12 March 2013 Varkala, India

This morning I watch the fishermen at work. On land they are hauling in huge nets, left in the sea all day and overnight, extending maybe 50 metres out from the shore. The two ends of their holding ropes are tethered to giant palm trees. One-man canoes monitor the net and it’s catch as they are pulled towards the shore by a dozen men.

Larger boats work further out to sea, they look to be very basic craft with maybe 10 men fishing traditionally.

Next I go in search of the Janardana  Swami Temple. I walk further than before along the cliff-top, until I reach a point beyond the southern end of the beach. The view of the whole beach from the edge of the cliff here is breathtaking.

I find the temple not far from here. It is a 2000 year old Vaishnavaite shrine of India, located near to Papanasam beach. I walk around the temple, I have to keep moving, the stone paving is so hot on my bare feet. This is an ancient place and I am not allowed to enter the building itself. The holy waters of the sea nearby wash away the sins of the living through bathing in them, and the dead whose ashes are scattered here. A family is standing in the shallow water where the beach meets the sea. Father, mother, daughter about 8, son about 4. They just stand there, all four staring at the sea in front of them. For a long time. I guess they are grieving and mourning a loved one whose ashes have been poured into the sea at this point. I can’t see their faces, even the children don’t move. It is a sad sight.

The imposing cliff face is even more striking from here.

I walk to the north end of the beach where I can relax and have a swim in the warm sea. Actually the swell and crashing waves are so strong that swimming is difficult, so most of the time I just stand or float about, enjoying the movement of the water.

Dinner by the sea is Chicken Shai Korma, pieces of chicken in a brown sauce containing coconut milk and cashew nuts. Delicious.

Good night and best wishes to you all, John