to drive a pair of oxen pulling a cart containing another 3 tourists, I guess for about a kilometre along the road. I think the beasts had done it before so didn't need to do much thrashing and pulling with the reigns, but an interesting experience none the less.
Then lunch provided by a local family in their porch, very fresh pineapple, plus a spaghetti dish containing I know not what but very tasty and mercifully not spicy.
Another longish drive took us to a river bank and into a rubber raft - 4 of us plus the 'captain'. After donning life jacket and crash helmet and receiving instructions on where and how to sit, how to paddle forward and backward and stop paddling, and the crash position, we were launched into this torrent of white water. Great fun. Got wet of course. For last section of river journey, we transferred to a flat bamboo raft controlled by man with pole on a more sedate part of the river. Got even wetter here. Must have been on the river about an hour.
On the way back, stopped briefly at an establishment that makes paper out of elepnant poo but it was closed so sorry, no samples to bring back.
Now 7.25pm, being collected at 8 o'clock for NYE in a nearby bar. Could be a long night. Will report again when I surface.
All the Best,
John
Monday, December 29, 2008
Chiang Mai and Malaysia
Hello all, it's me again. Just started 6 week trip, now in Chiang Mai northern city of Thailand with lots of history and elephants. Arrived only a few hours ago so nothing to report yet. Malaysia in late January to mid-Feb = Kuala Lumpar then East Malaysia (= north Borneo) based in Sandakan to visit oranutans, proboscis monkeys and egg laying turtles.
In between will be a spell on the beach in Phuket. Keep in touch, all the best,
John
In between will be a spell on the beach in Phuket. Keep in touch, all the best,
John
Thursday, October 09, 2008
Peru, Bolivia, Brazil Sat 4 Oct - Thurs 9 Oct 08
Peru, Bolivia, Brazil Sat 4 Oct - Thurs 9 Oct 08
Here is last report for this trip.
People here in Porto Seguro are exceptionally friendly, lots of hugs and kisses on both cheeks when greeting and parting (except man to man = handshake and fist-touching and occasional hug). Everyone consistantly happy, smiling, laughing at every opportunity, lots of music, mostly brazillian (rather than pop or rock), lambada/folksey/bluesy, people dancing in the street or restaurant, great atmosphere.
Had hectic last few days here with friends made at Luis restaurant.
Saturday evening - a riotous birthday party in a village inland from Porto Seguro, driven (careered) there with 6 of us in fiesta size car, huge welcome by lovely lady celebrating birthday, several dozen people in back yard, much beer, music and dancing.
Sunday a 50k bus trip with Nete and Sandra to Eunapolis, a large inland town, where met at bus station by Nete's brother = Sandras fiance for bbq at mamas, went on all afternoon/evening various people calling by and joining in, very relaxed easy going culture here, met loads of people, great day.
Monday evening after meal at Luis, came across very loud rock concert in new tourist square just opened, all ages watching/listening /dancing/drinking/eating, great atmosphere.
Tuesday a quiet day, excellent lunch, fish, hot vegetables, mash potato, salad and a beer, ready to start return journey on a full stomach. After lots of sad farewells, caught bus at 7pm from Porto Seguro to Salvador, then 3 flights via Sao Paulo and Madrid to arrive Heathrow today (Thursday) 11am, collected by Philip and Faye (blooming at 23? weeks), so here I am home again in Bovingdon.
A fantastic 5 and a half weeks. Enjoyed all of it. Met some wonderful people in Peru, Bolivia, Rio and Porto Seguro. Saw some great sights, especially in the trek on the Andes inca trail. Thanks for sharing it with me, hope you enjoyed reading about it.
Until the next trip, All the Best to Everyone,
John
Here is last report for this trip.
People here in Porto Seguro are exceptionally friendly, lots of hugs and kisses on both cheeks when greeting and parting (except man to man = handshake and fist-touching and occasional hug). Everyone consistantly happy, smiling, laughing at every opportunity, lots of music, mostly brazillian (rather than pop or rock), lambada/folksey/bluesy, people dancing in the street or restaurant, great atmosphere.
Had hectic last few days here with friends made at Luis restaurant.
Saturday evening - a riotous birthday party in a village inland from Porto Seguro, driven (careered) there with 6 of us in fiesta size car, huge welcome by lovely lady celebrating birthday, several dozen people in back yard, much beer, music and dancing.
Sunday a 50k bus trip with Nete and Sandra to Eunapolis, a large inland town, where met at bus station by Nete's brother = Sandras fiance for bbq at mamas, went on all afternoon/evening various people calling by and joining in, very relaxed easy going culture here, met loads of people, great day.
Monday evening after meal at Luis, came across very loud rock concert in new tourist square just opened, all ages watching/listening /dancing/drinking/eating, great atmosphere.
Tuesday a quiet day, excellent lunch, fish, hot vegetables, mash potato, salad and a beer, ready to start return journey on a full stomach. After lots of sad farewells, caught bus at 7pm from Porto Seguro to Salvador, then 3 flights via Sao Paulo and Madrid to arrive Heathrow today (Thursday) 11am, collected by Philip and Faye (blooming at 23? weeks), so here I am home again in Bovingdon.
A fantastic 5 and a half weeks. Enjoyed all of it. Met some wonderful people in Peru, Bolivia, Rio and Porto Seguro. Saw some great sights, especially in the trek on the Andes inca trail. Thanks for sharing it with me, hope you enjoyed reading about it.
Until the next trip, All the Best to Everyone,
John
Friday, October 03, 2008
Peru, Bolivia, Brazil Fri 26 Sept - Fri 3 Oct 08
Peru, Bolivia, Brazil Fri 26 Sept - Fri 3 Oct 08
Having a very pleasant time in Porto Seguro. Everyone very friendly and helpful. Weather poor for first few days and got a bit bored but now sunny with a pleasant breeze so spending a lot of time in and around the hotel pool and I have found a great restaurant. Luis is the proprieter, he speaks quite good english (a rareity here) and he is a really nice guy, very helpful as are his wife and staff. Had a few meals there and more than a few beers. Great music too, I think Luis has found the Laura Nyro of Brazil, she sings solo with a guitar on Sunday evenings, really good. Other evenings there are DVDs on a big screen of Brazillian music and dancing, entrancing stuff. Met some interesting people in the restaurant, Nete and her sister-in-law to be Sandra and a bunch of their friends, and Kurt who is a property broker working this area.
Spent yesterday on the beach with Nete and Sandra, waiter service so had a few beers, very pleasant and relaxing day.
Yesterday evening Luis took me with a group of customers to Lambada, this is an entrance controlled room with dance floor + bar, mostly but not all young people having a great time, loud brazillian music and, wow, the dancing was wild, bodies flying around the dance floor whirling and spinning, technical stuff it looked to me. Great atmosphere. Bit late getting back to hotel!
I see Laura is about to hit you (UK), not too bad I hope, it looks as if you´ve already had some cool breezy weather according to CNN. CNN and a film channel the only english TV here. I have watched quite a lot of CNN due to the goings on in US, but oh it is horrendously repetitive, continually self promoting itself and special reports to come etc etc. The actual news consumes a tiny fraction of its time. Never mind, its better than no news.
Looking forward to seeing everyone in UK again,
Probably only one more report at end of hol.
Take care everyone, All the Best,
John
Having a very pleasant time in Porto Seguro. Everyone very friendly and helpful. Weather poor for first few days and got a bit bored but now sunny with a pleasant breeze so spending a lot of time in and around the hotel pool and I have found a great restaurant. Luis is the proprieter, he speaks quite good english (a rareity here) and he is a really nice guy, very helpful as are his wife and staff. Had a few meals there and more than a few beers. Great music too, I think Luis has found the Laura Nyro of Brazil, she sings solo with a guitar on Sunday evenings, really good. Other evenings there are DVDs on a big screen of Brazillian music and dancing, entrancing stuff. Met some interesting people in the restaurant, Nete and her sister-in-law to be Sandra and a bunch of their friends, and Kurt who is a property broker working this area.
Spent yesterday on the beach with Nete and Sandra, waiter service so had a few beers, very pleasant and relaxing day.
Yesterday evening Luis took me with a group of customers to Lambada, this is an entrance controlled room with dance floor + bar, mostly but not all young people having a great time, loud brazillian music and, wow, the dancing was wild, bodies flying around the dance floor whirling and spinning, technical stuff it looked to me. Great atmosphere. Bit late getting back to hotel!
I see Laura is about to hit you (UK), not too bad I hope, it looks as if you´ve already had some cool breezy weather according to CNN. CNN and a film channel the only english TV here. I have watched quite a lot of CNN due to the goings on in US, but oh it is horrendously repetitive, continually self promoting itself and special reports to come etc etc. The actual news consumes a tiny fraction of its time. Never mind, its better than no news.
Looking forward to seeing everyone in UK again,
Probably only one more report at end of hol.
Take care everyone, All the Best,
John
Wednesday, September 24, 2008
Peru, Bolivia, Brazil Mon 22 - Thurs 25 Sept 08
Peru, Bolivia, Brazil Mon 22 - Thurs 25 Sept 08
Had a quiet last few days in Rio. Priority Monday was to book bus from Rio to Porto Seguro which is a resort in Bahia region north of Rio. 18 hour journey so decided to go overnight from Wed evening.
Went to Rio ´´Carnival of Culture´´, young people performing on a stage - some ballet and traditional brazillian dancing, very good.
Spent some time on Copacabana beach, very relaxing and pleasant.
Must mention reception staff at Atlantic Copacabana Hotel, really helpful, brilliant.
Wed evening got to bus station by taxi OK, took 50 mins, very bad traffic here. Very efficient at bus station, luxurious bus, slept most of the way.
Now Thursday and installed in hotel in Porto Seguro, right next to sea front and main area of town, here for 2 weeks so should be good. Nice room, helpful people. Bigger pool but a funny shape as they do in hotels. Nothing exciting planned so will be a few days to next blog.
Take care everyone, All the Best,
John
Had a quiet last few days in Rio. Priority Monday was to book bus from Rio to Porto Seguro which is a resort in Bahia region north of Rio. 18 hour journey so decided to go overnight from Wed evening.
Went to Rio ´´Carnival of Culture´´, young people performing on a stage - some ballet and traditional brazillian dancing, very good.
Spent some time on Copacabana beach, very relaxing and pleasant.
Must mention reception staff at Atlantic Copacabana Hotel, really helpful, brilliant.
Wed evening got to bus station by taxi OK, took 50 mins, very bad traffic here. Very efficient at bus station, luxurious bus, slept most of the way.
Now Thursday and installed in hotel in Porto Seguro, right next to sea front and main area of town, here for 2 weeks so should be good. Nice room, helpful people. Bigger pool but a funny shape as they do in hotels. Nothing exciting planned so will be a few days to next blog.
Take care everyone, All the Best,
John
Monday, September 22, 2008
Peru, Bolivia, Brazil Wed 17 - Sun 21 Sept 08
Peru, Bolivia, Brazil Wed 17 - Sun 21 Sept 08
Hello again, here I am reporting from Copacabana beach, Rio de Janeiro
Wed 17 evening still in La Paz, went out to meal and show. Thought I had ordered lamb kebab but it turned out to be llama on a stick, very tasty but a bit chewey maybe it was one of the llamas that carried our packs on the trek, maybe not, buffet excellent though. And the show, wow, started off with 2 guys on fiddles one big one tiny originally made out of armadillo shell beautiful sound very good musicians; next a bigger band adding drums, multiple bamboo things they blow down and a flute player, about 16, brilliant. Excellent show so far but next the dancers, wow, lots of colour and fast movement, 3 girls and I think there were some blokes too, lots of different flambouyant costumes, all very entertaining.
Thurs 18 up early, 3 flights, La Paz to Lima, bit of a rush in Lima to catch connection to Sao Paulo, collect bag, check in again, long wait and qs there for final flight to Rio, bag arrived OK, then taxi to hotel, no problems.
Fri 19 quiet day, got some clothes washed, walked along promenade of Copacabana beach, lots going on incl football, volleyball etc., what a great place. Very easy to walk around here, most of streets are one way, the traffic stops at red lights and pedestrians cross on green pelicans. Quite disciplined unlike Peru and Bolivia where adherence to rules of the road appear to be voluntary. Looked everywhere for guinea pigs, couldn´t find even one, missed out in Peru and Bolivia where they are a delicacy, they have them running around their houses, (mostly one room per family) and cook them for special occasions but none in Copacabana so probably won´t get to eat one now. Never mind maybe they´ll let me look after one from CPS in the summer hols.
Atlantica Copacabana hotel has tiny pool on roof so had a swim there, very pleasant in this hot weather. (the sea is very rough, slopes down steeply with awkward currents and is slightly polluted so decided to give it a miss dont want to drown or worse have tummy upset half way thru hol)
Sat 20 spent some time on beach today, very nice views all around I dont know how some of these girls cover so much with so little. Another swim in pool and booked all day trip tomorrow, morning to Corcovado (Christ the Redeemer monument) and Sugar Loaf in the afternoon.
All the Best to Rick and Lucinda, hope they had a great day.
Sun 21 Morning trip thru Rio, sharing bus with people from Columbia, Equador, US, London, India, China, Argentina, Sweden and Beirut; saw some sights incl iconic Maracana Stadium, built to hold 200,000 for 1958? world cup, now all seating for 90,000+. Next up steep switch-back hills thru favellas (poor residential areas) then Tijuca Forest (lots of trees). minibuses, lift, escalators and steps finally get us to base of monument. It´s huge and imposing giving a feeling of awe when standing right under it. Fantastic views of Rio all around. Met and chatted with Neil from India (now living in Oman), a world traveller on steel busines and Jo from Kent attending a therapists conference in Brazillia. Then to lunch, talked football with Neil and couple from Argentina. Loads of food, tried everything, no idea what some of it was but all very tasty, think there was some suchi, chefs came round with chunks of beef on skewers prizing bits off onto your plate if you wanted it, each skewer had number referencing cut of animal to diagram on place mat, brilliant stuff.
Time to confess, on way up to Corcovado saw Sugar Loaf cable car dangling in mid-air so exchanged Sugar Loaf afternoon trip for evening football match in Maracana Stadium. This proved a good move. Terrific atmosphere inside massive stadium, Flamengo vs Ipatinga, great build up to game, home fans eccstatic with 1 - 0 result. Thoroughly enjoyed the experience of being in this great home of football, host to world cup final in 2014.
A special day.
All the Best to everyone,
John
Hello again, here I am reporting from Copacabana beach, Rio de Janeiro
Wed 17 evening still in La Paz, went out to meal and show. Thought I had ordered lamb kebab but it turned out to be llama on a stick, very tasty but a bit chewey maybe it was one of the llamas that carried our packs on the trek, maybe not, buffet excellent though. And the show, wow, started off with 2 guys on fiddles one big one tiny originally made out of armadillo shell beautiful sound very good musicians; next a bigger band adding drums, multiple bamboo things they blow down and a flute player, about 16, brilliant. Excellent show so far but next the dancers, wow, lots of colour and fast movement, 3 girls and I think there were some blokes too, lots of different flambouyant costumes, all very entertaining.
Thurs 18 up early, 3 flights, La Paz to Lima, bit of a rush in Lima to catch connection to Sao Paulo, collect bag, check in again, long wait and qs there for final flight to Rio, bag arrived OK, then taxi to hotel, no problems.
Fri 19 quiet day, got some clothes washed, walked along promenade of Copacabana beach, lots going on incl football, volleyball etc., what a great place. Very easy to walk around here, most of streets are one way, the traffic stops at red lights and pedestrians cross on green pelicans. Quite disciplined unlike Peru and Bolivia where adherence to rules of the road appear to be voluntary. Looked everywhere for guinea pigs, couldn´t find even one, missed out in Peru and Bolivia where they are a delicacy, they have them running around their houses, (mostly one room per family) and cook them for special occasions but none in Copacabana so probably won´t get to eat one now. Never mind maybe they´ll let me look after one from CPS in the summer hols.
Atlantica Copacabana hotel has tiny pool on roof so had a swim there, very pleasant in this hot weather. (the sea is very rough, slopes down steeply with awkward currents and is slightly polluted so decided to give it a miss dont want to drown or worse have tummy upset half way thru hol)
Sat 20 spent some time on beach today, very nice views all around I dont know how some of these girls cover so much with so little. Another swim in pool and booked all day trip tomorrow, morning to Corcovado (Christ the Redeemer monument) and Sugar Loaf in the afternoon.
All the Best to Rick and Lucinda, hope they had a great day.
Sun 21 Morning trip thru Rio, sharing bus with people from Columbia, Equador, US, London, India, China, Argentina, Sweden and Beirut; saw some sights incl iconic Maracana Stadium, built to hold 200,000 for 1958? world cup, now all seating for 90,000+. Next up steep switch-back hills thru favellas (poor residential areas) then Tijuca Forest (lots of trees). minibuses, lift, escalators and steps finally get us to base of monument. It´s huge and imposing giving a feeling of awe when standing right under it. Fantastic views of Rio all around. Met and chatted with Neil from India (now living in Oman), a world traveller on steel busines and Jo from Kent attending a therapists conference in Brazillia. Then to lunch, talked football with Neil and couple from Argentina. Loads of food, tried everything, no idea what some of it was but all very tasty, think there was some suchi, chefs came round with chunks of beef on skewers prizing bits off onto your plate if you wanted it, each skewer had number referencing cut of animal to diagram on place mat, brilliant stuff.
Time to confess, on way up to Corcovado saw Sugar Loaf cable car dangling in mid-air so exchanged Sugar Loaf afternoon trip for evening football match in Maracana Stadium. This proved a good move. Terrific atmosphere inside massive stadium, Flamengo vs Ipatinga, great build up to game, home fans eccstatic with 1 - 0 result. Thoroughly enjoyed the experience of being in this great home of football, host to world cup final in 2014.
A special day.
All the Best to everyone,
John
Wednesday, September 17, 2008
Peru, Bolivia, Brazil Wed 17 Sept 08
Peru, Bolivia, Brazil Wed 17 Sept 08
Tour of the city of La Paz today.
First to colonial (old) city, including the La Paz ´´Wall St.´´, City Hall and Main Square. Buildings around main sq. incl both houses of government, Senate and Representatives, The Sepulcre of Santa Cruz (more later), a 16th century palace now a museum, and the Cathedral which took 250 years to completion in 1965. The Cathedral´s alter is a scaled down copy of the one in St Peter´s, Rome. One of the Chapels is dedicated to the Madonna of Copacabana. 20 years ago, 93% of the population declared themselves catholic, but now that there is much more religious tolerance and it is no longer the state religion, only 57% are catholic.
In 1953, the indiginous population became citizens, but alcoholism is the worst social plague here. Protestants from Canada and US have put programmes in place that help those addicted, and our guide`s wife also helps these people.
Santa Cruz was the first mixed race hero, his father was a Marquis and his mother one of the last Inca royalty.
Next we visited a section of the city that has been preserved by the city government. It is quite a large area of 16 &17 century spanish houses with narrow streets and lots of history. We fought our way through hordes of schoolkids to a remarkable museum containing ceramics 5th century BC to 12 c AD when the TIWANAKU (this is the correct speling) civilisation disappeared and later. The ceramics from the height of the Tiwanaku period are beautiful and very well made. Also Inca headpieces and many other items made of gold, some 24 carrots which is white gold and very soft. Also a remarkable bowl found on a lake titicaca beach by children estimated to date back to 7th - 6th century BC. This bowl has a snake around the edge and pictures of a Condor and giant frog; but most interestingly and very intriguing to historians, it has a lot of writing around the inside of the bowl that is identical to that found in Assyria, middle east, from the same period. This implies that there was migration or trade between the middle east and south america 600 years BC.
Also in the museum are recepticles for drug taking, probably weeds from the jungle similar to marijuana. The Incas and dynasties before them subjugated their people by freely supplying drugs that kept them dopy and malliable most of the time.
The Incas apparently discovered the wheel but not the axle. I struggled a bit with this piece of information. Why bother to invent the wheel without the axle. Perhaps they all drove around in wheel-barrows.
Next to Killikilli hilltop, 3,600 meters above sea level and 600 above the centre of the city. Killi is a flower. The plural is formed by repeating the word hence lots of these flowers is killikilli. Personally I think geraniums is easier that geraniumgeranium. From Killikilli you get an excellent view of Mount Illimani, 6,500 metres and snow-capped. Beautiful and imposing today in the sunlight. Then to bus again and passed replica of the Lower (underground) Temple of Tiwanaku. Sadly no time to visit the original which is some distance away.
Then we passed by a major development of a Central Park which appears mainly for youth sports and children,s playgrounds. An excellent project. 50% of La Paz population is under 18. (also, 50% is 100% indiginous ie pure indian/pre-spanish) The public university has 70,000 students. There are also 23 private universities. As in Peru, education is high priority here.
They didn´t like MacDonalds here though. Several were opened and then closed. Bolivia is the only country in south america with no MacDonalds.
Next to Moon Valley which is very interesting but nothing like the moon surface and it`s on a hill. Only recently did some french geoligists, by drilling deep down, discover that it is solidified magna from a volcano that never properly erupted. All the volcanos in Bolivia are dead and this might have been the last attempt at an erruption in the area. Will try to post a picture later.
Lastly to the Witches Market. Actually not witches at all, this name was dreamed up for the tourists. It is really a Magicians Market. Lots of amulets and lucky charms that you can get blessed to acheive your worldly wishes.
Now 4.30 (5 hours behind UK) and back in the Hotel Plaza (very nice but a bit chilly, excellent breakfast). Going to show + meal tonight with 6 others from the group. 3 flights tomorrow to get to Rio (La Paz to Lima, Lima to Sau Paulo, S Paulo to Rio. Will report on show from there.
All the Best,
John
Tour of the city of La Paz today.
First to colonial (old) city, including the La Paz ´´Wall St.´´, City Hall and Main Square. Buildings around main sq. incl both houses of government, Senate and Representatives, The Sepulcre of Santa Cruz (more later), a 16th century palace now a museum, and the Cathedral which took 250 years to completion in 1965. The Cathedral´s alter is a scaled down copy of the one in St Peter´s, Rome. One of the Chapels is dedicated to the Madonna of Copacabana. 20 years ago, 93% of the population declared themselves catholic, but now that there is much more religious tolerance and it is no longer the state religion, only 57% are catholic.
In 1953, the indiginous population became citizens, but alcoholism is the worst social plague here. Protestants from Canada and US have put programmes in place that help those addicted, and our guide`s wife also helps these people.
Santa Cruz was the first mixed race hero, his father was a Marquis and his mother one of the last Inca royalty.
Next we visited a section of the city that has been preserved by the city government. It is quite a large area of 16 &17 century spanish houses with narrow streets and lots of history. We fought our way through hordes of schoolkids to a remarkable museum containing ceramics 5th century BC to 12 c AD when the TIWANAKU (this is the correct speling) civilisation disappeared and later. The ceramics from the height of the Tiwanaku period are beautiful and very well made. Also Inca headpieces and many other items made of gold, some 24 carrots which is white gold and very soft. Also a remarkable bowl found on a lake titicaca beach by children estimated to date back to 7th - 6th century BC. This bowl has a snake around the edge and pictures of a Condor and giant frog; but most interestingly and very intriguing to historians, it has a lot of writing around the inside of the bowl that is identical to that found in Assyria, middle east, from the same period. This implies that there was migration or trade between the middle east and south america 600 years BC.
Also in the museum are recepticles for drug taking, probably weeds from the jungle similar to marijuana. The Incas and dynasties before them subjugated their people by freely supplying drugs that kept them dopy and malliable most of the time.
The Incas apparently discovered the wheel but not the axle. I struggled a bit with this piece of information. Why bother to invent the wheel without the axle. Perhaps they all drove around in wheel-barrows.
Next to Killikilli hilltop, 3,600 meters above sea level and 600 above the centre of the city. Killi is a flower. The plural is formed by repeating the word hence lots of these flowers is killikilli. Personally I think geraniums is easier that geraniumgeranium. From Killikilli you get an excellent view of Mount Illimani, 6,500 metres and snow-capped. Beautiful and imposing today in the sunlight. Then to bus again and passed replica of the Lower (underground) Temple of Tiwanaku. Sadly no time to visit the original which is some distance away.
Then we passed by a major development of a Central Park which appears mainly for youth sports and children,s playgrounds. An excellent project. 50% of La Paz population is under 18. (also, 50% is 100% indiginous ie pure indian/pre-spanish) The public university has 70,000 students. There are also 23 private universities. As in Peru, education is high priority here.
They didn´t like MacDonalds here though. Several were opened and then closed. Bolivia is the only country in south america with no MacDonalds.
Next to Moon Valley which is very interesting but nothing like the moon surface and it`s on a hill. Only recently did some french geoligists, by drilling deep down, discover that it is solidified magna from a volcano that never properly erupted. All the volcanos in Bolivia are dead and this might have been the last attempt at an erruption in the area. Will try to post a picture later.
Lastly to the Witches Market. Actually not witches at all, this name was dreamed up for the tourists. It is really a Magicians Market. Lots of amulets and lucky charms that you can get blessed to acheive your worldly wishes.
Now 4.30 (5 hours behind UK) and back in the Hotel Plaza (very nice but a bit chilly, excellent breakfast). Going to show + meal tonight with 6 others from the group. 3 flights tomorrow to get to Rio (La Paz to Lima, Lima to Sau Paulo, S Paulo to Rio. Will report on show from there.
All the Best,
John
Tuesday, September 16, 2008
Peru, Bolivia, Brazil Tues 16 Sept 08
Peru, Bolivia, Brazil Tues 16 Sept 08
Left Copacabana 9.30am, into bus for long drive around Lake Titicaca. Bolivian Guide Antonio (who took us around Copacabana and Cathedral yesterday) excellent, very knowledgable, almost intelectual, very good english. Told us about Tiano culture which was pre-inca and existed for many centuries, high altitude potatos, and uv rays 3x stronger in this area having very damaging effects on plankton in the lake and tourists, and the highest yaght club in the world.
There had been a snowstorm last night, still some snow along sides of road, fresh snow on mountains.
Bolivia gained independance from Spain 183 years ago since when there has been some democratically elected leaders but also lots of dictatorships, military and otherwise. However they have just celebrated 25 years of uninterupted democracy, a record since independance.
Learned more about fish in lake. Kingfish, a bass-like fish, was also introduced. These were even more agressive than the trout, consuming local varieties and trout alike. Hence all trout in lake are now in farms, penned in hundreds of square enclosures and well organised.
Also in the lake are giant frogs, discovered by Jaques Cousteau who became famous decades ago for his underwater filming. These frogs live very deep, are blind and no longer amphibeous, having lost the function of their lungs. Apparently 3 french gastronomic companies got very excited about these giant frogs and wanted to eat them, as the french do. However, being blind, the reproductive cycle is very long, with these frogs spending a lot of time trying to find each other in the deep water to mate, so the supply would quickly dry up and the french abandoned their project.
The lowest temperature recorded in the lake this winter was minus 13 degrees centigrade in July. However the lake never freezes due to evaporation causing a mist over the water.
There are thousands of kilometers of terraces around the lake, but most are no longer worked due to the high labour requirement and better prospects in the growing cities and the tourist business. Productivity has also fallen, presumably due to reduced inputs of labour, nutrients and management of water. The incas used complex systems including capiliarity and osmosis, and were getting 36 tonnes per hectare according to records, this is not much less than in some modern advanced countries. But now around the lake they are only averaging 7 tonnes.
There is a very special island called Sun Island where there are remains of temples built 600 - 400 BC. The Tianco civilisation disappeared around 12th century AD, no-one quite knows why.
The Andes stretch from Alaska to Anarctica. The are 2 arms of the mountain range just here and we drove through the valley between them, an awesome experience.
Crossed the lake at its narrowest point between the big and little lakes, on a passenger ferry which was a very basic boat with just enough room for the 17 of us and lots of water sloshing around under the floor. The bus went across on a pontoon just big enough on a chain pulley system looking very odd sitting barely above the water line in the lake. We all got across safely.
Arrived La Paz which was created in 1548 following a 3 year spat between rival spanish factions after which mother spain ordered that a new city be built called Our Lady of The Peace = La Paz. There were 8 million? streams running into the valley chosen for the city, and the spanish soon noticed the local indians were finding gold in them. This made the new city very popular among spanish tourists of the day. The population today is 1.2 million and it is full, being surrounded by steep hills and mountains. A new extension of the city has grown on top of the surrounding hills whose people are seeking independance from the old city government.
There are 2 main cultures in La Paz, Andean and ex-European, but also asian (mainly japanese and indian) and african. The japanese grow rice and export lots of it, and the asian indians control the digital/photo/stereo sector. A cosmopolitan city, very crowded and busy, La Paz is also the seat of national government. The President is based here.
Walked through part of the city this afternoon, in a group led by Claudia. Visited an ATM and shopping centre. Got bored and came back to hotel with part of group to update blog. Not supposed to go out on my own, even in daytime, so can`t just wander about as I like to do sometimes. 6pm now, dinner at 7.30, one couple leaving tomorrow so will be farewells after 18 days.
Take care everybody, All the Best,
John
Left Copacabana 9.30am, into bus for long drive around Lake Titicaca. Bolivian Guide Antonio (who took us around Copacabana and Cathedral yesterday) excellent, very knowledgable, almost intelectual, very good english. Told us about Tiano culture which was pre-inca and existed for many centuries, high altitude potatos, and uv rays 3x stronger in this area having very damaging effects on plankton in the lake and tourists, and the highest yaght club in the world.
There had been a snowstorm last night, still some snow along sides of road, fresh snow on mountains.
Bolivia gained independance from Spain 183 years ago since when there has been some democratically elected leaders but also lots of dictatorships, military and otherwise. However they have just celebrated 25 years of uninterupted democracy, a record since independance.
Learned more about fish in lake. Kingfish, a bass-like fish, was also introduced. These were even more agressive than the trout, consuming local varieties and trout alike. Hence all trout in lake are now in farms, penned in hundreds of square enclosures and well organised.
Also in the lake are giant frogs, discovered by Jaques Cousteau who became famous decades ago for his underwater filming. These frogs live very deep, are blind and no longer amphibeous, having lost the function of their lungs. Apparently 3 french gastronomic companies got very excited about these giant frogs and wanted to eat them, as the french do. However, being blind, the reproductive cycle is very long, with these frogs spending a lot of time trying to find each other in the deep water to mate, so the supply would quickly dry up and the french abandoned their project.
The lowest temperature recorded in the lake this winter was minus 13 degrees centigrade in July. However the lake never freezes due to evaporation causing a mist over the water.
There are thousands of kilometers of terraces around the lake, but most are no longer worked due to the high labour requirement and better prospects in the growing cities and the tourist business. Productivity has also fallen, presumably due to reduced inputs of labour, nutrients and management of water. The incas used complex systems including capiliarity and osmosis, and were getting 36 tonnes per hectare according to records, this is not much less than in some modern advanced countries. But now around the lake they are only averaging 7 tonnes.
There is a very special island called Sun Island where there are remains of temples built 600 - 400 BC. The Tianco civilisation disappeared around 12th century AD, no-one quite knows why.
The Andes stretch from Alaska to Anarctica. The are 2 arms of the mountain range just here and we drove through the valley between them, an awesome experience.
Crossed the lake at its narrowest point between the big and little lakes, on a passenger ferry which was a very basic boat with just enough room for the 17 of us and lots of water sloshing around under the floor. The bus went across on a pontoon just big enough on a chain pulley system looking very odd sitting barely above the water line in the lake. We all got across safely.
Arrived La Paz which was created in 1548 following a 3 year spat between rival spanish factions after which mother spain ordered that a new city be built called Our Lady of The Peace = La Paz. There were 8 million? streams running into the valley chosen for the city, and the spanish soon noticed the local indians were finding gold in them. This made the new city very popular among spanish tourists of the day. The population today is 1.2 million and it is full, being surrounded by steep hills and mountains. A new extension of the city has grown on top of the surrounding hills whose people are seeking independance from the old city government.
There are 2 main cultures in La Paz, Andean and ex-European, but also asian (mainly japanese and indian) and african. The japanese grow rice and export lots of it, and the asian indians control the digital/photo/stereo sector. A cosmopolitan city, very crowded and busy, La Paz is also the seat of national government. The President is based here.
Walked through part of the city this afternoon, in a group led by Claudia. Visited an ATM and shopping centre. Got bored and came back to hotel with part of group to update blog. Not supposed to go out on my own, even in daytime, so can`t just wander about as I like to do sometimes. 6pm now, dinner at 7.30, one couple leaving tomorrow so will be farewells after 18 days.
Take care everybody, All the Best,
John
Monday, September 15, 2008
Peru, Bolivia, Brazil 14,15 Sept 08
Peru, Bolivia, Brazil 14,15 Sepr 08
Sun 14 Left nice Hotel Casa Andina Puno early to board boat accross Lake Titticaca to take 15 of us to 3 inhabited islands. Titticaca is 165 kilometers long, 60k wide, 8,500 sq ks with depths ranging up to 288 meters. This is a lot of water. Originally sea water cut off from the ocean 10,000 years ago, it is now fed by 6 rivers and flows out through one rived that dissipates across Bolivia. It never reaches either the Pacific nor Atlantic Oceon. Some salt remains, but mostly fresh now.
First visit was to a man made island. Driven from Puno centuries ago, indiginous people first lived on boats then developed skills using the reeds to create islands and homes far from the invadors. They cut large sections of underwater reed root which then float to the top. These are dragged to the nearest beach to dry out, then lashed together to form a large area which is towed back out into the lake to the chosen position. Then cut top stalks and leaves of reeds are layed accross, first layer one way second at right angles etc until a floor that can be walked on is formed. The reeds are layered to a higher level for houses and other structures. They have to keep topping up the reeds and every 4 or 5 years, replace the whole island. There are hundreds of these reed islands, each containing 5 to 10 families, all with intricate interlocking cultural and spiritual customs. 526 families, 3,000 people in total. We visited one of these reed islands called Titimarka and were treated to a demonstration of how the islands are made and shown some of the foods and fish they eat. The ladies in out group dressed up in local costume with much giggling and hilarity. A small group of us were invited into one home by one of the three sisters who live in it. She spoke quite good english, attended a high school on land nearby and wants to be trained for the tourist industry. These people are very traditional in their ways and also very switched on. I bought a very nice blanket for Leon, it shows the Aconda, Puma and snake whick are central symbols top the Incas representing the heavens in which the Acondas fly, the ground on wich people and pumas live and the underground inhabited by snakes. I hope he like it.
Next to another reed island, Jachachaywa, where a wedding was underway. Bride and Groom, little bridesmaids, presents including an MFI wardrobe and a band continually playing and clearly in need of the practice. Lots of booze and soft drinks. The celebrations go on for 10 days. The men who drink the most gain some special standing in the newly weds future family.
Then on to Taquile, a large normal rocky island with a very important Headman who has even made an official visit to England. Long walk up to our rooms carring our back-packs. (Puffed a bit). Shown local produce, said to be the best woven and knitted wear in Peru. Only the men are allowed to knit. The do it VERY tightly. A boy is not allowed to get married until his knitted hat can hold water without leaking. The women weave. Beautiful stuff. Had soup for lunch, their soups are amazing, then walked to the top of the island, over 4,100 meters above sea level - more experience of not enough oxygen. Religious site, pre-inca ruins, and pictures of sunset then down for dinner. Soup again, had seconds, then white (rainbow?)trout, very fresh and perfectly cooked, plus local potatos, some a very strange shape, sort of cylindrical and wrinkly. White and brown trout were introduced by americans in 1958, first welcomed by locals but then bigger trout ate all the local fish, they all died out except 2 varieties. Not so pleased now.
Rooms very basic, shared with Ray and Stewart, bed quite comfortable with loads of thick blankets, Rumours of minus 5 degrees at night proved unfounded, it was cold but bearable. No hot water. Slept like a log.
Monday 15th today, 6am breakfast, then boat (saw some ducks) back to Puno. Bought snacks, bunch bannannas, 2 snickers bars, 2 packets buscuits, bottle water, 15 sols < 3 pounds in tiny shop from two lovely ladies who only had 4 teeth between them. Onto bus, stopped for group photo, still the 15 of us, then to border with Bolivia. No problems. On to Hotel Gloria in Copacabana. Yes Copacabana Bolivia, the first Copacabana whose meaning is origin of water viewpoint. A priest promised the Madonna he would name the next place he visited after this town, then got shipwrecked off Brazil hence the name there.
The Madonna is The Queen of the Nation, very important spititually, culturally and politically, including to non-catholics.
There is a huge church here with a special chapel containing The Madonna. Her clothes are changed daily, three times a day during special festivals. All of her clothes are jewel encrusted and beautifully embroidered. Families deprive themselves over long periods to save money to buy her an item of clothing. Tens of thousands visit the town, church and nearby hill in pilgrimages, a bit like Lourdes, sometimes 40,000 on a special day.
Bought t shirts for me, Philip, Wayne and Leon. Philips is a classic.
On to La Paz tomorrow. No troubles here or there, but a strike up north apparently.
All the Best,
John
Sun 14 Left nice Hotel Casa Andina Puno early to board boat accross Lake Titticaca to take 15 of us to 3 inhabited islands. Titticaca is 165 kilometers long, 60k wide, 8,500 sq ks with depths ranging up to 288 meters. This is a lot of water. Originally sea water cut off from the ocean 10,000 years ago, it is now fed by 6 rivers and flows out through one rived that dissipates across Bolivia. It never reaches either the Pacific nor Atlantic Oceon. Some salt remains, but mostly fresh now.
First visit was to a man made island. Driven from Puno centuries ago, indiginous people first lived on boats then developed skills using the reeds to create islands and homes far from the invadors. They cut large sections of underwater reed root which then float to the top. These are dragged to the nearest beach to dry out, then lashed together to form a large area which is towed back out into the lake to the chosen position. Then cut top stalks and leaves of reeds are layed accross, first layer one way second at right angles etc until a floor that can be walked on is formed. The reeds are layered to a higher level for houses and other structures. They have to keep topping up the reeds and every 4 or 5 years, replace the whole island. There are hundreds of these reed islands, each containing 5 to 10 families, all with intricate interlocking cultural and spiritual customs. 526 families, 3,000 people in total. We visited one of these reed islands called Titimarka and were treated to a demonstration of how the islands are made and shown some of the foods and fish they eat. The ladies in out group dressed up in local costume with much giggling and hilarity. A small group of us were invited into one home by one of the three sisters who live in it. She spoke quite good english, attended a high school on land nearby and wants to be trained for the tourist industry. These people are very traditional in their ways and also very switched on. I bought a very nice blanket for Leon, it shows the Aconda, Puma and snake whick are central symbols top the Incas representing the heavens in which the Acondas fly, the ground on wich people and pumas live and the underground inhabited by snakes. I hope he like it.
Next to another reed island, Jachachaywa, where a wedding was underway. Bride and Groom, little bridesmaids, presents including an MFI wardrobe and a band continually playing and clearly in need of the practice. Lots of booze and soft drinks. The celebrations go on for 10 days. The men who drink the most gain some special standing in the newly weds future family.
Then on to Taquile, a large normal rocky island with a very important Headman who has even made an official visit to England. Long walk up to our rooms carring our back-packs. (Puffed a bit). Shown local produce, said to be the best woven and knitted wear in Peru. Only the men are allowed to knit. The do it VERY tightly. A boy is not allowed to get married until his knitted hat can hold water without leaking. The women weave. Beautiful stuff. Had soup for lunch, their soups are amazing, then walked to the top of the island, over 4,100 meters above sea level - more experience of not enough oxygen. Religious site, pre-inca ruins, and pictures of sunset then down for dinner. Soup again, had seconds, then white (rainbow?)trout, very fresh and perfectly cooked, plus local potatos, some a very strange shape, sort of cylindrical and wrinkly. White and brown trout were introduced by americans in 1958, first welcomed by locals but then bigger trout ate all the local fish, they all died out except 2 varieties. Not so pleased now.
Rooms very basic, shared with Ray and Stewart, bed quite comfortable with loads of thick blankets, Rumours of minus 5 degrees at night proved unfounded, it was cold but bearable. No hot water. Slept like a log.
Monday 15th today, 6am breakfast, then boat (saw some ducks) back to Puno. Bought snacks, bunch bannannas, 2 snickers bars, 2 packets buscuits, bottle water, 15 sols < 3 pounds in tiny shop from two lovely ladies who only had 4 teeth between them. Onto bus, stopped for group photo, still the 15 of us, then to border with Bolivia. No problems. On to Hotel Gloria in Copacabana. Yes Copacabana Bolivia, the first Copacabana whose meaning is origin of water viewpoint. A priest promised the Madonna he would name the next place he visited after this town, then got shipwrecked off Brazil hence the name there.
The Madonna is The Queen of the Nation, very important spititually, culturally and politically, including to non-catholics.
There is a huge church here with a special chapel containing The Madonna. Her clothes are changed daily, three times a day during special festivals. All of her clothes are jewel encrusted and beautifully embroidered. Families deprive themselves over long periods to save money to buy her an item of clothing. Tens of thousands visit the town, church and nearby hill in pilgrimages, a bit like Lourdes, sometimes 40,000 on a special day.
Bought t shirts for me, Philip, Wayne and Leon. Philips is a classic.
On to La Paz tomorrow. No troubles here or there, but a strike up north apparently.
All the Best,
John
Saturday, September 13, 2008
Peru, Bolivia, Brazil Fri'Sat
Peru, Bolivia, Brazil Fri'Sat
Friday rest day visited inca museum fascinating stuff 1000BC to 1400AD weapons, stonemason tools, pottery (some 1 metre high), pins, spoons, waeving instruments and loons, whistles, musical instruments, all well presented in a yniversity building near the main square.
Back to hotel, informed by manageress that Cindy and Dianes rooms walls are original inca stone walls. Next to hotel is archeological site and this plus hotel atea was home of one of the great inca kings.
Evening taken by Claudia to show. Brilliant. It was a story-fable about an inca girl who died to save her town. Teriffic dancing and choreography with visual effects and actors swinging about in the air in all directions. Great stuff, really enjoyed it.
Saturday, journey Cusco to Puna, everyone else went in train, second best scenic train journey in the world ( London to after Birmingham? I think someone was pulling my leg there) but no ticket for me aaaaaaaaaaaaw! But I went in minibus, just me and Claudia and driver ha ha, on road that mostly followed railway so saw all the scenery, stopped twice to visit ´sistine chapel of america´ and fascinating arceological site (more later), had amazing lunch, help yourself so went up 5 times including 2 puddings, journey took 3 hours less so had lie-in and saved 150 us dollars less 5 pounds for lunch ha ha.
Claudia excellent guide (with us to end of trip in La Paz), took me around Raqchi, the archeological site which includes the 500 year old central wall of a temple, 92 meters long and about 12 meters high, 1.7 to 3 meters wide. The bottom about 5 meters is made of huge stone blocks perfectly fitted together by the incas. the next 7 meters is made of clay, soli, silicon , other minerals, straw and other stuff and has amazingly survived 500 years. Also saw sets of houses, qolqas = large storage buildings, artificial lake, an inca wall surounding the town, inca bath places and part of an inca trail through the town. A great place to visit.
The Andean Sistine Chapel of America was very old 1572 and beautiful. It had an array of intricate artwork + loads of paintings by well known artists + gold plated woodwork and frames everywhere. A beautiful building in a small otherwise very ordinary village called Andahuaylillas in the middle of nowhere.
Now in Andina Hotel in Puno on edge of Lake Titycaca. Got to go now for evening meal, All the Best,
John
Friday rest day visited inca museum fascinating stuff 1000BC to 1400AD weapons, stonemason tools, pottery (some 1 metre high), pins, spoons, waeving instruments and loons, whistles, musical instruments, all well presented in a yniversity building near the main square.
Back to hotel, informed by manageress that Cindy and Dianes rooms walls are original inca stone walls. Next to hotel is archeological site and this plus hotel atea was home of one of the great inca kings.
Evening taken by Claudia to show. Brilliant. It was a story-fable about an inca girl who died to save her town. Teriffic dancing and choreography with visual effects and actors swinging about in the air in all directions. Great stuff, really enjoyed it.
Saturday, journey Cusco to Puna, everyone else went in train, second best scenic train journey in the world ( London to after Birmingham? I think someone was pulling my leg there) but no ticket for me aaaaaaaaaaaaw! But I went in minibus, just me and Claudia and driver ha ha, on road that mostly followed railway so saw all the scenery, stopped twice to visit ´sistine chapel of america´ and fascinating arceological site (more later), had amazing lunch, help yourself so went up 5 times including 2 puddings, journey took 3 hours less so had lie-in and saved 150 us dollars less 5 pounds for lunch ha ha.
Claudia excellent guide (with us to end of trip in La Paz), took me around Raqchi, the archeological site which includes the 500 year old central wall of a temple, 92 meters long and about 12 meters high, 1.7 to 3 meters wide. The bottom about 5 meters is made of huge stone blocks perfectly fitted together by the incas. the next 7 meters is made of clay, soli, silicon , other minerals, straw and other stuff and has amazingly survived 500 years. Also saw sets of houses, qolqas = large storage buildings, artificial lake, an inca wall surounding the town, inca bath places and part of an inca trail through the town. A great place to visit.
The Andean Sistine Chapel of America was very old 1572 and beautiful. It had an array of intricate artwork + loads of paintings by well known artists + gold plated woodwork and frames everywhere. A beautiful building in a small otherwise very ordinary village called Andahuaylillas in the middle of nowhere.
Now in Andina Hotel in Puno on edge of Lake Titycaca. Got to go now for evening meal, All the Best,
John
Thursday, September 11, 2008
Peru, Bolivia, Brazil Thurs 11 Sept 08
Peru, Bolivia, Brazil Thurs 11 Sept 08
Official tour of Machu Picchu with Claudia. Bussed up the switchback hill, half an hour, and in through the ticket office. There are thousands of tourists here but Claudia does an excellent job.
We are 2,432 meters above sea level on the side of a granite mountain in semi-tropical highland jungle. The rocks are mostly light grey in colour with a high content of quartz, mica and minerals which was used by the andean masons to construct a magnificent complex of buildings here.
It is believed that Machu Picchu was occupied by an elite section of the Incas, and its existance was not known about by the various non-inca tribes that had been subjugated by the Incas. Hence when the spanish came, and the non-incas told them all they wanted to know about the hated Inca empire, Machu Picchu remained undiscovered by the invaders. For some unknown reason, the Incas later abandoned Machu Picchu. Maybe a combination of disease, inability to trade sufficienly and greater opportunities in the spanish society.
In 1911, after some years searching for the fabled lost Inca city, Professor Hiram Bingham, an american, found the heavily overgrown ruins with the help of Melchor, a farmer, not our porter of course, it was a long time ago. With a young child as a guide provided by Melchor, Bingham discovered the Royal Tomb, the Principle Temple and the Temple of the three windows. Bingham removed tonnes of artyfacts and transported them to the USA with the promise that they would be studied and returned. Peru is still waiting, and its government is trying to get the USA University that has them to honour Binghams promise.
The name Machu Picchu comes from the mountain which had been given that name by the local people for many centuries.
Over the years since 1911 and still ongoing, the Peruvian authorities are uncovering and restoring this Inca city. They believe that up to 100,000 people lived here. It has a township area, terraces for agriculture, storage buildings, Royal enclosures, temples and towers, a guardhouse, gates, pathways and steps, and an astrological observatory. The sun was especially important to the Incas and they used the observarory to determine what time of year it was for sowing seeds, planting crops and harvesting.
The whole thing is a remarkable feat of stone masonry and building. Whilst it follows the contours of the mountan according to Incan custom, it was clearly a complete city providing all the requirements of the sophisticated and complex society that the Incas clearly sustained and continued to develop.
Am now in the little modern town at the bottom of the mountain, leaving at 3.30 by bus for Cusco where we have a "free" day tomorrow so no update planned for a couple of days.
Saturday we´re off the Lake Tittyhaha I think.
All the Best,
John
Official tour of Machu Picchu with Claudia. Bussed up the switchback hill, half an hour, and in through the ticket office. There are thousands of tourists here but Claudia does an excellent job.
We are 2,432 meters above sea level on the side of a granite mountain in semi-tropical highland jungle. The rocks are mostly light grey in colour with a high content of quartz, mica and minerals which was used by the andean masons to construct a magnificent complex of buildings here.
It is believed that Machu Picchu was occupied by an elite section of the Incas, and its existance was not known about by the various non-inca tribes that had been subjugated by the Incas. Hence when the spanish came, and the non-incas told them all they wanted to know about the hated Inca empire, Machu Picchu remained undiscovered by the invaders. For some unknown reason, the Incas later abandoned Machu Picchu. Maybe a combination of disease, inability to trade sufficienly and greater opportunities in the spanish society.
In 1911, after some years searching for the fabled lost Inca city, Professor Hiram Bingham, an american, found the heavily overgrown ruins with the help of Melchor, a farmer, not our porter of course, it was a long time ago. With a young child as a guide provided by Melchor, Bingham discovered the Royal Tomb, the Principle Temple and the Temple of the three windows. Bingham removed tonnes of artyfacts and transported them to the USA with the promise that they would be studied and returned. Peru is still waiting, and its government is trying to get the USA University that has them to honour Binghams promise.
The name Machu Picchu comes from the mountain which had been given that name by the local people for many centuries.
Over the years since 1911 and still ongoing, the Peruvian authorities are uncovering and restoring this Inca city. They believe that up to 100,000 people lived here. It has a township area, terraces for agriculture, storage buildings, Royal enclosures, temples and towers, a guardhouse, gates, pathways and steps, and an astrological observatory. The sun was especially important to the Incas and they used the observarory to determine what time of year it was for sowing seeds, planting crops and harvesting.
The whole thing is a remarkable feat of stone masonry and building. Whilst it follows the contours of the mountan according to Incan custom, it was clearly a complete city providing all the requirements of the sophisticated and complex society that the Incas clearly sustained and continued to develop.
Am now in the little modern town at the bottom of the mountain, leaving at 3.30 by bus for Cusco where we have a "free" day tomorrow so no update planned for a couple of days.
Saturday we´re off the Lake Tittyhaha I think.
All the Best,
John
Wednesday, September 10, 2008
Peru,Bolivia,Brazil Wed 10 Sept 08
Peru, Bolivia, Brazil Wed 10 Sept 08
Yesterday evening 5 of us had excellent farewell to Veronica meal in a restaurant on one side of the central square of Ollataytambo. I had alpaca steak, perfectly cooked. A group of musicians started to play, we were the only diners that evening, they turned out to be students earning some money to pay for their further education. The main guy was very good, I bought their CD to play to anyone who is travelling in my car instead of Laura Nyro.
Early (again) next morning said a sad farewell to Veronica and boarded train then bus to Machupicchu. The 4 of us walked the last section to the ruins of the settlement that the spanish invaders never found. It was eventually abandoned by the incas whose numbers had fallen from 20 million to about 6 million due mainly to disease, small pox etc. It was rediscovered in 1911. Since then, the overgrowth has been removed to reveal the walls of buildings, paths and terraces collectively forming a remarkable township perched high up in a remote part of the mountains.
We had a look at one side of the site, watched a bunch of indians practicing inca dancing for a "movie", then walked the trail up to the sun gate which is the end of the traditional tourist inca trail where the rest of our original group were due to arrive at 2pm. In fact they straggled in over a two hour period, we saw half of them arrive then returned to our hotel in the modern town below.
Visited the hot springs but had a few beers overlooking the pools rather than get wet. Bought a T shirt with a picture of a llama spitting at its handler (or a tourist?). Another evening meal, this time with the whole group, listening to their experiences. Some of them had been very poorly indeed with the altitude sickness.
Formal tour of Machupicchu tomorrow.
Now 10.40pm, ready for bed. All the Best,
John
Yesterday evening 5 of us had excellent farewell to Veronica meal in a restaurant on one side of the central square of Ollataytambo. I had alpaca steak, perfectly cooked. A group of musicians started to play, we were the only diners that evening, they turned out to be students earning some money to pay for their further education. The main guy was very good, I bought their CD to play to anyone who is travelling in my car instead of Laura Nyro.
Early (again) next morning said a sad farewell to Veronica and boarded train then bus to Machupicchu. The 4 of us walked the last section to the ruins of the settlement that the spanish invaders never found. It was eventually abandoned by the incas whose numbers had fallen from 20 million to about 6 million due mainly to disease, small pox etc. It was rediscovered in 1911. Since then, the overgrowth has been removed to reveal the walls of buildings, paths and terraces collectively forming a remarkable township perched high up in a remote part of the mountains.
We had a look at one side of the site, watched a bunch of indians practicing inca dancing for a "movie", then walked the trail up to the sun gate which is the end of the traditional tourist inca trail where the rest of our original group were due to arrive at 2pm. In fact they straggled in over a two hour period, we saw half of them arrive then returned to our hotel in the modern town below.
Visited the hot springs but had a few beers overlooking the pools rather than get wet. Bought a T shirt with a picture of a llama spitting at its handler (or a tourist?). Another evening meal, this time with the whole group, listening to their experiences. Some of them had been very poorly indeed with the altitude sickness.
Formal tour of Machupicchu tomorrow.
Now 10.40pm, ready for bed. All the Best,
John
Tuesday, September 09, 2008
Peru,Bolivia,Brazil 6 - 9 Sept 08
Peru, Bolivia, Brazil 6 - 9 Sept 08
Spectacular, Exceptional beauty, an amazing place.
We have trekked for 4 days through the Andean mountains of Peru, up to the highest pass at 4,575 meters, and down through the Sacred Inca Valley. Led by Veronica and 5 strong support team more of whom later, we followed inca trails level with the snow line, then descended into small plains and valleys. We met families and groups of people who live and flourish in this harsh environment, with mountains towering over them all around, beautiful landscapes from which they forge a living. These people are skilled in many ways, crop and livestock farming, preparing wools as described before and weaving, trading and travelling long distances to do so. School is compulsory for the children and they also walk a long way every school-day.
The most important person in our team, after Veronica, was the cook. His name is Juan and he had an assistant, Isac. The porters were led by Herman who kept close to us with his horse. The other porters, Raimundo and Melchor, went ahead each day with gang of llamas (pronounced yamas here) carring the tents and most of our gear. Camp sites were set up and made ready before our arrival each day. The dining tent had a table and 5 chairs for Veronica and us 4 trekkers. Lunch, tea, dinner, all superb, more later.
My fellow trekkers (are there 2 ks in trekkers? please let me know) were Stewart, Ray and Cindy all from West Australia. A great group, we gelled really well, with Stewart and Ray cracking jokes and all of us laughing much of the time.
Day 1, 6th, we were driven to Testayoc and left with Veronica and tha porters to start the trek which was up and up and up and up........
Now I must mention the effects of altitude. You can,t get enough oxygen into your lungs, however fit you are. Our time in Cusco and Ollantaytambo had helped us to adapt but this was something else. I had to open my mouth and nose and take in as much air as possible, it was very hard at times. Up and up and up..... Met Katy Magaly and her brother Joel on the way, then their father who told them to go with us to the camp site. They were very shy but enjoyed the experience and we chatted with them through Veronica a lot. Spanish is not the first language of the people who live in these remote areas, and Veronica is learning their language.
We all made it in good time according to Veronica to our first camp site at Tastayoq, 4,100 metres. It was bloody cold. Had a welcome cream corn soup and a salad for lunch, popcorn for tea and a beef meal and pudding for dinner.
My feet were frozen all night. Didn't get much sleep.
Day2 7th Porrige and bread and lovely marmalades for breakfast then up, up, up ........ to Huaraqtanqa Pass entrance, 4,480 metres. Saw Andean geese, a mountain caracara (a type of falcon) and an Andean Gaviota. Met Lilia, 9 years old who brought some woven goods up to us from her mother who was weaving and watching over some sheep further down the valley. This was in the middle of no-where. Mountains all around, and this lady, Beatrice, sat on the grass weaving with her 9 year old daughter. They come from the village of Ramira and are part of the Patacancha community. We went down to Beatrice, looked at the things she had made and bought a few things. I bought a nice llama each for Jo and Faye. The whole thing was an out of this world experience. Especially when I put my hand on a grassy mound which left me with a hundred prickles in my hand. I felt better about it when Veronica was helping me to pull them out.
We camped at Sondar Mayo, 4,420 metres, even colder. Lunch, tea and dinner all delicious, including pumpkin soup at some point. Bedtime, filled 2 bottles with hot water, wrapped them and put them by my feet. A better night's sleep.
Day 3, 8th, more porrige and eggs and bacon and marmalade on bread and up, up, up .... to Halancoma Pass 4575 metres, the highest point of our trek. Beautiful scenic views all around, we have had these all the way, but now we are level with the snow line. Breathtaking, literally.
now down, down, down, to the village of Pallata in the Patacancha Valley. Met more ladies and children, all in traditional dress with beautiful weavings. Cindy bought an incredibly colourful blanket. Passed small farms with cattle, pigs, llamas and horses. Photographed wild flowers, orchids, lupins, polylepis, red kanta, got one great picture of Veronica holding a ladies slipper bloom.
Special dinner today, our last night, with wine. Veronica definately a bit tipsy.
We are much lower altitude now, slept like sleeping beauty.
Camped at Pumama rea, just below an archeological site of an Inca Temple. Fascinating ruins designed with zig zag walls to honour lightening.
Day 4, 9th, today, followed Inca Trail along the side if the Inka Secret Valley. Followed incredible Inka aquaduct which is part of a network of constructed water-coursed supplying terraces down through the valley. Tremendous engineering. More vegetation, flowers, trees now. Eventually on to road ind in to Ollantaytambo. On the outskirts, came to a primaryu school having a pet animal competition. Each child had dressed up their pet with coats, pants, hats etc, there were, dogs, ducks, a baby llama, a baby goat, with teachers with clip-boards judging. We were invited in and the kids loved it.
Got to go now for farewell to Veronica evening meal.
All the Best,
John
Spectacular, Exceptional beauty, an amazing place.
We have trekked for 4 days through the Andean mountains of Peru, up to the highest pass at 4,575 meters, and down through the Sacred Inca Valley. Led by Veronica and 5 strong support team more of whom later, we followed inca trails level with the snow line, then descended into small plains and valleys. We met families and groups of people who live and flourish in this harsh environment, with mountains towering over them all around, beautiful landscapes from which they forge a living. These people are skilled in many ways, crop and livestock farming, preparing wools as described before and weaving, trading and travelling long distances to do so. School is compulsory for the children and they also walk a long way every school-day.
The most important person in our team, after Veronica, was the cook. His name is Juan and he had an assistant, Isac. The porters were led by Herman who kept close to us with his horse. The other porters, Raimundo and Melchor, went ahead each day with gang of llamas (pronounced yamas here) carring the tents and most of our gear. Camp sites were set up and made ready before our arrival each day. The dining tent had a table and 5 chairs for Veronica and us 4 trekkers. Lunch, tea, dinner, all superb, more later.
My fellow trekkers (are there 2 ks in trekkers? please let me know) were Stewart, Ray and Cindy all from West Australia. A great group, we gelled really well, with Stewart and Ray cracking jokes and all of us laughing much of the time.
Day 1, 6th, we were driven to Testayoc and left with Veronica and tha porters to start the trek which was up and up and up and up........
Now I must mention the effects of altitude. You can,t get enough oxygen into your lungs, however fit you are. Our time in Cusco and Ollantaytambo had helped us to adapt but this was something else. I had to open my mouth and nose and take in as much air as possible, it was very hard at times. Up and up and up..... Met Katy Magaly and her brother Joel on the way, then their father who told them to go with us to the camp site. They were very shy but enjoyed the experience and we chatted with them through Veronica a lot. Spanish is not the first language of the people who live in these remote areas, and Veronica is learning their language.
We all made it in good time according to Veronica to our first camp site at Tastayoq, 4,100 metres. It was bloody cold. Had a welcome cream corn soup and a salad for lunch, popcorn for tea and a beef meal and pudding for dinner.
My feet were frozen all night. Didn't get much sleep.
Day2 7th Porrige and bread and lovely marmalades for breakfast then up, up, up ........ to Huaraqtanqa Pass entrance, 4,480 metres. Saw Andean geese, a mountain caracara (a type of falcon) and an Andean Gaviota. Met Lilia, 9 years old who brought some woven goods up to us from her mother who was weaving and watching over some sheep further down the valley. This was in the middle of no-where. Mountains all around, and this lady, Beatrice, sat on the grass weaving with her 9 year old daughter. They come from the village of Ramira and are part of the Patacancha community. We went down to Beatrice, looked at the things she had made and bought a few things. I bought a nice llama each for Jo and Faye. The whole thing was an out of this world experience. Especially when I put my hand on a grassy mound which left me with a hundred prickles in my hand. I felt better about it when Veronica was helping me to pull them out.
We camped at Sondar Mayo, 4,420 metres, even colder. Lunch, tea and dinner all delicious, including pumpkin soup at some point. Bedtime, filled 2 bottles with hot water, wrapped them and put them by my feet. A better night's sleep.
Day 3, 8th, more porrige and eggs and bacon and marmalade on bread and up, up, up .... to Halancoma Pass 4575 metres, the highest point of our trek. Beautiful scenic views all around, we have had these all the way, but now we are level with the snow line. Breathtaking, literally.
now down, down, down, to the village of Pallata in the Patacancha Valley. Met more ladies and children, all in traditional dress with beautiful weavings. Cindy bought an incredibly colourful blanket. Passed small farms with cattle, pigs, llamas and horses. Photographed wild flowers, orchids, lupins, polylepis, red kanta, got one great picture of Veronica holding a ladies slipper bloom.
Special dinner today, our last night, with wine. Veronica definately a bit tipsy.
We are much lower altitude now, slept like sleeping beauty.
Camped at Pumama rea, just below an archeological site of an Inca Temple. Fascinating ruins designed with zig zag walls to honour lightening.
Day 4, 9th, today, followed Inca Trail along the side if the Inka Secret Valley. Followed incredible Inka aquaduct which is part of a network of constructed water-coursed supplying terraces down through the valley. Tremendous engineering. More vegetation, flowers, trees now. Eventually on to road ind in to Ollantaytambo. On the outskirts, came to a primaryu school having a pet animal competition. Each child had dressed up their pet with coats, pants, hats etc, there were, dogs, ducks, a baby llama, a baby goat, with teachers with clip-boards judging. We were invited in and the kids loved it.
Got to go now for farewell to Veronica evening meal.
All the Best,
John
Friday, September 05, 2008
Peru, Bolivia, Brazil 5/9/08
Peru, Bolivia, Brazil 5/9/08
Left Cusco by bus to Chinchero, an Inca township on the trail between Cusco and Machu Picchu. It has been an agricultural community for centuries, they have found pottery from 1500BC. The surrounding hills and valleys are covered in terraced plots growing a variety of crops, everything you can think of including 160 varieties of potato. (Peru supplied Europe during potato famines 18c?). This is a very striking place, with its Inka stone walling and backdrop of the Andes all around.
We were taken to a courtyard where a group of ladies in traditional dress (which they wear all the time anyway) have set themselves up to demonstrate wool cleaning, dyeing, spinning and weaving. Very impressive using a host of natural resources to very effectively wash and make colours for the wool, which is from alpacas (the best quality) and sheep. Startlingly colourful array of things they have made to sell displayed under lean-tos in their yard. Bought an orange bobble hat and belt for myself and some nice things for Jo and Faye. The wool is very soft and cosy.
Driving on to next stop, the bus seems tiny in these awsome landscapes, huge plains and hillsides divided into millions of plots, all surrounded by snow-capped mountains looming over us.
Most of the higher plots are tilled but empty, just a few showing green shoots of their spring crops pushing through. There are some large fields that look as though they have had grains harvested some months ago. They do grow wheat and barley here as well as lots of maize.
Descended into The Inca Sacred Valley. Stopped to walk for two hours, the first part through a huge series of terraced salt ponds, where very salty water from a mountain steam is directed via a network of channels into hundreds of these ponds. About 6´´/150mm deep, the water evaporates leaving pure salt which is manually harvested to supply this whole region. The whole thing, which has been in operation for over 2000 years, is owned by the community.
Next lunch in a Willkamajo restaurant. Wow, brilliant, 4 buffet courses as much as you wanted, salad, soup, spaghetti with beef, chicken,roast potatos, selection of puddings, I had 2, a strawberry thing and a lime jelly.
On to Ollantaytambo, the premier town in the Sacred Valley of the Incas. A beautiful place, massive mountains seem almost on top of us all around. I am in their internet shop right now, on the edge of the town square. Flowers in the gardens, including a long red bell shaped flower that was the Inca´s sacred flower representing water, a vital resource for this sophisticated agricultural society.
Overnight here then the treking begins tomorrow. May not be internet shops on the trail so may be a few days before next blog.
This is a great place to be,
All the Best,
John
Left Cusco by bus to Chinchero, an Inca township on the trail between Cusco and Machu Picchu. It has been an agricultural community for centuries, they have found pottery from 1500BC. The surrounding hills and valleys are covered in terraced plots growing a variety of crops, everything you can think of including 160 varieties of potato. (Peru supplied Europe during potato famines 18c?). This is a very striking place, with its Inka stone walling and backdrop of the Andes all around.
We were taken to a courtyard where a group of ladies in traditional dress (which they wear all the time anyway) have set themselves up to demonstrate wool cleaning, dyeing, spinning and weaving. Very impressive using a host of natural resources to very effectively wash and make colours for the wool, which is from alpacas (the best quality) and sheep. Startlingly colourful array of things they have made to sell displayed under lean-tos in their yard. Bought an orange bobble hat and belt for myself and some nice things for Jo and Faye. The wool is very soft and cosy.
Driving on to next stop, the bus seems tiny in these awsome landscapes, huge plains and hillsides divided into millions of plots, all surrounded by snow-capped mountains looming over us.
Most of the higher plots are tilled but empty, just a few showing green shoots of their spring crops pushing through. There are some large fields that look as though they have had grains harvested some months ago. They do grow wheat and barley here as well as lots of maize.
Descended into The Inca Sacred Valley. Stopped to walk for two hours, the first part through a huge series of terraced salt ponds, where very salty water from a mountain steam is directed via a network of channels into hundreds of these ponds. About 6´´/150mm deep, the water evaporates leaving pure salt which is manually harvested to supply this whole region. The whole thing, which has been in operation for over 2000 years, is owned by the community.
Next lunch in a Willkamajo restaurant. Wow, brilliant, 4 buffet courses as much as you wanted, salad, soup, spaghetti with beef, chicken,roast potatos, selection of puddings, I had 2, a strawberry thing and a lime jelly.
On to Ollantaytambo, the premier town in the Sacred Valley of the Incas. A beautiful place, massive mountains seem almost on top of us all around. I am in their internet shop right now, on the edge of the town square. Flowers in the gardens, including a long red bell shaped flower that was the Inca´s sacred flower representing water, a vital resource for this sophisticated agricultural society.
Overnight here then the treking begins tomorrow. May not be internet shops on the trail so may be a few days before next blog.
This is a great place to be,
All the Best,
John
Thursday, September 04, 2008
Peru, Bolivia,Brazil 4.9.08
Peru,Boliivia,Brazil 4.9.08
Met new guide, Cusycoullour. Her name means Happystar = Venus.
Today is for touristing Cusco. This city was the centre of the Inca Empire which was huge in the years before the spanish stuck their oar in. The stratagy of the Inka Kings was to employ diplomacy when setting out to absorb neighbouring communities, doubtless in conjunction with a show of force. They also incorporated the new tribes´ religious beliefs and ceremonies into their own, thus avoiding resistance on this basis. (Maybe christian and moslem empires could have learned something from these people)
The Incas were actually just the latest (and last) of a series of rulers of this part of the world. Civilisation here had been developing over thousands of years, resulting in sophisticated agriculture and building practices in particular, all inherited and developed further by the Incas.
We visited Qorikancha. Under spanish rule, this had become a Dominican monastery, but they built this on top of an Inca set of buildings that formed the centre of Inca rule and religion in Cusco and hence their empire, and in their minds therefore - the world. The Incas called this place The Royal House of the Sun. In modern times, the Peruvians have uncovered and cleaned up remaining inca structures and their stonework is breathtaking. Huge stone sections perfectly fitting together, with no morter, but lumps and grooves that key in exactly, a kind of ancient tongue and groove in stone, but on a massive scale. Remarkable to see.
Next a drive up and up and up to the top of a hill overlooking Cusco to a place called Saqsaywaman. An amazing series of stoneworks integrated into natural rock formations in places, a massive area that took tens of years maybe centuries and millions of workers to create. Huge stones quarried and transported from hills miles away. In one hillside, they created three massive zig-zag lines of stone walls to look like lightening flowing down the hill. Incredible stuff.
Sadly, after their civilisation was superceeded by the spanish invadors, millions of Incas were destroyed by disease imported by europeans, mainly smallpox from spain.
Got a photo of me standing with a genuine Inca Chief - only 1 sol = about 20p.
Next back to the main square of Cusco for a set lunch - only 15 sol for 3 courses and my lucky day it was another member of the groups birthday so we all had a piece of his chocolate birthday cake.
Then on to the Cathedral also in the square. As has happened so many times, the conquerers destroyed the previous civilisation´s religious building, in this case the Incas´, and built their own in its place. An impressive structure with much gold leaf covered carvings and valuable paintings.
I like Cusco, it´s more like a town than a city really, buzzing but not cold and impersonal. I would recommend it to anyone but remember the altitude - 3,500 metres I think. The effect is like a combination of a mild hangover and motion nausia in a boat.
We´re on the move again tomorrow. All the Best to everyone,
John
Met new guide, Cusycoullour. Her name means Happystar = Venus.
Today is for touristing Cusco. This city was the centre of the Inca Empire which was huge in the years before the spanish stuck their oar in. The stratagy of the Inka Kings was to employ diplomacy when setting out to absorb neighbouring communities, doubtless in conjunction with a show of force. They also incorporated the new tribes´ religious beliefs and ceremonies into their own, thus avoiding resistance on this basis. (Maybe christian and moslem empires could have learned something from these people)
The Incas were actually just the latest (and last) of a series of rulers of this part of the world. Civilisation here had been developing over thousands of years, resulting in sophisticated agriculture and building practices in particular, all inherited and developed further by the Incas.
We visited Qorikancha. Under spanish rule, this had become a Dominican monastery, but they built this on top of an Inca set of buildings that formed the centre of Inca rule and religion in Cusco and hence their empire, and in their minds therefore - the world. The Incas called this place The Royal House of the Sun. In modern times, the Peruvians have uncovered and cleaned up remaining inca structures and their stonework is breathtaking. Huge stone sections perfectly fitting together, with no morter, but lumps and grooves that key in exactly, a kind of ancient tongue and groove in stone, but on a massive scale. Remarkable to see.
Next a drive up and up and up to the top of a hill overlooking Cusco to a place called Saqsaywaman. An amazing series of stoneworks integrated into natural rock formations in places, a massive area that took tens of years maybe centuries and millions of workers to create. Huge stones quarried and transported from hills miles away. In one hillside, they created three massive zig-zag lines of stone walls to look like lightening flowing down the hill. Incredible stuff.
Sadly, after their civilisation was superceeded by the spanish invadors, millions of Incas were destroyed by disease imported by europeans, mainly smallpox from spain.
Got a photo of me standing with a genuine Inca Chief - only 1 sol = about 20p.
Next back to the main square of Cusco for a set lunch - only 15 sol for 3 courses and my lucky day it was another member of the groups birthday so we all had a piece of his chocolate birthday cake.
Then on to the Cathedral also in the square. As has happened so many times, the conquerers destroyed the previous civilisation´s religious building, in this case the Incas´, and built their own in its place. An impressive structure with much gold leaf covered carvings and valuable paintings.
I like Cusco, it´s more like a town than a city really, buzzing but not cold and impersonal. I would recommend it to anyone but remember the altitude - 3,500 metres I think. The effect is like a combination of a mild hangover and motion nausia in a boat.
We´re on the move again tomorrow. All the Best to everyone,
John
Wednesday, September 03, 2008
Peru, Bolivia, Brazil 31 Aug - 3 Sept 08
Peru, Bolivia, Brazil 31 Aug - 3 Sept 08
31 Aug
All day flying via Madrid, arrived Lima 5pm, 6 hrs behind UK. Met by Omar, a student of languages, now learning italian to add to spanish, english and french.
Long drive thru Lima then only time for short walk around hotel in evening.
1 Sept
Good breakfast, joined group of 15 in lobby then early departure for flight over Andes to Cusco then Puerto Maldonado where met by our jungle guides, Fernando (from Cusco) and Lennie (a member of one of the local native communities).
From Maldonado, a long drive on dry earth roads through areas cleared of jungle, some cropping and livestock but mostly sparse wild new vegetation where earlier crops had used up most of the nutrients in the soil.
Then a long river trip (a tributory of the Amazon) (lunch on the boat was rice and veg in rolled up bannana tree leaves) followed by a trek through dense ancient jungle to The Lodge. Stopped to admire white caymen, side-neck turtles, hawks high up in the sky, macaws in the trees, many types of birds and butterflies on the way.
The Lodge is all timber, thatch and bamboo with many rooms for visitors. Very basic, but with an en-suite bathroom and running (cold only) water. The shower is very refreshing. Bedroom and bathroom each have one end wholly open to the dense jungle 2 meters away. Oil lamps and a candle for light. Mosquito net over the very comfortable bed.
Afternoon straight out for trek in the jungle, introduced to a brazil nut tree - coconut type shells containing 10 - 25 nuts fall in Dec - march when whole families are licensed to collect and sell them. Then dusky monkeys darting through the trees quite close to us. Fascinating.
Back to lodge for dinner (excellent) then jungle trek to 37 meter/120ft tower to admire the canopy. (I reluctantly agreed to forgo this pleasure to look after the bags at the bottom)
Back to Lodge, good nights sleep, woken by something falling onto the net over bed, pitch black, continual din from the open jungle a few meters away great stuff.
2 Sept
Wake up call 4am, breakfast 4.30, depart 5am for Chimbadas Lake. Herons, other lakeside birds, more macaws, tookans high in the trees hoping around and making a lot of noise, splashing in the water of giant otters further up the lake. Fishing for pirannah, caught 2, beautiful fish, put them back in the lake. Back tto Lodge.
Another trek to a hide to watch macaws licking salt. They stayed high up in the trees due to a hawk circling nearby, but Fernando got an excellent photo for me through his telescope.
Back to Lodge, free time, I lay in hammock in room only to be treated to a bunch of saddle back tamarins passing through the jungle right outside my open-ended room. What a great place this is to be.
Another excellent lunch then off to visit the local Shaman = doctor. He is an expert in preparing medicines and potions for the local people who cannot afford the town doctors and hospitals. He had some very potentially useful sounding potions. We all had our faces painted to encourage the good spirits to watch over us. On the way back, crossing a narrow bridge over a shallow water course, interrupted a opossum wrestling with a cane toad in its mouth just feet away from me. Wow. More monkeys in the trees, got some decent photos. Evening with Lennie in the jungle, only 5 of us volunteered to join her with torches searching for spiders and other various night-time creatures.
Stood on a line of ants, thousands of them carrying bits of leaf to their nest. They seemed quite angry. Managed to shake most of them off my boots. Lennie not happy.
3 Sept
7am breakfast, 8am departure, trek to river, disturbed copyu next to path, it froze then made a crashing noise as it ran from us. Back to Maladonado and sad goodbyes to Fernando and Lennie. Flew to Cusco where I am entering this blog in internet cafe. Have walked aroun the city a bit and like it much more than Lima. New guide Claudia here. 3000 meters plus so much cooler at night. Hotel very nice, friendly. Every one here very friendly, professional, efficient. All very impressive. Meal in restaurant, local food, starter especially enjoyable, a new taste to me. Back to bed now.
A great first few days, the jungle is an amazing place, lovely people. All the Best, John
31 Aug
All day flying via Madrid, arrived Lima 5pm, 6 hrs behind UK. Met by Omar, a student of languages, now learning italian to add to spanish, english and french.
Long drive thru Lima then only time for short walk around hotel in evening.
1 Sept
Good breakfast, joined group of 15 in lobby then early departure for flight over Andes to Cusco then Puerto Maldonado where met by our jungle guides, Fernando (from Cusco) and Lennie (a member of one of the local native communities).
From Maldonado, a long drive on dry earth roads through areas cleared of jungle, some cropping and livestock but mostly sparse wild new vegetation where earlier crops had used up most of the nutrients in the soil.
Then a long river trip (a tributory of the Amazon) (lunch on the boat was rice and veg in rolled up bannana tree leaves) followed by a trek through dense ancient jungle to The Lodge. Stopped to admire white caymen, side-neck turtles, hawks high up in the sky, macaws in the trees, many types of birds and butterflies on the way.
The Lodge is all timber, thatch and bamboo with many rooms for visitors. Very basic, but with an en-suite bathroom and running (cold only) water. The shower is very refreshing. Bedroom and bathroom each have one end wholly open to the dense jungle 2 meters away. Oil lamps and a candle for light. Mosquito net over the very comfortable bed.
Afternoon straight out for trek in the jungle, introduced to a brazil nut tree - coconut type shells containing 10 - 25 nuts fall in Dec - march when whole families are licensed to collect and sell them. Then dusky monkeys darting through the trees quite close to us. Fascinating.
Back to lodge for dinner (excellent) then jungle trek to 37 meter/120ft tower to admire the canopy. (I reluctantly agreed to forgo this pleasure to look after the bags at the bottom)
Back to Lodge, good nights sleep, woken by something falling onto the net over bed, pitch black, continual din from the open jungle a few meters away great stuff.
2 Sept
Wake up call 4am, breakfast 4.30, depart 5am for Chimbadas Lake. Herons, other lakeside birds, more macaws, tookans high in the trees hoping around and making a lot of noise, splashing in the water of giant otters further up the lake. Fishing for pirannah, caught 2, beautiful fish, put them back in the lake. Back tto Lodge.
Another trek to a hide to watch macaws licking salt. They stayed high up in the trees due to a hawk circling nearby, but Fernando got an excellent photo for me through his telescope.
Back to Lodge, free time, I lay in hammock in room only to be treated to a bunch of saddle back tamarins passing through the jungle right outside my open-ended room. What a great place this is to be.
Another excellent lunch then off to visit the local Shaman = doctor. He is an expert in preparing medicines and potions for the local people who cannot afford the town doctors and hospitals. He had some very potentially useful sounding potions. We all had our faces painted to encourage the good spirits to watch over us. On the way back, crossing a narrow bridge over a shallow water course, interrupted a opossum wrestling with a cane toad in its mouth just feet away from me. Wow. More monkeys in the trees, got some decent photos. Evening with Lennie in the jungle, only 5 of us volunteered to join her with torches searching for spiders and other various night-time creatures.
Stood on a line of ants, thousands of them carrying bits of leaf to their nest. They seemed quite angry. Managed to shake most of them off my boots. Lennie not happy.
3 Sept
7am breakfast, 8am departure, trek to river, disturbed copyu next to path, it froze then made a crashing noise as it ran from us. Back to Maladonado and sad goodbyes to Fernando and Lennie. Flew to Cusco where I am entering this blog in internet cafe. Have walked aroun the city a bit and like it much more than Lima. New guide Claudia here. 3000 meters plus so much cooler at night. Hotel very nice, friendly. Every one here very friendly, professional, efficient. All very impressive. Meal in restaurant, local food, starter especially enjoyable, a new taste to me. Back to bed now.
A great first few days, the jungle is an amazing place, lovely people. All the Best, John
Saturday, August 23, 2008
August 2008
August 2008
Saturday 9th, all day at National Eisteddfod, this year at Cardiff. It is a huge annual festival, the largest in Europe for competitive music and poetry-writing. The modern Eisteddfod started in 1881 but some aspects of the festival go back 1500 years. Listened to 13 large (>100) and medium size male voice choirs, amazing power and quality singing in which the welsh excel of course. Hope to go to next year's in Bala (the town not the lake)
Mon 11th - Wed 13th
A short trip to the Republic of Ireland. It was a bit rough on the ferry but enjoyed the drive to the Slieve Russel Hotel north of Dublin, near Ballyconnel. Excellent meals in the restaurant, not huge but beautifully cooked and presented.
Sunday 31st, flying to Lima, Peru.
Saturday 9th, all day at National Eisteddfod, this year at Cardiff. It is a huge annual festival, the largest in Europe for competitive music and poetry-writing. The modern Eisteddfod started in 1881 but some aspects of the festival go back 1500 years. Listened to 13 large (>100) and medium size male voice choirs, amazing power and quality singing in which the welsh excel of course. Hope to go to next year's in Bala (the town not the lake)
Mon 11th - Wed 13th
A short trip to the Republic of Ireland. It was a bit rough on the ferry but enjoyed the drive to the Slieve Russel Hotel north of Dublin, near Ballyconnel. Excellent meals in the restaurant, not huge but beautifully cooked and presented.
Sunday 31st, flying to Lima, Peru.
Monday, March 17, 2008
Vietnam and Thailand '08 day 29 - 35
Vietnam and Thailand '08 day 29 - 35
Now 5pm on last day here. Had another swim in the sea today. You know how pleasant it is after feeling cold all day to get into a nice warm bath - well here, after feeling a bit too hot all day, it is just great to submerge yourself into the nicely cool, but never cold, sea.
Had a great holiday, and so looking forward to seeing everyone at home again. Even missed Megan and Tigga and co.
All the Best to everyone
John
Now 5pm on last day here. Had another swim in the sea today. You know how pleasant it is after feeling cold all day to get into a nice warm bath - well here, after feeling a bit too hot all day, it is just great to submerge yourself into the nicely cool, but never cold, sea.
Had a great holiday, and so looking forward to seeing everyone at home again. Even missed Megan and Tigga and co.
All the Best to everyone
John
Wednesday, March 12, 2008
Vietnam and Thailand '08 day 22 - 28
Vietnam and Thailand '08 day 22 - 28
Not a lot to report really. Weather always hot, some cloud, a little rain, lots of sun. Eaten too many free danish pastries and free biscuits, really enjoying the local food in The Elephant Restaurant. Slept a lot, had a few swims in the pool and runs along the beach. (no trips) Love it here.
See you all soon,
John
Not a lot to report really. Weather always hot, some cloud, a little rain, lots of sun. Eaten too many free danish pastries and free biscuits, really enjoying the local food in The Elephant Restaurant. Slept a lot, had a few swims in the pool and runs along the beach. (no trips) Love it here.
See you all soon,
John
Monday, March 03, 2008
Vietnam and Thailand '08 day 15 - 21
Vietnam and Thailand '08 day 15 - 21
Hello all, it's catch up time.
Been here in Phuket 1 week now and it's blissful.
Some really good news about the hotel, they provide free danish pastries all day every day. Very fresh and tasty they are too.
Elephant Restaurant is as good as ever, they have a huge selection of local dishes, had a different one every time so far, I look forward to my meal there each evening.
No trips here so far, just relaxing with a few swims and runs in between.
Planning to make next posting 1 week from today.
Best wishes to everyone,
John
Hello all, it's catch up time.
Been here in Phuket 1 week now and it's blissful.
Some really good news about the hotel, they provide free danish pastries all day every day. Very fresh and tasty they are too.
Elephant Restaurant is as good as ever, they have a huge selection of local dishes, had a different one every time so far, I look forward to my meal there each evening.
No trips here so far, just relaxing with a few swims and runs in between.
Planning to make next posting 1 week from today.
Best wishes to everyone,
John
Sunday, March 02, 2008
Vietnam ans Thailand '08 day 14
Vietnam and Thailand '08 day 14
Had time for one last walk around Chiang Mai before flights via Bangkok to Phuket. All went well and on time.
Now in the same resort in Phuket as last year, it's always nice to come back to a familiar place. Especially welcome is the 7 course breakfast, all good quality tasty stuff.
The programme here is to do some relaxing, reading, eating and sleeping. Maybe try to get a bit fit in between.
Plan to report progress tomorrow.
All the Best,
John
Had time for one last walk around Chiang Mai before flights via Bangkok to Phuket. All went well and on time.
Now in the same resort in Phuket as last year, it's always nice to come back to a familiar place. Especially welcome is the 7 course breakfast, all good quality tasty stuff.
The programme here is to do some relaxing, reading, eating and sleeping. Maybe try to get a bit fit in between.
Plan to report progress tomorrow.
All the Best,
John
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