Rajasthan 14 January 2010
Well this is the penultimate day of the tour, with not much to report. This is a 'free' day so I wander through the streets and bazaar with various other members of the group. Selling is particularly aggressive here, so we learn never to accept a hand offered for shaking because they don't let go. Many want to bestow religious blessings on you at potentially extortionate cost. One trick they play here is to tell you a number when you ask how much, then after you have said yes they say it's dollars not ruperts. Not nice.
Despite the selling practices, this is a charming town and well worth a visit. I buy Slumdog Millionaire dvd from a shopkeeper who is friendly and helpful but almost blind.
We are meeting early evening to catch the overnight train to Delhi. More on this tomorrow.
All the Best, John
Thursday, January 28, 2010
Wednesday, January 27, 2010
Rajasthan 13 january 2010
Rajasthan 13 January 2010
The 6am train leaves at 6.15! We are in comfortable class, so I sleep for much of the 5 and half hours in the train to Aimer. Here we climb into a small bus, our bags are on the roof, just. Soon we are in a traffic jam. Streets are closed because the Prime Minister of Bangladesh is in town. Eventually, and via Snake Pass, we arrive in our hotel in Pushkar. This is a holy town containing India's only Brahma Temple, a holy lake, pilgrims from all over India and hippies from Hastings.
Our 'orientation' walk takes us through.............hundreds of small shops! There is a difference though, many of the 'locals' are westerners, presumably settling in Pushkar to find enlightenment, helped by the puffing of these long pipes so popular in India. I don't think they contain shag tobacco.
Next, back at the hotel, we are joined by 11 camels. One for each of us. Mounting a camel (to ride) is not easy. As my regular readers will know, I am an experienced rider of exotic animals, having already ridden a camel in Dubai, an ostrich in Africa and a Dartmoor pony in Devon. However, on this camel, there is only a small 'pommel' to hold onto, positioned at the front of the saddle immediately in front of one's groin. It is disappointing that, after centuries of using these animals to transport people and goods, no-one has bred or trained camels that can rise from the kneeling position on all 4 legs simultaneously. I think it's the back legs that go up first, they tell you to lean back and you jolt forward into the pommel. Ouch. Then the other two legs go up and you rise to a ridiculous height above ground level. The camel starts walking and I hold on tightly to the tiny pommel, trying to stay on board and protect my unborn children. Each camel is led by a minder, and the safari takes us in single file on an hour's walk through the town and out into the desert where we stop for tea. Anmar our guide follows the camel train in a camel drawn cart. This is obviously for collecting group members that have fallen off their camels. I picture the cart at the end of the safari, piled up with injured tourists, broken arms and legs hanging out in all directions and Anmar still drinking the last of his tea. Fortunately, we all make it to the half-way tea stop with no casualties. Nobody has fallen off, but now we have to dismount. Ouch. The tea and biscuits are good, but we are serenaded by the musicians from hell. I am chatting with two of the girls and before we realise it, we are surrounded by three of them. I don't know how she does it, but Sarah-Jane escapes, ruthlessly abandoning me and Kylie to the strains of the most ear piercing tuneless scratching and scraping noises from stringed instruments constructed in a scrap yard by the devil himself. Kylie recovers her senses more quickly than me and pays them to go away.
For the ride back, we have to re-mount. Another ouch. This time, I make myself relax in the saddle and not hold on to the pommel so tightly. This makes the ride less uncomfortable and more relaxed. I take some good photos, risking total letting go of the pommel and twisting a bit to take photos. A couple of times, the minder makes my camel run, and after the initial shock, I realise that this is much more comfortable than walking. It is also an exhilarating ride.
Actually, the whole experience is amazing. The camels are serene, the desert landscape is stark and beautiful, and the sunset is incredible. A highlight of this trip and all my travels.
All the Best, John
The 6am train leaves at 6.15! We are in comfortable class, so I sleep for much of the 5 and half hours in the train to Aimer. Here we climb into a small bus, our bags are on the roof, just. Soon we are in a traffic jam. Streets are closed because the Prime Minister of Bangladesh is in town. Eventually, and via Snake Pass, we arrive in our hotel in Pushkar. This is a holy town containing India's only Brahma Temple, a holy lake, pilgrims from all over India and hippies from Hastings.
Our 'orientation' walk takes us through.............hundreds of small shops! There is a difference though, many of the 'locals' are westerners, presumably settling in Pushkar to find enlightenment, helped by the puffing of these long pipes so popular in India. I don't think they contain shag tobacco.
Next, back at the hotel, we are joined by 11 camels. One for each of us. Mounting a camel (to ride) is not easy. As my regular readers will know, I am an experienced rider of exotic animals, having already ridden a camel in Dubai, an ostrich in Africa and a Dartmoor pony in Devon. However, on this camel, there is only a small 'pommel' to hold onto, positioned at the front of the saddle immediately in front of one's groin. It is disappointing that, after centuries of using these animals to transport people and goods, no-one has bred or trained camels that can rise from the kneeling position on all 4 legs simultaneously. I think it's the back legs that go up first, they tell you to lean back and you jolt forward into the pommel. Ouch. Then the other two legs go up and you rise to a ridiculous height above ground level. The camel starts walking and I hold on tightly to the tiny pommel, trying to stay on board and protect my unborn children. Each camel is led by a minder, and the safari takes us in single file on an hour's walk through the town and out into the desert where we stop for tea. Anmar our guide follows the camel train in a camel drawn cart. This is obviously for collecting group members that have fallen off their camels. I picture the cart at the end of the safari, piled up with injured tourists, broken arms and legs hanging out in all directions and Anmar still drinking the last of his tea. Fortunately, we all make it to the half-way tea stop with no casualties. Nobody has fallen off, but now we have to dismount. Ouch. The tea and biscuits are good, but we are serenaded by the musicians from hell. I am chatting with two of the girls and before we realise it, we are surrounded by three of them. I don't know how she does it, but Sarah-Jane escapes, ruthlessly abandoning me and Kylie to the strains of the most ear piercing tuneless scratching and scraping noises from stringed instruments constructed in a scrap yard by the devil himself. Kylie recovers her senses more quickly than me and pays them to go away.
For the ride back, we have to re-mount. Another ouch. This time, I make myself relax in the saddle and not hold on to the pommel so tightly. This makes the ride less uncomfortable and more relaxed. I take some good photos, risking total letting go of the pommel and twisting a bit to take photos. A couple of times, the minder makes my camel run, and after the initial shock, I realise that this is much more comfortable than walking. It is also an exhilarating ride.
Actually, the whole experience is amazing. The camels are serene, the desert landscape is stark and beautiful, and the sunset is incredible. A highlight of this trip and all my travels.
All the Best, John
Monday, January 25, 2010
Rajasthan 12 January 2010
Rajasthan 12 January 2010
Quiet day today, no organised activity, just wandering around Upaipur. Firstly, I am guided by some of the girls in the group to a very small but excellent cake shop. Had a danish pastry the size of a small dinner plate, plus carrot cake and a pot of coffee. Great start to the day.
The streets in this town are narrow and twisty, especially near the lake. Here again there are hundreds of tiny shops, for locals and tourists. I spend 3 hours walking around and buy three bananas.
Most of the group meet for an evening meal, I have a mildly spicy spinach and chicken dish with egg fried rice - delicious. We learn from Anmar our guide that we start at 5.30am tomorrow, so it's an early night tonight. Big day tomorrow! Goodnight all, John
Quiet day today, no organised activity, just wandering around Upaipur. Firstly, I am guided by some of the girls in the group to a very small but excellent cake shop. Had a danish pastry the size of a small dinner plate, plus carrot cake and a pot of coffee. Great start to the day.
The streets in this town are narrow and twisty, especially near the lake. Here again there are hundreds of tiny shops, for locals and tourists. I spend 3 hours walking around and buy three bananas.
Most of the group meet for an evening meal, I have a mildly spicy spinach and chicken dish with egg fried rice - delicious. We learn from Anmar our guide that we start at 5.30am tomorrow, so it's an early night tonight. Big day tomorrow! Goodnight all, John
Friday, January 22, 2010
Rajasthan 11 january 2010
Rajasthan 11 january 2010
The drive to Udaipur takes us on to motorway for the first time. Interestingly, cyclists and trucks occasionally use the overtaking lane as if it is the left hand lane of a single carriageway and hence travel the wrong way in the fast lane. Pedestrians walking 3 abreast either way in all lanes add to the mayhem. And nobody slows down for anyone or anything (except cows of course).
Our hotel in Udaipur is on the edge of the lake. We have an 'orientation walk' through the town then a tour around the City Palace. Adjoining the lake, the Palace is built up the side of a cliff and is huge, the second largest in India.
Some of us take a boat trip around the lake, I get some photos of the Lake Palace which is made of white marble and rises up out of the water. The sunset behind the hill on the other side of the lake is striking.
The James Bond film 'Octopussy' was filmed here, so we all gather to watch it in one of the restaurants that continuously play it for tourists. The sound doesn't work on the tele so we all watch fascinated as the waiter inserts a screwdriver into the live television set and connects wires from independant speakers into it. Some of the action and dialogue in the film is very dated and there is much hilarity.
All the Best, John
The drive to Udaipur takes us on to motorway for the first time. Interestingly, cyclists and trucks occasionally use the overtaking lane as if it is the left hand lane of a single carriageway and hence travel the wrong way in the fast lane. Pedestrians walking 3 abreast either way in all lanes add to the mayhem. And nobody slows down for anyone or anything (except cows of course).
Our hotel in Udaipur is on the edge of the lake. We have an 'orientation walk' through the town then a tour around the City Palace. Adjoining the lake, the Palace is built up the side of a cliff and is huge, the second largest in India.
Some of us take a boat trip around the lake, I get some photos of the Lake Palace which is made of white marble and rises up out of the water. The sunset behind the hill on the other side of the lake is striking.
The James Bond film 'Octopussy' was filmed here, so we all gather to watch it in one of the restaurants that continuously play it for tourists. The sound doesn't work on the tele so we all watch fascinated as the waiter inserts a screwdriver into the live television set and connects wires from independant speakers into it. Some of the action and dialogue in the film is very dated and there is much hilarity.
All the Best, John
Thursday, January 21, 2010
Rajasthan 10 January 2010
Rajasthan 10 January 2010
We are driven, in jeeps again, on a 'village safari', and stop by some fields to be shown various crops. There is barley, onions, peanuts, turmeric, garlic and opium. The last is grown strictly under government license and, of course, none of it finds its way into the black market.
Next we stop by a 'Moonshine Tree', the product of which causes much merriment in the local population, but we have not had a taste yet.
The last stop in the middle of a village includes a visit to one of the homes. It is a single storey block built structure with maybe 2 rooms and a large yard filled with goats and children. Basic and enchanting.
We arrive at Castle Bijaipur Hotel for a welcome snack of sandwiches and chips, followed by swimming in the (rather cool) hotel pool, bike rides and table tennis for some of the group. I also have an early evening lone walk around Bijaipur village, looking in vain for an Internet cafe. I don't think they see many tourists outside of the hotel, but everyone is polite and friendly.
All the Best,
John
We are driven, in jeeps again, on a 'village safari', and stop by some fields to be shown various crops. There is barley, onions, peanuts, turmeric, garlic and opium. The last is grown strictly under government license and, of course, none of it finds its way into the black market.
Next we stop by a 'Moonshine Tree', the product of which causes much merriment in the local population, but we have not had a taste yet.
The last stop in the middle of a village includes a visit to one of the homes. It is a single storey block built structure with maybe 2 rooms and a large yard filled with goats and children. Basic and enchanting.
We arrive at Castle Bijaipur Hotel for a welcome snack of sandwiches and chips, followed by swimming in the (rather cool) hotel pool, bike rides and table tennis for some of the group. I also have an early evening lone walk around Bijaipur village, looking in vain for an Internet cafe. I don't think they see many tourists outside of the hotel, but everyone is polite and friendly.
All the Best,
John
Friday, January 15, 2010
Rajasthan 9 January 2010
Rajasthan 9 January 2010
We arrive at the station at 7am for 7.15 train that arrives at 11.40 due to fog. No comfy seats this time, we are in 'general' class, but crowdedness and discomfort are more than compensated by the group's interaction with local people who stare at us strange western folk. Vendors are selling spicy chic peas and peanuts. The peanut shells and other debris cover the floor, so there is a crackling sound as people walk by.
The scenery outside is varied, rocky desert in places, but also cultivated fields that must have required a huge amount of work to create and maintain in this landscape. There is the bright green of winter barley in its early stages, the yellow of oilseed rape/canola and the brown earth awaiting spring crops. All very ordered and tidy.
After 3 hours on the train, we alight at the tiny Bassi Station where two jeeps are waiting for us. One and half hours in these takes us along the narrowest and roughest of tracks and roads, through villages and cultivated countryside. Crops include opium which has white flowers as some of you may know.
Finally, we are negotiating a solid rock hillside, driving downwards at 45 degrees to the slope; more on this later. At the bottom is a remote lake which would have been beautiful if it had any water in it. Actually there was a little water in the middle, but it was surrounded by acres of mud and dried out edges. The last two monsoons have failed to bring the rain they need, but it is still a glorious setting. The mudflats are being searched for lotus flower roots which are much prized as cooking ingredients.
We are camping in tents already set up by the lakeside and they are luxurious, with a 5m sq. sleeping section and, to the rear, a 5x2m 'bathroom' with running h&c water to western toilet, washbasin and shower!
Five of us walk up to a ruined fort perched on the top of a hillock overlooking the lake. We see that the whole valley has the shape of a huge crater, as if we are in an ancient volcanic crater with rocky sides, the lake at the bottom and a mound in the middle with the fort on top. This is a weird and wonderful place.
Dinner in the stone built, very old tile clad Dining Hall is superb. It is a help-yourself buffet with 6 containers of various Indian dishes kept hot over gas jets. Vegetable rice, cauliflower, egg plant/aubergine, mixed veg., a bean sauce and perfectly cooked joints of chicken. This is heaven. I passed on another spicy sauce though.
Now I am in bed writing this blog with the sound of night noises from the lake and surrounding green banks and rocky slopes; it is a cacophony of birds, insects, animals and snoring Australians in nearby tents. This is a great place to be.
All the best, John
We arrive at the station at 7am for 7.15 train that arrives at 11.40 due to fog. No comfy seats this time, we are in 'general' class, but crowdedness and discomfort are more than compensated by the group's interaction with local people who stare at us strange western folk. Vendors are selling spicy chic peas and peanuts. The peanut shells and other debris cover the floor, so there is a crackling sound as people walk by.
The scenery outside is varied, rocky desert in places, but also cultivated fields that must have required a huge amount of work to create and maintain in this landscape. There is the bright green of winter barley in its early stages, the yellow of oilseed rape/canola and the brown earth awaiting spring crops. All very ordered and tidy.
After 3 hours on the train, we alight at the tiny Bassi Station where two jeeps are waiting for us. One and half hours in these takes us along the narrowest and roughest of tracks and roads, through villages and cultivated countryside. Crops include opium which has white flowers as some of you may know.
Finally, we are negotiating a solid rock hillside, driving downwards at 45 degrees to the slope; more on this later. At the bottom is a remote lake which would have been beautiful if it had any water in it. Actually there was a little water in the middle, but it was surrounded by acres of mud and dried out edges. The last two monsoons have failed to bring the rain they need, but it is still a glorious setting. The mudflats are being searched for lotus flower roots which are much prized as cooking ingredients.
We are camping in tents already set up by the lakeside and they are luxurious, with a 5m sq. sleeping section and, to the rear, a 5x2m 'bathroom' with running h&c water to western toilet, washbasin and shower!
Five of us walk up to a ruined fort perched on the top of a hillock overlooking the lake. We see that the whole valley has the shape of a huge crater, as if we are in an ancient volcanic crater with rocky sides, the lake at the bottom and a mound in the middle with the fort on top. This is a weird and wonderful place.
Dinner in the stone built, very old tile clad Dining Hall is superb. It is a help-yourself buffet with 6 containers of various Indian dishes kept hot over gas jets. Vegetable rice, cauliflower, egg plant/aubergine, mixed veg., a bean sauce and perfectly cooked joints of chicken. This is heaven. I passed on another spicy sauce though.
Now I am in bed writing this blog with the sound of night noises from the lake and surrounding green banks and rocky slopes; it is a cacophony of birds, insects, animals and snoring Australians in nearby tents. This is a great place to be.
All the best, John
Thursday, January 14, 2010
Rajasthan 8 January 2010
Rajasthan 8 January 2010
First thing in the morning we are driven up to Ranthambore Fort, an impressive structure high up above the town. The steps rise steeply through stone walls and archways. The huge timber doors have spikes to discourage ramming by the elephants of attacking armies. This place has been designed to be impenetrable and has never been taken forcibly. The living quarters at the top are largely in ruins, but the bits that remain are fascinating.
Now we are driving to Bundi, seeing more of rural Rajasthan. Cattle, wild (looking) pigs, chickens, goats and local people in harmony. All of the women and some of the men are in traditional dress, colourful saris etc., I love these journeys through the countryside.
Bundi is known as the 'City of Wells', it nestles in a natural valley at the foot of a large rocky hill dominated by the town's Fort and Palace. Sadly, the Maharajah died yesterday and is being cremated today, so we cannot visit the Palace. However, our orientation walk is interesting, and we have an excellent meal in our hotel, The Ishwari Niwas (Gods House).
That's it for today, All the Best, john
First thing in the morning we are driven up to Ranthambore Fort, an impressive structure high up above the town. The steps rise steeply through stone walls and archways. The huge timber doors have spikes to discourage ramming by the elephants of attacking armies. This place has been designed to be impenetrable and has never been taken forcibly. The living quarters at the top are largely in ruins, but the bits that remain are fascinating.
Now we are driving to Bundi, seeing more of rural Rajasthan. Cattle, wild (looking) pigs, chickens, goats and local people in harmony. All of the women and some of the men are in traditional dress, colourful saris etc., I love these journeys through the countryside.
Bundi is known as the 'City of Wells', it nestles in a natural valley at the foot of a large rocky hill dominated by the town's Fort and Palace. Sadly, the Maharajah died yesterday and is being cremated today, so we cannot visit the Palace. However, our orientation walk is interesting, and we have an excellent meal in our hotel, The Ishwari Niwas (Gods House).
That's it for today, All the Best, john
Tuesday, January 12, 2010
Rajasthan 7 January 2010
Rajasthan 7 January 2010
Today we have a four and half hour drive through rural Rajasthan. We pass through a hundred small communities, sometimes only a few buildings around a courtyard, sometimes a village with some shops and stalls. We are regularly negotiating our way around cattle which roam freely and with no road sense. Much of the local transport of produce is by camel carts. The fields are well organised and very clean. This time of year we are seeing the yellow of Oilseed rape/Canola, or is it mustard? There is also winter sown barley and cultivated fields awaiting spring crops.
We arrive at Hotel Raj Palace in Ranthambore. The gardens are beautiful, and in glorious sunshine we enjoy a delightful lunch including banana lassi.
Then we are collected in an open-top dwuc (how do you spell this Anne?) type vehicle for The Tiger Safari. The track rises and falls through the thinly wooded reserve. We are in a valley with steeply rising hillsides and mountains in the distance. There are lots of deer, big brown ones called Sambar and dainty spotty ones called Chital. A beautiful blue-backed kingfisher is sitting on a wire over a dried up stream. Black and white monkeys with incredibly long tails throw bits of tree at us from branches above. When we stop for a break, more of these monkeys come right up to us, presumably hoping to be fed. They have no fear of humans, even when we are walking around. We don't see any tigers, but this is a beautiful place to visit.
In the evening there is folk dancing and singing back at the hotel, followed by an excellent meal in the hotel restaurant. I am quite pleased with myself so far, chosing indian dishes for most meals, all of which are spicy to some degree despite what the waiter says. (More than half of the group have had tummy trouble at some stage of their time in India, but so far I am 100% ok.)
A great day. All the Best, John
Monday, January 11, 2010
Rajasthan 6 january 2010
Rajasthan 6 January 2010
'Free' day in Jaipur so 3 of us visit the Albert Hall Museum so named following a visit to Jaipur by our own Prince Albert. Most of the other visitors are local families, and we all gaze in awe at stone sculptures from 4th century onwards, pottery, arms and armour, carpets, clay figures, jewelry, musical instruments and garments. There are also hundreds of miniature paintings depicting stories of the Gods. One is of 'Lovers' inconsolable separation being eased by application of sandalwood paste, sprinkling of water and waving of fan'. (the paste looks like peanut butter). Another is 'Water sports as a facet of amorous love'(this appears to be a man and a woman wrestling under-water).
Also in the museum is a 1st century mummy. Some of the cloth has fallen off her shroud and you can see her toes.
Next we have a guided tour around the 300 year old Jantar Mantar Observatory. Various structures tell the time, date, positions of the planets and stars, longest and shortest days, angle of the sun and astrological signs. Fascinating stuff.
Outside of the Observatory, we find a tiny shop selling t-shirts. I buy some for the children.
We meet the rest of the group at the famous LMB Restaurant. I try Lassi for the first time. It is a yogurt based drink which is delicious. I also enjoy a very Indian veggie dish in cashew gravy with buttery nan bread.
In the afternoon I do some more shopping; the shopkeepers and street traders are very persistent sellers here and you are continually fending people off as you walk through the bazaars. If you make eye contact or stop to look at something, they are on to you. You have to be very firm, and bargain hard if you are interested in something. I buy some great Indian shirts for Leon, Harry and Ruby.
That's it for today, All the Best, John
Friday, January 08, 2010
Rajasthan 5 january 2010
Rajasthan 5 January 2010
Breakfast at Fort Mad Hogarth in the Courtyard. We have a walk through the village below the Fort, meet children playing cricket using bricks to make stumps. This is truly rural Rajasthan. A child probably less than 2 years is staggering around a courtyard shoving the goat out of the way. His young mother is happy for us to take photos of him, then I realise she would like to have one of herself and she is delighted when I show her the result. We are invited into a house where ladies are smoothing coloured stones and making necklaces with them. I buy one each for Jo and Faye. Then, in another part of the village, a girl is sat outside a doorway making bangles and we see that inside the door is a tiny shop, filled with finished bangles. I buy 3 each for the girls. They are doing well today.
Now we have to leave Mad Hogarth and we are very sad.
On the way to Jaipur is The Amber Palace. There is a Fort and the Palace sitting precariously on the crest of a long steep-sided mountain. The walk up to the Palace is much needed exercise for us, but we pass elephants carrying other tourists less energetic than us. Our guide around the Palace is Mr Vicas Bhatachraya. He has been showing visitors around here since 1959 and explains brilliantly the history and purpose of the various buildings in this fascinating and beautiful place.
Jaipur itself is a busy town and after checking into the Diggi Palace Hotel and meeting the Maharajah who owns it, we have a quick orientation walk through bazaars and town gates.
Then to a nearby cinema and Hindi movie 'The Three idiots'. Only about one tenth of the dialogue is in English, but we follow the film reasonably well and enjoy it. It is a very professionally made and popular movie.
Then a meal and to bed after a very good but long day. All the best, John
Breakfast at Fort Mad Hogarth in the Courtyard. We have a walk through the village below the Fort, meet children playing cricket using bricks to make stumps. This is truly rural Rajasthan. A child probably less than 2 years is staggering around a courtyard shoving the goat out of the way. His young mother is happy for us to take photos of him, then I realise she would like to have one of herself and she is delighted when I show her the result. We are invited into a house where ladies are smoothing coloured stones and making necklaces with them. I buy one each for Jo and Faye. Then, in another part of the village, a girl is sat outside a doorway making bangles and we see that inside the door is a tiny shop, filled with finished bangles. I buy 3 each for the girls. They are doing well today.
Now we have to leave Mad Hogarth and we are very sad.
On the way to Jaipur is The Amber Palace. There is a Fort and the Palace sitting precariously on the crest of a long steep-sided mountain. The walk up to the Palace is much needed exercise for us, but we pass elephants carrying other tourists less energetic than us. Our guide around the Palace is Mr Vicas Bhatachraya. He has been showing visitors around here since 1959 and explains brilliantly the history and purpose of the various buildings in this fascinating and beautiful place.
Jaipur itself is a busy town and after checking into the Diggi Palace Hotel and meeting the Maharajah who owns it, we have a quick orientation walk through bazaars and town gates.
Then to a nearby cinema and Hindi movie 'The Three idiots'. Only about one tenth of the dialogue is in English, but we follow the film reasonably well and enjoy it. It is a very professionally made and popular movie.
Then a meal and to bed after a very good but long day. All the best, John
Thursday, January 07, 2010
Rajasthan 4 January 2010
Rajasthan 4 January 2010
Early morning tour of the Red fort in Agra - if anything even more impressive than Taj Mahal. Built centuries ago of red sandstone, it is really a fortified palace with crocodile infested moat and a second (dry) moat filled with wild and dangerous animals. The Palace itself on the top level in the centre is amazing, structurally intact but, of course, without the gold, jewels, carpets and drapes that adorned the walls and floors originally. The guided tour is enjoyable and interesting.
After the red Fort, we have a four hour public bus journey then a hairy 4x4 ride into the hinterland ending up at Fort Mad Hogarth. The 500 year old fort is situated on an elephant back shaped hill which rises in the middle of a plain stretching for many miles to the foothills of surrounding mountain ranges. You have to see it to believe it. Astounding. I don't know who Hogarth was but for generations it has been the family home of successive Maharajahs, currently Maharajah Thakur Shiv Pratop Singh. We meet the Maharajah and his young family, and he explains that some guestrooms in the fort are let out to visitors like ourselves to raise money that is being ploughed back into renovations. We have evening drinks and a group photo with the Maharajah on top of one of the turrets. A child in the village below is flying a kite that sways and flutters in the wind above us. The sun sets behind the distant mountains. Magical.
All the best, John
Early morning tour of the Red fort in Agra - if anything even more impressive than Taj Mahal. Built centuries ago of red sandstone, it is really a fortified palace with crocodile infested moat and a second (dry) moat filled with wild and dangerous animals. The Palace itself on the top level in the centre is amazing, structurally intact but, of course, without the gold, jewels, carpets and drapes that adorned the walls and floors originally. The guided tour is enjoyable and interesting.
After the red Fort, we have a four hour public bus journey then a hairy 4x4 ride into the hinterland ending up at Fort Mad Hogarth. The 500 year old fort is situated on an elephant back shaped hill which rises in the middle of a plain stretching for many miles to the foothills of surrounding mountain ranges. You have to see it to believe it. Astounding. I don't know who Hogarth was but for generations it has been the family home of successive Maharajahs, currently Maharajah Thakur Shiv Pratop Singh. We meet the Maharajah and his young family, and he explains that some guestrooms in the fort are let out to visitors like ourselves to raise money that is being ploughed back into renovations. We have evening drinks and a group photo with the Maharajah on top of one of the turrets. A child in the village below is flying a kite that sways and flutters in the wind above us. The sun sets behind the distant mountains. Magical.
All the best, John
Wednesday, January 06, 2010
Rajasthan 3 January 2009
Rajasthan 3 January 2009
Up at 5am, arrive Delhi Station in time for 6.30 train to Agra, train arrives 11.30 departs 11.40.
Although unimpressed, the group is in good spirits. The seats in the train are very comfortable and you can buy tea and snacks from vendors walking up and down the carriages. In Agra we go straight to hotel, check in, time only for toasted sandwich before we walk to the Taj Mahal.
Wow. It is Shah Jahan's monument to, and mausoleum for, his favourite wife Mumtaz Mahal. She died giving birth to their 14th child in 1631. Building started in December that year and took 20,000 workers 22 years to complete.
It is a majestic building, entirely symmetrical (except only for the Shahs tomb placed next to his wife's after he died), beautifully designed and constructed of white marble. The four pillars around the central mausoleum lean slightly outwards so that if they fall down they will topple away from it (in an earthquake). Surrounding structures in red sandstone are complementary and impressive. Beautiful parkland, fountains and ponds between and around the set of buildings complete this awe inspiring experience.
Agra was first made the capital of India in 1501 and subsequently alternated with Delhi as the Moghul capital. Now one of India's most industrialised cities, the pollution is turning the white marble grey. The government is making efforts to clean up the city, including the banning of additional pollution producing factories in the area and motor vehicles near the Taj Mahal.
The authorities are also supporting alternative non-polluting industries, and we are taken to visit one, a carpet factory. It is all manual, spinning and dying the merino wool or silk, producing patterns, weaving(mainly by women in their homes) and finally trimming, treating and washing. The end results are incredibly beautiful in ranges of sizes, colours and patterns. (ps you can buy them at specially low prices and have then DHL'd to your home! maybe I will one day, I have their card)
Next we eat but the spinach and mushroom meal I order is too spicy for me so I hoover up some bits and leftovers from kindly fellow tourists around me.
And so ends the day I visited the Taj Mahal. Awesome and totally worth the hassle of getting there.
All the best, John
Saturday, January 02, 2010
Rajasthan 2nd January 2010
Rajasthan 2nd January 2010
The group met up last night, 11 of us, Australian (including a honeymoon couple), British and Swiss. Anant our guide hails from central India.
This morning we take a very old and crowded bus through the hectic streets to Old Delhi where we alight near the Red Fort (which unfortunately is shrouded in fog). The bus journey is an exhilarating experience in itself, not to be missed when you visit this amazing city.
We walk to Jamamasjid, a Muslim temple built in honour of the second Mogul Emperor Sanjha in 1656. This impressive structure fills regularly with 20,000 worshippers who gather in a huge outside square yard.
Next we walk to Alla Kinari bazaar and a myriad of incredibly narrow back streets packed with tiny shops. One section is THE place to go in Delhi for wedding apparel, bride and groom. Then there are little alcove shops each with its speciality produce - nuts, fruit, vegetables, spices, dried milk. jewelry, cloths, garments and monkeys leaping around the higher levels using electricity cables as if they were in the jungle. As everywhere here, the streets are packed with people, carts, bikes etc. going about their business always in a hurry, hustling through the crowd as if their life depended on it. (maybe it does to some?)
Then we find ourselves in Chandni market Street, more speciality shops with trays of produce beautifully displayed for passing shoppers.
The whole area is a mix of mostly Muslim and Hindu people who seem to blend amicably here although shoppers apparently tend to favour their own kind.
Next we catch another (much newer) bus to a Sikh Temple. Here we take off our shoes and socks and the floor tile are freezing. After washing our feet in a stream of water then through little fountains, we enter a huge hall in which several hundred people are praying and paying their respects to the sound of loud chanting. This is a seriously religious place. ''Sikhs believe in one God, do not recognise the caste system and do not believe in idol worship, rituals or superstitions. The religion consists of practical living, service to humanity, tolerance and brotherly love to all. This can be achieved by anyone who earns an honest living and leads a normal life. Their hard working ethic has taken many Sikhs to positions of influence despite comprising less than 2% of the population.''
Next to the Temple, there is a large kitchen where food is being prepared by volunteers. It smells delicious and is provided free to anyone who enters the cavernous food hall. About 2,000 people a day. Unfortunately, Anant leads us away in the opposite direction.
Now we catch the Metro to Connaught Place where Anant guides us to an outside restaurant then leaves us to fend for ourselves. I have chicken biryani which is a bit spicy for me (I come from Devon) but I still enjoy it.
Then to Pahar Ganj, the main bazaar in Delhi, a long wide crowded street with tightly packed stalls either side and street sellers hustling tourists every inch of the way. A bit like running the gauntlet, this is a stimulating experience.
Lastly to Palika Bazaar, an underground circular shopping centre on two levels. Very hot and crowded with lots of apparently good quality (according to the vendors) clothing and electrical goods at bargain prices.
Now I am all shopped out. Back via the Metro to our hotel. 6.50 now, we meet at 7 for dinner. Bye. John
The group met up last night, 11 of us, Australian (including a honeymoon couple), British and Swiss. Anant our guide hails from central India.
This morning we take a very old and crowded bus through the hectic streets to Old Delhi where we alight near the Red Fort (which unfortunately is shrouded in fog). The bus journey is an exhilarating experience in itself, not to be missed when you visit this amazing city.
We walk to Jamamasjid, a Muslim temple built in honour of the second Mogul Emperor Sanjha in 1656. This impressive structure fills regularly with 20,000 worshippers who gather in a huge outside square yard.
Next we walk to Alla Kinari bazaar and a myriad of incredibly narrow back streets packed with tiny shops. One section is THE place to go in Delhi for wedding apparel, bride and groom. Then there are little alcove shops each with its speciality produce - nuts, fruit, vegetables, spices, dried milk. jewelry, cloths, garments and monkeys leaping around the higher levels using electricity cables as if they were in the jungle. As everywhere here, the streets are packed with people, carts, bikes etc. going about their business always in a hurry, hustling through the crowd as if their life depended on it. (maybe it does to some?)
Then we find ourselves in Chandni market Street, more speciality shops with trays of produce beautifully displayed for passing shoppers.
The whole area is a mix of mostly Muslim and Hindu people who seem to blend amicably here although shoppers apparently tend to favour their own kind.
Next we catch another (much newer) bus to a Sikh Temple. Here we take off our shoes and socks and the floor tile are freezing. After washing our feet in a stream of water then through little fountains, we enter a huge hall in which several hundred people are praying and paying their respects to the sound of loud chanting. This is a seriously religious place. ''Sikhs believe in one God, do not recognise the caste system and do not believe in idol worship, rituals or superstitions. The religion consists of practical living, service to humanity, tolerance and brotherly love to all. This can be achieved by anyone who earns an honest living and leads a normal life. Their hard working ethic has taken many Sikhs to positions of influence despite comprising less than 2% of the population.''
Next to the Temple, there is a large kitchen where food is being prepared by volunteers. It smells delicious and is provided free to anyone who enters the cavernous food hall. About 2,000 people a day. Unfortunately, Anant leads us away in the opposite direction.
Now we catch the Metro to Connaught Place where Anant guides us to an outside restaurant then leaves us to fend for ourselves. I have chicken biryani which is a bit spicy for me (I come from Devon) but I still enjoy it.
Then to Pahar Ganj, the main bazaar in Delhi, a long wide crowded street with tightly packed stalls either side and street sellers hustling tourists every inch of the way. A bit like running the gauntlet, this is a stimulating experience.
Lastly to Palika Bazaar, an underground circular shopping centre on two levels. Very hot and crowded with lots of apparently good quality (according to the vendors) clothing and electrical goods at bargain prices.
Now I am all shopped out. Back via the Metro to our hotel. 6.50 now, we meet at 7 for dinner. Bye. John
Thursday, December 31, 2009
Rajasthan 29.12.9 - 1.1.10
Rajasthan 29.12.9 - 1.1.10
Hello again all, yes now I am in India at the starting hotel in Delhi for a 2 week tour of Rajasthan.
I arrived in the early hours of Wed 30th local time (Delhi is five and half hours ahead of UK).
After a long lie-in, I spent the rest of the day walking around the nearby streets. The hotel is situated in a busy downtown area consisting of a series of parallel main streets, linked by many narrow lanes, all filled with small shops at ground level with restaurants, offices, apartments and more shops at higher levels. Thousands of shops and street stalls, hundreds of thousands of people, cars, tuk-tuks(pedal and motorised), motor bikes, bicycles, all battling for space and a way through the melee. It is chaos but mostly friendly chaos.
Not so friendly are the horns. Every motor vehicle has one and it is used unstintingly and aggressively. I think some of them have had amplifiers fitted. (bicycles of course have bells, sadly swamped by the horns and all the other noise of these bustling streets). All drivers are impatient, all pedestrians and other vehicles are impediments to their progress which is interrupted at their peril. Parking is anywhere and everywhere. Pedestrians walk mainly in the street because the pavements are blocked by shop displays and stalls. Electrifying chaos.
This evening I have my first genuinely Indian meal. My choice is restricted (I come from South Devon, my family didn't do 'spicy' in those days) but I enjoy chicken kebab and mutton somethingorother.
Thursday 31st I take metro into Connaught Place. Canned sardines have loads of space compared to these trains. It is a fast modern service at a ridiculously low price, about 15p. Once in the carriage, you cannot turn around or even move your feet. If you are too far away from anything to hold, you have to sway with the crowd as the train accelerates and decelerates. It does neither smoothly. An equivalent tuk-tuk journey cost about £2 but is rather draughty. A taxi would be maybe £5 but I haven't been that extravagant yet.
Connaught Place is a British built, huge circle of buildings, maybe a kilometre around, with a park in the middle. The buildings have been badly neglected but are undergoing renovation as one part of major structural works in preparation for the 2010 Commonwealth Games. As with the Olympics in Beijing and World Cup in South Africa, these events certainly stimulate governments to invest in their countries' infrastructures.
At ground level, there are smart shops, restaurants and fast food establishments. Much of the upper stories seems to be derelict. The whole area is a building site. Let's hope they succeed in transforming Connaught Place back into the beautiful and impressive place it could be.
It is New Year's Eve, the celebrations are beginning. Hundreds of armed army personnel gather in the park then spread out around Connaught Place. Police are everywhere. Mid-evening I catch the metro back to my hotel area.
After a very enjoyable biriahni in a nearby vegetarian restaurant serving South Indian food, I see in the new year amongst the local population. There is fireworks and much excitement. And now it is 2010. The tour starts at 6pm today, the 1st.
All the Best, John
Hello again all, yes now I am in India at the starting hotel in Delhi for a 2 week tour of Rajasthan.
I arrived in the early hours of Wed 30th local time (Delhi is five and half hours ahead of UK).
After a long lie-in, I spent the rest of the day walking around the nearby streets. The hotel is situated in a busy downtown area consisting of a series of parallel main streets, linked by many narrow lanes, all filled with small shops at ground level with restaurants, offices, apartments and more shops at higher levels. Thousands of shops and street stalls, hundreds of thousands of people, cars, tuk-tuks(pedal and motorised), motor bikes, bicycles, all battling for space and a way through the melee. It is chaos but mostly friendly chaos.
Not so friendly are the horns. Every motor vehicle has one and it is used unstintingly and aggressively. I think some of them have had amplifiers fitted. (bicycles of course have bells, sadly swamped by the horns and all the other noise of these bustling streets). All drivers are impatient, all pedestrians and other vehicles are impediments to their progress which is interrupted at their peril. Parking is anywhere and everywhere. Pedestrians walk mainly in the street because the pavements are blocked by shop displays and stalls. Electrifying chaos.
This evening I have my first genuinely Indian meal. My choice is restricted (I come from South Devon, my family didn't do 'spicy' in those days) but I enjoy chicken kebab and mutton somethingorother.
Thursday 31st I take metro into Connaught Place. Canned sardines have loads of space compared to these trains. It is a fast modern service at a ridiculously low price, about 15p. Once in the carriage, you cannot turn around or even move your feet. If you are too far away from anything to hold, you have to sway with the crowd as the train accelerates and decelerates. It does neither smoothly. An equivalent tuk-tuk journey cost about £2 but is rather draughty. A taxi would be maybe £5 but I haven't been that extravagant yet.
Connaught Place is a British built, huge circle of buildings, maybe a kilometre around, with a park in the middle. The buildings have been badly neglected but are undergoing renovation as one part of major structural works in preparation for the 2010 Commonwealth Games. As with the Olympics in Beijing and World Cup in South Africa, these events certainly stimulate governments to invest in their countries' infrastructures.
At ground level, there are smart shops, restaurants and fast food establishments. Much of the upper stories seems to be derelict. The whole area is a building site. Let's hope they succeed in transforming Connaught Place back into the beautiful and impressive place it could be.
It is New Year's Eve, the celebrations are beginning. Hundreds of armed army personnel gather in the park then spread out around Connaught Place. Police are everywhere. Mid-evening I catch the metro back to my hotel area.
After a very enjoyable biriahni in a nearby vegetarian restaurant serving South Indian food, I see in the new year amongst the local population. There is fireworks and much excitement. And now it is 2010. The tour starts at 6pm today, the 1st.
All the Best, John
Monday, December 07, 2009
South Africa Sun 6 & Mon 7 Dec '09
South Africa Sun 6 & Mon 7 Dec '09
Sun 6 day of rest, reading book.
Mon 7 start whole day tour at 8am, just me and driver/guide.
We drive for one and half hours westwards out of scrubby bush into the foothills of the Drakensburg Mountains, gloriously green with tall trees and fruit and nuts growing in the fields.
Scones with cream and jam at the Coach House then a guided tour of the nearby nougat factory. Everything manual including wrapping each individual nougat 'sweet'. Well worth visiting here for the free samples.
Then to Magoebaskloof and its tea plantation, but it has been compulsorily purchased by the Government and handed to the local Makguba Tribe. With no help or support, they have been unable to maintain it resulting in a tea jungle. A shame, but there is still the Pekoe Tea Garden which has fantastic views across the valley.
Next to Debege Water Falls, spectacular and dangerous, with several plaques commemorating youngsters killed after falling from the slippery rocks. These make a beautiful place sad.
Whilst driving up the side of a mountain through astonishingly beautiful forest, my guide tells me about elephants' incredible sense of smell. A group of men are lined up. As an elephant sniffs each one, he is told the mans name. The elephant turns his back to the men who then throw their hats into a pile. The elephant is told to find Fred's hat and give it to George. He does it correctly. Then Joe's hat to Jim. Etc and he gets it right every time. Then they throw George's hat in the pile. George is not one of the men sniffed by the elephant today, he was in a group sniffed 6 months ago. The elephant successfully picks out Georges hat. They are that good at remembering smells and their owner. It's a pity they are a bit big for checking bags at airports.
We visit Haenertsburg, a very pretty village.
Then Sunland Baobab Tree. It is over 6,ooo years old, huge, and has a pub inside the trunk. Incongruous and not to be missed when you visit South Africa.
We drive on, through Modjadje, a town with thousands of small dwellings spread over hundreds of acres. On to the Modjadje Nature Reserve, created mainly to preserve a forest of Cycads, Modjadje Palms some of which are 1000 years old. Their fruits look like large pineapples and are much loved by the hundreds of Vervet Monkeys populating the area. (These monkeys have the largest vocabulary of the monkey world, 36 different sounds used to communicate)
On the return drive we see Sable (3 sightings, close up) and Buffalo in the distance.
My thanks to Annelize for suggesting these places to visit. It has been a great day.
A long day, 11 hours and 420 kilometers. My last day. I fly out tomorrow, back in the UK Wednesday afternoon. Thanks for reading my ramblings, till the next trip, All the Best, John.
Sun 6 day of rest, reading book.
Mon 7 start whole day tour at 8am, just me and driver/guide.
We drive for one and half hours westwards out of scrubby bush into the foothills of the Drakensburg Mountains, gloriously green with tall trees and fruit and nuts growing in the fields.
Scones with cream and jam at the Coach House then a guided tour of the nearby nougat factory. Everything manual including wrapping each individual nougat 'sweet'. Well worth visiting here for the free samples.
Then to Magoebaskloof and its tea plantation, but it has been compulsorily purchased by the Government and handed to the local Makguba Tribe. With no help or support, they have been unable to maintain it resulting in a tea jungle. A shame, but there is still the Pekoe Tea Garden which has fantastic views across the valley.
Next to Debege Water Falls, spectacular and dangerous, with several plaques commemorating youngsters killed after falling from the slippery rocks. These make a beautiful place sad.
Whilst driving up the side of a mountain through astonishingly beautiful forest, my guide tells me about elephants' incredible sense of smell. A group of men are lined up. As an elephant sniffs each one, he is told the mans name. The elephant turns his back to the men who then throw their hats into a pile. The elephant is told to find Fred's hat and give it to George. He does it correctly. Then Joe's hat to Jim. Etc and he gets it right every time. Then they throw George's hat in the pile. George is not one of the men sniffed by the elephant today, he was in a group sniffed 6 months ago. The elephant successfully picks out Georges hat. They are that good at remembering smells and their owner. It's a pity they are a bit big for checking bags at airports.
We visit Haenertsburg, a very pretty village.
Then Sunland Baobab Tree. It is over 6,ooo years old, huge, and has a pub inside the trunk. Incongruous and not to be missed when you visit South Africa.
We drive on, through Modjadje, a town with thousands of small dwellings spread over hundreds of acres. On to the Modjadje Nature Reserve, created mainly to preserve a forest of Cycads, Modjadje Palms some of which are 1000 years old. Their fruits look like large pineapples and are much loved by the hundreds of Vervet Monkeys populating the area. (These monkeys have the largest vocabulary of the monkey world, 36 different sounds used to communicate)
On the return drive we see Sable (3 sightings, close up) and Buffalo in the distance.
My thanks to Annelize for suggesting these places to visit. It has been a great day.
A long day, 11 hours and 420 kilometers. My last day. I fly out tomorrow, back in the UK Wednesday afternoon. Thanks for reading my ramblings, till the next trip, All the Best, John.
Sunday, December 06, 2009
South Africa evening Sat 5 Dec '09
South Africa evening Sat 5 Dec '09
We start into the Park at 5pm, a Dutch couple and myself plus the driver-guide, it is still light. Huge vultures perched at the top of a dead tree, the tallest bull Giraffe you could wish to see (right next to the road), Matabele Hissing Ants marching across the road, Emerald Spotted Doves singing their oh-so-sad song, Guinea Fowl, Baboons, Zebras and Impala. All this before we stop for a snack in an ancient village, now preserved to show us how people lived here.
Now we have torches as it gets dark. We are looking for eyes staring back at us out of the blackness. We see a single pair of eyes. It is a hare, long ears and frozen in the glare of the torch. We are not allowed to catch it for dinner. Then a lone Stonebuck, smaller than Impala, very dainty. Next a Spottedwhatsit Bird, can't remember the middle bit, but very pretty. Then a Nightjar. All spotted by seeing their eyes in the torchlight.
Now we see an eye in the water, a pool formed by a passing stream. It is a crocodile we are assured by the guide. Next an awesome sight in the night, a herd of about 50 Impala, their bright eyes toward us as they amble through the nearby bush. Then, the star of the night for me, a Genet watching us from the bottom of a tree. This animal looks like a domestic cat, spotted with a white tip to its tail. In fact it is of the mongoose family and would be entirely unsuitable in the living room. Then another Giraffe and finally more Zebras. A great experience to see all these animals at night.
All the best, John
We start into the Park at 5pm, a Dutch couple and myself plus the driver-guide, it is still light. Huge vultures perched at the top of a dead tree, the tallest bull Giraffe you could wish to see (right next to the road), Matabele Hissing Ants marching across the road, Emerald Spotted Doves singing their oh-so-sad song, Guinea Fowl, Baboons, Zebras and Impala. All this before we stop for a snack in an ancient village, now preserved to show us how people lived here.
Now we have torches as it gets dark. We are looking for eyes staring back at us out of the blackness. We see a single pair of eyes. It is a hare, long ears and frozen in the glare of the torch. We are not allowed to catch it for dinner. Then a lone Stonebuck, smaller than Impala, very dainty. Next a Spottedwhatsit Bird, can't remember the middle bit, but very pretty. Then a Nightjar. All spotted by seeing their eyes in the torchlight.
Now we see an eye in the water, a pool formed by a passing stream. It is a crocodile we are assured by the guide. Next an awesome sight in the night, a herd of about 50 Impala, their bright eyes toward us as they amble through the nearby bush. Then, the star of the night for me, a Genet watching us from the bottom of a tree. This animal looks like a domestic cat, spotted with a white tip to its tail. In fact it is of the mongoose family and would be entirely unsuitable in the living room. Then another Giraffe and finally more Zebras. A great experience to see all these animals at night.
All the best, John
Saturday, December 05, 2009
South Africa am Sat 5 Dec '09
South africa am Sat 5 Dec '09
Up at 4am this morning for 4.45am start. Bushwalking!
Two South African tourists, me, and two guides drive into the middle of nowhere in the Kruger National Park. We get out and start walking, single file, no talking, both guides carry rifles.
The scrub is sparse and green due to the recent rains. Mostly Mopani bushes. Scattered about, usually in single plants, are some beautiful flowers. White, pink, yellow. purple, blue, mauve - striking colours sprouting out of the sandy soil. Community Spiders have nests in the bushes. One female with lots of males running around after her. They should check out the Shangaan system.
A Buffalo runs off through the bush, Impala watch us impassively, Weaver Birds fly up out of the shrub.
Then we spot a Chameleon, maybe 9 inches/200mm long. It is bright green, exactly the same colour as the surrounding leaves, and sitting on a branch. We pick it up and it puffs up in protest. I hope to email the photo later.
Then a huge male elephant, very close, aware of us. He is walking through the bush, We walk in parallel with him and get some great photos. Awe-inspiring.
More walking, apparently aimlessly, through the bush. Suddenly a guide spots a pair of giraffes peering at us over the trees and bushes. We stop to watch them and after a short face-off, they walk away. Good. now we can sit down and have our breakfast.
On the way back we encounter a bunch of zebras, about 8 including a foal with her mother. They are out in the clear close to a mound of rock. Delightful.
Lastly, a group of 6 giraffes, feeding nonchalantly and not at all bothered by us humans staring at them. They are fascinating to watch, ungainly but graceful at the same time.
10am back to Sunbird Lodge (my b&b) where a great morning continues with a second breakfast kept back for me by Samantha.
All the Best, John
Up at 4am this morning for 4.45am start. Bushwalking!
Two South African tourists, me, and two guides drive into the middle of nowhere in the Kruger National Park. We get out and start walking, single file, no talking, both guides carry rifles.
The scrub is sparse and green due to the recent rains. Mostly Mopani bushes. Scattered about, usually in single plants, are some beautiful flowers. White, pink, yellow. purple, blue, mauve - striking colours sprouting out of the sandy soil. Community Spiders have nests in the bushes. One female with lots of males running around after her. They should check out the Shangaan system.
A Buffalo runs off through the bush, Impala watch us impassively, Weaver Birds fly up out of the shrub.
Then we spot a Chameleon, maybe 9 inches/200mm long. It is bright green, exactly the same colour as the surrounding leaves, and sitting on a branch. We pick it up and it puffs up in protest. I hope to email the photo later.
Then a huge male elephant, very close, aware of us. He is walking through the bush, We walk in parallel with him and get some great photos. Awe-inspiring.
More walking, apparently aimlessly, through the bush. Suddenly a guide spots a pair of giraffes peering at us over the trees and bushes. We stop to watch them and after a short face-off, they walk away. Good. now we can sit down and have our breakfast.
On the way back we encounter a bunch of zebras, about 8 including a foal with her mother. They are out in the clear close to a mound of rock. Delightful.
Lastly, a group of 6 giraffes, feeding nonchalantly and not at all bothered by us humans staring at them. They are fascinating to watch, ungainly but graceful at the same time.
10am back to Sunbird Lodge (my b&b) where a great morning continues with a second breakfast kept back for me by Samantha.
All the Best, John
Friday, December 04, 2009
South Africa Fri 4 Dec '09
South Africa Fri 4 Dec '09
Today Ben meets me at 8am for 'cultural tour'. He drives (just me) 10k to Lulekani, a 36,000 strong township, built and mainly occupied by Shangaan people. The Shangaan are part of the Nguni people, others being the Zulu, Matabele and Swazi tribes.
Ben describes and drives me around the four distinct areas of the town:- the well-off, the middle and the poor areas, and the area occupied by refugees from the Mozambique wars of the 1980s. The first three have mostly block built 'Mandela' houses and kitchens, with electricity and a running water tap in the grounds of each family group. The 'well off ' have some very smart properties indeed, whereas the poor have less space and grow crops in their garden. The Mozambicans do not qualify for 'Mandela' houses, struggle to get jobs because there are not enough even for the SA nationals and are poorer than the poor.
We stop lots of times, loads of kids, all happy and loving the photos I take and show them.
Ben takes me to meet Mr Modaka, 87 and the head of his family: 7 children and 19 grandchildren. Here, the man is in charge and the woman does as she is told, as it should be. Men decide who they want to marry and pay the girls father in cows or money. The girl then leaves to join her husbands family home where her new relatives monitor her to make sure she can cook and clean to their satisfaction. After obtaining their approval, the girl and her husband can set up home in their own house. Motherinlaw has no influence but the girls brothers can be a force to recon with if the husband treats his wife badly. Hence it is wise to check on how many brothers a girl has, and how big they are, before taking her as his wife. A man can take more than one wife of course, depending on how many he can afford and how fit he is. All good stuff.
We talk for a long time with Mr Modaka and look around his house and kitchens. The old kitchen has an open fire and is used as an alternative to the modern one which uses expensive electricity. An insight into how real people live in this town.
Next Ben takes me to a training centre where Europeans mostly German students come to help and learn social skills. Here, in a courtyard, 4 warriors bang drums, act, dance and sing just for me. Great stuff. I join in with the drumming and dancing but mercifully am not expected to sing. I thoroughly enjoy this and hope to see these guys again when they visit the UK next year.
All the Best, John
Today Ben meets me at 8am for 'cultural tour'. He drives (just me) 10k to Lulekani, a 36,000 strong township, built and mainly occupied by Shangaan people. The Shangaan are part of the Nguni people, others being the Zulu, Matabele and Swazi tribes.
Ben describes and drives me around the four distinct areas of the town:- the well-off, the middle and the poor areas, and the area occupied by refugees from the Mozambique wars of the 1980s. The first three have mostly block built 'Mandela' houses and kitchens, with electricity and a running water tap in the grounds of each family group. The 'well off ' have some very smart properties indeed, whereas the poor have less space and grow crops in their garden. The Mozambicans do not qualify for 'Mandela' houses, struggle to get jobs because there are not enough even for the SA nationals and are poorer than the poor.
We stop lots of times, loads of kids, all happy and loving the photos I take and show them.
Ben takes me to meet Mr Modaka, 87 and the head of his family: 7 children and 19 grandchildren. Here, the man is in charge and the woman does as she is told, as it should be. Men decide who they want to marry and pay the girls father in cows or money. The girl then leaves to join her husbands family home where her new relatives monitor her to make sure she can cook and clean to their satisfaction. After obtaining their approval, the girl and her husband can set up home in their own house. Motherinlaw has no influence but the girls brothers can be a force to recon with if the husband treats his wife badly. Hence it is wise to check on how many brothers a girl has, and how big they are, before taking her as his wife. A man can take more than one wife of course, depending on how many he can afford and how fit he is. All good stuff.
We talk for a long time with Mr Modaka and look around his house and kitchens. The old kitchen has an open fire and is used as an alternative to the modern one which uses expensive electricity. An insight into how real people live in this town.
Next Ben takes me to a training centre where Europeans mostly German students come to help and learn social skills. Here, in a courtyard, 4 warriors bang drums, act, dance and sing just for me. Great stuff. I join in with the drumming and dancing but mercifully am not expected to sing. I thoroughly enjoy this and hope to see these guys again when they visit the UK next year.
All the Best, John
Thursday, December 03, 2009
South Africa Tues 1 - Thurs 3 Dec '09
South Africa Tues 1 - Thurs 3 Dec 09
Tuesday I fly from Durban to Phalaborwa via Jo'burg.
Phalaborwa is a small town in the NE of SA, very near an entrance to the middle of Kruger National Park. I am staying at Sunbird Lodge, owned and run by cousins of Jill. It has excellent rooms in beautiful gardens. Breakfast and evening meals are superb.
Wednesday, nothing organised, so walk into town, around the (quite large) shopping area then back for a swim in the Sunbird pool. No lines and can't see where bottom meets sides so swim into end wall and stubb my finger.
Thursday I am met outside Sunbird at 5.45am by a canvas roofed cattle truck driven by Ben for safari in Kruger park. Me plus 3 English girls.
The landscape is scrub and small trees, Ben tells us lots of interesting things, the girls are good company.
We see lots of impala, in small family groups, dainty animals but not particularly nervous or wary of us. Pretty creatures in their natural leafy surroundings.
A very strange looking red beetle marches along the road near where we are stopped. It obviously owns this part of the park.
A Black Crested Eagle is majestic, perched high in one of the taller but dead trees. Beautiful.
A Hornbill hops around the branches of a tree, hiding from us. It is surprisingly graceful when it fly's away.
Three Rangers, pushing their bicycles in the opposite direction, stop to talk to us. They are big guys, young, healthy and black, and have rifles strapped to their crossbars. The girls are thrilled.
Next we see some zebras, some distance away in the scrub. I first thought they were giraffes, and the girls did agree that they were quite tall for zebras.
And almost at the same time, we catch a glimpse of two elephants partly hidden by trees. After watching them for a while, we drive on and find a single male elephant standing very near the road in a small muddy pool. An imperious animal in its natural environment. He is sucking up muddy water and squirting himself all over. He has a big willy and the girls are thrilled again. I will try to email, to you all, one of my photos of this huge animal. We have several more sightings of elephants in 2s and 3s. We are very lucky to see so many.
Now, after a very late snack breakfast in a park lodge overlooking a wide river and beautiful landscape, we head back to Phalaborwa. A truck driver passing in the opposite direction stops to speak with Ben. He has seen a pair of lions near the road and we are headed towards them. Ben drives on and we gaze out at the bush expectantly. A car stops and they tell Ben that they have also seen the two lions. The girls are even more excited than when they saw the three Rangers and the elephants willy. We drive on further, then Ben slows to a crawl. Suddenly, one of the girls spots the lions. Ben stops in a perfect position for us to admire these beasts. They are magnificent animals. The female is partly hidden, but we have a fine view of the male, fully grown and resplendent in his big bushy mane. We stay for a long time, with Ben moving our truck slightly when the lions move for more shade under a tree. Fantastic, amazing, wonderful to see these animals in their natural habitat.
And then we're driving through the gates and out of the park. Another great day.
All the Best,
John
Tuesday I fly from Durban to Phalaborwa via Jo'burg.
Phalaborwa is a small town in the NE of SA, very near an entrance to the middle of Kruger National Park. I am staying at Sunbird Lodge, owned and run by cousins of Jill. It has excellent rooms in beautiful gardens. Breakfast and evening meals are superb.
Wednesday, nothing organised, so walk into town, around the (quite large) shopping area then back for a swim in the Sunbird pool. No lines and can't see where bottom meets sides so swim into end wall and stubb my finger.
Thursday I am met outside Sunbird at 5.45am by a canvas roofed cattle truck driven by Ben for safari in Kruger park. Me plus 3 English girls.
The landscape is scrub and small trees, Ben tells us lots of interesting things, the girls are good company.
We see lots of impala, in small family groups, dainty animals but not particularly nervous or wary of us. Pretty creatures in their natural leafy surroundings.
A very strange looking red beetle marches along the road near where we are stopped. It obviously owns this part of the park.
A Black Crested Eagle is majestic, perched high in one of the taller but dead trees. Beautiful.
A Hornbill hops around the branches of a tree, hiding from us. It is surprisingly graceful when it fly's away.
Three Rangers, pushing their bicycles in the opposite direction, stop to talk to us. They are big guys, young, healthy and black, and have rifles strapped to their crossbars. The girls are thrilled.
Next we see some zebras, some distance away in the scrub. I first thought they were giraffes, and the girls did agree that they were quite tall for zebras.
And almost at the same time, we catch a glimpse of two elephants partly hidden by trees. After watching them for a while, we drive on and find a single male elephant standing very near the road in a small muddy pool. An imperious animal in its natural environment. He is sucking up muddy water and squirting himself all over. He has a big willy and the girls are thrilled again. I will try to email, to you all, one of my photos of this huge animal. We have several more sightings of elephants in 2s and 3s. We are very lucky to see so many.
Now, after a very late snack breakfast in a park lodge overlooking a wide river and beautiful landscape, we head back to Phalaborwa. A truck driver passing in the opposite direction stops to speak with Ben. He has seen a pair of lions near the road and we are headed towards them. Ben drives on and we gaze out at the bush expectantly. A car stops and they tell Ben that they have also seen the two lions. The girls are even more excited than when they saw the three Rangers and the elephants willy. We drive on further, then Ben slows to a crawl. Suddenly, one of the girls spots the lions. Ben stops in a perfect position for us to admire these beasts. They are magnificent animals. The female is partly hidden, but we have a fine view of the male, fully grown and resplendent in his big bushy mane. We stay for a long time, with Ben moving our truck slightly when the lions move for more shade under a tree. Fantastic, amazing, wonderful to see these animals in their natural habitat.
And then we're driving through the gates and out of the park. Another great day.
All the Best,
John
Monday, November 30, 2009
South Africa Thurs26 - Mon30 Nov '09
South Africa Thurs26 - Mon30 Nov '09
Still here in Umhlanga just north of Durban. Having a relatively quiet time, incl. another one more day on the beach. One notable exception is an invite by the couple who own my accommodation to a live performance in the Barnyard Theatre which is a part of a huge Mall nearby (Gateway Mall, the largest in the southern hemisphere). The husband has a separate business and it is his firms Christmas 'do'. So we are all sitting around the table having food and drinks and waiting for the performance to begin and we chat and guess what.....they are all accountants. I can't escape. The performance, a sort of rock musical with plenty of comedy was brilliant. First Class.
Another day some friends took me to an open market. It was a good one and I bought t-shirts for Harry, Leon and Ruby.
Now I am waiting for my taxi to take me to airport for flights via Joburg to Phalaborwa.
All the Best to everyone, John
Still here in Umhlanga just north of Durban. Having a relatively quiet time, incl. another one more day on the beach. One notable exception is an invite by the couple who own my accommodation to a live performance in the Barnyard Theatre which is a part of a huge Mall nearby (Gateway Mall, the largest in the southern hemisphere). The husband has a separate business and it is his firms Christmas 'do'. So we are all sitting around the table having food and drinks and waiting for the performance to begin and we chat and guess what.....they are all accountants. I can't escape. The performance, a sort of rock musical with plenty of comedy was brilliant. First Class.
Another day some friends took me to an open market. It was a good one and I bought t-shirts for Harry, Leon and Ruby.
Now I am waiting for my taxi to take me to airport for flights via Joburg to Phalaborwa.
All the Best to everyone, John
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