Myanmar day 6

Myanmar day 6 is a sightseeing day, the 9th century town wall, 11th, 12th and 13th century temples and stupas, some with intricate wall paintings of the same period. Bagan has a rich Buddhist history. We visit the golden stupa of Shwezigon Pagoda, the early Mon-style architectural beauty of Ananda Temple and its 9 metre high Buddhas, and Htilominlo Temple with its fine plaster carvings and glazed sandstone decorations. Wonderful stuff. Everywhere we go, we are inundated by mainly young girls selling a whole range of stuff, most of it beautifully hand-made local products and mementos. It is all good-natured and a bit of fun, we all buy something from time to time. For lunch, we walk through a village called East Pwasaw to the far corner where tables have been set up under a huge tamarind tree. Here we are served an excellent 4 course meal. On the way back, guide Kinky starts talking through the window to a family relaxing in their home, we are invited in. The old lady is 96, there with her three daughters, youngest 62. The men and younger women are working in the fields, the children are at school in West Pwasaw. The ladies are happy to talk to us with Kinky translating. This village is largely untouched by the modern world. Palm leaf roofs, timber houses and shelters, sand-like dusty pathways, and huge white oxen beligerently glaring at us. After lunch, we're off to a riverside pier and a cruise up the Irrawaddy in a narrow 8 seater boat with a lawn mower engine driving a propeller on the end of a long pole. We have tea and tamarind sweeties on-board. Then we drift back in the centre of the river which looks a mile wide. Very soothing. Lovely day. Off to the wilds of Shan State tomorrow. All the Best, John

Myanmar day 5

Myanmar day 5 is a day of wildlife encounters. The day starts with a scenic drive to the base of the hard core of the Popa Mountain, on top of which sits temples, numerous Nat shrines and a showcase depicting the story of Mai Wunna, the well known flower eating ogress. On the way we stop to admire this amazing edifice from a distance. Getting back into the bus I have my first brush with the local wildlife. As I approach the back seat where I am sitting I feel something crawling on my face. I instinctively brush it off. It jumps onto the back of a seat. It is a bright green six inch long grasshopper. I catch it in cupped hands and carry it back down the gangway but it is crawling through my thumbs and escapes. I catch it again and eject it from the bus. My good deed for the day. We climb 777 steps to the top of the temple mountain, accompanied all the way by monkeys. Macaques I think. The second encounter takes place when one of then swipes my water bottle out of my hand. He sits on the wall leering at me. So I swipe it back from him. He is very angry, spitting and baring his teeth but it is too late I have my water back ha ha. The locals clap and cheer, I am a celebrity, the monkeys are always stealing stuff so they are pleased to see someone win against them. The views from the top are astounding. Now we drive to Bagan. Half way, we stop at what looks like a random covered area in the middle of nowhere. But here we see a guy climb a ladder to the top of a massive palm tree to pick coconuts, watch an ox going round and round grinding his handlers peanuts to make oil, and sit down to a snack of mashed tea plants into which we mix garlic, onion, sesame seeds, chic peas, peanuts and two kinds of beans. Very moreish. Then I spot a distillery at the back. From 3 big bottles, a clear liquid is dripping. I am offered a glass. It is like very strong but tasteless whisky. I quite like it. Also here some girls are making birds from palm leaves. I buy 3 for the grandkids. I also buy a bag each of coconut, plum and tamarin sweeties for Jo, Philip and Faye. Lunch is in a wildlife park but I only have eyes for the excellent meal we have here. Around Bagan, there are over 2,200 brick built stupas and temples, some dating from 1100AD. It is a remarkable landscape. (A stupa is a solid shrine whereas you can go inside a temple, after taking off your shoes of course) We visit a lacquer workshop, so many beautiful pieces, hand-made, carved, painted, and lacquered. After checking into the Thaxin Garden Hotel with its 'sweet welcome to fairy-land wonders', we are driven to a nearby large temple, and climb to the top for a glorious sunset. Another great day, Best Wishes to you all, John

Myanmar day 4

Myanmar day 4 starts with a 5 hour scenic drive south to Mount Popa. Half way we stop for half an hour at a market, I could have stayed all day, great interaction with real people, I bought another dress for Grace. Mount Popa is an extinct (I hope) volcano, sitting in the middle of vast plains which are peppered with thousands of stupas, described as one of the richest archeological sites in Asia. Mount Popa is a religious and mystical centre, home of Myanmar's most powerful nats, or local spirits. Pilgrims from all over the country visit the mountain, especially in festival time May/June. As we drive up the mountain, the scrub of the plains changes to rich wooded landscapes with flowering trees and bushes. At our restaurant for lunch, there is a plantation of dragon fruits and we sample some after the main meal. An interesting and different taste. We check into the Popa Mountain Resort, have a swim in the mountainside pool, take photos of the sunset, idyllic. All the Best, John

Myanmar day 3

Myanmar day 3 Civilised 8.30 start, to Lake Taungthaman and it's rickety wood bridge across the middle, I walk 1.2k each way pursued by a horde of pretty young girls trying to sell bracelets/postcards/fans, I resist, but give a 12 year old boy some money for imparting lots of info as we walk.

Then Mahagandayon Monastery and the spectacle of 1000 monks queuing to collect their daily meal from local Buddhists; to me they look stressed and unhappy, maybe due to the multitude of snapping tourists, I feel uncomfortable for them.

Next a silk weaving workshop, girls very skilful on looms, making 1 metre per week of exquisite patterned silk clothing. Next a silver workshop, I see a very heavy solid silver beautiful elephant about 8 inches high, dare not ask it's price, I guess 1000s USD. Now we drive over one of the bridges across the Irrawaddy River to Sagaing which has 600 white painted pagodas and monasteries, 3000 monks and 100 meditation centres...the religious centre of Myanmar. We visit Swan Oo Pon Nya Shin Pagoda and a Nunnery. The Abbotess? shows us around the latter as shaven girls chant stuff they have to learn by heart for exams, a happy and tranquil place for its inmates I think.

Next to Mingun where we climb a heap of steps to the top of Mya Thein Dan Pagoda. A little further up the road is the famously unfinished Mingun Pahtodawqui, a huge brick structure left half built after an astrologer predicted the King would die on its completion, then in the 1800s hit by an earthquake leaving nasty looking cracks through it. We climb the steps nearly to the top then scramble/jump/climb the last bits around the perimeter to take in the amazing views of the river, villages and countryside surrounding this heap of bricks.

Lastly the 2nd biggest bell in the world made for the unfinished temple. Actually the biggest is in Moscow but it sits on the ground so ours is the biggest you can dong with the wooden mallet so there. Finally a very pleasant boat journey down the peaceful waters of the Irrawaddy.

The boat moored near our hotel but alongside 6 boats out from the shore so we had an interesting boat hopping adventure across very narrow planks with wobbly hand held bamboo poles for rails in darkness over muddy water between the boats. Nobody fell in. Time for dinner now, Good night all, John

Myanmar day 2 dinner

Myanmar day 2 dinner After blogging, I go to the top floor restauant. It is in semi-darkness, no diners, they are clearing up. 'Are you closing?' 'No sir' and I am directed to the open air roof area, also dark and devoid of diners. 'Are you closing?' 'No sir, please sit here' I sit as told and order a glass of red wine and chefs special rice with mixed meats (leftovers?)from one of the four waiters attending to my every need. Then I am treated to my very own puppet show, a lovely lady making dancers, horses and clowns jerk about to piped Burmese music and singing. Loved it, clapped alone at the end of each performance, rewarded with a beaming smile from the lovely lady. Good food, OK wine, wonderful entertainment. A great end to the day. Good night all, John

Myanmar day 2

Myanmar day 2 Up at 4am, breakfast in room, depart hotel 5am, flight to Mandaley 6.30 am. On the road from the airport to the city, we see plantations of chili, peanuts, mangos and bananas. Grown specially for export to China are various fruits. Also Rice, pulses to India, teak and rubber are major export earners. And now too, they have offshore gas. Mandalay was created in 1857 by the King to celebrate Mandalay Hill, considered sacred by followers of Buddha. The royal family moved into the palace at the centre of the city, and a grid system around it allocated areas to various trades, weaving, shoe-making etc.. First we visit Mahamuni Pagoda, home to one of the country's most revered Buddha images. There is over 100 people paying their respects and praying to Buddha here, a continuously changing throng as more arrive to replace those leaving, there must be thousands every day.

Throughout South East Asia, this religion is alive and integral to all its followers' daily lives, seemingly in contrast to our western churches. We visit a traditional woodcarving craft shop, row upon row of beautiful pieces all hand made (although I did notice the early stages of wood-shaping being assisted with a Black and Decker drill). Also here the ladies are hand-sewing exquisite tapestries. Striking colours, beautiful designs.

Next the Gold Leaf workshop, much bashing of tiny pieces of gold to flatten them into thin leaf which is then applied to cover ornaments. Very labour-intensive with beautiful end products to sell to locals and tourists alike. Now LUNCH, Burmese Chan style in a basic local restaurant, tasty. I have decided I like Myanmar, mainly because I am taller than almost everyone here. This afternoon we get to see the palace. The rebuilt in the 1970s palace. (The original had been used as HQ by the Japanese and so was bombed to rubble and matchwood by the allies.) The modern painted corrugated roofing detracted slightly from the overall effect but still well worth seeing. In the late 19th century, a new King moved one building to another part of the city and donated it to become the Shwenandaw Monastery for the local monks. The building was the old Kings bed-chamber in which the new King saw his fathers ghost wandering about, and this apparently generous gesture ensured that the new King never had to enter that building again. Ironically, because it was moved, it is the only building to survive. We visited it but no sign of the old King's ghost today.

Next, the worlds biggest book, 729 pages of Buddhist scriptures, each on a marble slab, each with its own little house in the Kuthodaw Pagoda complex. Impressive. Lastly to the top of Mandalay Hill itself. There are 1,729 steps from bottom to top, but we don't see any of them as we take the escalator. We see the sun set over the city and the Irrawaddy River. Magnificent.

There is a temple up here too, and an air of peace and tranquility. Best wishes to you all, John

13 Oct 2012 Myanmar

13 Oct 2012 Myanmar Well here I am in our hotel in Yangon (Rangoon) , Myanmar (Burma)on day 1 of the tour. Apart from briefly meeting the rest of the World Expeditions group and guide (Kinky!), I have nothing to report so far. I will try to get on the internet as the tour progresses but being Myanmar I suspect there may be a few times when it is not available. But you can be sure I will catch up! All the Best to you all, John

27 to 30 sept 2012 Phuket

27 to 30 Sept 2012 Phuket Hello all, I must correct my mistake in the previous blog, with apologies to John, who is in fact the Aussie tug boat operator off Western Australia and to Paul, who is a Kiwi working in WA as an Agricultural Contractor driving heavy machinery. I was sat in the bar a few evenings ago chatting to a very large and fit Aussie Jason who was telling me about spending some of his very generous leave time in Johanesburg helping out in a home for orphaned and abandoned kids. He is a prison officer in Australia with long service which gets him lots of weeks' holiday. He is here with his wife. I didn't realise that old friend Gunter had sat at the counter behind me, an Austrian who spends a lot of time here. I introduced Jason to Gunter as I was about to leave to have my evening meal nearby. Guess what, Gunter is a retired prison officer! So I left them comparing their respective prison and reform systems while I enjoyed my chicken and cashew nut with vegetables and sticky rice thai meal. All the Best to everyone, John

24 to 27 Sept 2012 Phuket

24 to 27 Sept 2012 Phuket Thursday today. Here in Phuket I am relaxing, playing some squash, chatting in the bar. But no beach yet, we have heavy rain, wind and flooded roads. Not in the plan but hey, can't be perfect all the time. I am meeting old and new friends here, Alois the retired Lufthansa pilot now running a Bavarian cafe here, Paul, a tugbout operator off the east coast of Western Australia who works 4 weeks on and 4 off, two Austrians who are in Phuket because it was the first flight available from their home airport, a retired englishman who regales us of his exploits on his 12 month world tour, and Aldo a businessman from Italy who lives here and currently runs a laundry and the squash club, to name a few so far. I am not expecting much to report from here but will let you know if anything interesting occurs. October 11th I fly to Rangoon, Myanmar to start a 12 day tour with World Expeditions. Am hoping to have more to say then! All the Best, John

23 Sept 2012 Lapu Lapu

Sunday today is my last full day here. I fly tomorrow at 12.50 so have to leave Green Gate at 9.45, Grant will drive me to the nearby airport. This morning I swim 1100m and read the book they have lent me here. I only have 24 hours to finish it. Lunchtime Grant takes five of us to ????????????? Hotel, a very upmarket establishment where we all order beef burgers! Grant is right, they are very tasty. We take a look at the pool area, very smart.

Joey has been visiting for a few days now, he has flown here especially to put a tattoo on Grants back. Joey is an artist in great demand, he free-hand draws his pictures on various parts of peoples bodies. Using specialised equipment, he then applies the inks. Grants tattoo is taking 12 hours. Anyone who would like to travel out here for one of Joeys tattoos, please let me know and I will put you in touch. Here is a pic of Grants back part way through. The new tattoo is the black Samurai Warier astride his horse. Joey is in the background.

I walk 45 minutes to the mall to buy these amazing cupcakes, chocolate ones that melt in your mouth, they are sold out! So, empty-handed, I get a tricycle back to Green Gate, a very bumpy ride but chat with the driver, at least 70, about our respective families. These roads are teeming with local people going about their daily lives in this sadly run-down area.

This evening I am invited to join Violet, Maricel, ChaCha, May and Lorna at the disco across the field. (Joey is still working on Grant). We dance for two hours along with about 200 locals, all having a good time. A great evening, thanks girls.

1am now as I finish this blog, next I have to pack! Goodnight all, John

22 Sept 2012 Lapu Lapu

22 Sept 2012 Lapu Lapu Saturday today and after my swim (1000m) I am having my hair cut. This takes all the rest of the morning as I also buy some plums. This afternoon we have some fun in the pool, I don't know why the others can balance on the blow-up boat and I cannot. Jackson thinks it's very funny.

Then a bar-b-q by the pool. Perfect. This evening, Grant, Violet and a group of their friends invite me to join them in a night out at MO2 in central Cebu City. It is outdoors, there are two live bands and we have a great evening chatting and dancing until 2am. Back in my room at Green Gate, now 3am, I hear the local fiesta in full swing. The wall of speakers in a field 100 metres away provides booming music for another hour, in harmony (not) with squealing pigs as they are slaughtered by the roadside, in preparations for the next day's feasting. Unreal. Goodnight all.

21 Sept 2012 Lapu Lapu

21 Sept 2012 Lapu Lapu Friday up at 4am for 4.30 breakfast, 4.45 taxi and 6am two hour ferry to Bohol Island. This time everything goes to plan and the three of us are met by driver Ray, pre-arranged by Grant. First we have a long drive to the Chocolate Hills in the centre of Bohol. There are 1260 of these dome shaped hills that are lumps of coral from when this area was lying in shallow seas thousands of years ago. Volcanic eruptions created the hills. Rain eroded them and created swamps then plains around them. The soil on the hills never achieved sufficient thickness for anything other than grass to grow on them. In the dry season, the grass turns brown. Hence Chocolate Hills. I am very disappointed. I love chocolate and thought there would be loads of it here. Maybe even chocolate mines. But there is no chocolate, so I eat one of my apples instead.

On the way back down, we drive through a 3000ha man-made mahogany forest, planted by boy scouts and girl guides. It's traditional to stand in the middle of the road for a photo here. Not a good idea anywhere, but especially in the Philippines.

We visit a butterfly farm where there are many beautifully coloured species. Our guide shows us some trans-gender butterflies. One wing has male colouring, the other female, he calls them lady-boys. Later I pet a giant caterpillar closely watched by its angry mother.

Next we visit the Tarsier Reserve in Loboc. These monkeys are the smallest primate in the world. There are 113 of them in this 16ha wooded enclosure and we see about ten, none of them moving, just sitting quietly on a branch. We can got very close to them for photos. Remembering John Cleese and the parrot, I ask the keeper if these monkeys are stuffed and nailed to the trees. No, she said, they are sleeping.

A short drive further, and we get to walk across a very dodgy bamboo bridge over a raging torrent some distance below. I don't like heights but inexplicably, I can handle then better when over water. We meet an American gentleman who wins the worst dressed tourist prize. we chatted and I liked him. Hans didn't. Here he is on the bridge with his girlfriend whose hat has just blown into the river. He didn't jump in after it. Neither did I.

Now at last we go for lunch, on a boat as it chugs up the river and back. A buffet, OK, but followed by some delicious brown sweet soft tartlets, I sneak five of them including the last one, maybe more than my share but the last group to board were late eating their main course so I managed to go back to the table a few times before they could get to them. There was a bunch of traditional singer/dancers on a pontoon half way up the river, very entertaining. This is s video but I don't know if it will work on the blog, please do let me know.

Next more Python, a real one, not Monty but Prudence. She is 250 kilos and 26 feet. A meal is one live pig or two goats. She has never eaten a keeper or tourist.

Next Baclayon Church, built of coral in 1724.

Lastly a statue of the Spanish making peace with the local chief just before they knocked seven bells out of each other in a viscous war.

r A long trip back followed by dinner with Hans and Lily in Diones. A very enjoyable day. Bye for now, John

20 Sept 2012 Lapu Lapu

20 Sept 2012 Lapu Lapu Thursday today, I plan a quiet day ahead of a long day tomorrow. 900 swim, sleep by the pool, read book in the morning. This afternoon I walk and take some photos, including the Electronics Repair Shop, Yangs Eatery and Stinkfree Laundry.......

I have just set the alarm at 3.45 for 4.30 breakfast, 4.45 taxi and 6am ferry to Bohol Island. Wish us luck on our second attempt. All the Best, John

19 Sept 2012 Lapu Lapu

19 Sept 2012 Lapu Lapu Wednesday, up at 4.15am for 5 0'clock breakfast, 5.30 taxi and 7am ferry to Bohol Island. But the taxi is half hour late and at the docks we drive from gate to gate and pier to pier and cannot find the ticket office. The three of us decide to buy tickets for a Friday 6am sailing in an office that we do find, then we return to Green Gate. OK sometimes plans go awry. Back at Green Gate I have another breakfast, an 800 swim and a sleep by the pool. And I read my book. I like this Guest House very much, everyone is very kind and helpful with drinks on call and excellent meals. I have experienced this level of service before so I don't know what it is that makes it so particularly pleasant and relaxing here. Below is a photo taken by Grant of Violet and their staff.

This afternoon in a local department store, Violet and Maricel choose two dresses for Grace and Grant helps me pick out some clothes for Leon and Harry. Violet has two boys and Maricel only has piglets to look after so I thought they might enjoy helping me buy dresses. I reward us all with drinks in a restaurant called Booobs. I have mango juice, I love it. Back at Green Gate, it is Chicken Cordon Bleu with mixed salad and rice for dinner. Perfect. Here is a pic showing Violet and some of the staff playing with Matthew, and Jackson in the background at the table where I eat my meals. It is delightful to sit here, in what is effectively the living area for the family and staff.

And here I am in the same family area with Grant, Violet, Jackson and Matthew

Best wishes to all of you and your families, John

18 Sept 2012 Lapu Lapu

18 Sept 2012 Lapu Lapu Tuesday morning I am swimming 700m, lying by the pool and reading my book. This afternoon I am walking down the road I described earlier. It is Pajac Abuno, a long minor road on Mactan Island. It is rutted from being dug up for a pipe and never resurfaced, it is lined by tiny shack-like shops and dwellings, and it is famous world over.

What can this road be famous all over the world for manufacturing? Here is a clue, the middle photo is of one of their clients shaking hands with the owner of the biggest factory here, Alegre. I have a tour of the factory and watch these incredibly skilled guys working with local woods to make the beautiful end products they are famous for. There are five factories and about 20 specialist shops on this beaten up road.

This is Apl.De.Ap, Black Eyed Peas and he is buying a guitar. The Alegre factory showrooms and the nearby small shops and other factories are filled with shiny guitars, ukuleles, banjos and mandolins, all individually handmade, various sizes and qualities and prices. I was impressed, so this must be heaven for musicians. Alison T, I hope you can visit here one day.

The guitar-making industry in Lapu-Lapu City started when the Spanish friars assigned in Cebu needed to repair the guitars they were using. Instead of waiting for the guitars to arrive from Mexico, they commissioned the townspeople of Opon village in Mactan Island to make new guitars and repair the existing guitars they had; thus began the guitar industry in Cebu. Typical woods used for Cebu-made guitars are soft and hard woods like jackfruit, narra, black wood ebony, and imported woods. Some guitars have simple designs while others have decorations of intricate designs or inlaid with shell crafts. The guitars made in Lapu-Lapu are all hand-made and people who want personalized guitars can order them custom-made according to their own design requirements.

This evening, after a couple of beers and a game of pool at Bellas, I have a perfectly cooked Blue Marlin steak with mixed vegetables and rice, while some of the girls play a chaotic game of cards. Now I am going to bed because I have to be up for a 5am breakfast and 5.30 departure for a day trip. All the Best, John

17 Sept 2012 Lapu Lapu

17 Sept 2012 Lapu Lapu Monday today and two milestones........it is two weeks already since I flew from Heathrow and this is my 200th blog since I started my travels in 2006. A 'family' morning, I am invited to join Grant, Violet, Charina, Jackson and Matthew on a shopping trip. The boys behave very well and are rewarded with an ice cream.

This afternoon I swim 600m, laze by the pool, read my book, go for a walk. I am very relaxed and happy here.

Belly pork for dinner. How does she do it. Delicious. We chat for a while, including with yet another friend/relation of Violets who is staying here, I think this place provides a welcoming home from home for many, then I have another early night and fall asleep reading my book. All the Best to everyone, John

16 Sept 2012 Lapu Lapu

16 Sept 2012 Lapu Lapu Sunday Grant takes me, Violet and her cousin Charina 17 to the spot where, in 1521, Spanish invader Ferdinano Magellan was killed by Lapu Lapu, chief of Mactan Island, and his tribesmen. There is a monument and plaques commemorating the event. Also there is a big wall painting showing Ferdie and his men wearing pantaloons and being slain in the shallow waters of the beach. One of the plaques informs us that one of Ferdies ships, the Victoria under the command of Juan Sebastian Elcano, sailed from Cebu on 1st May 1521 and anchored at San Lucar of Barrameda on 6th September 1522. This completed the first circumnavigation of the earth. Can anyone tell me where Barrameda is?

Here at one of the small market stalls I buy a lovely present for Faye. We also go to a mall where I buy some little presents for Ruby and Amber. Finally Violet leads us to a fresh seafood shop where she chooses and buys 4 kilos of live crabs. Back at Green Gate she cooks them along with mixed vegetables wrapped in palm leaf and red (purple) rice and we have a delicious lunch. This place is heaven. After a lazy hour chatting after lunch, I have my daily swim. I have kept my promise to myself and Anne and increased the distance each day, by 100m. Today I swim 500. Is this OK Anne? This evening I am collected by Jens and his friend Clive and we go for a quiet drink in a bar suggested by Clive. Clive comes from Tewkesbury, worked for MAN in Germany for 37 years and now lives on Mactan Island where he loves to dive, often with Jens. In the bar, we cannot hear ourselves talk, but the music is good, a 6 piece band with three singers one of whom, a girl, has an amazing voice. A great evening but I drink one beer too many for me. Fortunately I am fully in control and do not fall out of the car when we return to Green Gate. However one of the staff girls asks me if I am drunk, I don't know why she asks, I am fine and perfectly incoherent. I think I'll go to bed now, goodnight. John

15 Sept 2012 Lapu Lapu

15 Sept 2012 Lapu Lapu Lapu Lapu is the city on the island of Mactan which is a part of Cebu Province and right next to the main Cebu island. It is Saturday today, and after an extended breakfast chatting to Grant, Violet and their staff, I take a taxi to Crimson Resort on Mactan Island. This is a 5* hotel with rooms, villas, conference facilities, pools and its own beach and dock. I pay twelve pounds for the day and use the gym and pool, walk along the beach listening to the live band, and finish off lying on the most comfortable lounger ever. Very nice thank you Crimson. In the evening another superb home-cooked meal. We eat in an outside covered dining area next to the courtyard, the photo is the view. Violet is the chief cook and her sauces are to die for.

Later we are joined by Hans and his girlfriend who also stay here, Casey and Kendra a married couple from the States who are visiting Grant, plus Jens Hofmann a dive-master. Grant has arranged for Jens to meet Casey and Kendra and organize a dive for them (you can look him up if you are into diving). Jens talks about sharks and fish and octupussies and corals and wrecks until midnight, we are entranced by his knowledge and experience. Goodnight all. John (ps, I'm not sure whether the photo will publish, do let me know!)

14 Sept 2012 Lapu Lapu

14 Sept 2012 Lapu Lapu Friday morning Grant, the Guest House joint boss with wife Violet, kindly takes me downtown in his car to a money exchange booth where I get a good rate for my pounds. The booth is in a bustling complex of tiny market stalls surrounding a supermarket. Looks to be a mutually beneficial arrangement for the big and the small. Grant buys some dvds. We chat with some of the stallholders. All very relaxed and friendly. Then a Starbucks iced raspberry coffee. Interesting. I enjoy chatting with Grant in the car. He is rural Canadian, the manager of a large call centre here in Lapu Lapu, employing 1600 Philippine people who he describes as the most hard working dedicated workers he has encountered in his extensive working travels. Also interesting. Lunch, pasta, chicken and vegetables, excellent. I linger, chatting with Violet and the girls who work for her in the Guest House. She and Grant have two children, Jackson 3 and Matthew 1, they are playing all around us. Just such a very pleasant place to be. This afternoon I walk to the harbour again. On the way a bunch of early teenagers invite me to play basketball with them on an improvised court on waste-ground. Tempting because I am taller than most of them. But I decline, with thanks. I am intending to book an island-hopping trip with Kon-Tiki. But they only do groups, or I can pay for the whole boat trip for just me. I don't think so. Next door is the Dive booking centre where I can join a dive trip to one island as a passenger. $69. Not sure about this either so leave it for now. So next I walk to Hadsan Beach. 50 pesos entrance, must be good, about 75p. Hadsan is a pretty inlet, with stone walls and piers, and divers' skiffs moored in the harbour and on the beaches. There are chalets, divers' shops and restaurants. At the end of one pier is a little village of palm thatched shelters with tables and benches for picnics and bar-b-ques. A delightful setting. But neglected and seriously run-down, this potential paradise is deserted. There is nobody to be seen except a couple of sleeping boatmen. Pity. I walk back to Green Gate and have the most amazing baby back ribs so tender and beautifully cooked, wow I have definitely struck gold booking here. Early night, Good night to you all, John

13 Sept 2012 Lapu Lapu

13 Sept 2012 Lapu Lapu So here I am in Lapu Lapu, Cebu, Philippines. The Green Gate B&B is an old house full of character, high ceilings, first floor balcony overlooking the sitting room, magnificent staircase, hardwood trimmings everywhere, a hotel straight out of a classic Poirot setting for upper class mystery. Tomorrow I will look for the aspidistra. The outside is patios, palm trees, tropical flowering trees and bushes, all slightly running wild. The swimming pool is another one of those curvy shapes with no lines on the bottom, but I can swim in it so am very grateful for that. The water is very clean. I did 20 wiggly lengths X 10m today and fully intend to increase that every day. We'll see. Anne Ellis please note. Curiously my bathroom has a shelved cupboard filled with valuable looking colourful ceramic pots and things including a large white duck. I am not touching anything in case it cwacks. From my bedroom window I can see a lake on the land next door. Now I see it's wasteland where a recent shower has left a pond for shoeless children to paddle and play in. This afternoon I walk up and down the road to stretch my legs and have a look around. There are many small general stores, mobile phone shops, fresh fruit displays, an electronics centre, and my favourite - 'The Lovlie Store' selling sweets. All small shack-like structures with corrugated tin roofs mostly in dilapidated condition. Behind are hundreds/thousands of dwellings in similar or worse state. They are, like the road, falling to bits. Green Gate is an oasis in a sea of urban poverty. There are other oases. A development of smart new villas in a gated compound. A small business park also recently built and security protected. And Wombats Womb Cafe. But these are incongruous and isolated. Along this one long disintegrating road that leads to the harbour, there is a large community of people struggling to provide the next meal. But they are happy, today at least. There is a festival, centered on a church near the harbour, and everyone, especially the children, is excited. I am wearing my white polo shirt with red, green, yellow, blue and black stripes, my 'combat' shorts and Chesham Prep. Reception Class white sun-hat, and hope I don't look too much like a tourist. But I think they know. I get lots of smiles and hellos and 'how are you's as I pass by, a lone European in a throng of Asian people. Yes I have to be careful as always, but these people I saw today made me feel humble. Take care everyone, and reflect on your worries compared to theirs'. John