Rajasthan 29.12.9 - 1.1.10
Hello again all, yes now I am in India at the starting hotel in Delhi for a 2 week tour of Rajasthan.
I arrived in the early hours of Wed 30th local time (Delhi is five and half hours ahead of UK).
After a long lie-in, I spent the rest of the day walking around the nearby streets. The hotel is situated in a busy downtown area consisting of a series of parallel main streets, linked by many narrow lanes, all filled with small shops at ground level with restaurants, offices, apartments and more shops at higher levels. Thousands of shops and street stalls, hundreds of thousands of people, cars, tuk-tuks(pedal and motorised), motor bikes, bicycles, all battling for space and a way through the melee. It is chaos but mostly friendly chaos.
Not so friendly are the horns. Every motor vehicle has one and it is used unstintingly and aggressively. I think some of them have had amplifiers fitted. (bicycles of course have bells, sadly swamped by the horns and all the other noise of these bustling streets). All drivers are impatient, all pedestrians and other vehicles are impediments to their progress which is interrupted at their peril. Parking is anywhere and everywhere. Pedestrians walk mainly in the street because the pavements are blocked by shop displays and stalls. Electrifying chaos.
This evening I have my first genuinely Indian meal. My choice is restricted (I come from South Devon, my family didn't do 'spicy' in those days) but I enjoy chicken kebab and mutton somethingorother.
Thursday 31st I take metro into Connaught Place. Canned sardines have loads of space compared to these trains. It is a fast modern service at a ridiculously low price, about 15p. Once in the carriage, you cannot turn around or even move your feet. If you are too far away from anything to hold, you have to sway with the crowd as the train accelerates and decelerates. It does neither smoothly. An equivalent tuk-tuk journey cost about £2 but is rather draughty. A taxi would be maybe £5 but I haven't been that extravagant yet.
Connaught Place is a British built, huge circle of buildings, maybe a kilometre around, with a park in the middle. The buildings have been badly neglected but are undergoing renovation as one part of major structural works in preparation for the 2010 Commonwealth Games. As with the Olympics in Beijing and World Cup in South Africa, these events certainly stimulate governments to invest in their countries' infrastructures.
At ground level, there are smart shops, restaurants and fast food establishments. Much of the upper stories seems to be derelict. The whole area is a building site. Let's hope they succeed in transforming Connaught Place back into the beautiful and impressive place it could be.
It is New Year's Eve, the celebrations are beginning. Hundreds of armed army personnel gather in the park then spread out around Connaught Place. Police are everywhere. Mid-evening I catch the metro back to my hotel area.
After a very enjoyable biriahni in a nearby vegetarian restaurant serving South Indian food, I see in the new year amongst the local population. There is fireworks and much excitement. And now it is 2010. The tour starts at 6pm today, the 1st.
All the Best, John
Thursday, December 31, 2009
Monday, December 07, 2009
South Africa Sun 6 & Mon 7 Dec '09
South Africa Sun 6 & Mon 7 Dec '09
Sun 6 day of rest, reading book.
Mon 7 start whole day tour at 8am, just me and driver/guide.
We drive for one and half hours westwards out of scrubby bush into the foothills of the Drakensburg Mountains, gloriously green with tall trees and fruit and nuts growing in the fields.
Scones with cream and jam at the Coach House then a guided tour of the nearby nougat factory. Everything manual including wrapping each individual nougat 'sweet'. Well worth visiting here for the free samples.
Then to Magoebaskloof and its tea plantation, but it has been compulsorily purchased by the Government and handed to the local Makguba Tribe. With no help or support, they have been unable to maintain it resulting in a tea jungle. A shame, but there is still the Pekoe Tea Garden which has fantastic views across the valley.
Next to Debege Water Falls, spectacular and dangerous, with several plaques commemorating youngsters killed after falling from the slippery rocks. These make a beautiful place sad.
Whilst driving up the side of a mountain through astonishingly beautiful forest, my guide tells me about elephants' incredible sense of smell. A group of men are lined up. As an elephant sniffs each one, he is told the mans name. The elephant turns his back to the men who then throw their hats into a pile. The elephant is told to find Fred's hat and give it to George. He does it correctly. Then Joe's hat to Jim. Etc and he gets it right every time. Then they throw George's hat in the pile. George is not one of the men sniffed by the elephant today, he was in a group sniffed 6 months ago. The elephant successfully picks out Georges hat. They are that good at remembering smells and their owner. It's a pity they are a bit big for checking bags at airports.
We visit Haenertsburg, a very pretty village.
Then Sunland Baobab Tree. It is over 6,ooo years old, huge, and has a pub inside the trunk. Incongruous and not to be missed when you visit South Africa.
We drive on, through Modjadje, a town with thousands of small dwellings spread over hundreds of acres. On to the Modjadje Nature Reserve, created mainly to preserve a forest of Cycads, Modjadje Palms some of which are 1000 years old. Their fruits look like large pineapples and are much loved by the hundreds of Vervet Monkeys populating the area. (These monkeys have the largest vocabulary of the monkey world, 36 different sounds used to communicate)
On the return drive we see Sable (3 sightings, close up) and Buffalo in the distance.
My thanks to Annelize for suggesting these places to visit. It has been a great day.
A long day, 11 hours and 420 kilometers. My last day. I fly out tomorrow, back in the UK Wednesday afternoon. Thanks for reading my ramblings, till the next trip, All the Best, John.
Sun 6 day of rest, reading book.
Mon 7 start whole day tour at 8am, just me and driver/guide.
We drive for one and half hours westwards out of scrubby bush into the foothills of the Drakensburg Mountains, gloriously green with tall trees and fruit and nuts growing in the fields.
Scones with cream and jam at the Coach House then a guided tour of the nearby nougat factory. Everything manual including wrapping each individual nougat 'sweet'. Well worth visiting here for the free samples.
Then to Magoebaskloof and its tea plantation, but it has been compulsorily purchased by the Government and handed to the local Makguba Tribe. With no help or support, they have been unable to maintain it resulting in a tea jungle. A shame, but there is still the Pekoe Tea Garden which has fantastic views across the valley.
Next to Debege Water Falls, spectacular and dangerous, with several plaques commemorating youngsters killed after falling from the slippery rocks. These make a beautiful place sad.
Whilst driving up the side of a mountain through astonishingly beautiful forest, my guide tells me about elephants' incredible sense of smell. A group of men are lined up. As an elephant sniffs each one, he is told the mans name. The elephant turns his back to the men who then throw their hats into a pile. The elephant is told to find Fred's hat and give it to George. He does it correctly. Then Joe's hat to Jim. Etc and he gets it right every time. Then they throw George's hat in the pile. George is not one of the men sniffed by the elephant today, he was in a group sniffed 6 months ago. The elephant successfully picks out Georges hat. They are that good at remembering smells and their owner. It's a pity they are a bit big for checking bags at airports.
We visit Haenertsburg, a very pretty village.
Then Sunland Baobab Tree. It is over 6,ooo years old, huge, and has a pub inside the trunk. Incongruous and not to be missed when you visit South Africa.
We drive on, through Modjadje, a town with thousands of small dwellings spread over hundreds of acres. On to the Modjadje Nature Reserve, created mainly to preserve a forest of Cycads, Modjadje Palms some of which are 1000 years old. Their fruits look like large pineapples and are much loved by the hundreds of Vervet Monkeys populating the area. (These monkeys have the largest vocabulary of the monkey world, 36 different sounds used to communicate)
On the return drive we see Sable (3 sightings, close up) and Buffalo in the distance.
My thanks to Annelize for suggesting these places to visit. It has been a great day.
A long day, 11 hours and 420 kilometers. My last day. I fly out tomorrow, back in the UK Wednesday afternoon. Thanks for reading my ramblings, till the next trip, All the Best, John.
Sunday, December 06, 2009
South Africa evening Sat 5 Dec '09
South Africa evening Sat 5 Dec '09
We start into the Park at 5pm, a Dutch couple and myself plus the driver-guide, it is still light. Huge vultures perched at the top of a dead tree, the tallest bull Giraffe you could wish to see (right next to the road), Matabele Hissing Ants marching across the road, Emerald Spotted Doves singing their oh-so-sad song, Guinea Fowl, Baboons, Zebras and Impala. All this before we stop for a snack in an ancient village, now preserved to show us how people lived here.
Now we have torches as it gets dark. We are looking for eyes staring back at us out of the blackness. We see a single pair of eyes. It is a hare, long ears and frozen in the glare of the torch. We are not allowed to catch it for dinner. Then a lone Stonebuck, smaller than Impala, very dainty. Next a Spottedwhatsit Bird, can't remember the middle bit, but very pretty. Then a Nightjar. All spotted by seeing their eyes in the torchlight.
Now we see an eye in the water, a pool formed by a passing stream. It is a crocodile we are assured by the guide. Next an awesome sight in the night, a herd of about 50 Impala, their bright eyes toward us as they amble through the nearby bush. Then, the star of the night for me, a Genet watching us from the bottom of a tree. This animal looks like a domestic cat, spotted with a white tip to its tail. In fact it is of the mongoose family and would be entirely unsuitable in the living room. Then another Giraffe and finally more Zebras. A great experience to see all these animals at night.
All the best, John
We start into the Park at 5pm, a Dutch couple and myself plus the driver-guide, it is still light. Huge vultures perched at the top of a dead tree, the tallest bull Giraffe you could wish to see (right next to the road), Matabele Hissing Ants marching across the road, Emerald Spotted Doves singing their oh-so-sad song, Guinea Fowl, Baboons, Zebras and Impala. All this before we stop for a snack in an ancient village, now preserved to show us how people lived here.
Now we have torches as it gets dark. We are looking for eyes staring back at us out of the blackness. We see a single pair of eyes. It is a hare, long ears and frozen in the glare of the torch. We are not allowed to catch it for dinner. Then a lone Stonebuck, smaller than Impala, very dainty. Next a Spottedwhatsit Bird, can't remember the middle bit, but very pretty. Then a Nightjar. All spotted by seeing their eyes in the torchlight.
Now we see an eye in the water, a pool formed by a passing stream. It is a crocodile we are assured by the guide. Next an awesome sight in the night, a herd of about 50 Impala, their bright eyes toward us as they amble through the nearby bush. Then, the star of the night for me, a Genet watching us from the bottom of a tree. This animal looks like a domestic cat, spotted with a white tip to its tail. In fact it is of the mongoose family and would be entirely unsuitable in the living room. Then another Giraffe and finally more Zebras. A great experience to see all these animals at night.
All the best, John
Saturday, December 05, 2009
South Africa am Sat 5 Dec '09
South africa am Sat 5 Dec '09
Up at 4am this morning for 4.45am start. Bushwalking!
Two South African tourists, me, and two guides drive into the middle of nowhere in the Kruger National Park. We get out and start walking, single file, no talking, both guides carry rifles.
The scrub is sparse and green due to the recent rains. Mostly Mopani bushes. Scattered about, usually in single plants, are some beautiful flowers. White, pink, yellow. purple, blue, mauve - striking colours sprouting out of the sandy soil. Community Spiders have nests in the bushes. One female with lots of males running around after her. They should check out the Shangaan system.
A Buffalo runs off through the bush, Impala watch us impassively, Weaver Birds fly up out of the shrub.
Then we spot a Chameleon, maybe 9 inches/200mm long. It is bright green, exactly the same colour as the surrounding leaves, and sitting on a branch. We pick it up and it puffs up in protest. I hope to email the photo later.
Then a huge male elephant, very close, aware of us. He is walking through the bush, We walk in parallel with him and get some great photos. Awe-inspiring.
More walking, apparently aimlessly, through the bush. Suddenly a guide spots a pair of giraffes peering at us over the trees and bushes. We stop to watch them and after a short face-off, they walk away. Good. now we can sit down and have our breakfast.
On the way back we encounter a bunch of zebras, about 8 including a foal with her mother. They are out in the clear close to a mound of rock. Delightful.
Lastly, a group of 6 giraffes, feeding nonchalantly and not at all bothered by us humans staring at them. They are fascinating to watch, ungainly but graceful at the same time.
10am back to Sunbird Lodge (my b&b) where a great morning continues with a second breakfast kept back for me by Samantha.
All the Best, John
Up at 4am this morning for 4.45am start. Bushwalking!
Two South African tourists, me, and two guides drive into the middle of nowhere in the Kruger National Park. We get out and start walking, single file, no talking, both guides carry rifles.
The scrub is sparse and green due to the recent rains. Mostly Mopani bushes. Scattered about, usually in single plants, are some beautiful flowers. White, pink, yellow. purple, blue, mauve - striking colours sprouting out of the sandy soil. Community Spiders have nests in the bushes. One female with lots of males running around after her. They should check out the Shangaan system.
A Buffalo runs off through the bush, Impala watch us impassively, Weaver Birds fly up out of the shrub.
Then we spot a Chameleon, maybe 9 inches/200mm long. It is bright green, exactly the same colour as the surrounding leaves, and sitting on a branch. We pick it up and it puffs up in protest. I hope to email the photo later.
Then a huge male elephant, very close, aware of us. He is walking through the bush, We walk in parallel with him and get some great photos. Awe-inspiring.
More walking, apparently aimlessly, through the bush. Suddenly a guide spots a pair of giraffes peering at us over the trees and bushes. We stop to watch them and after a short face-off, they walk away. Good. now we can sit down and have our breakfast.
On the way back we encounter a bunch of zebras, about 8 including a foal with her mother. They are out in the clear close to a mound of rock. Delightful.
Lastly, a group of 6 giraffes, feeding nonchalantly and not at all bothered by us humans staring at them. They are fascinating to watch, ungainly but graceful at the same time.
10am back to Sunbird Lodge (my b&b) where a great morning continues with a second breakfast kept back for me by Samantha.
All the Best, John
Friday, December 04, 2009
South Africa Fri 4 Dec '09
South Africa Fri 4 Dec '09
Today Ben meets me at 8am for 'cultural tour'. He drives (just me) 10k to Lulekani, a 36,000 strong township, built and mainly occupied by Shangaan people. The Shangaan are part of the Nguni people, others being the Zulu, Matabele and Swazi tribes.
Ben describes and drives me around the four distinct areas of the town:- the well-off, the middle and the poor areas, and the area occupied by refugees from the Mozambique wars of the 1980s. The first three have mostly block built 'Mandela' houses and kitchens, with electricity and a running water tap in the grounds of each family group. The 'well off ' have some very smart properties indeed, whereas the poor have less space and grow crops in their garden. The Mozambicans do not qualify for 'Mandela' houses, struggle to get jobs because there are not enough even for the SA nationals and are poorer than the poor.
We stop lots of times, loads of kids, all happy and loving the photos I take and show them.
Ben takes me to meet Mr Modaka, 87 and the head of his family: 7 children and 19 grandchildren. Here, the man is in charge and the woman does as she is told, as it should be. Men decide who they want to marry and pay the girls father in cows or money. The girl then leaves to join her husbands family home where her new relatives monitor her to make sure she can cook and clean to their satisfaction. After obtaining their approval, the girl and her husband can set up home in their own house. Motherinlaw has no influence but the girls brothers can be a force to recon with if the husband treats his wife badly. Hence it is wise to check on how many brothers a girl has, and how big they are, before taking her as his wife. A man can take more than one wife of course, depending on how many he can afford and how fit he is. All good stuff.
We talk for a long time with Mr Modaka and look around his house and kitchens. The old kitchen has an open fire and is used as an alternative to the modern one which uses expensive electricity. An insight into how real people live in this town.
Next Ben takes me to a training centre where Europeans mostly German students come to help and learn social skills. Here, in a courtyard, 4 warriors bang drums, act, dance and sing just for me. Great stuff. I join in with the drumming and dancing but mercifully am not expected to sing. I thoroughly enjoy this and hope to see these guys again when they visit the UK next year.
All the Best, John
Today Ben meets me at 8am for 'cultural tour'. He drives (just me) 10k to Lulekani, a 36,000 strong township, built and mainly occupied by Shangaan people. The Shangaan are part of the Nguni people, others being the Zulu, Matabele and Swazi tribes.
Ben describes and drives me around the four distinct areas of the town:- the well-off, the middle and the poor areas, and the area occupied by refugees from the Mozambique wars of the 1980s. The first three have mostly block built 'Mandela' houses and kitchens, with electricity and a running water tap in the grounds of each family group. The 'well off ' have some very smart properties indeed, whereas the poor have less space and grow crops in their garden. The Mozambicans do not qualify for 'Mandela' houses, struggle to get jobs because there are not enough even for the SA nationals and are poorer than the poor.
We stop lots of times, loads of kids, all happy and loving the photos I take and show them.
Ben takes me to meet Mr Modaka, 87 and the head of his family: 7 children and 19 grandchildren. Here, the man is in charge and the woman does as she is told, as it should be. Men decide who they want to marry and pay the girls father in cows or money. The girl then leaves to join her husbands family home where her new relatives monitor her to make sure she can cook and clean to their satisfaction. After obtaining their approval, the girl and her husband can set up home in their own house. Motherinlaw has no influence but the girls brothers can be a force to recon with if the husband treats his wife badly. Hence it is wise to check on how many brothers a girl has, and how big they are, before taking her as his wife. A man can take more than one wife of course, depending on how many he can afford and how fit he is. All good stuff.
We talk for a long time with Mr Modaka and look around his house and kitchens. The old kitchen has an open fire and is used as an alternative to the modern one which uses expensive electricity. An insight into how real people live in this town.
Next Ben takes me to a training centre where Europeans mostly German students come to help and learn social skills. Here, in a courtyard, 4 warriors bang drums, act, dance and sing just for me. Great stuff. I join in with the drumming and dancing but mercifully am not expected to sing. I thoroughly enjoy this and hope to see these guys again when they visit the UK next year.
All the Best, John
Thursday, December 03, 2009
South Africa Tues 1 - Thurs 3 Dec '09
South Africa Tues 1 - Thurs 3 Dec 09
Tuesday I fly from Durban to Phalaborwa via Jo'burg.
Phalaborwa is a small town in the NE of SA, very near an entrance to the middle of Kruger National Park. I am staying at Sunbird Lodge, owned and run by cousins of Jill. It has excellent rooms in beautiful gardens. Breakfast and evening meals are superb.
Wednesday, nothing organised, so walk into town, around the (quite large) shopping area then back for a swim in the Sunbird pool. No lines and can't see where bottom meets sides so swim into end wall and stubb my finger.
Thursday I am met outside Sunbird at 5.45am by a canvas roofed cattle truck driven by Ben for safari in Kruger park. Me plus 3 English girls.
The landscape is scrub and small trees, Ben tells us lots of interesting things, the girls are good company.
We see lots of impala, in small family groups, dainty animals but not particularly nervous or wary of us. Pretty creatures in their natural leafy surroundings.
A very strange looking red beetle marches along the road near where we are stopped. It obviously owns this part of the park.
A Black Crested Eagle is majestic, perched high in one of the taller but dead trees. Beautiful.
A Hornbill hops around the branches of a tree, hiding from us. It is surprisingly graceful when it fly's away.
Three Rangers, pushing their bicycles in the opposite direction, stop to talk to us. They are big guys, young, healthy and black, and have rifles strapped to their crossbars. The girls are thrilled.
Next we see some zebras, some distance away in the scrub. I first thought they were giraffes, and the girls did agree that they were quite tall for zebras.
And almost at the same time, we catch a glimpse of two elephants partly hidden by trees. After watching them for a while, we drive on and find a single male elephant standing very near the road in a small muddy pool. An imperious animal in its natural environment. He is sucking up muddy water and squirting himself all over. He has a big willy and the girls are thrilled again. I will try to email, to you all, one of my photos of this huge animal. We have several more sightings of elephants in 2s and 3s. We are very lucky to see so many.
Now, after a very late snack breakfast in a park lodge overlooking a wide river and beautiful landscape, we head back to Phalaborwa. A truck driver passing in the opposite direction stops to speak with Ben. He has seen a pair of lions near the road and we are headed towards them. Ben drives on and we gaze out at the bush expectantly. A car stops and they tell Ben that they have also seen the two lions. The girls are even more excited than when they saw the three Rangers and the elephants willy. We drive on further, then Ben slows to a crawl. Suddenly, one of the girls spots the lions. Ben stops in a perfect position for us to admire these beasts. They are magnificent animals. The female is partly hidden, but we have a fine view of the male, fully grown and resplendent in his big bushy mane. We stay for a long time, with Ben moving our truck slightly when the lions move for more shade under a tree. Fantastic, amazing, wonderful to see these animals in their natural habitat.
And then we're driving through the gates and out of the park. Another great day.
All the Best,
John
Tuesday I fly from Durban to Phalaborwa via Jo'burg.
Phalaborwa is a small town in the NE of SA, very near an entrance to the middle of Kruger National Park. I am staying at Sunbird Lodge, owned and run by cousins of Jill. It has excellent rooms in beautiful gardens. Breakfast and evening meals are superb.
Wednesday, nothing organised, so walk into town, around the (quite large) shopping area then back for a swim in the Sunbird pool. No lines and can't see where bottom meets sides so swim into end wall and stubb my finger.
Thursday I am met outside Sunbird at 5.45am by a canvas roofed cattle truck driven by Ben for safari in Kruger park. Me plus 3 English girls.
The landscape is scrub and small trees, Ben tells us lots of interesting things, the girls are good company.
We see lots of impala, in small family groups, dainty animals but not particularly nervous or wary of us. Pretty creatures in their natural leafy surroundings.
A very strange looking red beetle marches along the road near where we are stopped. It obviously owns this part of the park.
A Black Crested Eagle is majestic, perched high in one of the taller but dead trees. Beautiful.
A Hornbill hops around the branches of a tree, hiding from us. It is surprisingly graceful when it fly's away.
Three Rangers, pushing their bicycles in the opposite direction, stop to talk to us. They are big guys, young, healthy and black, and have rifles strapped to their crossbars. The girls are thrilled.
Next we see some zebras, some distance away in the scrub. I first thought they were giraffes, and the girls did agree that they were quite tall for zebras.
And almost at the same time, we catch a glimpse of two elephants partly hidden by trees. After watching them for a while, we drive on and find a single male elephant standing very near the road in a small muddy pool. An imperious animal in its natural environment. He is sucking up muddy water and squirting himself all over. He has a big willy and the girls are thrilled again. I will try to email, to you all, one of my photos of this huge animal. We have several more sightings of elephants in 2s and 3s. We are very lucky to see so many.
Now, after a very late snack breakfast in a park lodge overlooking a wide river and beautiful landscape, we head back to Phalaborwa. A truck driver passing in the opposite direction stops to speak with Ben. He has seen a pair of lions near the road and we are headed towards them. Ben drives on and we gaze out at the bush expectantly. A car stops and they tell Ben that they have also seen the two lions. The girls are even more excited than when they saw the three Rangers and the elephants willy. We drive on further, then Ben slows to a crawl. Suddenly, one of the girls spots the lions. Ben stops in a perfect position for us to admire these beasts. They are magnificent animals. The female is partly hidden, but we have a fine view of the male, fully grown and resplendent in his big bushy mane. We stay for a long time, with Ben moving our truck slightly when the lions move for more shade under a tree. Fantastic, amazing, wonderful to see these animals in their natural habitat.
And then we're driving through the gates and out of the park. Another great day.
All the Best,
John
Monday, November 30, 2009
South Africa Thurs26 - Mon30 Nov '09
South Africa Thurs26 - Mon30 Nov '09
Still here in Umhlanga just north of Durban. Having a relatively quiet time, incl. another one more day on the beach. One notable exception is an invite by the couple who own my accommodation to a live performance in the Barnyard Theatre which is a part of a huge Mall nearby (Gateway Mall, the largest in the southern hemisphere). The husband has a separate business and it is his firms Christmas 'do'. So we are all sitting around the table having food and drinks and waiting for the performance to begin and we chat and guess what.....they are all accountants. I can't escape. The performance, a sort of rock musical with plenty of comedy was brilliant. First Class.
Another day some friends took me to an open market. It was a good one and I bought t-shirts for Harry, Leon and Ruby.
Now I am waiting for my taxi to take me to airport for flights via Joburg to Phalaborwa.
All the Best to everyone, John
Still here in Umhlanga just north of Durban. Having a relatively quiet time, incl. another one more day on the beach. One notable exception is an invite by the couple who own my accommodation to a live performance in the Barnyard Theatre which is a part of a huge Mall nearby (Gateway Mall, the largest in the southern hemisphere). The husband has a separate business and it is his firms Christmas 'do'. So we are all sitting around the table having food and drinks and waiting for the performance to begin and we chat and guess what.....they are all accountants. I can't escape. The performance, a sort of rock musical with plenty of comedy was brilliant. First Class.
Another day some friends took me to an open market. It was a good one and I bought t-shirts for Harry, Leon and Ruby.
Now I am waiting for my taxi to take me to airport for flights via Joburg to Phalaborwa.
All the Best to everyone, John
Wednesday, November 25, 2009
South Africa Wed 18 - Wed 25 Nov '09
South Africa Wed 18 - Wed 25 Nov '09
This is the first 8 days of my 'relaxing on the beach' fortnight in between the two 'active' sections of this trip to SA. Not entirely going to plan due to a storm on the second day and high winds or clouds most other days. HOWEVER, the 2 days on the beach are much appreciated, plus lots of walking most of the other days. And catching up with blogs and emails of course (in 'Seaside Cottages' with wifi).
Today, Wed 25, I am off on a day trip with Greg Garson, proprietor of Garsons Expeditions. He takes me to a reed bed on the edge of Umhlanga to explain that such beds were the dominating feature of these coastal areas. They have been largely replaced by smart residential properties. This is a very upmarket area.
Then we drive inland and into Inanda Township, a rather desparate looking collection of thousands of shacks with a filthy stream running through the middle. We are here to visit...guess what.....the house that Mhatma Ghandi lived in. He was working here in South Africa for 26 years, taking a job here following his legal training in England. The house and gardens have been preserved as a historical site, but its location within the township deters most tour operators. But not Greg. The house contains a large collection of photos of Ghandi from a young man and charts the story of his life. Fascinating and a must if you ever find yourself near Durban.
Then to Ohlange Institute, a technical school founded in the 19C, in the grounds of which is the house lived in by John L Dobe, founding father of the ANC. Dobe had meeetings with Ghandi here, and Nelson Mandela chose this place to vote in national elections. Another amazing historical site little visited.
Next to Inanda Seminary for Girls. Clean and tidy buildings set in beautiful grounds and gardens, we could be in Buckinghamshire. Pupil/teacher ratio between 17 and 20 to one. The 300 girls, 13-18, are black, polite and well spoken, and come from all backgrounds, gaining their place on merit and ability. Founded early 20C, the current Patron in Chief is Nelson Mandela. Excellent.
Now we drive to the Valley of 1000 Hills. First to a tourist attraction, a set of old Zulu dwellings that look like upside-down birds nests, a demonstration of cooking by a lady (men don't cook) and a meeting with a Tribal Chief. Then a live performance depicting a Zulu romance, engagement and lots of enthusiastic Zulu dancing. Great fun, very entertaining.
Lastly, Greg drives us into and through a valley. For mile after mile on the hills around us are small groups of Zulu dwellings, not upside-down birds nests but small block built single storey structures with electricity and outside chemical loos. They look clean and tidy, there is little litter. The stream flowing through the valley is sparkling clean. Greg tells me that each group houses an extended family, often one man and his many wives and children. We see only a small fraction of the valley. This is not a township. It is a huge community of Zulus whose ancesters came here many centuries ago. It is their home, and there is a well established hierarchy of Chiefs who administer and control the area, resorting to the South African legal system only in the most serious cases. The adults catch buses to work, the children (have to) go to school. Few white people come here, but we get happy smiles and waves from all the locals we pass, adults and children. Another positive side of South Africa.
All the Best, John
This is the first 8 days of my 'relaxing on the beach' fortnight in between the two 'active' sections of this trip to SA. Not entirely going to plan due to a storm on the second day and high winds or clouds most other days. HOWEVER, the 2 days on the beach are much appreciated, plus lots of walking most of the other days. And catching up with blogs and emails of course (in 'Seaside Cottages' with wifi).
Today, Wed 25, I am off on a day trip with Greg Garson, proprietor of Garsons Expeditions. He takes me to a reed bed on the edge of Umhlanga to explain that such beds were the dominating feature of these coastal areas. They have been largely replaced by smart residential properties. This is a very upmarket area.
Then we drive inland and into Inanda Township, a rather desparate looking collection of thousands of shacks with a filthy stream running through the middle. We are here to visit...guess what.....the house that Mhatma Ghandi lived in. He was working here in South Africa for 26 years, taking a job here following his legal training in England. The house and gardens have been preserved as a historical site, but its location within the township deters most tour operators. But not Greg. The house contains a large collection of photos of Ghandi from a young man and charts the story of his life. Fascinating and a must if you ever find yourself near Durban.
Then to Ohlange Institute, a technical school founded in the 19C, in the grounds of which is the house lived in by John L Dobe, founding father of the ANC. Dobe had meeetings with Ghandi here, and Nelson Mandela chose this place to vote in national elections. Another amazing historical site little visited.
Next to Inanda Seminary for Girls. Clean and tidy buildings set in beautiful grounds and gardens, we could be in Buckinghamshire. Pupil/teacher ratio between 17 and 20 to one. The 300 girls, 13-18, are black, polite and well spoken, and come from all backgrounds, gaining their place on merit and ability. Founded early 20C, the current Patron in Chief is Nelson Mandela. Excellent.
Now we drive to the Valley of 1000 Hills. First to a tourist attraction, a set of old Zulu dwellings that look like upside-down birds nests, a demonstration of cooking by a lady (men don't cook) and a meeting with a Tribal Chief. Then a live performance depicting a Zulu romance, engagement and lots of enthusiastic Zulu dancing. Great fun, very entertaining.
Lastly, Greg drives us into and through a valley. For mile after mile on the hills around us are small groups of Zulu dwellings, not upside-down birds nests but small block built single storey structures with electricity and outside chemical loos. They look clean and tidy, there is little litter. The stream flowing through the valley is sparkling clean. Greg tells me that each group houses an extended family, often one man and his many wives and children. We see only a small fraction of the valley. This is not a township. It is a huge community of Zulus whose ancesters came here many centuries ago. It is their home, and there is a well established hierarchy of Chiefs who administer and control the area, resorting to the South African legal system only in the most serious cases. The adults catch buses to work, the children (have to) go to school. Few white people come here, but we get happy smiles and waves from all the locals we pass, adults and children. Another positive side of South Africa.
All the Best, John
Monday, November 23, 2009
South Africa Tues 17 Nov '09
South Africa Tues 17 Nov '09
This is the last day of the group tour with 'Explore' and it is a free day, ie nothing organised. Most of the group fly back to the UK later today.
You may have noticed a major omission in out itinerary so far- it was scheduled 3 times and postponed each time due to windy or cloudy weather. So the free day is our last chance to go to the top of Table Mountain. Four of us are there at 8am and YES the cable car is open. So up we go. It is a very steep climb. A long way up. Normally the car rotates as it rises. This one is broken so it didn't rotate. I hope it isn't broken in any other way. It travels at 10 metres per second, it takes nearly 15 minutes to get to the top. 1200 metres we travel up the cable (3/4 mile?) at an angle that looks about 75 degrees to me. Almost vertical. We get to the top safely.
The views are glorious. The top of Table Mountain is very high indeed, we can see the docks, waterfront, high-rise buildings and roads far below us. All tiny. And the new stadium for World Cup 2010. Tiny in the distance, almost directly below us.
We walk on the path around the top. More panoramic views of the Cape coastline that we have travelled over the last 10 days. This was definitely worth the effort on our 4th attempt. A great place, magical.
Then the cable car down. Equally steep and long of course. This time the car IS rotating. More spectacular views, 360 degrees of them. Fantastic.
Then taxi to hotel, collect bag, taxi to airport, fly to Durban, taxi to Umhlanga just north of Durban, Seaside Cottages, bed.
All the Best, John
This is the last day of the group tour with 'Explore' and it is a free day, ie nothing organised. Most of the group fly back to the UK later today.
You may have noticed a major omission in out itinerary so far- it was scheduled 3 times and postponed each time due to windy or cloudy weather. So the free day is our last chance to go to the top of Table Mountain. Four of us are there at 8am and YES the cable car is open. So up we go. It is a very steep climb. A long way up. Normally the car rotates as it rises. This one is broken so it didn't rotate. I hope it isn't broken in any other way. It travels at 10 metres per second, it takes nearly 15 minutes to get to the top. 1200 metres we travel up the cable (3/4 mile?) at an angle that looks about 75 degrees to me. Almost vertical. We get to the top safely.
The views are glorious. The top of Table Mountain is very high indeed, we can see the docks, waterfront, high-rise buildings and roads far below us. All tiny. And the new stadium for World Cup 2010. Tiny in the distance, almost directly below us.
We walk on the path around the top. More panoramic views of the Cape coastline that we have travelled over the last 10 days. This was definitely worth the effort on our 4th attempt. A great place, magical.
Then the cable car down. Equally steep and long of course. This time the car IS rotating. More spectacular views, 360 degrees of them. Fantastic.
Then taxi to hotel, collect bag, taxi to airport, fly to Durban, taxi to Umhlanga just north of Durban, Seaside Cottages, bed.
All the Best, John
Sunday, November 22, 2009
South Africa Mon 16 Nov '09
South Africa Mon 16 Nov '09
We drive to Cape Agulhas, the most southerly point of Africa. This is officially where the Atlantic and Indian oceans meet. Not a friendly meeting. The sea is wild and rough, and it's very windy. Sadly, many ships have sunk here, as they have all along this coast. But we are tourists so we have a group photo around the 'Most Southerly Point' stone then retreat to the lighthouse cafe for tea.
Next to Hermanus (Chris didn't tell who Herm was, or the significance of this part of his body)
This is a small resort with a promenade right up against the rocky coastline. Just metres from the promenade, whales are surfacing and diving, tails in the air. They are Southern Right whales, slow and majestic. They come here every year for mating and calving. Slow motion emotion, watching these great animals.
Then more coastal road - Clarence Drive around the other side of false Bay - another top 10 scenic route. It is spectacular, cliffs rising up on one side, a raging sea crashing over shoreline rocks on the other. There are Great White sharks out there. Not a place to go out on your pedalo.
As we approach Cape Town, there is a never ending township, mostly to the left of us. It is 13 kilometres long. There are between 800,000 and 1.5 million people in townships around Cape Town. Still much to do in South Africa, housing, crime, education, economic policy - it's all inter-linked. It looks as though there has been some progress, and it's only 15 years since apartheid, so I guess it's much too early for history to judge these ANC governments. A mammoth task so Good Luck to them, I say.
We have our last supper as a group, and say farewell to each other and to Chris and Mike. They have done a great job. Tomorrow is our last day, a free (ie free of Chris!) day. All the Best, John
We drive to Cape Agulhas, the most southerly point of Africa. This is officially where the Atlantic and Indian oceans meet. Not a friendly meeting. The sea is wild and rough, and it's very windy. Sadly, many ships have sunk here, as they have all along this coast. But we are tourists so we have a group photo around the 'Most Southerly Point' stone then retreat to the lighthouse cafe for tea.
Next to Hermanus (Chris didn't tell who Herm was, or the significance of this part of his body)
This is a small resort with a promenade right up against the rocky coastline. Just metres from the promenade, whales are surfacing and diving, tails in the air. They are Southern Right whales, slow and majestic. They come here every year for mating and calving. Slow motion emotion, watching these great animals.
Then more coastal road - Clarence Drive around the other side of false Bay - another top 10 scenic route. It is spectacular, cliffs rising up on one side, a raging sea crashing over shoreline rocks on the other. There are Great White sharks out there. Not a place to go out on your pedalo.
As we approach Cape Town, there is a never ending township, mostly to the left of us. It is 13 kilometres long. There are between 800,000 and 1.5 million people in townships around Cape Town. Still much to do in South Africa, housing, crime, education, economic policy - it's all inter-linked. It looks as though there has been some progress, and it's only 15 years since apartheid, so I guess it's much too early for history to judge these ANC governments. A mammoth task so Good Luck to them, I say.
We have our last supper as a group, and say farewell to each other and to Chris and Mike. They have done a great job. Tomorrow is our last day, a free (ie free of Chris!) day. All the Best, John
Saturday, November 21, 2009
South Africa Sun 15 Nov '09
South Africa Sun 15 Nov '09
This morning we follow the Garden Route through Mossel to the farming region of Swellendam, a lovely old town full of Cape Dutch buildings. The crops have been cut in the fields, there are buzzards sitting on fence posts. Very relaxing. So relaxing, I fall asleep in the bus. Again.
We hike a trail in the nearby Marloth Nature Reserve. More beautiful woodland.
After checking into our Guest House, we're off to visit a nearby township. Townships in South Africa are where poor black and coloured people live. We have passed other townships on our travels, some of them huge, covering hundreds of acres. They are mostly tightly knit shacks, separated only by dirt roads. On the bright side, there is street lighting and running water available from a standpipe. Also, Nelson Mandela's government started a low cost home building programme that has improved conditions for a growing proportion of these people.
We are met by Meisie, a member of the Xhosa tribe and an elected representative of this particular township. Meisie is a great grandmother in her early 50s, and has two of her grandsons living with her. Meisie speaks good english and has organised a welcoming dance by a dozen or so children. She tells us about the different sections of the township and their names. The section Meisie lives in is all shacks, and she takes us on a tour. She tells us that if someone makes the mistake of breaking the law, they are fined 200 rand. If they make the mistake again, they are fined 500 rand. If they make the mistake a third time, they are locked up because it is no longer a mistake.
We see few adults, many are working in the towns, but a steadily increasing number od children join our group. They love to pose for photos and see themselves on the screen. I take many photos! The children are excited and exhuberant but impecably behaved. Meisie is in charge.
Meisie shows us their beer making process, very basic in cans, but I taste the result and it's not too bad.
Then to Meisies house, which is clean and smart and looks very comfortable. It is a shack but she has obviously been able to collect some nice things over the years.
By now there must be 100 or more children tagging along. Us tourists are instructed by Meisie to sit on chairs positioned around the edge of her garden (hers was the only garden I saw!). The children sit on the grass, tightly packed together. There are some boards laid in the middle of the garden. Then we were treated to a series of dance performances, to a beating drum, by groups of girls then boys, all dressed in simple costumes that had been specially made. Entrancing. I get some brilliant video on the camera. Then, all too soon (although it is getting a bit cold for all of us), the bus comes to collect us. This is one of the occasions that will stick in my memory long after this tour.
All the Best,
John
This morning we follow the Garden Route through Mossel to the farming region of Swellendam, a lovely old town full of Cape Dutch buildings. The crops have been cut in the fields, there are buzzards sitting on fence posts. Very relaxing. So relaxing, I fall asleep in the bus. Again.
We hike a trail in the nearby Marloth Nature Reserve. More beautiful woodland.
After checking into our Guest House, we're off to visit a nearby township. Townships in South Africa are where poor black and coloured people live. We have passed other townships on our travels, some of them huge, covering hundreds of acres. They are mostly tightly knit shacks, separated only by dirt roads. On the bright side, there is street lighting and running water available from a standpipe. Also, Nelson Mandela's government started a low cost home building programme that has improved conditions for a growing proportion of these people.
We are met by Meisie, a member of the Xhosa tribe and an elected representative of this particular township. Meisie is a great grandmother in her early 50s, and has two of her grandsons living with her. Meisie speaks good english and has organised a welcoming dance by a dozen or so children. She tells us about the different sections of the township and their names. The section Meisie lives in is all shacks, and she takes us on a tour. She tells us that if someone makes the mistake of breaking the law, they are fined 200 rand. If they make the mistake again, they are fined 500 rand. If they make the mistake a third time, they are locked up because it is no longer a mistake.
We see few adults, many are working in the towns, but a steadily increasing number od children join our group. They love to pose for photos and see themselves on the screen. I take many photos! The children are excited and exhuberant but impecably behaved. Meisie is in charge.
Meisie shows us their beer making process, very basic in cans, but I taste the result and it's not too bad.
Then to Meisies house, which is clean and smart and looks very comfortable. It is a shack but she has obviously been able to collect some nice things over the years.
By now there must be 100 or more children tagging along. Us tourists are instructed by Meisie to sit on chairs positioned around the edge of her garden (hers was the only garden I saw!). The children sit on the grass, tightly packed together. There are some boards laid in the middle of the garden. Then we were treated to a series of dance performances, to a beating drum, by groups of girls then boys, all dressed in simple costumes that had been specially made. Entrancing. I get some brilliant video on the camera. Then, all too soon (although it is getting a bit cold for all of us), the bus comes to collect us. This is one of the occasions that will stick in my memory long after this tour.
All the Best,
John
Friday, November 20, 2009
South Africa Sat 14 Nov '09
South Africa Sat 14 Nov '09
We are driving to the Tsitsikamma National Park. On the way we stop at Bloukrans where a bridge over a ravine hosts the 'worlds highest bungy jump' - 216 metres. After due consideration, I decided not to do it. As did all but one of our group, Lisa, and she changed her mind when it emerged that she could not fit in both the bunge and the canopy tour. Lisa and 3 others did the canopy tour, this requiring one to dangle from a wire strung 30 metres above the forest floor and glide between 10 platforms fixed half way up giant trees. Not for me but much enjoyed by the 4 that did it.
Tsitsikamma is a marine and forest park, 8ok long within the Garden Route. There is time for two walks, the first through coastal woodland, over a slightly scary suspension bridge at the mouth of Storms River. Then up, up, up to a platform, positioned precariously on the top of a masssive cliff, overlooking the angry sea along the coast for many miles in both directions. Spectacular (once you pluck up the courage to go near the edge).
The second walk is through dense woodland slightly further from the sea, hearing but not seeing the waves crashing onto the rocky shore. 'Explore' describe this area as 'spellbinding'. It is.
All the Best,
John
We are driving to the Tsitsikamma National Park. On the way we stop at Bloukrans where a bridge over a ravine hosts the 'worlds highest bungy jump' - 216 metres. After due consideration, I decided not to do it. As did all but one of our group, Lisa, and she changed her mind when it emerged that she could not fit in both the bunge and the canopy tour. Lisa and 3 others did the canopy tour, this requiring one to dangle from a wire strung 30 metres above the forest floor and glide between 10 platforms fixed half way up giant trees. Not for me but much enjoyed by the 4 that did it.
Tsitsikamma is a marine and forest park, 8ok long within the Garden Route. There is time for two walks, the first through coastal woodland, over a slightly scary suspension bridge at the mouth of Storms River. Then up, up, up to a platform, positioned precariously on the top of a masssive cliff, overlooking the angry sea along the coast for many miles in both directions. Spectacular (once you pluck up the courage to go near the edge).
The second walk is through dense woodland slightly further from the sea, hearing but not seeing the waves crashing onto the rocky shore. 'Explore' describe this area as 'spellbinding'. It is.
All the Best,
John
Monday, November 16, 2009
South Africa Fri 13 Nov '09
South Africa Fri 13 Nov '09
Walking normally again today. So now I have ridden ostrich in Africa, elephant in Northern Thailand, camel in Dubai and dartmoor pony in Devon. What next I wonder.
We leave Oudtshoorn today and drive through the dramatic Outeniqua Pass through the Outeniqua Mountains. These mountains form a formidable barrier between the interior and the lush coastal strip known as the Garden Route. Exceptional scenery.
We arrive at Knysna with its harbour, dockyard and lagoon. (Knysna was the home of the reputed illegitimate son of King George III)
Here we embark on a coastal walk that turns out to be a highlight of the tour. 2 hours or more around the beautiful Robberg Peninsula. Incredible rock formations, some with pebbles embedded in limestone rocks 50 metres above the beach from times when the sea level was up there. A very strange sight. The sea is rough, we see seals and dolphins, plus for those with binoculars, a Southern Right Whale in the distance. The beach we cross is remote and beautiful with massive sand dunes and the sea crashing on rocks all around. This is a glorious piece of coastline. I get some great photos.
The Lagoona Guest House here is very comfortable and the evening meal is excellent. There is an initiation ceremony for those of us who have not travelled with Explore before. The ceremony and the alcoholic concoction we have to drink are pure inventions of Chris, our guide. It is the beginning of a merry evening.
Chris by the way is larger than life, is a double of a good friend of mine Martyn Turner of Chesham Prep., and is doing a superb job keeping this 18 strong disparate group of ours in order. Fortunately, we also have Mike the driver who in turn keeps Chris in order. There is nobody to keep Mike in order.
All the Best,
John
Walking normally again today. So now I have ridden ostrich in Africa, elephant in Northern Thailand, camel in Dubai and dartmoor pony in Devon. What next I wonder.
We leave Oudtshoorn today and drive through the dramatic Outeniqua Pass through the Outeniqua Mountains. These mountains form a formidable barrier between the interior and the lush coastal strip known as the Garden Route. Exceptional scenery.
We arrive at Knysna with its harbour, dockyard and lagoon. (Knysna was the home of the reputed illegitimate son of King George III)
Here we embark on a coastal walk that turns out to be a highlight of the tour. 2 hours or more around the beautiful Robberg Peninsula. Incredible rock formations, some with pebbles embedded in limestone rocks 50 metres above the beach from times when the sea level was up there. A very strange sight. The sea is rough, we see seals and dolphins, plus for those with binoculars, a Southern Right Whale in the distance. The beach we cross is remote and beautiful with massive sand dunes and the sea crashing on rocks all around. This is a glorious piece of coastline. I get some great photos.
The Lagoona Guest House here is very comfortable and the evening meal is excellent. There is an initiation ceremony for those of us who have not travelled with Explore before. The ceremony and the alcoholic concoction we have to drink are pure inventions of Chris, our guide. It is the beginning of a merry evening.
Chris by the way is larger than life, is a double of a good friend of mine Martyn Turner of Chesham Prep., and is doing a superb job keeping this 18 strong disparate group of ours in order. Fortunately, we also have Mike the driver who in turn keeps Chris in order. There is nobody to keep Mike in order.
All the Best,
John
Saturday, November 14, 2009
South Africa Thurs 12 Nov '09
South Africa Thurs 12 Nov '09
Busy day today, travelling to various places through this beautiful and breathtaking landscape.
First to Cango Caves, huge caverns millions of years old with limestone formations created by millennia of dripping water. The guide sings African chants in the caves -eerie.
Then the Cango Ostrich Farm, meet Bella who is near the entrance - the only friendly ostrich in South Africa (normally they are aggressive and unsociable but Bella is.....well, Bella)
Next we are taken through the farm and see lots of ostriches. Then to the riding paddock.
So who wants to ride an ostrich they ask. I will say I. Big mistake. They pick the wildest one in the paddock and put a hood over its head which gratifyingly calms it down. No saddle, just a cloth over its back, I have to climb up onto it, cross my legs under its chest and hold on to its wings. So far so good but then they take its hood off and let it go. It charged off like a demented lunatic, with me on its back, running at a hell of a speed, twisting and turning, I nearly brought up the bacon, eggs and saute potatoes I had for breakfast. I hung on quite well for a while, then started to slide to one side a bit until slowly but gracefully, I fell off. I was the only one in the group daft enough to ride one of these things (although Mike the driver did too) so got a round of applause as I picked myself up and dusted myself off.
Next a picnic lunch by a spectacular 100ft. waterfall at Meirings Poort. Swam in the 9m deep pool - it was a bit fresh.
Then to Cango Wildlife Park - crocodiles, meercats, turtles, storks, otter, wart hogs, vultures and stuff, but mainly big cats. White lions, Bengal tigers, white tigers and their main conservation subjects, cheetahs. Gorgeous animals, I get to hug one, a young adult, and have photos taken by the keeper. It growled at me (the cheetah) but then started purring. A great experience.
Lastly - the evening meal was Potjie, pronounced poykey. A big pot is filled, meat (lamb) at the bottom, then potatoes then veg, it is never stirred - it was a super meal and we could go back for seconds.
Another great day, All the best, John
Busy day today, travelling to various places through this beautiful and breathtaking landscape.
First to Cango Caves, huge caverns millions of years old with limestone formations created by millennia of dripping water. The guide sings African chants in the caves -eerie.
Then the Cango Ostrich Farm, meet Bella who is near the entrance - the only friendly ostrich in South Africa (normally they are aggressive and unsociable but Bella is.....well, Bella)
Next we are taken through the farm and see lots of ostriches. Then to the riding paddock.
So who wants to ride an ostrich they ask. I will say I. Big mistake. They pick the wildest one in the paddock and put a hood over its head which gratifyingly calms it down. No saddle, just a cloth over its back, I have to climb up onto it, cross my legs under its chest and hold on to its wings. So far so good but then they take its hood off and let it go. It charged off like a demented lunatic, with me on its back, running at a hell of a speed, twisting and turning, I nearly brought up the bacon, eggs and saute potatoes I had for breakfast. I hung on quite well for a while, then started to slide to one side a bit until slowly but gracefully, I fell off. I was the only one in the group daft enough to ride one of these things (although Mike the driver did too) so got a round of applause as I picked myself up and dusted myself off.
Next a picnic lunch by a spectacular 100ft. waterfall at Meirings Poort. Swam in the 9m deep pool - it was a bit fresh.
Then to Cango Wildlife Park - crocodiles, meercats, turtles, storks, otter, wart hogs, vultures and stuff, but mainly big cats. White lions, Bengal tigers, white tigers and their main conservation subjects, cheetahs. Gorgeous animals, I get to hug one, a young adult, and have photos taken by the keeper. It growled at me (the cheetah) but then started purring. A great experience.
Lastly - the evening meal was Potjie, pronounced poykey. A big pot is filled, meat (lamb) at the bottom, then potatoes then veg, it is never stirred - it was a super meal and we could go back for seconds.
Another great day, All the best, John
Friday, November 13, 2009
South Africa Wed 11 Nov '09
South Africa Wed 11 Nov '09
Much excitement, we see a Spotted Eagle Owl in the tree outside the Guest House. At least two of our group are keen bird enthusiasts. This is a big owl.
We leave this area for long drive in the bus through spectacular mountain scenery to Oudtshoorn. On the way, we have a break at Karoo Botanical Gardens near Worcester, including a short walk up the hillside. More great scenery and millions of ants moving fluffy seedpods into their nest.
The next stop at Rooiberg Winery was just for coffee and scrumptious pecan pie and ice cream.
Then on to Barrydale in Little Karoo Valley for lunch - toasted bacon and banana sandwich - it was good, you should try it. Let me know if you do.
More travelling takes us to De Poort Guest House near Oudtshoorn in the centre of South Africa's traditional ostrich farming industry.
The accomodation is a 2 storey black, cream and brick set of buildings with roof structures made with poles bolted together and covered with thatch. Real character outside and in (but not sure about the dead zebra draped over the internal balcony bannister)
Took a one hour hike on my own up a nearby hill, along the brow and down the other side. A beautiful place. Cactii and short bushes all shapes and sizes, multi-coloured rocks and stones.
Evening meal is ostrich steak, perfectly cooked by Rita the hostess. (her husband is called Leon so they called their daughter Leorita)
I love this place.
Got to go now. All the Best,
John
Much excitement, we see a Spotted Eagle Owl in the tree outside the Guest House. At least two of our group are keen bird enthusiasts. This is a big owl.
We leave this area for long drive in the bus through spectacular mountain scenery to Oudtshoorn. On the way, we have a break at Karoo Botanical Gardens near Worcester, including a short walk up the hillside. More great scenery and millions of ants moving fluffy seedpods into their nest.
The next stop at Rooiberg Winery was just for coffee and scrumptious pecan pie and ice cream.
Then on to Barrydale in Little Karoo Valley for lunch - toasted bacon and banana sandwich - it was good, you should try it. Let me know if you do.
More travelling takes us to De Poort Guest House near Oudtshoorn in the centre of South Africa's traditional ostrich farming industry.
The accomodation is a 2 storey black, cream and brick set of buildings with roof structures made with poles bolted together and covered with thatch. Real character outside and in (but not sure about the dead zebra draped over the internal balcony bannister)
Took a one hour hike on my own up a nearby hill, along the brow and down the other side. A beautiful place. Cactii and short bushes all shapes and sizes, multi-coloured rocks and stones.
Evening meal is ostrich steak, perfectly cooked by Rita the hostess. (her husband is called Leon so they called their daughter Leorita)
I love this place.
Got to go now. All the Best,
John
Tuesday, November 10, 2009
South Africa Tuesday 10 Nov '09
South Africa Tuesday 10 Nov '09
Stellenbosch
Breakfast at a civilised 7.30, off at 8.30 on a 3 hour hike on the Helderberg Mountains behind Stellenbosch. Through woodland and scrub up the side of the nearest mountain, not quite to the top (a bit steep there). Fantastic views including Table Mountain in the distance. Weather holding out, cool dry and breezy, just right except for some high cloud. Very enjoyable.
Then to the town of Stellenbosch, a picturesque heritage-rich busy place with distinctive architecture , in a winelands valley surrounded by mountains, with lots of interesting shops and restaurants. Lunch here then a relaxed wander around ending up at the museum. This takes the form of 4 houses, the first built and furnished as in 1690 - 1720, the other 3 progressing up to the Victorian era. Fascinating to walk through them and see the rooms as they were here through the centuries.
6pm now, back at Rosenview Farm. returning to the town for dinner this evening.
Take care everyone,
John
Stellenbosch
Breakfast at a civilised 7.30, off at 8.30 on a 3 hour hike on the Helderberg Mountains behind Stellenbosch. Through woodland and scrub up the side of the nearest mountain, not quite to the top (a bit steep there). Fantastic views including Table Mountain in the distance. Weather holding out, cool dry and breezy, just right except for some high cloud. Very enjoyable.
Then to the town of Stellenbosch, a picturesque heritage-rich busy place with distinctive architecture , in a winelands valley surrounded by mountains, with lots of interesting shops and restaurants. Lunch here then a relaxed wander around ending up at the museum. This takes the form of 4 houses, the first built and furnished as in 1690 - 1720, the other 3 progressing up to the Victorian era. Fascinating to walk through them and see the rooms as they were here through the centuries.
6pm now, back at Rosenview Farm. returning to the town for dinner this evening.
Take care everyone,
John
Monday, November 09, 2009
South Africa Monday 9 Nov '09
South Africa Monday 9 Nov '09
Wine Country
Encountered a small troupe of Baboons on the road. Got some good photos.
It's Kerry's birthday today so we have a chocolate each and sing happy birthday.
First stop Drakenstein Prison. This is where Nelson Mandela was held for the last two years of his imprisonment, and where he was sensationally released, 1982 I think. They recently erected a statue of him in front of the main gate- another photo opportunity for us tourists!
Then to the town of Franschhoch, established early 18th century for french settlers, Huguenots, who started growing wine here. They were forced to learn and speak only in dutch so there is little influence on the language (africaans) but, of course, many french names continue including those we see playing for the Springboks.
Next we travel to the Seidelberg Wine Estate. We have the wine making processes explained and see the oak barrels and steel vats containing maturing wines. Then in the old brick cellars, the wine tasting commences. I don't know much about wine but it doesn't matter. I thoroughly enjoy sitting there having my glass repeatedly replenished with various samples of their produce. Have to listen to stuff about the different smells and tastes but that doesn't delay the proceedings too much. The accompanying biscuits are very nice too.
Then on to another wineyard called Fairview. There is a huge restaurant here so first I stock up on Panin, ham and cooked vegetables before commencing the second wine tasting. I enjoy this even more than the first but cannot remember much about the six wines we try here. But I do remember the wonderful cheeses we were also given to sample, especially the one called blue rock, it was out of this world.
Next we are taken to the Africaans Language monument, two concrete spires and lots of symbolic concrete shapes that depict the history and life of the local language that Africaans people are clearly very proud of. The area has lots of trees and birds - it is a very quiet and peaceful place to be. Especially after two consecutive wine tasting sessions.
Finally to Rosenview, a farmhouse all on its own in the middle of vine fields in the Stellenbosch region. A short walk in the fields followed by a superb meal cooked by the farmhouse staff. Hake mashed with mayonnaise and cheese to start, main course bobotie, chicken cottage pie, venison and veg. And the red wine of course. Don't know what was in the bobotie but it was very nice. Then ice-cream and strawberries, finishing with the locally invented red bush tea.
A very pleasant day
All the Best,
John
Wine Country
Encountered a small troupe of Baboons on the road. Got some good photos.
It's Kerry's birthday today so we have a chocolate each and sing happy birthday.
First stop Drakenstein Prison. This is where Nelson Mandela was held for the last two years of his imprisonment, and where he was sensationally released, 1982 I think. They recently erected a statue of him in front of the main gate- another photo opportunity for us tourists!
Then to the town of Franschhoch, established early 18th century for french settlers, Huguenots, who started growing wine here. They were forced to learn and speak only in dutch so there is little influence on the language (africaans) but, of course, many french names continue including those we see playing for the Springboks.
Next we travel to the Seidelberg Wine Estate. We have the wine making processes explained and see the oak barrels and steel vats containing maturing wines. Then in the old brick cellars, the wine tasting commences. I don't know much about wine but it doesn't matter. I thoroughly enjoy sitting there having my glass repeatedly replenished with various samples of their produce. Have to listen to stuff about the different smells and tastes but that doesn't delay the proceedings too much. The accompanying biscuits are very nice too.
Then on to another wineyard called Fairview. There is a huge restaurant here so first I stock up on Panin, ham and cooked vegetables before commencing the second wine tasting. I enjoy this even more than the first but cannot remember much about the six wines we try here. But I do remember the wonderful cheeses we were also given to sample, especially the one called blue rock, it was out of this world.
Next we are taken to the Africaans Language monument, two concrete spires and lots of symbolic concrete shapes that depict the history and life of the local language that Africaans people are clearly very proud of. The area has lots of trees and birds - it is a very quiet and peaceful place to be. Especially after two consecutive wine tasting sessions.
Finally to Rosenview, a farmhouse all on its own in the middle of vine fields in the Stellenbosch region. A short walk in the fields followed by a superb meal cooked by the farmhouse staff. Hake mashed with mayonnaise and cheese to start, main course bobotie, chicken cottage pie, venison and veg. And the red wine of course. Don't know what was in the bobotie but it was very nice. Then ice-cream and strawberries, finishing with the locally invented red bush tea.
A very pleasant day
All the Best,
John
Sunday, November 08, 2009
South Africa Sunday 8 November '09
South Africa Sunday 8 Nov '09
Cape Town
Yesterday, wandered around the coastal path then the V & A Waterfront, a very nicely laid out harbours and docks area with plenty of shops, live entertainment and restaurants for tourists. Saw the nearby huge stadium they have built for next year's (football) World Cup - very impressive.
Starting 11 day tour with company called 'Explore', met the group in the Ritz Hotel yesterday evening, 18 of us, leader Chris is Africaans, we have two canadians, 2 welsh, 2 northern irish and the rest english. Had a perfectly cooked rump steak in a nearby restaurant.
Today at 7.30 we climb into bus for tour of the Cape Peninsula National Park.
First to Hout Bay, an active fishing port with a dramatic backdrop of mountains including 'The Sentinal', a massive rock. We walk along the pretty beach then to a cafe for coffee.
Then an incredible cliff hugging drive along the coast to the Cape of Good Hope, this (we are told) is a world ranked route for beautiful and dramatic scenery and it is well deserved. Part of it had been closed for 3 years (due to a 5 tonne rock falling onto a car) and reopened with netting protection 3 weeks ago. Spectacular.
At Cape Point, we walk up to the lighthouse for breathtaking views, then down to beach level. I get some decent photos which I hope to attach to the e-mail.
The terrain is like moorland, but scattered about are clumps of pure white flowers. Chris tells us they are called ice plants and some have been exported to the UK but I have never seen them. They are not in full bloom for us due to the cloudy weather but are still very striking.
Next to Simonstown, a (formerly British) major navel port. Plenty of fishing boats and I have the best fish cakes ever here for lunch.
Lastly to Boulders Beach to catch sight of a resident colony of African Penguins. They used to be called the Jackass Penguin due to their donkey-like braying, but because these birds are peculiar to SA and other penguins in South America make similar noises, they re-named this lot the African Penguin. Thought you'd like to know that. They just look like penguins to me.
We drive a different way back, and see more beautiful landscape and beaches.
Raining all day so a bit wet but no matter, this is a beautiful and spectacular place.
All the Best to everyone, more to come when I can get online,
John
Cape Town
Yesterday, wandered around the coastal path then the V & A Waterfront, a very nicely laid out harbours and docks area with plenty of shops, live entertainment and restaurants for tourists. Saw the nearby huge stadium they have built for next year's (football) World Cup - very impressive.
Starting 11 day tour with company called 'Explore', met the group in the Ritz Hotel yesterday evening, 18 of us, leader Chris is Africaans, we have two canadians, 2 welsh, 2 northern irish and the rest english. Had a perfectly cooked rump steak in a nearby restaurant.
Today at 7.30 we climb into bus for tour of the Cape Peninsula National Park.
First to Hout Bay, an active fishing port with a dramatic backdrop of mountains including 'The Sentinal', a massive rock. We walk along the pretty beach then to a cafe for coffee.
Then an incredible cliff hugging drive along the coast to the Cape of Good Hope, this (we are told) is a world ranked route for beautiful and dramatic scenery and it is well deserved. Part of it had been closed for 3 years (due to a 5 tonne rock falling onto a car) and reopened with netting protection 3 weeks ago. Spectacular.
At Cape Point, we walk up to the lighthouse for breathtaking views, then down to beach level. I get some decent photos which I hope to attach to the e-mail.
The terrain is like moorland, but scattered about are clumps of pure white flowers. Chris tells us they are called ice plants and some have been exported to the UK but I have never seen them. They are not in full bloom for us due to the cloudy weather but are still very striking.
Next to Simonstown, a (formerly British) major navel port. Plenty of fishing boats and I have the best fish cakes ever here for lunch.
Lastly to Boulders Beach to catch sight of a resident colony of African Penguins. They used to be called the Jackass Penguin due to their donkey-like braying, but because these birds are peculiar to SA and other penguins in South America make similar noises, they re-named this lot the African Penguin. Thought you'd like to know that. They just look like penguins to me.
We drive a different way back, and see more beautiful landscape and beaches.
Raining all day so a bit wet but no matter, this is a beautiful and spectacular place.
All the Best to everyone, more to come when I can get online,
John
Sunday, June 14, 2009
Some more days out in Phuket
We visited Phuket Town, the first time I have beeen there. These pictures taken in the Chinese Museum, they have a whole hall full of pictures of food.
This is the view from Big Buddha
Lastly, here is the bar in the Starlight2 Guest House in Karon.
We visited Phuket Town, the first time I have beeen there. These pictures taken in the Chinese Museum, they have a whole hall full of pictures of food.
Sat down on a bench to rest weary feet and this class appeared, running out through school gates for their PE lesson.
.
This is the bus we took from Karon to Phuket Town. Just benches along each side and one up the middle. 80p each.
Here is Big Buddha. He sits on top of a hill overlooking coasts both sides. Earlier photo shows me pointing to Him from Wat Chalong. They are still working around the base.
This is the view from Big Buddha
Another day, another beach. This is Patong beach, the largest resort in Phuket.
Lastly, here is the bar in the Starlight2 Guest House in Karon.
Saturday, June 13, 2009
CHINA trip - Phuket day trips
CHINA trip - Phuket day trips
Have mostly relaxed here in Phuket, but done a few day trips, so here they are (with pictures I hope, not put pictures with text before!).
Had a very pleasant afternoon on Kata (main) beach. It is more of a bay than Karon (where the sea is the roughest and most dangerous). I go for my only dip in the sea this holiday, it is too rough even here to swim, all you can do is bounce about in the waves. I can feel the undercurrent, which apparently is much worse on Karon
Here is another view of Kata beach.
Another afternoon, we go to Kata Noi, the small Kata beach. If anything, it is even more beautiful. I capture the sunset on a series of pictures - here is one of them.
Another day, we go to Wat Chalong, one of the largest and most popular Temples on Phuket. It houses the statues of 3 highly respected monks. With several ancilliary buildings, model elephants and lovely gardens, this is a beautiful place. Here are a few pictures.
The first picture shows the Temple building. Inside the top pointy bit, they have a special shrine housing a piece of Buddha's bones flown over from Sri Lanka. The second photo shows me standing on the roof of the main building pointing towards the Big Buddha, which you can just see on top of the hill. We visit this later in the holiday.
Inside the Temple.
A beautiful placeFrom the temple, we take the short drive to Chalong Bay and Pier. Here we relax for an hour, and I have 2 cups of tea.
We visit an elephant stable. There is a family with a young child looking after them and they seem content, and get hosed down occasionally which they obviously enjoy (the elephants) .
Yet another day, we drive to a viewpoint. It is so picturesque here, largely unspoilt except the tourist beachside areas. The next picture shows Kata Noi beach in the foreground, Kata beach in the middle and Karon in the distance with it's tower block.
There are many stray dogs here, but they look to be in good condition. Buddhism respects all living creatures and I suspect that the locals feed them scraps and unsold food.
Lastly in this posting, a favourite restaurant overlooking Kata
I hope you enjoyed these. I hope to post a few more soon.
All the Best,
John
Monday, June 08, 2009
Thursday, June 04, 2009
Wednesday, June 03, 2009
Sunday, May 31, 2009
CHINA Bangkok tour day5
CHINA Bangkok tour day5
Today we are going to another city, a very special place not far inland from Bangkok. We take a taxi, skytrain, and a minibus to get there.
Ayutthaya was the capital city of Siam. Founded in 1350 and located on an island created by 3 rivers, it was well positioned for defence against attack and at the same time, easily accessible for trading ships. Ayutthaya was a successful, booming capital city for over 400 years. Then in 1767 an army from Myanmar (briefly renamed Burma by the British) marched on the city, over-ran it and then sacked it, taking gold that had covered the Buddha images, and other decorations, before burning the whole city, palaces, temples, everything. It never recovered and Bangkok became the new capital.
Ayutthaya is now a bustling city functioning around the ruins of the old capital. Some of the ruined building complexes cover several acres, others are on smaller sites. We are driven around the city in a car that waits for us at each ruin we visit, about 10 in all. This place, as the capital of Siam with all its gold and splendour, must have been incredible. Even the ruins are awe inspiring.
Back in Bangkok for my last evening here, Mint piles us into a taxi which, after a short drive, turns into a derelict piece of land, negotiating a huge puddle of water at the entrance. In the far corner, maybe 100m from the entrance, there are a few cars and lights. A rave, I wonder. In fact, the far corner reveals the entrance to a huge barn-like restaurant. There is a live Thai rock band belting out incomprehensible Thai songs with much audience participation, a great atmosphere. We learn later that there are seven separate birthday parties here this evening. The whole place is rocking with the band, which obviously knows how to get an audience going. A great evening.
Now I have to bid a sad farewell to Mint before I fly to Phuket for a quiet few weeks of relaxation. Might do a few trips there, will report if I do. Otherwise, it's China on 15th. I plan to blog from there, but I have heard that they have heavy censorship of the Internet and blogs might be a target. We will see.
All the Best to everyone,
John
Today we are going to another city, a very special place not far inland from Bangkok. We take a taxi, skytrain, and a minibus to get there.
Ayutthaya was the capital city of Siam. Founded in 1350 and located on an island created by 3 rivers, it was well positioned for defence against attack and at the same time, easily accessible for trading ships. Ayutthaya was a successful, booming capital city for over 400 years. Then in 1767 an army from Myanmar (briefly renamed Burma by the British) marched on the city, over-ran it and then sacked it, taking gold that had covered the Buddha images, and other decorations, before burning the whole city, palaces, temples, everything. It never recovered and Bangkok became the new capital.
Ayutthaya is now a bustling city functioning around the ruins of the old capital. Some of the ruined building complexes cover several acres, others are on smaller sites. We are driven around the city in a car that waits for us at each ruin we visit, about 10 in all. This place, as the capital of Siam with all its gold and splendour, must have been incredible. Even the ruins are awe inspiring.
Back in Bangkok for my last evening here, Mint piles us into a taxi which, after a short drive, turns into a derelict piece of land, negotiating a huge puddle of water at the entrance. In the far corner, maybe 100m from the entrance, there are a few cars and lights. A rave, I wonder. In fact, the far corner reveals the entrance to a huge barn-like restaurant. There is a live Thai rock band belting out incomprehensible Thai songs with much audience participation, a great atmosphere. We learn later that there are seven separate birthday parties here this evening. The whole place is rocking with the band, which obviously knows how to get an audience going. A great evening.
Now I have to bid a sad farewell to Mint before I fly to Phuket for a quiet few weeks of relaxation. Might do a few trips there, will report if I do. Otherwise, it's China on 15th. I plan to blog from there, but I have heard that they have heavy censorship of the Internet and blogs might be a target. We will see.
All the Best to everyone,
John
Saturday, May 30, 2009
CHINA Bangkok tour day4
CHINA Bangkok tour day4
We visit Erawan Museum, not just an ordinary museum, but beautiful gardens dominated by, in the centre, a huge elephant with 3 heads on a pedestal. It is not a real elephant, it is 43.6 metres high from toe to top of head. The pedestal is a large round structure that you can go inside to view an exhibition of Thai/Buddhist philosophy. So the top of the elephant must be 60 metres above ground. It's big and very impressive. 3 headed elephants have major significance in Asian culture.
Now we enter staircase that winds its way up inside one of the elephants legs. part way up you can crouch down to look out of a small window down to the ground, a long way down! The top of the staircase takes us into the belly of the elephant. Here there are, in glass cases along each side, ancient Buddhas, some going back to 13th century. At the end, inside one of the elephant's heads, is a gold Buddha mounted high up and surrounded by flowers and ornaments as they do. This is a beautiful room, all the more striking for being inside the elephant's tummy.
We go back outside and I look back up at the elephant - the whole thing is spectacular.
After lunch, soup in a nearby outside restaurant, we travel across the city to 'Ancient Siam'. This is a large park with reconstructed villages, temples and other structures from the past. We are driven around in a sort of trolley bus which has a handle for steering it - I think cars used to have these, I wonder if some of my older friends remember them? This is an interesting and attractive place, you could spend a whole day walking around here. There is even a floating village. We have an ice cream here. We see Siamese dancing girls and bullocks.
Last day of this tour tomorrow,
All the Best,
John
We visit Erawan Museum, not just an ordinary museum, but beautiful gardens dominated by, in the centre, a huge elephant with 3 heads on a pedestal. It is not a real elephant, it is 43.6 metres high from toe to top of head. The pedestal is a large round structure that you can go inside to view an exhibition of Thai/Buddhist philosophy. So the top of the elephant must be 60 metres above ground. It's big and very impressive. 3 headed elephants have major significance in Asian culture.
Now we enter staircase that winds its way up inside one of the elephants legs. part way up you can crouch down to look out of a small window down to the ground, a long way down! The top of the staircase takes us into the belly of the elephant. Here there are, in glass cases along each side, ancient Buddhas, some going back to 13th century. At the end, inside one of the elephant's heads, is a gold Buddha mounted high up and surrounded by flowers and ornaments as they do. This is a beautiful room, all the more striking for being inside the elephant's tummy.
We go back outside and I look back up at the elephant - the whole thing is spectacular.
After lunch, soup in a nearby outside restaurant, we travel across the city to 'Ancient Siam'. This is a large park with reconstructed villages, temples and other structures from the past. We are driven around in a sort of trolley bus which has a handle for steering it - I think cars used to have these, I wonder if some of my older friends remember them? This is an interesting and attractive place, you could spend a whole day walking around here. There is even a floating village. We have an ice cream here. We see Siamese dancing girls and bullocks.
Last day of this tour tomorrow,
All the Best,
John
Friday, May 29, 2009
CHINA Bangkok tour day3
CHINA Bangkok tour day3
Breakfast starts with help-yourself tea or coffee. I have to stand in a sea of red ants to get it and there is a lizard darting around between the cups and jars but it is worth it for my first cup of english-ish tea since Amersham. The fried egg, bacon and toast also goes down well.
We spend most of the day on the beach in very comfortable chairs under a shade under palm trees, I sleep, eat bananas and lychees, have a swim in warm sea, and watch the world go by, is this heaven?
We visit one more beach, then ferry to mainland, bus and taxi back to hotel in Bangkok.
Back to 'Ments' restaurant this evening, see round up of final premiership matches on their tele, Newcastle never seemed to get their act together after Bobby Robson, very sad but maybe what they need. Another excellent meal including their amazing soup.
That's it, ready for bed after all that,
All the Best,
John
Breakfast starts with help-yourself tea or coffee. I have to stand in a sea of red ants to get it and there is a lizard darting around between the cups and jars but it is worth it for my first cup of english-ish tea since Amersham. The fried egg, bacon and toast also goes down well.
We spend most of the day on the beach in very comfortable chairs under a shade under palm trees, I sleep, eat bananas and lychees, have a swim in warm sea, and watch the world go by, is this heaven?
We visit one more beach, then ferry to mainland, bus and taxi back to hotel in Bangkok.
Back to 'Ments' restaurant this evening, see round up of final premiership matches on their tele, Newcastle never seemed to get their act together after Bobby Robson, very sad but maybe what they need. Another excellent meal including their amazing soup.
That's it, ready for bed after all that,
All the Best,
John
Thursday, May 28, 2009
CHINA Bangkok tour day2
CHINA Bangkok tour day2
Today we go to Samet, an island in the Gulf of Thailand. After 4 hour bus journey, we have lunch on the pier before catching ferry to Samet.
We meet a Belgian girl who is backpacking s.e.asia having sold everything at home. She had already 'done' Thailand but been taken seriously ill in Cambodia and sent back to Bangkok which had the nearest hospital sufficiently equipped to treat her.
On the island, I have to sit on the back of a motor bike to get to chalet accommodation. The 'roads' are not made up, huge potholes, worse than bucks, big puddles, lots of traffic all over the place, bumping up and down, We go slow so I live but have sore bum.
After check in, back on bike to visit 5 beaches in all. This place is close to paradise, beautiful fine sandy beaches with bars and restaurants actually on the beach. We stop at one where I recline in an incredibly comfortable lounger chair and down a (rather strong) screwdriver. The next beach has a man with trolley making pancakes. I have a blueberry one and eat it strolling along the beach.
Evening meal is in a restaurant on the beach, accompanied by a dozen jugglers also on the beach throwing lighted torches in the air, very effective in the night sky. The meal is good but the place is packed so service a bit slow. I have a chicken breast stuffed with bacon and cheese covered in a breadcrumb crust. delicious. Lastly a couple of hours dancing to a very good and loud rock band in a nearby pub. I like this island. We have one more day here.
all the Best,
John
Today we go to Samet, an island in the Gulf of Thailand. After 4 hour bus journey, we have lunch on the pier before catching ferry to Samet.
We meet a Belgian girl who is backpacking s.e.asia having sold everything at home. She had already 'done' Thailand but been taken seriously ill in Cambodia and sent back to Bangkok which had the nearest hospital sufficiently equipped to treat her.
On the island, I have to sit on the back of a motor bike to get to chalet accommodation. The 'roads' are not made up, huge potholes, worse than bucks, big puddles, lots of traffic all over the place, bumping up and down, We go slow so I live but have sore bum.
After check in, back on bike to visit 5 beaches in all. This place is close to paradise, beautiful fine sandy beaches with bars and restaurants actually on the beach. We stop at one where I recline in an incredibly comfortable lounger chair and down a (rather strong) screwdriver. The next beach has a man with trolley making pancakes. I have a blueberry one and eat it strolling along the beach.
Evening meal is in a restaurant on the beach, accompanied by a dozen jugglers also on the beach throwing lighted torches in the air, very effective in the night sky. The meal is good but the place is packed so service a bit slow. I have a chicken breast stuffed with bacon and cheese covered in a breadcrumb crust. delicious. Lastly a couple of hours dancing to a very good and loud rock band in a nearby pub. I like this island. We have one more day here.
all the Best,
John
Monday, May 25, 2009
CHINA
CHINA
Starting this trip with some sightseeing in Bangkok. Gave myself a couple of quiet days to adjust to time zone and plan days ahead with guide Mint. Thailand is normally 7 hours ahead but for some reason they do not have BST here so currently only 6 hours ahead.
First evening I am taken to a Lao restaurant by Mint with 2 friends, Dee and Li. A live band and dancers plus good food make this a very pleasant start to my holiday.
Second evening we go to the Bangkok House of Rock. A brilliant 7 piece band belts out Beatles to Pink while I eat fried chicken and chips (yes chips, sorry). I really like this music but I think Mint finds it a bit loud.
First tour day starts with 5 hours in National Museum. Could have spent considerably more time here there is so much to see. One building charts the history of Thailand with its kings and wars, all very well presented in Thai and English. The main building is an old palace comprising a maze of rooms, each dedicated to a class of exhibits. The ivory room has many beautifully carved tusks, some huge, very sad for the elephants of course but a striking art form nonetheless.
Another building, like a large barn, contains chariots used by kings and royalty for carrying urns containing the ashes of cremated royalty through the city in funeral processions. Two of the chariots are an incredible size, multi-tiered in pyramid shape with big wheels and reaching up to the very high ceiling, they are 15 metres long and over 11 m high. Very impressive structures.
Next on to Wat Pho, a giant Buddha lying down on his side, covered in gold he must be 50 m long and 10 m high at the head. It chucks it down with rain while we are in here creating a moat all around temple, have to wait for rain to stop then take shoes off and roll up trousers to paddle back to street.
A very late lunch is in a roadside establishment, basically a tarp over scaffolding frame with a lady cooking in a sort of trolley. I have rice, chicken and other stuff in a bowl, it is very hot and tasty. It is raining again while we are in here, they are poking the roof to dislodge water collecting in it.
Now we take ferry across the main river through Bangkok to see another temple and take silly photos where you put your face through a hole in the back of a figure with colourful costume painted on the front.
Back on the ferry to visit a Buddhist shrine, buying flowers with candles and incense sticks for offering to Buddha and making wishes.
Now we are walking for a mile or so and get caught in prolonged heavy rain. We are very wet when we reach canal ferry 'bus stop'. The ferry boat is like our canal barges about the same size and dimensions but with a big motor. What a trip this is - pouring with rain in a fast barge packed with about 100 commuters going home, rocking and rolling as we pass others going the opposite way in these narrow canals, around corners and under bridges, stopping at 'stations' where some passengers leap out but ever more squeeze in, it's a miracle no-one falls into the water. I get glimpses of shack-like homes along the edges of the canals with muli-storey blocks towering above them, but can't see much due to canvas side sheets hauled up by the nearest passenger to try to keep the rain out. Incredibly there is a Muslim lady in her pure white robes with Thai men doing their best to keep her and the rest of us moderately dry (although we are already soaked). A memorable experience that I would like to repeat on a dry day when I would see more.
This evening I am taken to a real Thai restaurant. A large scaffolding structure with sheeting keeps most of the rain out (yes it is raining again). Mints cousin Mam works here, she runs up and is obviously delighted to see us. A single performer with a guitar on a very dodgy looking stage is singing Thai songs. The food is superb. I especially enjoy the soup with seaweed and all sorts of stuff in it. Delicious.
Tonight I sleep like a baby.
All the Best to you all,
John
Starting this trip with some sightseeing in Bangkok. Gave myself a couple of quiet days to adjust to time zone and plan days ahead with guide Mint. Thailand is normally 7 hours ahead but for some reason they do not have BST here so currently only 6 hours ahead.
First evening I am taken to a Lao restaurant by Mint with 2 friends, Dee and Li. A live band and dancers plus good food make this a very pleasant start to my holiday.
Second evening we go to the Bangkok House of Rock. A brilliant 7 piece band belts out Beatles to Pink while I eat fried chicken and chips (yes chips, sorry). I really like this music but I think Mint finds it a bit loud.
First tour day starts with 5 hours in National Museum. Could have spent considerably more time here there is so much to see. One building charts the history of Thailand with its kings and wars, all very well presented in Thai and English. The main building is an old palace comprising a maze of rooms, each dedicated to a class of exhibits. The ivory room has many beautifully carved tusks, some huge, very sad for the elephants of course but a striking art form nonetheless.
Another building, like a large barn, contains chariots used by kings and royalty for carrying urns containing the ashes of cremated royalty through the city in funeral processions. Two of the chariots are an incredible size, multi-tiered in pyramid shape with big wheels and reaching up to the very high ceiling, they are 15 metres long and over 11 m high. Very impressive structures.
Next on to Wat Pho, a giant Buddha lying down on his side, covered in gold he must be 50 m long and 10 m high at the head. It chucks it down with rain while we are in here creating a moat all around temple, have to wait for rain to stop then take shoes off and roll up trousers to paddle back to street.
A very late lunch is in a roadside establishment, basically a tarp over scaffolding frame with a lady cooking in a sort of trolley. I have rice, chicken and other stuff in a bowl, it is very hot and tasty. It is raining again while we are in here, they are poking the roof to dislodge water collecting in it.
Now we take ferry across the main river through Bangkok to see another temple and take silly photos where you put your face through a hole in the back of a figure with colourful costume painted on the front.
Back on the ferry to visit a Buddhist shrine, buying flowers with candles and incense sticks for offering to Buddha and making wishes.
Now we are walking for a mile or so and get caught in prolonged heavy rain. We are very wet when we reach canal ferry 'bus stop'. The ferry boat is like our canal barges about the same size and dimensions but with a big motor. What a trip this is - pouring with rain in a fast barge packed with about 100 commuters going home, rocking and rolling as we pass others going the opposite way in these narrow canals, around corners and under bridges, stopping at 'stations' where some passengers leap out but ever more squeeze in, it's a miracle no-one falls into the water. I get glimpses of shack-like homes along the edges of the canals with muli-storey blocks towering above them, but can't see much due to canvas side sheets hauled up by the nearest passenger to try to keep the rain out. Incredibly there is a Muslim lady in her pure white robes with Thai men doing their best to keep her and the rest of us moderately dry (although we are already soaked). A memorable experience that I would like to repeat on a dry day when I would see more.
This evening I am taken to a real Thai restaurant. A large scaffolding structure with sheeting keeps most of the rain out (yes it is raining again). Mints cousin Mam works here, she runs up and is obviously delighted to see us. A single performer with a guitar on a very dodgy looking stage is singing Thai songs. The food is superb. I especially enjoy the soup with seaweed and all sorts of stuff in it. Delicious.
Tonight I sleep like a baby.
All the Best to you all,
John
Saturday, February 07, 2009
English Tea House & Borneo Jungle Mon2 - Fri6 Feb09
English Tea House & Borneo Jungle Mon2 - Fri6 Feb09
Yes, I paid a visit to the English Tea House. It is a restaurant on top of a hill overlooking Sandakan. I had shoulder of lamb Malaysian style, a bit tough but fully compensated by superb sauce. Then blueberry and Lychee crumble with custard, yes custard, delicious. They also make an excellent cup of tea (a rarity out here). Chatted with Michelle the waitress who has worked there since it opened 7 years ago and has 4 children, all girls.
Now I am going to Bilit Lodge on the edge of the Knabatangan River in the rainforest/jungle with Ray and his wife Hamdia, who is very pretty. Hamdia was brought up just down river from the Lodge and will stay with her mother who still lives there. On the way we stop for lunch at the restaurant in Sepilok Jungle Resort and I meet Ray's 'big boss', John Lin who is also a local leader. He is getting ready to travel to Sandakan Airport to be a part of the delegation to meet The Sultan of Brunei who, with his family, is paying a visit to the area. The authorities have put up thousands of flags to welcome them.
Next we have a 2 and half hours drive, through mainly Palm Oil plantations, to the bank of the Knabatangan River. Now we are deep in the rainforest. There are many trees here and it is raining. We cross the river in a small totally open motor boat which has planks of wood across it to seat 8. There are only 3 of us plus bags so plenty of room. The Lodge is a series of timber buildings joined by a long raised wooden walkway under which there is a lot of water overflowing from the river. Right next to the edge of the river is the dining area with wooden tables and benches and very welcome tea and coffee. Everything is built on stilts but the water is not far from the bottom of some of the walkways and the ground floor of a storage building. All of the people here are very happy and friendly. There are boatmen, guides, the cook, cleaners and general helpers. Some of their wives and children are there sometimes, making it a family atmosphere. This is a great place to be.
However it is raining. February is between the rainy winter season and dry summer so we are a bit unlucky but press on anyway with the trips. First we go down river in the same boat, me and Ray, 2 Swedish girls and 2 grey-haired Italian guys. This river is 530 km long and about 100 metres wide just here. It is quite fast flowing with much debris, logs and other bits of trees whizzing by. In the trees we see 2 families of Long Tailed Macaques, 2 families of Proboscis Monkeys and a Pygmy Borneo Elephant (the monkeys were in the trees, not the elephant). It is raining so didn't take many photos but got a few good ones. Then back to Bilit Lodge for dinner, basic Malaysian but very tasty and welcome. I chat to the girls, they are 22 and 26 and on a six month self organised tour of Asia. Their next stop is Bali.
Next day we are up and ready at 6am. Sadly the Swedish girls have departed, they arrived a day earlier than us. This time the boat goes up river and turns off into a very narrow waterway into the jungle. We dodge branches and vines, going very slowly, we eventually get to a large lake called Oxbow because it is shaped like an ox's horns. Around the lake we see more Macaques in small groups in the trees, also a Serpent Eagle and several Snake Birds (they have long necks). Going back through the waterway, we have to duck under a very large spider waiting for prey in the middle of it's web. Back to the river and the Lodge for breakfast.
For our second trip today, we go upriver again but this time we are dropped of on the bank and have to walk for an hour to the lake. Led by Ray, then me and the 2 Italians and a helper bringing up the rear. Well, it is very wet and muddy. We have all hired wellies and leech proof socks but the mud and water is up to the tops of our boots. Ray looses a boot 3 times finding the best route, stuck in the mud. At one point, he can't find a way around a large puddle with thick jungle either side, so he cuts down a tree (he has a very sharp knife, they were headhunters until quite recently in this area) and lays it across the puddle and we have to balance across it. Along the way we see huge millipedes, long thin ones maybe 30 cm/1 ft long and short fat ones 2 inches diameter. They are not edible. More spiders, and we have to keep checking for leeches. They can jump apparently, can be small or quite large and they feed on your blood. You feel a sharp prick when they start. When we got to the lake we all had to take our shirts off to check for leeches, so was sorry the Swedish girls weren't there for me to assist them in this task. I had 4, all on my clothes fortunately, although one of them is in my pocket and was attached to my camera. You have to pull really hard to get them off. Now we have a picnic lunch on a timber platform by the lake, vegetable rice, chicken and fish. I chat to the Italians, I think they are a couple, they have been travelling the world for 25 years, six months travelling, six months working to pay for it. Next onto the boat for the trip back to the Lodge and free time which I use to catch up on some sleep.
The third boat trip today (5th in all including the first river crossing), we go down river. It is still raining, heavily now, and the Italians decide to give this one a miss but we have 2 young girls, children of Lodge workers, with us. We see more Proboscis and Macaque monkeys and get very wet! Then dinner and an early night. We have a 5am departure time tomorrow, extra early because we have heard that there is a bridge down on the road back to Sandakan.
Next morning, Ray, Hamdiah and me are collected by the boatman (the same one throughout, a great guy, always happy and helpful). By now, much of the walkway, the landing stage and the ground floor of the store are all under water. We board the boat from a higher part of the walkway, the boat having been brought in across what should be land. We are taken across the now very swollen river to the car which fortunately is a 4x4, and make good time until we get to the stationery queue back from the broken bridge not far from Sandakan. I need to get to the airport for my flight back to Kuala Lumpur and there is obviously no way we are going to get the car through to the broken bridge, let alone across it. So Ray organises someone to meet us on the other side, we get my bags and walk! The bridge is easy to walk across, in fact the 4x4 could have made it but might have done more damage in the process. We meet the other car, where I have to say a sad farewell to Ray and Hamdiah and I am driven to Sandakan Airport.
Now I am in Bangkok on the way back to England. My 6 week trip is nearly over. I am looking forward to seeing everyone again, especially Leon.
All the Best,
John
Yes, I paid a visit to the English Tea House. It is a restaurant on top of a hill overlooking Sandakan. I had shoulder of lamb Malaysian style, a bit tough but fully compensated by superb sauce. Then blueberry and Lychee crumble with custard, yes custard, delicious. They also make an excellent cup of tea (a rarity out here). Chatted with Michelle the waitress who has worked there since it opened 7 years ago and has 4 children, all girls.
Now I am going to Bilit Lodge on the edge of the Knabatangan River in the rainforest/jungle with Ray and his wife Hamdia, who is very pretty. Hamdia was brought up just down river from the Lodge and will stay with her mother who still lives there. On the way we stop for lunch at the restaurant in Sepilok Jungle Resort and I meet Ray's 'big boss', John Lin who is also a local leader. He is getting ready to travel to Sandakan Airport to be a part of the delegation to meet The Sultan of Brunei who, with his family, is paying a visit to the area. The authorities have put up thousands of flags to welcome them.
Next we have a 2 and half hours drive, through mainly Palm Oil plantations, to the bank of the Knabatangan River. Now we are deep in the rainforest. There are many trees here and it is raining. We cross the river in a small totally open motor boat which has planks of wood across it to seat 8. There are only 3 of us plus bags so plenty of room. The Lodge is a series of timber buildings joined by a long raised wooden walkway under which there is a lot of water overflowing from the river. Right next to the edge of the river is the dining area with wooden tables and benches and very welcome tea and coffee. Everything is built on stilts but the water is not far from the bottom of some of the walkways and the ground floor of a storage building. All of the people here are very happy and friendly. There are boatmen, guides, the cook, cleaners and general helpers. Some of their wives and children are there sometimes, making it a family atmosphere. This is a great place to be.
However it is raining. February is between the rainy winter season and dry summer so we are a bit unlucky but press on anyway with the trips. First we go down river in the same boat, me and Ray, 2 Swedish girls and 2 grey-haired Italian guys. This river is 530 km long and about 100 metres wide just here. It is quite fast flowing with much debris, logs and other bits of trees whizzing by. In the trees we see 2 families of Long Tailed Macaques, 2 families of Proboscis Monkeys and a Pygmy Borneo Elephant (the monkeys were in the trees, not the elephant). It is raining so didn't take many photos but got a few good ones. Then back to Bilit Lodge for dinner, basic Malaysian but very tasty and welcome. I chat to the girls, they are 22 and 26 and on a six month self organised tour of Asia. Their next stop is Bali.
Next day we are up and ready at 6am. Sadly the Swedish girls have departed, they arrived a day earlier than us. This time the boat goes up river and turns off into a very narrow waterway into the jungle. We dodge branches and vines, going very slowly, we eventually get to a large lake called Oxbow because it is shaped like an ox's horns. Around the lake we see more Macaques in small groups in the trees, also a Serpent Eagle and several Snake Birds (they have long necks). Going back through the waterway, we have to duck under a very large spider waiting for prey in the middle of it's web. Back to the river and the Lodge for breakfast.
For our second trip today, we go upriver again but this time we are dropped of on the bank and have to walk for an hour to the lake. Led by Ray, then me and the 2 Italians and a helper bringing up the rear. Well, it is very wet and muddy. We have all hired wellies and leech proof socks but the mud and water is up to the tops of our boots. Ray looses a boot 3 times finding the best route, stuck in the mud. At one point, he can't find a way around a large puddle with thick jungle either side, so he cuts down a tree (he has a very sharp knife, they were headhunters until quite recently in this area) and lays it across the puddle and we have to balance across it. Along the way we see huge millipedes, long thin ones maybe 30 cm/1 ft long and short fat ones 2 inches diameter. They are not edible. More spiders, and we have to keep checking for leeches. They can jump apparently, can be small or quite large and they feed on your blood. You feel a sharp prick when they start. When we got to the lake we all had to take our shirts off to check for leeches, so was sorry the Swedish girls weren't there for me to assist them in this task. I had 4, all on my clothes fortunately, although one of them is in my pocket and was attached to my camera. You have to pull really hard to get them off. Now we have a picnic lunch on a timber platform by the lake, vegetable rice, chicken and fish. I chat to the Italians, I think they are a couple, they have been travelling the world for 25 years, six months travelling, six months working to pay for it. Next onto the boat for the trip back to the Lodge and free time which I use to catch up on some sleep.
The third boat trip today (5th in all including the first river crossing), we go down river. It is still raining, heavily now, and the Italians decide to give this one a miss but we have 2 young girls, children of Lodge workers, with us. We see more Proboscis and Macaque monkeys and get very wet! Then dinner and an early night. We have a 5am departure time tomorrow, extra early because we have heard that there is a bridge down on the road back to Sandakan.
Next morning, Ray, Hamdiah and me are collected by the boatman (the same one throughout, a great guy, always happy and helpful). By now, much of the walkway, the landing stage and the ground floor of the store are all under water. We board the boat from a higher part of the walkway, the boat having been brought in across what should be land. We are taken across the now very swollen river to the car which fortunately is a 4x4, and make good time until we get to the stationery queue back from the broken bridge not far from Sandakan. I need to get to the airport for my flight back to Kuala Lumpur and there is obviously no way we are going to get the car through to the broken bridge, let alone across it. So Ray organises someone to meet us on the other side, we get my bags and walk! The bridge is easy to walk across, in fact the 4x4 could have made it but might have done more damage in the process. We meet the other car, where I have to say a sad farewell to Ray and Hamdiah and I am driven to Sandakan Airport.
Now I am in Bangkok on the way back to England. My 6 week trip is nearly over. I am looking forward to seeing everyone again, especially Leon.
All the Best,
John
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