New Year's Eve 2008, Chiang Mai 6.45pm local time, 7 hours ahead of UK.
Planned an early night last night after 3 flights and 27 hour journey but it didn't happen. Invited to NYE party at tour company HQ (held 1 night early, who cares why) by guide Pon. Beer, karaoke, thai food just handed to you (very tasty but can be dangerously hot, nearly called the fire brigade after one kebab), dancing (sort of), lovely people - happy, friendly, generous and good fun to be with. Just have to occasionally chuck 20 baht in a collection dish for beer. Bed - 1am!
Today (is it Wednesday?) collected at 8am for tour with guides from party including Pon. First to Orchid Farm, beautiful blooms, also butterflies but not many of them this time of year. Next we were driven deep into the jungle for an elephant ride along the banks of a small stream, about an hour with regular stops for our asian carrier to consume huge chunks of the vegetation, got some good photos, will try to send some to you but no time today. Fed her with bunch of bananas at the end. The drivers of the elephants (mahmoot?) are mostly from Burma/Myanmar and speak a completely different language to my thai friends. After this, an hour's trek through the jungle to meet our 4x4.
Next I get to drive a pair of oxen pulling a cart containing another 3 tourists, I guess for about a kilometre along the road. I think the beasts had done it before so didn't need to do much thrashing and pulling with the reigns, but an interesting experience none the less.
Then lunch provided by a local family in their porch, very fresh pineapple, plus a spaghetti dish containing I know not what but very tasty and mercifully not spicy.
Another longish drive took us to a river bank and into a rubber raft - 4 of us plus the 'captain'. After donning life jacket and crash helmet and receiving instructions on where and how to sit, how to paddle forward and backward and stop paddling, and the crash position, we were launched into this torrent of white water. Great fun. Got wet of course. For last section of river journey, we transferred to a flat bamboo raft controlled by man with pole on a more sedate part of the river. Got even wetter here. Must have been on the river about an hour.
On the way back, stopped briefly at an establishment that makes paper out of elepnant poo but it was closed so sorry, no samples to bring back.
Now 7.25pm, being collected at 8 o'clock for NYE in a nearby bar. Could be a long night. Will report again when I surface.
All the Best,
John
Wednesday, December 31, 2008
Monday, December 29, 2008
Chiang Mai and Malaysia
Hello all, it's me again. Just started 6 week trip, now in Chiang Mai northern city of Thailand with lots of history and elephants. Arrived only a few hours ago so nothing to report yet. Malaysia in late January to mid-Feb = Kuala Lumpar then East Malaysia (= north Borneo) based in Sandakan to visit oranutans, proboscis monkeys and egg laying turtles.
In between will be a spell on the beach in Phuket. Keep in touch, all the best,
John
In between will be a spell on the beach in Phuket. Keep in touch, all the best,
John
Thursday, October 09, 2008
Peru, Bolivia, Brazil Sat 4 Oct - Thurs 9 Oct 08
Peru, Bolivia, Brazil Sat 4 Oct - Thurs 9 Oct 08
Here is last report for this trip.
People here in Porto Seguro are exceptionally friendly, lots of hugs and kisses on both cheeks when greeting and parting (except man to man = handshake and fist-touching and occasional hug). Everyone consistantly happy, smiling, laughing at every opportunity, lots of music, mostly brazillian (rather than pop or rock), lambada/folksey/bluesy, people dancing in the street or restaurant, great atmosphere.
Had hectic last few days here with friends made at Luis restaurant.
Saturday evening - a riotous birthday party in a village inland from Porto Seguro, driven (careered) there with 6 of us in fiesta size car, huge welcome by lovely lady celebrating birthday, several dozen people in back yard, much beer, music and dancing.
Sunday a 50k bus trip with Nete and Sandra to Eunapolis, a large inland town, where met at bus station by Nete's brother = Sandras fiance for bbq at mamas, went on all afternoon/evening various people calling by and joining in, very relaxed easy going culture here, met loads of people, great day.
Monday evening after meal at Luis, came across very loud rock concert in new tourist square just opened, all ages watching/listening /dancing/drinking/eating, great atmosphere.
Tuesday a quiet day, excellent lunch, fish, hot vegetables, mash potato, salad and a beer, ready to start return journey on a full stomach. After lots of sad farewells, caught bus at 7pm from Porto Seguro to Salvador, then 3 flights via Sao Paulo and Madrid to arrive Heathrow today (Thursday) 11am, collected by Philip and Faye (blooming at 23? weeks), so here I am home again in Bovingdon.
A fantastic 5 and a half weeks. Enjoyed all of it. Met some wonderful people in Peru, Bolivia, Rio and Porto Seguro. Saw some great sights, especially in the trek on the Andes inca trail. Thanks for sharing it with me, hope you enjoyed reading about it.
Until the next trip, All the Best to Everyone,
John
Here is last report for this trip.
People here in Porto Seguro are exceptionally friendly, lots of hugs and kisses on both cheeks when greeting and parting (except man to man = handshake and fist-touching and occasional hug). Everyone consistantly happy, smiling, laughing at every opportunity, lots of music, mostly brazillian (rather than pop or rock), lambada/folksey/bluesy, people dancing in the street or restaurant, great atmosphere.
Had hectic last few days here with friends made at Luis restaurant.
Saturday evening - a riotous birthday party in a village inland from Porto Seguro, driven (careered) there with 6 of us in fiesta size car, huge welcome by lovely lady celebrating birthday, several dozen people in back yard, much beer, music and dancing.
Sunday a 50k bus trip with Nete and Sandra to Eunapolis, a large inland town, where met at bus station by Nete's brother = Sandras fiance for bbq at mamas, went on all afternoon/evening various people calling by and joining in, very relaxed easy going culture here, met loads of people, great day.
Monday evening after meal at Luis, came across very loud rock concert in new tourist square just opened, all ages watching/listening /dancing/drinking/eating, great atmosphere.
Tuesday a quiet day, excellent lunch, fish, hot vegetables, mash potato, salad and a beer, ready to start return journey on a full stomach. After lots of sad farewells, caught bus at 7pm from Porto Seguro to Salvador, then 3 flights via Sao Paulo and Madrid to arrive Heathrow today (Thursday) 11am, collected by Philip and Faye (blooming at 23? weeks), so here I am home again in Bovingdon.
A fantastic 5 and a half weeks. Enjoyed all of it. Met some wonderful people in Peru, Bolivia, Rio and Porto Seguro. Saw some great sights, especially in the trek on the Andes inca trail. Thanks for sharing it with me, hope you enjoyed reading about it.
Until the next trip, All the Best to Everyone,
John
Friday, October 03, 2008
Peru, Bolivia, Brazil Fri 26 Sept - Fri 3 Oct 08
Peru, Bolivia, Brazil Fri 26 Sept - Fri 3 Oct 08
Having a very pleasant time in Porto Seguro. Everyone very friendly and helpful. Weather poor for first few days and got a bit bored but now sunny with a pleasant breeze so spending a lot of time in and around the hotel pool and I have found a great restaurant. Luis is the proprieter, he speaks quite good english (a rareity here) and he is a really nice guy, very helpful as are his wife and staff. Had a few meals there and more than a few beers. Great music too, I think Luis has found the Laura Nyro of Brazil, she sings solo with a guitar on Sunday evenings, really good. Other evenings there are DVDs on a big screen of Brazillian music and dancing, entrancing stuff. Met some interesting people in the restaurant, Nete and her sister-in-law to be Sandra and a bunch of their friends, and Kurt who is a property broker working this area.
Spent yesterday on the beach with Nete and Sandra, waiter service so had a few beers, very pleasant and relaxing day.
Yesterday evening Luis took me with a group of customers to Lambada, this is an entrance controlled room with dance floor + bar, mostly but not all young people having a great time, loud brazillian music and, wow, the dancing was wild, bodies flying around the dance floor whirling and spinning, technical stuff it looked to me. Great atmosphere. Bit late getting back to hotel!
I see Laura is about to hit you (UK), not too bad I hope, it looks as if you´ve already had some cool breezy weather according to CNN. CNN and a film channel the only english TV here. I have watched quite a lot of CNN due to the goings on in US, but oh it is horrendously repetitive, continually self promoting itself and special reports to come etc etc. The actual news consumes a tiny fraction of its time. Never mind, its better than no news.
Looking forward to seeing everyone in UK again,
Probably only one more report at end of hol.
Take care everyone, All the Best,
John
Having a very pleasant time in Porto Seguro. Everyone very friendly and helpful. Weather poor for first few days and got a bit bored but now sunny with a pleasant breeze so spending a lot of time in and around the hotel pool and I have found a great restaurant. Luis is the proprieter, he speaks quite good english (a rareity here) and he is a really nice guy, very helpful as are his wife and staff. Had a few meals there and more than a few beers. Great music too, I think Luis has found the Laura Nyro of Brazil, she sings solo with a guitar on Sunday evenings, really good. Other evenings there are DVDs on a big screen of Brazillian music and dancing, entrancing stuff. Met some interesting people in the restaurant, Nete and her sister-in-law to be Sandra and a bunch of their friends, and Kurt who is a property broker working this area.
Spent yesterday on the beach with Nete and Sandra, waiter service so had a few beers, very pleasant and relaxing day.
Yesterday evening Luis took me with a group of customers to Lambada, this is an entrance controlled room with dance floor + bar, mostly but not all young people having a great time, loud brazillian music and, wow, the dancing was wild, bodies flying around the dance floor whirling and spinning, technical stuff it looked to me. Great atmosphere. Bit late getting back to hotel!
I see Laura is about to hit you (UK), not too bad I hope, it looks as if you´ve already had some cool breezy weather according to CNN. CNN and a film channel the only english TV here. I have watched quite a lot of CNN due to the goings on in US, but oh it is horrendously repetitive, continually self promoting itself and special reports to come etc etc. The actual news consumes a tiny fraction of its time. Never mind, its better than no news.
Looking forward to seeing everyone in UK again,
Probably only one more report at end of hol.
Take care everyone, All the Best,
John
Wednesday, September 24, 2008
Peru, Bolivia, Brazil Mon 22 - Thurs 25 Sept 08
Peru, Bolivia, Brazil Mon 22 - Thurs 25 Sept 08
Had a quiet last few days in Rio. Priority Monday was to book bus from Rio to Porto Seguro which is a resort in Bahia region north of Rio. 18 hour journey so decided to go overnight from Wed evening.
Went to Rio ´´Carnival of Culture´´, young people performing on a stage - some ballet and traditional brazillian dancing, very good.
Spent some time on Copacabana beach, very relaxing and pleasant.
Must mention reception staff at Atlantic Copacabana Hotel, really helpful, brilliant.
Wed evening got to bus station by taxi OK, took 50 mins, very bad traffic here. Very efficient at bus station, luxurious bus, slept most of the way.
Now Thursday and installed in hotel in Porto Seguro, right next to sea front and main area of town, here for 2 weeks so should be good. Nice room, helpful people. Bigger pool but a funny shape as they do in hotels. Nothing exciting planned so will be a few days to next blog.
Take care everyone, All the Best,
John
Had a quiet last few days in Rio. Priority Monday was to book bus from Rio to Porto Seguro which is a resort in Bahia region north of Rio. 18 hour journey so decided to go overnight from Wed evening.
Went to Rio ´´Carnival of Culture´´, young people performing on a stage - some ballet and traditional brazillian dancing, very good.
Spent some time on Copacabana beach, very relaxing and pleasant.
Must mention reception staff at Atlantic Copacabana Hotel, really helpful, brilliant.
Wed evening got to bus station by taxi OK, took 50 mins, very bad traffic here. Very efficient at bus station, luxurious bus, slept most of the way.
Now Thursday and installed in hotel in Porto Seguro, right next to sea front and main area of town, here for 2 weeks so should be good. Nice room, helpful people. Bigger pool but a funny shape as they do in hotels. Nothing exciting planned so will be a few days to next blog.
Take care everyone, All the Best,
John
Monday, September 22, 2008
Peru, Bolivia, Brazil Wed 17 - Sun 21 Sept 08
Peru, Bolivia, Brazil Wed 17 - Sun 21 Sept 08
Hello again, here I am reporting from Copacabana beach, Rio de Janeiro
Wed 17 evening still in La Paz, went out to meal and show. Thought I had ordered lamb kebab but it turned out to be llama on a stick, very tasty but a bit chewey maybe it was one of the llamas that carried our packs on the trek, maybe not, buffet excellent though. And the show, wow, started off with 2 guys on fiddles one big one tiny originally made out of armadillo shell beautiful sound very good musicians; next a bigger band adding drums, multiple bamboo things they blow down and a flute player, about 16, brilliant. Excellent show so far but next the dancers, wow, lots of colour and fast movement, 3 girls and I think there were some blokes too, lots of different flambouyant costumes, all very entertaining.
Thurs 18 up early, 3 flights, La Paz to Lima, bit of a rush in Lima to catch connection to Sao Paulo, collect bag, check in again, long wait and qs there for final flight to Rio, bag arrived OK, then taxi to hotel, no problems.
Fri 19 quiet day, got some clothes washed, walked along promenade of Copacabana beach, lots going on incl football, volleyball etc., what a great place. Very easy to walk around here, most of streets are one way, the traffic stops at red lights and pedestrians cross on green pelicans. Quite disciplined unlike Peru and Bolivia where adherence to rules of the road appear to be voluntary. Looked everywhere for guinea pigs, couldn´t find even one, missed out in Peru and Bolivia where they are a delicacy, they have them running around their houses, (mostly one room per family) and cook them for special occasions but none in Copacabana so probably won´t get to eat one now. Never mind maybe they´ll let me look after one from CPS in the summer hols.
Atlantica Copacabana hotel has tiny pool on roof so had a swim there, very pleasant in this hot weather. (the sea is very rough, slopes down steeply with awkward currents and is slightly polluted so decided to give it a miss dont want to drown or worse have tummy upset half way thru hol)
Sat 20 spent some time on beach today, very nice views all around I dont know how some of these girls cover so much with so little. Another swim in pool and booked all day trip tomorrow, morning to Corcovado (Christ the Redeemer monument) and Sugar Loaf in the afternoon.
All the Best to Rick and Lucinda, hope they had a great day.
Sun 21 Morning trip thru Rio, sharing bus with people from Columbia, Equador, US, London, India, China, Argentina, Sweden and Beirut; saw some sights incl iconic Maracana Stadium, built to hold 200,000 for 1958? world cup, now all seating for 90,000+. Next up steep switch-back hills thru favellas (poor residential areas) then Tijuca Forest (lots of trees). minibuses, lift, escalators and steps finally get us to base of monument. It´s huge and imposing giving a feeling of awe when standing right under it. Fantastic views of Rio all around. Met and chatted with Neil from India (now living in Oman), a world traveller on steel busines and Jo from Kent attending a therapists conference in Brazillia. Then to lunch, talked football with Neil and couple from Argentina. Loads of food, tried everything, no idea what some of it was but all very tasty, think there was some suchi, chefs came round with chunks of beef on skewers prizing bits off onto your plate if you wanted it, each skewer had number referencing cut of animal to diagram on place mat, brilliant stuff.
Time to confess, on way up to Corcovado saw Sugar Loaf cable car dangling in mid-air so exchanged Sugar Loaf afternoon trip for evening football match in Maracana Stadium. This proved a good move. Terrific atmosphere inside massive stadium, Flamengo vs Ipatinga, great build up to game, home fans eccstatic with 1 - 0 result. Thoroughly enjoyed the experience of being in this great home of football, host to world cup final in 2014.
A special day.
All the Best to everyone,
John
Hello again, here I am reporting from Copacabana beach, Rio de Janeiro
Wed 17 evening still in La Paz, went out to meal and show. Thought I had ordered lamb kebab but it turned out to be llama on a stick, very tasty but a bit chewey maybe it was one of the llamas that carried our packs on the trek, maybe not, buffet excellent though. And the show, wow, started off with 2 guys on fiddles one big one tiny originally made out of armadillo shell beautiful sound very good musicians; next a bigger band adding drums, multiple bamboo things they blow down and a flute player, about 16, brilliant. Excellent show so far but next the dancers, wow, lots of colour and fast movement, 3 girls and I think there were some blokes too, lots of different flambouyant costumes, all very entertaining.
Thurs 18 up early, 3 flights, La Paz to Lima, bit of a rush in Lima to catch connection to Sao Paulo, collect bag, check in again, long wait and qs there for final flight to Rio, bag arrived OK, then taxi to hotel, no problems.
Fri 19 quiet day, got some clothes washed, walked along promenade of Copacabana beach, lots going on incl football, volleyball etc., what a great place. Very easy to walk around here, most of streets are one way, the traffic stops at red lights and pedestrians cross on green pelicans. Quite disciplined unlike Peru and Bolivia where adherence to rules of the road appear to be voluntary. Looked everywhere for guinea pigs, couldn´t find even one, missed out in Peru and Bolivia where they are a delicacy, they have them running around their houses, (mostly one room per family) and cook them for special occasions but none in Copacabana so probably won´t get to eat one now. Never mind maybe they´ll let me look after one from CPS in the summer hols.
Atlantica Copacabana hotel has tiny pool on roof so had a swim there, very pleasant in this hot weather. (the sea is very rough, slopes down steeply with awkward currents and is slightly polluted so decided to give it a miss dont want to drown or worse have tummy upset half way thru hol)
Sat 20 spent some time on beach today, very nice views all around I dont know how some of these girls cover so much with so little. Another swim in pool and booked all day trip tomorrow, morning to Corcovado (Christ the Redeemer monument) and Sugar Loaf in the afternoon.
All the Best to Rick and Lucinda, hope they had a great day.
Sun 21 Morning trip thru Rio, sharing bus with people from Columbia, Equador, US, London, India, China, Argentina, Sweden and Beirut; saw some sights incl iconic Maracana Stadium, built to hold 200,000 for 1958? world cup, now all seating for 90,000+. Next up steep switch-back hills thru favellas (poor residential areas) then Tijuca Forest (lots of trees). minibuses, lift, escalators and steps finally get us to base of monument. It´s huge and imposing giving a feeling of awe when standing right under it. Fantastic views of Rio all around. Met and chatted with Neil from India (now living in Oman), a world traveller on steel busines and Jo from Kent attending a therapists conference in Brazillia. Then to lunch, talked football with Neil and couple from Argentina. Loads of food, tried everything, no idea what some of it was but all very tasty, think there was some suchi, chefs came round with chunks of beef on skewers prizing bits off onto your plate if you wanted it, each skewer had number referencing cut of animal to diagram on place mat, brilliant stuff.
Time to confess, on way up to Corcovado saw Sugar Loaf cable car dangling in mid-air so exchanged Sugar Loaf afternoon trip for evening football match in Maracana Stadium. This proved a good move. Terrific atmosphere inside massive stadium, Flamengo vs Ipatinga, great build up to game, home fans eccstatic with 1 - 0 result. Thoroughly enjoyed the experience of being in this great home of football, host to world cup final in 2014.
A special day.
All the Best to everyone,
John
Wednesday, September 17, 2008
Peru, Bolivia, Brazil Wed 17 Sept 08
Peru, Bolivia, Brazil Wed 17 Sept 08
Tour of the city of La Paz today.
First to colonial (old) city, including the La Paz ´´Wall St.´´, City Hall and Main Square. Buildings around main sq. incl both houses of government, Senate and Representatives, The Sepulcre of Santa Cruz (more later), a 16th century palace now a museum, and the Cathedral which took 250 years to completion in 1965. The Cathedral´s alter is a scaled down copy of the one in St Peter´s, Rome. One of the Chapels is dedicated to the Madonna of Copacabana. 20 years ago, 93% of the population declared themselves catholic, but now that there is much more religious tolerance and it is no longer the state religion, only 57% are catholic.
In 1953, the indiginous population became citizens, but alcoholism is the worst social plague here. Protestants from Canada and US have put programmes in place that help those addicted, and our guide`s wife also helps these people.
Santa Cruz was the first mixed race hero, his father was a Marquis and his mother one of the last Inca royalty.
Next we visited a section of the city that has been preserved by the city government. It is quite a large area of 16 &17 century spanish houses with narrow streets and lots of history. We fought our way through hordes of schoolkids to a remarkable museum containing ceramics 5th century BC to 12 c AD when the TIWANAKU (this is the correct speling) civilisation disappeared and later. The ceramics from the height of the Tiwanaku period are beautiful and very well made. Also Inca headpieces and many other items made of gold, some 24 carrots which is white gold and very soft. Also a remarkable bowl found on a lake titicaca beach by children estimated to date back to 7th - 6th century BC. This bowl has a snake around the edge and pictures of a Condor and giant frog; but most interestingly and very intriguing to historians, it has a lot of writing around the inside of the bowl that is identical to that found in Assyria, middle east, from the same period. This implies that there was migration or trade between the middle east and south america 600 years BC.
Also in the museum are recepticles for drug taking, probably weeds from the jungle similar to marijuana. The Incas and dynasties before them subjugated their people by freely supplying drugs that kept them dopy and malliable most of the time.
The Incas apparently discovered the wheel but not the axle. I struggled a bit with this piece of information. Why bother to invent the wheel without the axle. Perhaps they all drove around in wheel-barrows.
Next to Killikilli hilltop, 3,600 meters above sea level and 600 above the centre of the city. Killi is a flower. The plural is formed by repeating the word hence lots of these flowers is killikilli. Personally I think geraniums is easier that geraniumgeranium. From Killikilli you get an excellent view of Mount Illimani, 6,500 metres and snow-capped. Beautiful and imposing today in the sunlight. Then to bus again and passed replica of the Lower (underground) Temple of Tiwanaku. Sadly no time to visit the original which is some distance away.
Then we passed by a major development of a Central Park which appears mainly for youth sports and children,s playgrounds. An excellent project. 50% of La Paz population is under 18. (also, 50% is 100% indiginous ie pure indian/pre-spanish) The public university has 70,000 students. There are also 23 private universities. As in Peru, education is high priority here.
They didn´t like MacDonalds here though. Several were opened and then closed. Bolivia is the only country in south america with no MacDonalds.
Next to Moon Valley which is very interesting but nothing like the moon surface and it`s on a hill. Only recently did some french geoligists, by drilling deep down, discover that it is solidified magna from a volcano that never properly erupted. All the volcanos in Bolivia are dead and this might have been the last attempt at an erruption in the area. Will try to post a picture later.
Lastly to the Witches Market. Actually not witches at all, this name was dreamed up for the tourists. It is really a Magicians Market. Lots of amulets and lucky charms that you can get blessed to acheive your worldly wishes.
Now 4.30 (5 hours behind UK) and back in the Hotel Plaza (very nice but a bit chilly, excellent breakfast). Going to show + meal tonight with 6 others from the group. 3 flights tomorrow to get to Rio (La Paz to Lima, Lima to Sau Paulo, S Paulo to Rio. Will report on show from there.
All the Best,
John
Tour of the city of La Paz today.
First to colonial (old) city, including the La Paz ´´Wall St.´´, City Hall and Main Square. Buildings around main sq. incl both houses of government, Senate and Representatives, The Sepulcre of Santa Cruz (more later), a 16th century palace now a museum, and the Cathedral which took 250 years to completion in 1965. The Cathedral´s alter is a scaled down copy of the one in St Peter´s, Rome. One of the Chapels is dedicated to the Madonna of Copacabana. 20 years ago, 93% of the population declared themselves catholic, but now that there is much more religious tolerance and it is no longer the state religion, only 57% are catholic.
In 1953, the indiginous population became citizens, but alcoholism is the worst social plague here. Protestants from Canada and US have put programmes in place that help those addicted, and our guide`s wife also helps these people.
Santa Cruz was the first mixed race hero, his father was a Marquis and his mother one of the last Inca royalty.
Next we visited a section of the city that has been preserved by the city government. It is quite a large area of 16 &17 century spanish houses with narrow streets and lots of history. We fought our way through hordes of schoolkids to a remarkable museum containing ceramics 5th century BC to 12 c AD when the TIWANAKU (this is the correct speling) civilisation disappeared and later. The ceramics from the height of the Tiwanaku period are beautiful and very well made. Also Inca headpieces and many other items made of gold, some 24 carrots which is white gold and very soft. Also a remarkable bowl found on a lake titicaca beach by children estimated to date back to 7th - 6th century BC. This bowl has a snake around the edge and pictures of a Condor and giant frog; but most interestingly and very intriguing to historians, it has a lot of writing around the inside of the bowl that is identical to that found in Assyria, middle east, from the same period. This implies that there was migration or trade between the middle east and south america 600 years BC.
Also in the museum are recepticles for drug taking, probably weeds from the jungle similar to marijuana. The Incas and dynasties before them subjugated their people by freely supplying drugs that kept them dopy and malliable most of the time.
The Incas apparently discovered the wheel but not the axle. I struggled a bit with this piece of information. Why bother to invent the wheel without the axle. Perhaps they all drove around in wheel-barrows.
Next to Killikilli hilltop, 3,600 meters above sea level and 600 above the centre of the city. Killi is a flower. The plural is formed by repeating the word hence lots of these flowers is killikilli. Personally I think geraniums is easier that geraniumgeranium. From Killikilli you get an excellent view of Mount Illimani, 6,500 metres and snow-capped. Beautiful and imposing today in the sunlight. Then to bus again and passed replica of the Lower (underground) Temple of Tiwanaku. Sadly no time to visit the original which is some distance away.
Then we passed by a major development of a Central Park which appears mainly for youth sports and children,s playgrounds. An excellent project. 50% of La Paz population is under 18. (also, 50% is 100% indiginous ie pure indian/pre-spanish) The public university has 70,000 students. There are also 23 private universities. As in Peru, education is high priority here.
They didn´t like MacDonalds here though. Several were opened and then closed. Bolivia is the only country in south america with no MacDonalds.
Next to Moon Valley which is very interesting but nothing like the moon surface and it`s on a hill. Only recently did some french geoligists, by drilling deep down, discover that it is solidified magna from a volcano that never properly erupted. All the volcanos in Bolivia are dead and this might have been the last attempt at an erruption in the area. Will try to post a picture later.
Lastly to the Witches Market. Actually not witches at all, this name was dreamed up for the tourists. It is really a Magicians Market. Lots of amulets and lucky charms that you can get blessed to acheive your worldly wishes.
Now 4.30 (5 hours behind UK) and back in the Hotel Plaza (very nice but a bit chilly, excellent breakfast). Going to show + meal tonight with 6 others from the group. 3 flights tomorrow to get to Rio (La Paz to Lima, Lima to Sau Paulo, S Paulo to Rio. Will report on show from there.
All the Best,
John
Tuesday, September 16, 2008
Peru, Bolivia, Brazil Tues 16 Sept 08
Peru, Bolivia, Brazil Tues 16 Sept 08
Left Copacabana 9.30am, into bus for long drive around Lake Titicaca. Bolivian Guide Antonio (who took us around Copacabana and Cathedral yesterday) excellent, very knowledgable, almost intelectual, very good english. Told us about Tiano culture which was pre-inca and existed for many centuries, high altitude potatos, and uv rays 3x stronger in this area having very damaging effects on plankton in the lake and tourists, and the highest yaght club in the world.
There had been a snowstorm last night, still some snow along sides of road, fresh snow on mountains.
Bolivia gained independance from Spain 183 years ago since when there has been some democratically elected leaders but also lots of dictatorships, military and otherwise. However they have just celebrated 25 years of uninterupted democracy, a record since independance.
Learned more about fish in lake. Kingfish, a bass-like fish, was also introduced. These were even more agressive than the trout, consuming local varieties and trout alike. Hence all trout in lake are now in farms, penned in hundreds of square enclosures and well organised.
Also in the lake are giant frogs, discovered by Jaques Cousteau who became famous decades ago for his underwater filming. These frogs live very deep, are blind and no longer amphibeous, having lost the function of their lungs. Apparently 3 french gastronomic companies got very excited about these giant frogs and wanted to eat them, as the french do. However, being blind, the reproductive cycle is very long, with these frogs spending a lot of time trying to find each other in the deep water to mate, so the supply would quickly dry up and the french abandoned their project.
The lowest temperature recorded in the lake this winter was minus 13 degrees centigrade in July. However the lake never freezes due to evaporation causing a mist over the water.
There are thousands of kilometers of terraces around the lake, but most are no longer worked due to the high labour requirement and better prospects in the growing cities and the tourist business. Productivity has also fallen, presumably due to reduced inputs of labour, nutrients and management of water. The incas used complex systems including capiliarity and osmosis, and were getting 36 tonnes per hectare according to records, this is not much less than in some modern advanced countries. But now around the lake they are only averaging 7 tonnes.
There is a very special island called Sun Island where there are remains of temples built 600 - 400 BC. The Tianco civilisation disappeared around 12th century AD, no-one quite knows why.
The Andes stretch from Alaska to Anarctica. The are 2 arms of the mountain range just here and we drove through the valley between them, an awesome experience.
Crossed the lake at its narrowest point between the big and little lakes, on a passenger ferry which was a very basic boat with just enough room for the 17 of us and lots of water sloshing around under the floor. The bus went across on a pontoon just big enough on a chain pulley system looking very odd sitting barely above the water line in the lake. We all got across safely.
Arrived La Paz which was created in 1548 following a 3 year spat between rival spanish factions after which mother spain ordered that a new city be built called Our Lady of The Peace = La Paz. There were 8 million? streams running into the valley chosen for the city, and the spanish soon noticed the local indians were finding gold in them. This made the new city very popular among spanish tourists of the day. The population today is 1.2 million and it is full, being surrounded by steep hills and mountains. A new extension of the city has grown on top of the surrounding hills whose people are seeking independance from the old city government.
There are 2 main cultures in La Paz, Andean and ex-European, but also asian (mainly japanese and indian) and african. The japanese grow rice and export lots of it, and the asian indians control the digital/photo/stereo sector. A cosmopolitan city, very crowded and busy, La Paz is also the seat of national government. The President is based here.
Walked through part of the city this afternoon, in a group led by Claudia. Visited an ATM and shopping centre. Got bored and came back to hotel with part of group to update blog. Not supposed to go out on my own, even in daytime, so can`t just wander about as I like to do sometimes. 6pm now, dinner at 7.30, one couple leaving tomorrow so will be farewells after 18 days.
Take care everybody, All the Best,
John
Left Copacabana 9.30am, into bus for long drive around Lake Titicaca. Bolivian Guide Antonio (who took us around Copacabana and Cathedral yesterday) excellent, very knowledgable, almost intelectual, very good english. Told us about Tiano culture which was pre-inca and existed for many centuries, high altitude potatos, and uv rays 3x stronger in this area having very damaging effects on plankton in the lake and tourists, and the highest yaght club in the world.
There had been a snowstorm last night, still some snow along sides of road, fresh snow on mountains.
Bolivia gained independance from Spain 183 years ago since when there has been some democratically elected leaders but also lots of dictatorships, military and otherwise. However they have just celebrated 25 years of uninterupted democracy, a record since independance.
Learned more about fish in lake. Kingfish, a bass-like fish, was also introduced. These were even more agressive than the trout, consuming local varieties and trout alike. Hence all trout in lake are now in farms, penned in hundreds of square enclosures and well organised.
Also in the lake are giant frogs, discovered by Jaques Cousteau who became famous decades ago for his underwater filming. These frogs live very deep, are blind and no longer amphibeous, having lost the function of their lungs. Apparently 3 french gastronomic companies got very excited about these giant frogs and wanted to eat them, as the french do. However, being blind, the reproductive cycle is very long, with these frogs spending a lot of time trying to find each other in the deep water to mate, so the supply would quickly dry up and the french abandoned their project.
The lowest temperature recorded in the lake this winter was minus 13 degrees centigrade in July. However the lake never freezes due to evaporation causing a mist over the water.
There are thousands of kilometers of terraces around the lake, but most are no longer worked due to the high labour requirement and better prospects in the growing cities and the tourist business. Productivity has also fallen, presumably due to reduced inputs of labour, nutrients and management of water. The incas used complex systems including capiliarity and osmosis, and were getting 36 tonnes per hectare according to records, this is not much less than in some modern advanced countries. But now around the lake they are only averaging 7 tonnes.
There is a very special island called Sun Island where there are remains of temples built 600 - 400 BC. The Tianco civilisation disappeared around 12th century AD, no-one quite knows why.
The Andes stretch from Alaska to Anarctica. The are 2 arms of the mountain range just here and we drove through the valley between them, an awesome experience.
Crossed the lake at its narrowest point between the big and little lakes, on a passenger ferry which was a very basic boat with just enough room for the 17 of us and lots of water sloshing around under the floor. The bus went across on a pontoon just big enough on a chain pulley system looking very odd sitting barely above the water line in the lake. We all got across safely.
Arrived La Paz which was created in 1548 following a 3 year spat between rival spanish factions after which mother spain ordered that a new city be built called Our Lady of The Peace = La Paz. There were 8 million? streams running into the valley chosen for the city, and the spanish soon noticed the local indians were finding gold in them. This made the new city very popular among spanish tourists of the day. The population today is 1.2 million and it is full, being surrounded by steep hills and mountains. A new extension of the city has grown on top of the surrounding hills whose people are seeking independance from the old city government.
There are 2 main cultures in La Paz, Andean and ex-European, but also asian (mainly japanese and indian) and african. The japanese grow rice and export lots of it, and the asian indians control the digital/photo/stereo sector. A cosmopolitan city, very crowded and busy, La Paz is also the seat of national government. The President is based here.
Walked through part of the city this afternoon, in a group led by Claudia. Visited an ATM and shopping centre. Got bored and came back to hotel with part of group to update blog. Not supposed to go out on my own, even in daytime, so can`t just wander about as I like to do sometimes. 6pm now, dinner at 7.30, one couple leaving tomorrow so will be farewells after 18 days.
Take care everybody, All the Best,
John
Monday, September 15, 2008
Peru, Bolivia, Brazil 14,15 Sept 08
Peru, Bolivia, Brazil 14,15 Sepr 08
Sun 14 Left nice Hotel Casa Andina Puno early to board boat accross Lake Titticaca to take 15 of us to 3 inhabited islands. Titticaca is 165 kilometers long, 60k wide, 8,500 sq ks with depths ranging up to 288 meters. This is a lot of water. Originally sea water cut off from the ocean 10,000 years ago, it is now fed by 6 rivers and flows out through one rived that dissipates across Bolivia. It never reaches either the Pacific nor Atlantic Oceon. Some salt remains, but mostly fresh now.
First visit was to a man made island. Driven from Puno centuries ago, indiginous people first lived on boats then developed skills using the reeds to create islands and homes far from the invadors. They cut large sections of underwater reed root which then float to the top. These are dragged to the nearest beach to dry out, then lashed together to form a large area which is towed back out into the lake to the chosen position. Then cut top stalks and leaves of reeds are layed accross, first layer one way second at right angles etc until a floor that can be walked on is formed. The reeds are layered to a higher level for houses and other structures. They have to keep topping up the reeds and every 4 or 5 years, replace the whole island. There are hundreds of these reed islands, each containing 5 to 10 families, all with intricate interlocking cultural and spiritual customs. 526 families, 3,000 people in total. We visited one of these reed islands called Titimarka and were treated to a demonstration of how the islands are made and shown some of the foods and fish they eat. The ladies in out group dressed up in local costume with much giggling and hilarity. A small group of us were invited into one home by one of the three sisters who live in it. She spoke quite good english, attended a high school on land nearby and wants to be trained for the tourist industry. These people are very traditional in their ways and also very switched on. I bought a very nice blanket for Leon, it shows the Aconda, Puma and snake whick are central symbols top the Incas representing the heavens in which the Acondas fly, the ground on wich people and pumas live and the underground inhabited by snakes. I hope he like it.
Next to another reed island, Jachachaywa, where a wedding was underway. Bride and Groom, little bridesmaids, presents including an MFI wardrobe and a band continually playing and clearly in need of the practice. Lots of booze and soft drinks. The celebrations go on for 10 days. The men who drink the most gain some special standing in the newly weds future family.
Then on to Taquile, a large normal rocky island with a very important Headman who has even made an official visit to England. Long walk up to our rooms carring our back-packs. (Puffed a bit). Shown local produce, said to be the best woven and knitted wear in Peru. Only the men are allowed to knit. The do it VERY tightly. A boy is not allowed to get married until his knitted hat can hold water without leaking. The women weave. Beautiful stuff. Had soup for lunch, their soups are amazing, then walked to the top of the island, over 4,100 meters above sea level - more experience of not enough oxygen. Religious site, pre-inca ruins, and pictures of sunset then down for dinner. Soup again, had seconds, then white (rainbow?)trout, very fresh and perfectly cooked, plus local potatos, some a very strange shape, sort of cylindrical and wrinkly. White and brown trout were introduced by americans in 1958, first welcomed by locals but then bigger trout ate all the local fish, they all died out except 2 varieties. Not so pleased now.
Rooms very basic, shared with Ray and Stewart, bed quite comfortable with loads of thick blankets, Rumours of minus 5 degrees at night proved unfounded, it was cold but bearable. No hot water. Slept like a log.
Monday 15th today, 6am breakfast, then boat (saw some ducks) back to Puno. Bought snacks, bunch bannannas, 2 snickers bars, 2 packets buscuits, bottle water, 15 sols < 3 pounds in tiny shop from two lovely ladies who only had 4 teeth between them. Onto bus, stopped for group photo, still the 15 of us, then to border with Bolivia. No problems. On to Hotel Gloria in Copacabana. Yes Copacabana Bolivia, the first Copacabana whose meaning is origin of water viewpoint. A priest promised the Madonna he would name the next place he visited after this town, then got shipwrecked off Brazil hence the name there.
The Madonna is The Queen of the Nation, very important spititually, culturally and politically, including to non-catholics.
There is a huge church here with a special chapel containing The Madonna. Her clothes are changed daily, three times a day during special festivals. All of her clothes are jewel encrusted and beautifully embroidered. Families deprive themselves over long periods to save money to buy her an item of clothing. Tens of thousands visit the town, church and nearby hill in pilgrimages, a bit like Lourdes, sometimes 40,000 on a special day.
Bought t shirts for me, Philip, Wayne and Leon. Philips is a classic.
On to La Paz tomorrow. No troubles here or there, but a strike up north apparently.
All the Best,
John
Sun 14 Left nice Hotel Casa Andina Puno early to board boat accross Lake Titticaca to take 15 of us to 3 inhabited islands. Titticaca is 165 kilometers long, 60k wide, 8,500 sq ks with depths ranging up to 288 meters. This is a lot of water. Originally sea water cut off from the ocean 10,000 years ago, it is now fed by 6 rivers and flows out through one rived that dissipates across Bolivia. It never reaches either the Pacific nor Atlantic Oceon. Some salt remains, but mostly fresh now.
First visit was to a man made island. Driven from Puno centuries ago, indiginous people first lived on boats then developed skills using the reeds to create islands and homes far from the invadors. They cut large sections of underwater reed root which then float to the top. These are dragged to the nearest beach to dry out, then lashed together to form a large area which is towed back out into the lake to the chosen position. Then cut top stalks and leaves of reeds are layed accross, first layer one way second at right angles etc until a floor that can be walked on is formed. The reeds are layered to a higher level for houses and other structures. They have to keep topping up the reeds and every 4 or 5 years, replace the whole island. There are hundreds of these reed islands, each containing 5 to 10 families, all with intricate interlocking cultural and spiritual customs. 526 families, 3,000 people in total. We visited one of these reed islands called Titimarka and were treated to a demonstration of how the islands are made and shown some of the foods and fish they eat. The ladies in out group dressed up in local costume with much giggling and hilarity. A small group of us were invited into one home by one of the three sisters who live in it. She spoke quite good english, attended a high school on land nearby and wants to be trained for the tourist industry. These people are very traditional in their ways and also very switched on. I bought a very nice blanket for Leon, it shows the Aconda, Puma and snake whick are central symbols top the Incas representing the heavens in which the Acondas fly, the ground on wich people and pumas live and the underground inhabited by snakes. I hope he like it.
Next to another reed island, Jachachaywa, where a wedding was underway. Bride and Groom, little bridesmaids, presents including an MFI wardrobe and a band continually playing and clearly in need of the practice. Lots of booze and soft drinks. The celebrations go on for 10 days. The men who drink the most gain some special standing in the newly weds future family.
Then on to Taquile, a large normal rocky island with a very important Headman who has even made an official visit to England. Long walk up to our rooms carring our back-packs. (Puffed a bit). Shown local produce, said to be the best woven and knitted wear in Peru. Only the men are allowed to knit. The do it VERY tightly. A boy is not allowed to get married until his knitted hat can hold water without leaking. The women weave. Beautiful stuff. Had soup for lunch, their soups are amazing, then walked to the top of the island, over 4,100 meters above sea level - more experience of not enough oxygen. Religious site, pre-inca ruins, and pictures of sunset then down for dinner. Soup again, had seconds, then white (rainbow?)trout, very fresh and perfectly cooked, plus local potatos, some a very strange shape, sort of cylindrical and wrinkly. White and brown trout were introduced by americans in 1958, first welcomed by locals but then bigger trout ate all the local fish, they all died out except 2 varieties. Not so pleased now.
Rooms very basic, shared with Ray and Stewart, bed quite comfortable with loads of thick blankets, Rumours of minus 5 degrees at night proved unfounded, it was cold but bearable. No hot water. Slept like a log.
Monday 15th today, 6am breakfast, then boat (saw some ducks) back to Puno. Bought snacks, bunch bannannas, 2 snickers bars, 2 packets buscuits, bottle water, 15 sols < 3 pounds in tiny shop from two lovely ladies who only had 4 teeth between them. Onto bus, stopped for group photo, still the 15 of us, then to border with Bolivia. No problems. On to Hotel Gloria in Copacabana. Yes Copacabana Bolivia, the first Copacabana whose meaning is origin of water viewpoint. A priest promised the Madonna he would name the next place he visited after this town, then got shipwrecked off Brazil hence the name there.
The Madonna is The Queen of the Nation, very important spititually, culturally and politically, including to non-catholics.
There is a huge church here with a special chapel containing The Madonna. Her clothes are changed daily, three times a day during special festivals. All of her clothes are jewel encrusted and beautifully embroidered. Families deprive themselves over long periods to save money to buy her an item of clothing. Tens of thousands visit the town, church and nearby hill in pilgrimages, a bit like Lourdes, sometimes 40,000 on a special day.
Bought t shirts for me, Philip, Wayne and Leon. Philips is a classic.
On to La Paz tomorrow. No troubles here or there, but a strike up north apparently.
All the Best,
John
Saturday, September 13, 2008
Peru, Bolivia, Brazil Fri'Sat
Peru, Bolivia, Brazil Fri'Sat
Friday rest day visited inca museum fascinating stuff 1000BC to 1400AD weapons, stonemason tools, pottery (some 1 metre high), pins, spoons, waeving instruments and loons, whistles, musical instruments, all well presented in a yniversity building near the main square.
Back to hotel, informed by manageress that Cindy and Dianes rooms walls are original inca stone walls. Next to hotel is archeological site and this plus hotel atea was home of one of the great inca kings.
Evening taken by Claudia to show. Brilliant. It was a story-fable about an inca girl who died to save her town. Teriffic dancing and choreography with visual effects and actors swinging about in the air in all directions. Great stuff, really enjoyed it.
Saturday, journey Cusco to Puna, everyone else went in train, second best scenic train journey in the world ( London to after Birmingham? I think someone was pulling my leg there) but no ticket for me aaaaaaaaaaaaw! But I went in minibus, just me and Claudia and driver ha ha, on road that mostly followed railway so saw all the scenery, stopped twice to visit ´sistine chapel of america´ and fascinating arceological site (more later), had amazing lunch, help yourself so went up 5 times including 2 puddings, journey took 3 hours less so had lie-in and saved 150 us dollars less 5 pounds for lunch ha ha.
Claudia excellent guide (with us to end of trip in La Paz), took me around Raqchi, the archeological site which includes the 500 year old central wall of a temple, 92 meters long and about 12 meters high, 1.7 to 3 meters wide. The bottom about 5 meters is made of huge stone blocks perfectly fitted together by the incas. the next 7 meters is made of clay, soli, silicon , other minerals, straw and other stuff and has amazingly survived 500 years. Also saw sets of houses, qolqas = large storage buildings, artificial lake, an inca wall surounding the town, inca bath places and part of an inca trail through the town. A great place to visit.
The Andean Sistine Chapel of America was very old 1572 and beautiful. It had an array of intricate artwork + loads of paintings by well known artists + gold plated woodwork and frames everywhere. A beautiful building in a small otherwise very ordinary village called Andahuaylillas in the middle of nowhere.
Now in Andina Hotel in Puno on edge of Lake Titycaca. Got to go now for evening meal, All the Best,
John
Friday rest day visited inca museum fascinating stuff 1000BC to 1400AD weapons, stonemason tools, pottery (some 1 metre high), pins, spoons, waeving instruments and loons, whistles, musical instruments, all well presented in a yniversity building near the main square.
Back to hotel, informed by manageress that Cindy and Dianes rooms walls are original inca stone walls. Next to hotel is archeological site and this plus hotel atea was home of one of the great inca kings.
Evening taken by Claudia to show. Brilliant. It was a story-fable about an inca girl who died to save her town. Teriffic dancing and choreography with visual effects and actors swinging about in the air in all directions. Great stuff, really enjoyed it.
Saturday, journey Cusco to Puna, everyone else went in train, second best scenic train journey in the world ( London to after Birmingham? I think someone was pulling my leg there) but no ticket for me aaaaaaaaaaaaw! But I went in minibus, just me and Claudia and driver ha ha, on road that mostly followed railway so saw all the scenery, stopped twice to visit ´sistine chapel of america´ and fascinating arceological site (more later), had amazing lunch, help yourself so went up 5 times including 2 puddings, journey took 3 hours less so had lie-in and saved 150 us dollars less 5 pounds for lunch ha ha.
Claudia excellent guide (with us to end of trip in La Paz), took me around Raqchi, the archeological site which includes the 500 year old central wall of a temple, 92 meters long and about 12 meters high, 1.7 to 3 meters wide. The bottom about 5 meters is made of huge stone blocks perfectly fitted together by the incas. the next 7 meters is made of clay, soli, silicon , other minerals, straw and other stuff and has amazingly survived 500 years. Also saw sets of houses, qolqas = large storage buildings, artificial lake, an inca wall surounding the town, inca bath places and part of an inca trail through the town. A great place to visit.
The Andean Sistine Chapel of America was very old 1572 and beautiful. It had an array of intricate artwork + loads of paintings by well known artists + gold plated woodwork and frames everywhere. A beautiful building in a small otherwise very ordinary village called Andahuaylillas in the middle of nowhere.
Now in Andina Hotel in Puno on edge of Lake Titycaca. Got to go now for evening meal, All the Best,
John
Thursday, September 11, 2008
Peru, Bolivia, Brazil Thurs 11 Sept 08
Peru, Bolivia, Brazil Thurs 11 Sept 08
Official tour of Machu Picchu with Claudia. Bussed up the switchback hill, half an hour, and in through the ticket office. There are thousands of tourists here but Claudia does an excellent job.
We are 2,432 meters above sea level on the side of a granite mountain in semi-tropical highland jungle. The rocks are mostly light grey in colour with a high content of quartz, mica and minerals which was used by the andean masons to construct a magnificent complex of buildings here.
It is believed that Machu Picchu was occupied by an elite section of the Incas, and its existance was not known about by the various non-inca tribes that had been subjugated by the Incas. Hence when the spanish came, and the non-incas told them all they wanted to know about the hated Inca empire, Machu Picchu remained undiscovered by the invaders. For some unknown reason, the Incas later abandoned Machu Picchu. Maybe a combination of disease, inability to trade sufficienly and greater opportunities in the spanish society.
In 1911, after some years searching for the fabled lost Inca city, Professor Hiram Bingham, an american, found the heavily overgrown ruins with the help of Melchor, a farmer, not our porter of course, it was a long time ago. With a young child as a guide provided by Melchor, Bingham discovered the Royal Tomb, the Principle Temple and the Temple of the three windows. Bingham removed tonnes of artyfacts and transported them to the USA with the promise that they would be studied and returned. Peru is still waiting, and its government is trying to get the USA University that has them to honour Binghams promise.
The name Machu Picchu comes from the mountain which had been given that name by the local people for many centuries.
Over the years since 1911 and still ongoing, the Peruvian authorities are uncovering and restoring this Inca city. They believe that up to 100,000 people lived here. It has a township area, terraces for agriculture, storage buildings, Royal enclosures, temples and towers, a guardhouse, gates, pathways and steps, and an astrological observatory. The sun was especially important to the Incas and they used the observarory to determine what time of year it was for sowing seeds, planting crops and harvesting.
The whole thing is a remarkable feat of stone masonry and building. Whilst it follows the contours of the mountan according to Incan custom, it was clearly a complete city providing all the requirements of the sophisticated and complex society that the Incas clearly sustained and continued to develop.
Am now in the little modern town at the bottom of the mountain, leaving at 3.30 by bus for Cusco where we have a "free" day tomorrow so no update planned for a couple of days.
Saturday we´re off the Lake Tittyhaha I think.
All the Best,
John
Official tour of Machu Picchu with Claudia. Bussed up the switchback hill, half an hour, and in through the ticket office. There are thousands of tourists here but Claudia does an excellent job.
We are 2,432 meters above sea level on the side of a granite mountain in semi-tropical highland jungle. The rocks are mostly light grey in colour with a high content of quartz, mica and minerals which was used by the andean masons to construct a magnificent complex of buildings here.
It is believed that Machu Picchu was occupied by an elite section of the Incas, and its existance was not known about by the various non-inca tribes that had been subjugated by the Incas. Hence when the spanish came, and the non-incas told them all they wanted to know about the hated Inca empire, Machu Picchu remained undiscovered by the invaders. For some unknown reason, the Incas later abandoned Machu Picchu. Maybe a combination of disease, inability to trade sufficienly and greater opportunities in the spanish society.
In 1911, after some years searching for the fabled lost Inca city, Professor Hiram Bingham, an american, found the heavily overgrown ruins with the help of Melchor, a farmer, not our porter of course, it was a long time ago. With a young child as a guide provided by Melchor, Bingham discovered the Royal Tomb, the Principle Temple and the Temple of the three windows. Bingham removed tonnes of artyfacts and transported them to the USA with the promise that they would be studied and returned. Peru is still waiting, and its government is trying to get the USA University that has them to honour Binghams promise.
The name Machu Picchu comes from the mountain which had been given that name by the local people for many centuries.
Over the years since 1911 and still ongoing, the Peruvian authorities are uncovering and restoring this Inca city. They believe that up to 100,000 people lived here. It has a township area, terraces for agriculture, storage buildings, Royal enclosures, temples and towers, a guardhouse, gates, pathways and steps, and an astrological observatory. The sun was especially important to the Incas and they used the observarory to determine what time of year it was for sowing seeds, planting crops and harvesting.
The whole thing is a remarkable feat of stone masonry and building. Whilst it follows the contours of the mountan according to Incan custom, it was clearly a complete city providing all the requirements of the sophisticated and complex society that the Incas clearly sustained and continued to develop.
Am now in the little modern town at the bottom of the mountain, leaving at 3.30 by bus for Cusco where we have a "free" day tomorrow so no update planned for a couple of days.
Saturday we´re off the Lake Tittyhaha I think.
All the Best,
John
Wednesday, September 10, 2008
Peru,Bolivia,Brazil Wed 10 Sept 08
Peru, Bolivia, Brazil Wed 10 Sept 08
Yesterday evening 5 of us had excellent farewell to Veronica meal in a restaurant on one side of the central square of Ollataytambo. I had alpaca steak, perfectly cooked. A group of musicians started to play, we were the only diners that evening, they turned out to be students earning some money to pay for their further education. The main guy was very good, I bought their CD to play to anyone who is travelling in my car instead of Laura Nyro.
Early (again) next morning said a sad farewell to Veronica and boarded train then bus to Machupicchu. The 4 of us walked the last section to the ruins of the settlement that the spanish invaders never found. It was eventually abandoned by the incas whose numbers had fallen from 20 million to about 6 million due mainly to disease, small pox etc. It was rediscovered in 1911. Since then, the overgrowth has been removed to reveal the walls of buildings, paths and terraces collectively forming a remarkable township perched high up in a remote part of the mountains.
We had a look at one side of the site, watched a bunch of indians practicing inca dancing for a "movie", then walked the trail up to the sun gate which is the end of the traditional tourist inca trail where the rest of our original group were due to arrive at 2pm. In fact they straggled in over a two hour period, we saw half of them arrive then returned to our hotel in the modern town below.
Visited the hot springs but had a few beers overlooking the pools rather than get wet. Bought a T shirt with a picture of a llama spitting at its handler (or a tourist?). Another evening meal, this time with the whole group, listening to their experiences. Some of them had been very poorly indeed with the altitude sickness.
Formal tour of Machupicchu tomorrow.
Now 10.40pm, ready for bed. All the Best,
John
Yesterday evening 5 of us had excellent farewell to Veronica meal in a restaurant on one side of the central square of Ollataytambo. I had alpaca steak, perfectly cooked. A group of musicians started to play, we were the only diners that evening, they turned out to be students earning some money to pay for their further education. The main guy was very good, I bought their CD to play to anyone who is travelling in my car instead of Laura Nyro.
Early (again) next morning said a sad farewell to Veronica and boarded train then bus to Machupicchu. The 4 of us walked the last section to the ruins of the settlement that the spanish invaders never found. It was eventually abandoned by the incas whose numbers had fallen from 20 million to about 6 million due mainly to disease, small pox etc. It was rediscovered in 1911. Since then, the overgrowth has been removed to reveal the walls of buildings, paths and terraces collectively forming a remarkable township perched high up in a remote part of the mountains.
We had a look at one side of the site, watched a bunch of indians practicing inca dancing for a "movie", then walked the trail up to the sun gate which is the end of the traditional tourist inca trail where the rest of our original group were due to arrive at 2pm. In fact they straggled in over a two hour period, we saw half of them arrive then returned to our hotel in the modern town below.
Visited the hot springs but had a few beers overlooking the pools rather than get wet. Bought a T shirt with a picture of a llama spitting at its handler (or a tourist?). Another evening meal, this time with the whole group, listening to their experiences. Some of them had been very poorly indeed with the altitude sickness.
Formal tour of Machupicchu tomorrow.
Now 10.40pm, ready for bed. All the Best,
John
Tuesday, September 09, 2008
Peru,Bolivia,Brazil 6 - 9 Sept 08
Peru, Bolivia, Brazil 6 - 9 Sept 08
Spectacular, Exceptional beauty, an amazing place.
We have trekked for 4 days through the Andean mountains of Peru, up to the highest pass at 4,575 meters, and down through the Sacred Inca Valley. Led by Veronica and 5 strong support team more of whom later, we followed inca trails level with the snow line, then descended into small plains and valleys. We met families and groups of people who live and flourish in this harsh environment, with mountains towering over them all around, beautiful landscapes from which they forge a living. These people are skilled in many ways, crop and livestock farming, preparing wools as described before and weaving, trading and travelling long distances to do so. School is compulsory for the children and they also walk a long way every school-day.
The most important person in our team, after Veronica, was the cook. His name is Juan and he had an assistant, Isac. The porters were led by Herman who kept close to us with his horse. The other porters, Raimundo and Melchor, went ahead each day with gang of llamas (pronounced yamas here) carring the tents and most of our gear. Camp sites were set up and made ready before our arrival each day. The dining tent had a table and 5 chairs for Veronica and us 4 trekkers. Lunch, tea, dinner, all superb, more later.
My fellow trekkers (are there 2 ks in trekkers? please let me know) were Stewart, Ray and Cindy all from West Australia. A great group, we gelled really well, with Stewart and Ray cracking jokes and all of us laughing much of the time.
Day 1, 6th, we were driven to Testayoc and left with Veronica and tha porters to start the trek which was up and up and up and up........
Now I must mention the effects of altitude. You can,t get enough oxygen into your lungs, however fit you are. Our time in Cusco and Ollantaytambo had helped us to adapt but this was something else. I had to open my mouth and nose and take in as much air as possible, it was very hard at times. Up and up and up..... Met Katy Magaly and her brother Joel on the way, then their father who told them to go with us to the camp site. They were very shy but enjoyed the experience and we chatted with them through Veronica a lot. Spanish is not the first language of the people who live in these remote areas, and Veronica is learning their language.
We all made it in good time according to Veronica to our first camp site at Tastayoq, 4,100 metres. It was bloody cold. Had a welcome cream corn soup and a salad for lunch, popcorn for tea and a beef meal and pudding for dinner.
My feet were frozen all night. Didn't get much sleep.
Day2 7th Porrige and bread and lovely marmalades for breakfast then up, up, up ........ to Huaraqtanqa Pass entrance, 4,480 metres. Saw Andean geese, a mountain caracara (a type of falcon) and an Andean Gaviota. Met Lilia, 9 years old who brought some woven goods up to us from her mother who was weaving and watching over some sheep further down the valley. This was in the middle of no-where. Mountains all around, and this lady, Beatrice, sat on the grass weaving with her 9 year old daughter. They come from the village of Ramira and are part of the Patacancha community. We went down to Beatrice, looked at the things she had made and bought a few things. I bought a nice llama each for Jo and Faye. The whole thing was an out of this world experience. Especially when I put my hand on a grassy mound which left me with a hundred prickles in my hand. I felt better about it when Veronica was helping me to pull them out.
We camped at Sondar Mayo, 4,420 metres, even colder. Lunch, tea and dinner all delicious, including pumpkin soup at some point. Bedtime, filled 2 bottles with hot water, wrapped them and put them by my feet. A better night's sleep.
Day 3, 8th, more porrige and eggs and bacon and marmalade on bread and up, up, up .... to Halancoma Pass 4575 metres, the highest point of our trek. Beautiful scenic views all around, we have had these all the way, but now we are level with the snow line. Breathtaking, literally.
now down, down, down, to the village of Pallata in the Patacancha Valley. Met more ladies and children, all in traditional dress with beautiful weavings. Cindy bought an incredibly colourful blanket. Passed small farms with cattle, pigs, llamas and horses. Photographed wild flowers, orchids, lupins, polylepis, red kanta, got one great picture of Veronica holding a ladies slipper bloom.
Special dinner today, our last night, with wine. Veronica definately a bit tipsy.
We are much lower altitude now, slept like sleeping beauty.
Camped at Pumama rea, just below an archeological site of an Inca Temple. Fascinating ruins designed with zig zag walls to honour lightening.
Day 4, 9th, today, followed Inca Trail along the side if the Inka Secret Valley. Followed incredible Inka aquaduct which is part of a network of constructed water-coursed supplying terraces down through the valley. Tremendous engineering. More vegetation, flowers, trees now. Eventually on to road ind in to Ollantaytambo. On the outskirts, came to a primaryu school having a pet animal competition. Each child had dressed up their pet with coats, pants, hats etc, there were, dogs, ducks, a baby llama, a baby goat, with teachers with clip-boards judging. We were invited in and the kids loved it.
Got to go now for farewell to Veronica evening meal.
All the Best,
John
Spectacular, Exceptional beauty, an amazing place.
We have trekked for 4 days through the Andean mountains of Peru, up to the highest pass at 4,575 meters, and down through the Sacred Inca Valley. Led by Veronica and 5 strong support team more of whom later, we followed inca trails level with the snow line, then descended into small plains and valleys. We met families and groups of people who live and flourish in this harsh environment, with mountains towering over them all around, beautiful landscapes from which they forge a living. These people are skilled in many ways, crop and livestock farming, preparing wools as described before and weaving, trading and travelling long distances to do so. School is compulsory for the children and they also walk a long way every school-day.
The most important person in our team, after Veronica, was the cook. His name is Juan and he had an assistant, Isac. The porters were led by Herman who kept close to us with his horse. The other porters, Raimundo and Melchor, went ahead each day with gang of llamas (pronounced yamas here) carring the tents and most of our gear. Camp sites were set up and made ready before our arrival each day. The dining tent had a table and 5 chairs for Veronica and us 4 trekkers. Lunch, tea, dinner, all superb, more later.
My fellow trekkers (are there 2 ks in trekkers? please let me know) were Stewart, Ray and Cindy all from West Australia. A great group, we gelled really well, with Stewart and Ray cracking jokes and all of us laughing much of the time.
Day 1, 6th, we were driven to Testayoc and left with Veronica and tha porters to start the trek which was up and up and up and up........
Now I must mention the effects of altitude. You can,t get enough oxygen into your lungs, however fit you are. Our time in Cusco and Ollantaytambo had helped us to adapt but this was something else. I had to open my mouth and nose and take in as much air as possible, it was very hard at times. Up and up and up..... Met Katy Magaly and her brother Joel on the way, then their father who told them to go with us to the camp site. They were very shy but enjoyed the experience and we chatted with them through Veronica a lot. Spanish is not the first language of the people who live in these remote areas, and Veronica is learning their language.
We all made it in good time according to Veronica to our first camp site at Tastayoq, 4,100 metres. It was bloody cold. Had a welcome cream corn soup and a salad for lunch, popcorn for tea and a beef meal and pudding for dinner.
My feet were frozen all night. Didn't get much sleep.
Day2 7th Porrige and bread and lovely marmalades for breakfast then up, up, up ........ to Huaraqtanqa Pass entrance, 4,480 metres. Saw Andean geese, a mountain caracara (a type of falcon) and an Andean Gaviota. Met Lilia, 9 years old who brought some woven goods up to us from her mother who was weaving and watching over some sheep further down the valley. This was in the middle of no-where. Mountains all around, and this lady, Beatrice, sat on the grass weaving with her 9 year old daughter. They come from the village of Ramira and are part of the Patacancha community. We went down to Beatrice, looked at the things she had made and bought a few things. I bought a nice llama each for Jo and Faye. The whole thing was an out of this world experience. Especially when I put my hand on a grassy mound which left me with a hundred prickles in my hand. I felt better about it when Veronica was helping me to pull them out.
We camped at Sondar Mayo, 4,420 metres, even colder. Lunch, tea and dinner all delicious, including pumpkin soup at some point. Bedtime, filled 2 bottles with hot water, wrapped them and put them by my feet. A better night's sleep.
Day 3, 8th, more porrige and eggs and bacon and marmalade on bread and up, up, up .... to Halancoma Pass 4575 metres, the highest point of our trek. Beautiful scenic views all around, we have had these all the way, but now we are level with the snow line. Breathtaking, literally.
now down, down, down, to the village of Pallata in the Patacancha Valley. Met more ladies and children, all in traditional dress with beautiful weavings. Cindy bought an incredibly colourful blanket. Passed small farms with cattle, pigs, llamas and horses. Photographed wild flowers, orchids, lupins, polylepis, red kanta, got one great picture of Veronica holding a ladies slipper bloom.
Special dinner today, our last night, with wine. Veronica definately a bit tipsy.
We are much lower altitude now, slept like sleeping beauty.
Camped at Pumama rea, just below an archeological site of an Inca Temple. Fascinating ruins designed with zig zag walls to honour lightening.
Day 4, 9th, today, followed Inca Trail along the side if the Inka Secret Valley. Followed incredible Inka aquaduct which is part of a network of constructed water-coursed supplying terraces down through the valley. Tremendous engineering. More vegetation, flowers, trees now. Eventually on to road ind in to Ollantaytambo. On the outskirts, came to a primaryu school having a pet animal competition. Each child had dressed up their pet with coats, pants, hats etc, there were, dogs, ducks, a baby llama, a baby goat, with teachers with clip-boards judging. We were invited in and the kids loved it.
Got to go now for farewell to Veronica evening meal.
All the Best,
John
Friday, September 05, 2008
Peru, Bolivia, Brazil 5/9/08
Peru, Bolivia, Brazil 5/9/08
Left Cusco by bus to Chinchero, an Inca township on the trail between Cusco and Machu Picchu. It has been an agricultural community for centuries, they have found pottery from 1500BC. The surrounding hills and valleys are covered in terraced plots growing a variety of crops, everything you can think of including 160 varieties of potato. (Peru supplied Europe during potato famines 18c?). This is a very striking place, with its Inka stone walling and backdrop of the Andes all around.
We were taken to a courtyard where a group of ladies in traditional dress (which they wear all the time anyway) have set themselves up to demonstrate wool cleaning, dyeing, spinning and weaving. Very impressive using a host of natural resources to very effectively wash and make colours for the wool, which is from alpacas (the best quality) and sheep. Startlingly colourful array of things they have made to sell displayed under lean-tos in their yard. Bought an orange bobble hat and belt for myself and some nice things for Jo and Faye. The wool is very soft and cosy.
Driving on to next stop, the bus seems tiny in these awsome landscapes, huge plains and hillsides divided into millions of plots, all surrounded by snow-capped mountains looming over us.
Most of the higher plots are tilled but empty, just a few showing green shoots of their spring crops pushing through. There are some large fields that look as though they have had grains harvested some months ago. They do grow wheat and barley here as well as lots of maize.
Descended into The Inca Sacred Valley. Stopped to walk for two hours, the first part through a huge series of terraced salt ponds, where very salty water from a mountain steam is directed via a network of channels into hundreds of these ponds. About 6´´/150mm deep, the water evaporates leaving pure salt which is manually harvested to supply this whole region. The whole thing, which has been in operation for over 2000 years, is owned by the community.
Next lunch in a Willkamajo restaurant. Wow, brilliant, 4 buffet courses as much as you wanted, salad, soup, spaghetti with beef, chicken,roast potatos, selection of puddings, I had 2, a strawberry thing and a lime jelly.
On to Ollantaytambo, the premier town in the Sacred Valley of the Incas. A beautiful place, massive mountains seem almost on top of us all around. I am in their internet shop right now, on the edge of the town square. Flowers in the gardens, including a long red bell shaped flower that was the Inca´s sacred flower representing water, a vital resource for this sophisticated agricultural society.
Overnight here then the treking begins tomorrow. May not be internet shops on the trail so may be a few days before next blog.
This is a great place to be,
All the Best,
John
Left Cusco by bus to Chinchero, an Inca township on the trail between Cusco and Machu Picchu. It has been an agricultural community for centuries, they have found pottery from 1500BC. The surrounding hills and valleys are covered in terraced plots growing a variety of crops, everything you can think of including 160 varieties of potato. (Peru supplied Europe during potato famines 18c?). This is a very striking place, with its Inka stone walling and backdrop of the Andes all around.
We were taken to a courtyard where a group of ladies in traditional dress (which they wear all the time anyway) have set themselves up to demonstrate wool cleaning, dyeing, spinning and weaving. Very impressive using a host of natural resources to very effectively wash and make colours for the wool, which is from alpacas (the best quality) and sheep. Startlingly colourful array of things they have made to sell displayed under lean-tos in their yard. Bought an orange bobble hat and belt for myself and some nice things for Jo and Faye. The wool is very soft and cosy.
Driving on to next stop, the bus seems tiny in these awsome landscapes, huge plains and hillsides divided into millions of plots, all surrounded by snow-capped mountains looming over us.
Most of the higher plots are tilled but empty, just a few showing green shoots of their spring crops pushing through. There are some large fields that look as though they have had grains harvested some months ago. They do grow wheat and barley here as well as lots of maize.
Descended into The Inca Sacred Valley. Stopped to walk for two hours, the first part through a huge series of terraced salt ponds, where very salty water from a mountain steam is directed via a network of channels into hundreds of these ponds. About 6´´/150mm deep, the water evaporates leaving pure salt which is manually harvested to supply this whole region. The whole thing, which has been in operation for over 2000 years, is owned by the community.
Next lunch in a Willkamajo restaurant. Wow, brilliant, 4 buffet courses as much as you wanted, salad, soup, spaghetti with beef, chicken,roast potatos, selection of puddings, I had 2, a strawberry thing and a lime jelly.
On to Ollantaytambo, the premier town in the Sacred Valley of the Incas. A beautiful place, massive mountains seem almost on top of us all around. I am in their internet shop right now, on the edge of the town square. Flowers in the gardens, including a long red bell shaped flower that was the Inca´s sacred flower representing water, a vital resource for this sophisticated agricultural society.
Overnight here then the treking begins tomorrow. May not be internet shops on the trail so may be a few days before next blog.
This is a great place to be,
All the Best,
John
Thursday, September 04, 2008
Peru, Bolivia,Brazil 4.9.08
Peru,Boliivia,Brazil 4.9.08
Met new guide, Cusycoullour. Her name means Happystar = Venus.
Today is for touristing Cusco. This city was the centre of the Inca Empire which was huge in the years before the spanish stuck their oar in. The stratagy of the Inka Kings was to employ diplomacy when setting out to absorb neighbouring communities, doubtless in conjunction with a show of force. They also incorporated the new tribes´ religious beliefs and ceremonies into their own, thus avoiding resistance on this basis. (Maybe christian and moslem empires could have learned something from these people)
The Incas were actually just the latest (and last) of a series of rulers of this part of the world. Civilisation here had been developing over thousands of years, resulting in sophisticated agriculture and building practices in particular, all inherited and developed further by the Incas.
We visited Qorikancha. Under spanish rule, this had become a Dominican monastery, but they built this on top of an Inca set of buildings that formed the centre of Inca rule and religion in Cusco and hence their empire, and in their minds therefore - the world. The Incas called this place The Royal House of the Sun. In modern times, the Peruvians have uncovered and cleaned up remaining inca structures and their stonework is breathtaking. Huge stone sections perfectly fitting together, with no morter, but lumps and grooves that key in exactly, a kind of ancient tongue and groove in stone, but on a massive scale. Remarkable to see.
Next a drive up and up and up to the top of a hill overlooking Cusco to a place called Saqsaywaman. An amazing series of stoneworks integrated into natural rock formations in places, a massive area that took tens of years maybe centuries and millions of workers to create. Huge stones quarried and transported from hills miles away. In one hillside, they created three massive zig-zag lines of stone walls to look like lightening flowing down the hill. Incredible stuff.
Sadly, after their civilisation was superceeded by the spanish invadors, millions of Incas were destroyed by disease imported by europeans, mainly smallpox from spain.
Got a photo of me standing with a genuine Inca Chief - only 1 sol = about 20p.
Next back to the main square of Cusco for a set lunch - only 15 sol for 3 courses and my lucky day it was another member of the groups birthday so we all had a piece of his chocolate birthday cake.
Then on to the Cathedral also in the square. As has happened so many times, the conquerers destroyed the previous civilisation´s religious building, in this case the Incas´, and built their own in its place. An impressive structure with much gold leaf covered carvings and valuable paintings.
I like Cusco, it´s more like a town than a city really, buzzing but not cold and impersonal. I would recommend it to anyone but remember the altitude - 3,500 metres I think. The effect is like a combination of a mild hangover and motion nausia in a boat.
We´re on the move again tomorrow. All the Best to everyone,
John
Met new guide, Cusycoullour. Her name means Happystar = Venus.
Today is for touristing Cusco. This city was the centre of the Inca Empire which was huge in the years before the spanish stuck their oar in. The stratagy of the Inka Kings was to employ diplomacy when setting out to absorb neighbouring communities, doubtless in conjunction with a show of force. They also incorporated the new tribes´ religious beliefs and ceremonies into their own, thus avoiding resistance on this basis. (Maybe christian and moslem empires could have learned something from these people)
The Incas were actually just the latest (and last) of a series of rulers of this part of the world. Civilisation here had been developing over thousands of years, resulting in sophisticated agriculture and building practices in particular, all inherited and developed further by the Incas.
We visited Qorikancha. Under spanish rule, this had become a Dominican monastery, but they built this on top of an Inca set of buildings that formed the centre of Inca rule and religion in Cusco and hence their empire, and in their minds therefore - the world. The Incas called this place The Royal House of the Sun. In modern times, the Peruvians have uncovered and cleaned up remaining inca structures and their stonework is breathtaking. Huge stone sections perfectly fitting together, with no morter, but lumps and grooves that key in exactly, a kind of ancient tongue and groove in stone, but on a massive scale. Remarkable to see.
Next a drive up and up and up to the top of a hill overlooking Cusco to a place called Saqsaywaman. An amazing series of stoneworks integrated into natural rock formations in places, a massive area that took tens of years maybe centuries and millions of workers to create. Huge stones quarried and transported from hills miles away. In one hillside, they created three massive zig-zag lines of stone walls to look like lightening flowing down the hill. Incredible stuff.
Sadly, after their civilisation was superceeded by the spanish invadors, millions of Incas were destroyed by disease imported by europeans, mainly smallpox from spain.
Got a photo of me standing with a genuine Inca Chief - only 1 sol = about 20p.
Next back to the main square of Cusco for a set lunch - only 15 sol for 3 courses and my lucky day it was another member of the groups birthday so we all had a piece of his chocolate birthday cake.
Then on to the Cathedral also in the square. As has happened so many times, the conquerers destroyed the previous civilisation´s religious building, in this case the Incas´, and built their own in its place. An impressive structure with much gold leaf covered carvings and valuable paintings.
I like Cusco, it´s more like a town than a city really, buzzing but not cold and impersonal. I would recommend it to anyone but remember the altitude - 3,500 metres I think. The effect is like a combination of a mild hangover and motion nausia in a boat.
We´re on the move again tomorrow. All the Best to everyone,
John
Wednesday, September 03, 2008
Peru, Bolivia, Brazil 31 Aug - 3 Sept 08
Peru, Bolivia, Brazil 31 Aug - 3 Sept 08
31 Aug
All day flying via Madrid, arrived Lima 5pm, 6 hrs behind UK. Met by Omar, a student of languages, now learning italian to add to spanish, english and french.
Long drive thru Lima then only time for short walk around hotel in evening.
1 Sept
Good breakfast, joined group of 15 in lobby then early departure for flight over Andes to Cusco then Puerto Maldonado where met by our jungle guides, Fernando (from Cusco) and Lennie (a member of one of the local native communities).
From Maldonado, a long drive on dry earth roads through areas cleared of jungle, some cropping and livestock but mostly sparse wild new vegetation where earlier crops had used up most of the nutrients in the soil.
Then a long river trip (a tributory of the Amazon) (lunch on the boat was rice and veg in rolled up bannana tree leaves) followed by a trek through dense ancient jungle to The Lodge. Stopped to admire white caymen, side-neck turtles, hawks high up in the sky, macaws in the trees, many types of birds and butterflies on the way.
The Lodge is all timber, thatch and bamboo with many rooms for visitors. Very basic, but with an en-suite bathroom and running (cold only) water. The shower is very refreshing. Bedroom and bathroom each have one end wholly open to the dense jungle 2 meters away. Oil lamps and a candle for light. Mosquito net over the very comfortable bed.
Afternoon straight out for trek in the jungle, introduced to a brazil nut tree - coconut type shells containing 10 - 25 nuts fall in Dec - march when whole families are licensed to collect and sell them. Then dusky monkeys darting through the trees quite close to us. Fascinating.
Back to lodge for dinner (excellent) then jungle trek to 37 meter/120ft tower to admire the canopy. (I reluctantly agreed to forgo this pleasure to look after the bags at the bottom)
Back to Lodge, good nights sleep, woken by something falling onto the net over bed, pitch black, continual din from the open jungle a few meters away great stuff.
2 Sept
Wake up call 4am, breakfast 4.30, depart 5am for Chimbadas Lake. Herons, other lakeside birds, more macaws, tookans high in the trees hoping around and making a lot of noise, splashing in the water of giant otters further up the lake. Fishing for pirannah, caught 2, beautiful fish, put them back in the lake. Back tto Lodge.
Another trek to a hide to watch macaws licking salt. They stayed high up in the trees due to a hawk circling nearby, but Fernando got an excellent photo for me through his telescope.
Back to Lodge, free time, I lay in hammock in room only to be treated to a bunch of saddle back tamarins passing through the jungle right outside my open-ended room. What a great place this is to be.
Another excellent lunch then off to visit the local Shaman = doctor. He is an expert in preparing medicines and potions for the local people who cannot afford the town doctors and hospitals. He had some very potentially useful sounding potions. We all had our faces painted to encourage the good spirits to watch over us. On the way back, crossing a narrow bridge over a shallow water course, interrupted a opossum wrestling with a cane toad in its mouth just feet away from me. Wow. More monkeys in the trees, got some decent photos. Evening with Lennie in the jungle, only 5 of us volunteered to join her with torches searching for spiders and other various night-time creatures.
Stood on a line of ants, thousands of them carrying bits of leaf to their nest. They seemed quite angry. Managed to shake most of them off my boots. Lennie not happy.
3 Sept
7am breakfast, 8am departure, trek to river, disturbed copyu next to path, it froze then made a crashing noise as it ran from us. Back to Maladonado and sad goodbyes to Fernando and Lennie. Flew to Cusco where I am entering this blog in internet cafe. Have walked aroun the city a bit and like it much more than Lima. New guide Claudia here. 3000 meters plus so much cooler at night. Hotel very nice, friendly. Every one here very friendly, professional, efficient. All very impressive. Meal in restaurant, local food, starter especially enjoyable, a new taste to me. Back to bed now.
A great first few days, the jungle is an amazing place, lovely people. All the Best, John
31 Aug
All day flying via Madrid, arrived Lima 5pm, 6 hrs behind UK. Met by Omar, a student of languages, now learning italian to add to spanish, english and french.
Long drive thru Lima then only time for short walk around hotel in evening.
1 Sept
Good breakfast, joined group of 15 in lobby then early departure for flight over Andes to Cusco then Puerto Maldonado where met by our jungle guides, Fernando (from Cusco) and Lennie (a member of one of the local native communities).
From Maldonado, a long drive on dry earth roads through areas cleared of jungle, some cropping and livestock but mostly sparse wild new vegetation where earlier crops had used up most of the nutrients in the soil.
Then a long river trip (a tributory of the Amazon) (lunch on the boat was rice and veg in rolled up bannana tree leaves) followed by a trek through dense ancient jungle to The Lodge. Stopped to admire white caymen, side-neck turtles, hawks high up in the sky, macaws in the trees, many types of birds and butterflies on the way.
The Lodge is all timber, thatch and bamboo with many rooms for visitors. Very basic, but with an en-suite bathroom and running (cold only) water. The shower is very refreshing. Bedroom and bathroom each have one end wholly open to the dense jungle 2 meters away. Oil lamps and a candle for light. Mosquito net over the very comfortable bed.
Afternoon straight out for trek in the jungle, introduced to a brazil nut tree - coconut type shells containing 10 - 25 nuts fall in Dec - march when whole families are licensed to collect and sell them. Then dusky monkeys darting through the trees quite close to us. Fascinating.
Back to lodge for dinner (excellent) then jungle trek to 37 meter/120ft tower to admire the canopy. (I reluctantly agreed to forgo this pleasure to look after the bags at the bottom)
Back to Lodge, good nights sleep, woken by something falling onto the net over bed, pitch black, continual din from the open jungle a few meters away great stuff.
2 Sept
Wake up call 4am, breakfast 4.30, depart 5am for Chimbadas Lake. Herons, other lakeside birds, more macaws, tookans high in the trees hoping around and making a lot of noise, splashing in the water of giant otters further up the lake. Fishing for pirannah, caught 2, beautiful fish, put them back in the lake. Back tto Lodge.
Another trek to a hide to watch macaws licking salt. They stayed high up in the trees due to a hawk circling nearby, but Fernando got an excellent photo for me through his telescope.
Back to Lodge, free time, I lay in hammock in room only to be treated to a bunch of saddle back tamarins passing through the jungle right outside my open-ended room. What a great place this is to be.
Another excellent lunch then off to visit the local Shaman = doctor. He is an expert in preparing medicines and potions for the local people who cannot afford the town doctors and hospitals. He had some very potentially useful sounding potions. We all had our faces painted to encourage the good spirits to watch over us. On the way back, crossing a narrow bridge over a shallow water course, interrupted a opossum wrestling with a cane toad in its mouth just feet away from me. Wow. More monkeys in the trees, got some decent photos. Evening with Lennie in the jungle, only 5 of us volunteered to join her with torches searching for spiders and other various night-time creatures.
Stood on a line of ants, thousands of them carrying bits of leaf to their nest. They seemed quite angry. Managed to shake most of them off my boots. Lennie not happy.
3 Sept
7am breakfast, 8am departure, trek to river, disturbed copyu next to path, it froze then made a crashing noise as it ran from us. Back to Maladonado and sad goodbyes to Fernando and Lennie. Flew to Cusco where I am entering this blog in internet cafe. Have walked aroun the city a bit and like it much more than Lima. New guide Claudia here. 3000 meters plus so much cooler at night. Hotel very nice, friendly. Every one here very friendly, professional, efficient. All very impressive. Meal in restaurant, local food, starter especially enjoyable, a new taste to me. Back to bed now.
A great first few days, the jungle is an amazing place, lovely people. All the Best, John
Saturday, August 23, 2008
August 2008
August 2008
Saturday 9th, all day at National Eisteddfod, this year at Cardiff. It is a huge annual festival, the largest in Europe for competitive music and poetry-writing. The modern Eisteddfod started in 1881 but some aspects of the festival go back 1500 years. Listened to 13 large (>100) and medium size male voice choirs, amazing power and quality singing in which the welsh excel of course. Hope to go to next year's in Bala (the town not the lake)
Mon 11th - Wed 13th
A short trip to the Republic of Ireland. It was a bit rough on the ferry but enjoyed the drive to the Slieve Russel Hotel north of Dublin, near Ballyconnel. Excellent meals in the restaurant, not huge but beautifully cooked and presented.
Sunday 31st, flying to Lima, Peru.
Saturday 9th, all day at National Eisteddfod, this year at Cardiff. It is a huge annual festival, the largest in Europe for competitive music and poetry-writing. The modern Eisteddfod started in 1881 but some aspects of the festival go back 1500 years. Listened to 13 large (>100) and medium size male voice choirs, amazing power and quality singing in which the welsh excel of course. Hope to go to next year's in Bala (the town not the lake)
Mon 11th - Wed 13th
A short trip to the Republic of Ireland. It was a bit rough on the ferry but enjoyed the drive to the Slieve Russel Hotel north of Dublin, near Ballyconnel. Excellent meals in the restaurant, not huge but beautifully cooked and presented.
Sunday 31st, flying to Lima, Peru.
Monday, March 17, 2008
Vietnam and Thailand '08 day 29 - 35
Vietnam and Thailand '08 day 29 - 35
Now 5pm on last day here. Had another swim in the sea today. You know how pleasant it is after feeling cold all day to get into a nice warm bath - well here, after feeling a bit too hot all day, it is just great to submerge yourself into the nicely cool, but never cold, sea.
Had a great holiday, and so looking forward to seeing everyone at home again. Even missed Megan and Tigga and co.
All the Best to everyone
John
Now 5pm on last day here. Had another swim in the sea today. You know how pleasant it is after feeling cold all day to get into a nice warm bath - well here, after feeling a bit too hot all day, it is just great to submerge yourself into the nicely cool, but never cold, sea.
Had a great holiday, and so looking forward to seeing everyone at home again. Even missed Megan and Tigga and co.
All the Best to everyone
John
Wednesday, March 12, 2008
Vietnam and Thailand '08 day 22 - 28
Vietnam and Thailand '08 day 22 - 28
Not a lot to report really. Weather always hot, some cloud, a little rain, lots of sun. Eaten too many free danish pastries and free biscuits, really enjoying the local food in The Elephant Restaurant. Slept a lot, had a few swims in the pool and runs along the beach. (no trips) Love it here.
See you all soon,
John
Not a lot to report really. Weather always hot, some cloud, a little rain, lots of sun. Eaten too many free danish pastries and free biscuits, really enjoying the local food in The Elephant Restaurant. Slept a lot, had a few swims in the pool and runs along the beach. (no trips) Love it here.
See you all soon,
John
Monday, March 03, 2008
Vietnam and Thailand '08 day 15 - 21
Vietnam and Thailand '08 day 15 - 21
Hello all, it's catch up time.
Been here in Phuket 1 week now and it's blissful.
Some really good news about the hotel, they provide free danish pastries all day every day. Very fresh and tasty they are too.
Elephant Restaurant is as good as ever, they have a huge selection of local dishes, had a different one every time so far, I look forward to my meal there each evening.
No trips here so far, just relaxing with a few swims and runs in between.
Planning to make next posting 1 week from today.
Best wishes to everyone,
John
Hello all, it's catch up time.
Been here in Phuket 1 week now and it's blissful.
Some really good news about the hotel, they provide free danish pastries all day every day. Very fresh and tasty they are too.
Elephant Restaurant is as good as ever, they have a huge selection of local dishes, had a different one every time so far, I look forward to my meal there each evening.
No trips here so far, just relaxing with a few swims and runs in between.
Planning to make next posting 1 week from today.
Best wishes to everyone,
John
Sunday, March 02, 2008
Vietnam ans Thailand '08 day 14
Vietnam and Thailand '08 day 14
Had time for one last walk around Chiang Mai before flights via Bangkok to Phuket. All went well and on time.
Now in the same resort in Phuket as last year, it's always nice to come back to a familiar place. Especially welcome is the 7 course breakfast, all good quality tasty stuff.
The programme here is to do some relaxing, reading, eating and sleeping. Maybe try to get a bit fit in between.
Plan to report progress tomorrow.
All the Best,
John
Had time for one last walk around Chiang Mai before flights via Bangkok to Phuket. All went well and on time.
Now in the same resort in Phuket as last year, it's always nice to come back to a familiar place. Especially welcome is the 7 course breakfast, all good quality tasty stuff.
The programme here is to do some relaxing, reading, eating and sleeping. Maybe try to get a bit fit in between.
Plan to report progress tomorrow.
All the Best,
John
Saturday, March 01, 2008
Vietnam and Thailand '08 day 13
Vietnam and Thailand '08 day 13
Another day out today, this time with guide Pon
First to Sankampaeng Hot Springs, a visitor centre way out in the countryside frequented mainly by the local population rather than tourists I think. Beautiful grounds to walk around with flower beds and trees. Boiling water (105 degrees c according to one notice exclamation mark) shooting and bubbling out of the ground and collected in a pond and a little river of hot water winding its way through the grounds. A pool that you can swim in, and little chalets that you can stay in. A lovely spot to visit.
Pon bought a basket of eggs at the ticket office. At the pond, she suspended them in the water for them to boil. Then we sat with our feet dangling in the river of hot water and ate the eggs with a little soy sauce sprinkled on top. Blissful.
Back on the road, we stopped at a roadside stall, where Pon bought some vegetables. They have become very expensive in the city apparently, possibly a by-product of tourism. They are very concerned about inflation over here.
Half way back, we parked up in a small town for lunch in a tiny restaurant in a small market area, again obviously used mainly by locals, for a very enjoyable Thai meal.
Then, in the same town, we spent 2 hours in an umbrella factory. Well, parasols really. This WAS for tourists, and was fascinating. Watched workers making the frames out of bamboo and the material out of a sticky solution made from the bark of a tree. Especially interesting watching a very skilled lady placing the material over the frame and sticking and trimming it. All of the patterns and pictures on the material are hand-painted by an army of painters, who also, for a small fee, will paint a picture on your equipment. I had an elephant painted and Pon had flowers painted on her mobile phone. I will show you when I get home.
Bought a mobile for Jo in the shop, bought a parasol for Pon.
A charming day, loved every minute.
This was my last full day in the north of Thailand. Whilst the friendliness is the same as everywhere else in this part of the world, the people and culture are subtly different. The north has a charm of its own, not to be missed and well worth the time spent here.
Happy days, take care everyone,
John
Another day out today, this time with guide Pon
First to Sankampaeng Hot Springs, a visitor centre way out in the countryside frequented mainly by the local population rather than tourists I think. Beautiful grounds to walk around with flower beds and trees. Boiling water (105 degrees c according to one notice exclamation mark) shooting and bubbling out of the ground and collected in a pond and a little river of hot water winding its way through the grounds. A pool that you can swim in, and little chalets that you can stay in. A lovely spot to visit.
Pon bought a basket of eggs at the ticket office. At the pond, she suspended them in the water for them to boil. Then we sat with our feet dangling in the river of hot water and ate the eggs with a little soy sauce sprinkled on top. Blissful.
Back on the road, we stopped at a roadside stall, where Pon bought some vegetables. They have become very expensive in the city apparently, possibly a by-product of tourism. They are very concerned about inflation over here.
Half way back, we parked up in a small town for lunch in a tiny restaurant in a small market area, again obviously used mainly by locals, for a very enjoyable Thai meal.
Then, in the same town, we spent 2 hours in an umbrella factory. Well, parasols really. This WAS for tourists, and was fascinating. Watched workers making the frames out of bamboo and the material out of a sticky solution made from the bark of a tree. Especially interesting watching a very skilled lady placing the material over the frame and sticking and trimming it. All of the patterns and pictures on the material are hand-painted by an army of painters, who also, for a small fee, will paint a picture on your equipment. I had an elephant painted and Pon had flowers painted on her mobile phone. I will show you when I get home.
Bought a mobile for Jo in the shop, bought a parasol for Pon.
A charming day, loved every minute.
This was my last full day in the north of Thailand. Whilst the friendliness is the same as everywhere else in this part of the world, the people and culture are subtly different. The north has a charm of its own, not to be missed and well worth the time spent here.
Happy days, take care everyone,
John
Friday, February 29, 2008
Vietnam and Thailand '08 day 12
Vietnam and Thailand '08 day12
Another trip today, first to orchid nursery, very nice, they seem to grow out of thin air, suspended with roots dangling down, beautiful blooms of all colours sprouting out of the tops. Just given plenty of water.
Then on to the the main objective, the Maesa Elephant Camp. It was founded in 1976 by Mr Choochart Kalmapijit starting with 5 elephants. 'With high concern for healthcare and breeding for captive elephants' there is now over 70 happy elephants living in the camp. The camp even has accreditation for iso 9001:2000.
They were a real bunch of characters. Our guide informed us that they work in the mornings and are free to roam in the afternoons and evenings until needed for the next morning, when each mahout has to find his elephant. They call their elephant and some come to their 'master'. Each elephant has his own bell so if they don't come, the mahout can hear his elephant's bell and track him or her down. But apparently some elephants don't want to be found. So they hide behind trees, standing very still or even holding their bell with their trunk so that the mahout cannot see or hear them.
First introduction is to about 10 of them all in a line ready to accept bunches of bananas handily available for tourists to buy as you walk into the camp. With Mahouts on their backs, they will place a hat on your head and pose for photos before taking it off ready for the next customer who still has some bananas.
(You girls will be interested to learn that gestation for elephants is 22 months. Expectant mothers develop a close friendship during pregnancy with another female who then helps at the birth including cutting? the umbilical chord. Like a sort of midwife).
Next four of them went for a lazy soak in the nearby creek - more photo opportunities.
Then we were taken to the seating around a huge arena. Dozens of elephants with their mahouts began to congregate in one corner. Then they put on a show. Well it's worth travelling to Thailand just to see this. They paraded, danced, did some gymnastics, played football including taking a penalty after one of them committed a foul (he obviously played for Yeovil in an earlier life), threw darts at balloons in competition with one of the spectators, painted pictures (yes pictures, I have a photo to prove it). They bowed to the audience and wiggled their bums when applauded. Great stuff, and as far as I as a layman can tell, they seemed to be thoroughly enjoying it all.
Finally the elephant ride. Sitting on a wooden seat fitted right on the highest point of his back, with the mahout astride his neck, this bloody huge elephant took me for a one hour trek along a narrow path through the jungle. He stopped regularly along the way to grab grass and foliage within his reach - must have consumed a skip-full just in that hour. (They eat 200 kilos and drink 60 gallons daily). Up and down steep, sometimes wet and slippery, slopes, he picked his footings with great care and didn't fall over once.
Another memorable day, I will never forget the elephants.
All the Best to everyone,
John
Another trip today, first to orchid nursery, very nice, they seem to grow out of thin air, suspended with roots dangling down, beautiful blooms of all colours sprouting out of the tops. Just given plenty of water.
Then on to the the main objective, the Maesa Elephant Camp. It was founded in 1976 by Mr Choochart Kalmapijit starting with 5 elephants. 'With high concern for healthcare and breeding for captive elephants' there is now over 70 happy elephants living in the camp. The camp even has accreditation for iso 9001:2000.
They were a real bunch of characters. Our guide informed us that they work in the mornings and are free to roam in the afternoons and evenings until needed for the next morning, when each mahout has to find his elephant. They call their elephant and some come to their 'master'. Each elephant has his own bell so if they don't come, the mahout can hear his elephant's bell and track him or her down. But apparently some elephants don't want to be found. So they hide behind trees, standing very still or even holding their bell with their trunk so that the mahout cannot see or hear them.
First introduction is to about 10 of them all in a line ready to accept bunches of bananas handily available for tourists to buy as you walk into the camp. With Mahouts on their backs, they will place a hat on your head and pose for photos before taking it off ready for the next customer who still has some bananas.
(You girls will be interested to learn that gestation for elephants is 22 months. Expectant mothers develop a close friendship during pregnancy with another female who then helps at the birth including cutting? the umbilical chord. Like a sort of midwife).
Next four of them went for a lazy soak in the nearby creek - more photo opportunities.
Then we were taken to the seating around a huge arena. Dozens of elephants with their mahouts began to congregate in one corner. Then they put on a show. Well it's worth travelling to Thailand just to see this. They paraded, danced, did some gymnastics, played football including taking a penalty after one of them committed a foul (he obviously played for Yeovil in an earlier life), threw darts at balloons in competition with one of the spectators, painted pictures (yes pictures, I have a photo to prove it). They bowed to the audience and wiggled their bums when applauded. Great stuff, and as far as I as a layman can tell, they seemed to be thoroughly enjoying it all.
Finally the elephant ride. Sitting on a wooden seat fitted right on the highest point of his back, with the mahout astride his neck, this bloody huge elephant took me for a one hour trek along a narrow path through the jungle. He stopped regularly along the way to grab grass and foliage within his reach - must have consumed a skip-full just in that hour. (They eat 200 kilos and drink 60 gallons daily). Up and down steep, sometimes wet and slippery, slopes, he picked his footings with great care and didn't fall over once.
Another memorable day, I will never forget the elephants.
All the Best to everyone,
John
Thursday, February 28, 2008
Vietnam and Thailand '08 day 11
Vietnam and Thailand '08 day 11
Chiang Mai is the ancient city of the North. Located in mountainous terrain it was founded in 1296 by King Mengrai the Great (you remember him?). It was the capital of Lanna Thai (Kingdom of a million rice fields), the first independent kingdom in the Golden Triangle. Until recently, it could only be reached from Bangkok by an arduous river journey and elephant back taking several weeks. The isolation of Chiang Mai allowed it to develop independently, somewhat influenced by Burma, and accounts for much of its present charm. The people of Chiang Mai have their own customs, architectural traditions, alphabet, dance, cuisine, handicrafts and a distinct lilting dialect.
Today is my first full day here. Took an excursion to the premier and famous Wat Phrathat Doi Suthep Rajvoravihara which is located very high up the nearby mountain. Very steep windy road up and up and up seemingly forever. Especially interesting drive due to the traditional pastime over here of taking the shortest route at every opportunity resulting in downcoming traffic cutting corners and frequently appearing coming towards us on our side of the road. Invigorating stuff.
306 steps up to the temple from the car park. However my fellow travellers opted for the vernickerly railway so I went with the majority and we rode up in a very cramped carriage. The view from the top of the city far below was breathtaking. The temple complex was an attractive collection of about 30 buildings of the Llanna style. According to legend, holy relics discovered during the reign of King Kuena (1355 - 1385) were placed in a howdah on the back of a white elephant, which carried them to Wat Phrathat then dropped dead due to exhaustion. The white elephant is especially revered in this part of Thailand.
Stup Pagoda (Golden Chedi) in the centre of the complex is the famous golden Chedi of Wat Phrathat Doi Suthep, 79 feet high and 39 feet across its base, it is covered with engraved gold plate and flanked by 4 ornamental umbrellas. It is astoundingly beautiful.
''Doi Suthep, a secret peak that speaks of old Thai customs, where natures beauty doth unfold over the golden chedi''
We also visited a Hmong mountain village. The Hmong originated from China and live to a much more basic standard than the indigenous Thais. The people of this village had taken full advantage of the opportunities presented by tourist visitors. Dozens of little shops in tight alleyways, charming in their own right, adults and children in traditional costume and even an old lady reputed to be 102 posing for photographs for a small payment, all in good humour and great fun.
Then we emerged into an incredibly beautiful flower garden, perhaps an acre in size, laid out on a gently sloping hillside at the edge of the village with flowering plants of every conceivable colour, surrounded by the intense green of the trees and undergrowth of the jungle for miles around. Absolutely delightful, another memory that will endure of this trip.
The poor people of this village are undoubtedly the richest people on earth to be living here. A truly wonderful place.
John
Chiang Mai is the ancient city of the North. Located in mountainous terrain it was founded in 1296 by King Mengrai the Great (you remember him?). It was the capital of Lanna Thai (Kingdom of a million rice fields), the first independent kingdom in the Golden Triangle. Until recently, it could only be reached from Bangkok by an arduous river journey and elephant back taking several weeks. The isolation of Chiang Mai allowed it to develop independently, somewhat influenced by Burma, and accounts for much of its present charm. The people of Chiang Mai have their own customs, architectural traditions, alphabet, dance, cuisine, handicrafts and a distinct lilting dialect.
Today is my first full day here. Took an excursion to the premier and famous Wat Phrathat Doi Suthep Rajvoravihara which is located very high up the nearby mountain. Very steep windy road up and up and up seemingly forever. Especially interesting drive due to the traditional pastime over here of taking the shortest route at every opportunity resulting in downcoming traffic cutting corners and frequently appearing coming towards us on our side of the road. Invigorating stuff.
306 steps up to the temple from the car park. However my fellow travellers opted for the vernickerly railway so I went with the majority and we rode up in a very cramped carriage. The view from the top of the city far below was breathtaking. The temple complex was an attractive collection of about 30 buildings of the Llanna style. According to legend, holy relics discovered during the reign of King Kuena (1355 - 1385) were placed in a howdah on the back of a white elephant, which carried them to Wat Phrathat then dropped dead due to exhaustion. The white elephant is especially revered in this part of Thailand.
Stup Pagoda (Golden Chedi) in the centre of the complex is the famous golden Chedi of Wat Phrathat Doi Suthep, 79 feet high and 39 feet across its base, it is covered with engraved gold plate and flanked by 4 ornamental umbrellas. It is astoundingly beautiful.
''Doi Suthep, a secret peak that speaks of old Thai customs, where natures beauty doth unfold over the golden chedi''
We also visited a Hmong mountain village. The Hmong originated from China and live to a much more basic standard than the indigenous Thais. The people of this village had taken full advantage of the opportunities presented by tourist visitors. Dozens of little shops in tight alleyways, charming in their own right, adults and children in traditional costume and even an old lady reputed to be 102 posing for photographs for a small payment, all in good humour and great fun.
Then we emerged into an incredibly beautiful flower garden, perhaps an acre in size, laid out on a gently sloping hillside at the edge of the village with flowering plants of every conceivable colour, surrounded by the intense green of the trees and undergrowth of the jungle for miles around. Absolutely delightful, another memory that will endure of this trip.
The poor people of this village are undoubtedly the richest people on earth to be living here. A truly wonderful place.
John
Wednesday, February 27, 2008
Vietnam and Thailand '08 day 10
Vietnam and Thailand '08 day 10
Flight to Chiang Mai (name means 'new city', it is only 700 years old exclamation mark). Excellent hotel with a free lunch - fried pork, fried fish, squid, fried rice, and green beans on the Riverside Terrace - superb. Just walked around the rest of the afternoon. Saw much more of the 'real' people and city than in Bangkok, even though Chiang Mai is second largest city, 1.7 million. According to transfer/tour rep., people here have rounder faces, are shorter and do not rush - they would rather let someone in a hurry pass them by. Maybe this is the best outlook? (except in business of course). The few I spoke to today were very friendly as everywhere else I have been in this part of the world. Maybe a bit more reserved which is fine. Except lady in charge of internet shop, laugh a minute, gave me 2 bannanas, will definately go back there.
(sign in hotel - 'please do not open the window to step out onto the balcony, this hotel does not have any balconys. Due to an error, patio doors were installed as windows on all 25 floors. Please ignore the helpful arrow and sign 'slide'. The hotel management has undertaken to replace the windows as soon as they are fully depreciated by the accountants. Thank you for choosing our hotel')
All the Best,
John
Flight to Chiang Mai (name means 'new city', it is only 700 years old exclamation mark). Excellent hotel with a free lunch - fried pork, fried fish, squid, fried rice, and green beans on the Riverside Terrace - superb. Just walked around the rest of the afternoon. Saw much more of the 'real' people and city than in Bangkok, even though Chiang Mai is second largest city, 1.7 million. According to transfer/tour rep., people here have rounder faces, are shorter and do not rush - they would rather let someone in a hurry pass them by. Maybe this is the best outlook? (except in business of course). The few I spoke to today were very friendly as everywhere else I have been in this part of the world. Maybe a bit more reserved which is fine. Except lady in charge of internet shop, laugh a minute, gave me 2 bannanas, will definately go back there.
(sign in hotel - 'please do not open the window to step out onto the balcony, this hotel does not have any balconys. Due to an error, patio doors were installed as windows on all 25 floors. Please ignore the helpful arrow and sign 'slide'. The hotel management has undertaken to replace the windows as soon as they are fully depreciated by the accountants. Thank you for choosing our hotel')
All the Best,
John
Vietnam and Thailand '08 day 9
Vietnam and Thailand '08 day 9
Early start today for tour - Bridge over the River Kwai and Tiger Temple
Driven 2 hours to Karchanaburi on River Kwai, first was a look around the museum of photos and drawings of prisoners of war and the conditions they lived and worked in during their forced labours to build the 415k Burma - Thailand railway, bridges and cuttings in 1942/3. The Japanese War Cabinet ordered the construction of the railway to supply its army in Burma (now Myanmar) following the defeat of its navy in the Battle of Midway in June 1942. The railway, planned and abandoned by the British years earlier and estimated by them to require 4 years to build, was completed in 15 months. The Japanese used 30,000 British, 18,000 Dutch, 13,000 Australian and 700 American prisoners of war plus an unknown number of Asian labourers from China, Burma, Thailand, Malaya and Singapore. 13,000 British, Australian, Dutch and Americans plus 70,000 - 90,000 Asians died. Malaria, dysentry, ulcers, cholera, starvation, exhaustion, falls from bridges, executions, beatings to death.
After the museum, into a small fast boat, only room for 5 in each, up the river to the bridge. The original wooden one has disappeared but the second one, made of steel and repaired after being bombed by the allies, is still in use. Also a tourist attraction. I was able to walk across the whole length of the bridge along the centre of the track - fotunately got back before a waiting train started to cross. Got some good photos.
(interesting footnote, I am hopeless with heights and this bridge was high above the water but I have much less of a problem when there is water below can anyone explain this?)
After bridge, lunch in a riverside restaurant - excellent. Interestingly, we learned from our guide ( a very attractive young lady) that the film 'Bridge over the River Kwai' is banned in Thailand - not sure whether due to inaccuracies or unacceptable content.
After lunch, we visited a huge cemetary containing thev remains and headstones of 7,000 of the pows who died. They were in sections, British, Australian, Dutch and American. Harrowing.
Then on to the Tiger Temple.Tigers on leads, Monks free to roam and tourists herded by keepers. Beautiful and impressive beasts (the tigers), lots of photo oportunities, got several of me hugging tigers, tried to get one hugging the guide but not allowed. 4 cubs, 3 asleep, 1 (the male) very active, free to roam with keeper close at hand, stalking goats and pigs . very entertaining. Given a tiger lead as a souvenier, this will be very useful in Bovingdon.
Another great day.
Evening, back to the same restaurant as last night for meal. Girls opposite very subdued this evening, all with hangovers I guess.
Best wishes to everyone,
John
Early start today for tour - Bridge over the River Kwai and Tiger Temple
Driven 2 hours to Karchanaburi on River Kwai, first was a look around the museum of photos and drawings of prisoners of war and the conditions they lived and worked in during their forced labours to build the 415k Burma - Thailand railway, bridges and cuttings in 1942/3. The Japanese War Cabinet ordered the construction of the railway to supply its army in Burma (now Myanmar) following the defeat of its navy in the Battle of Midway in June 1942. The railway, planned and abandoned by the British years earlier and estimated by them to require 4 years to build, was completed in 15 months. The Japanese used 30,000 British, 18,000 Dutch, 13,000 Australian and 700 American prisoners of war plus an unknown number of Asian labourers from China, Burma, Thailand, Malaya and Singapore. 13,000 British, Australian, Dutch and Americans plus 70,000 - 90,000 Asians died. Malaria, dysentry, ulcers, cholera, starvation, exhaustion, falls from bridges, executions, beatings to death.
After the museum, into a small fast boat, only room for 5 in each, up the river to the bridge. The original wooden one has disappeared but the second one, made of steel and repaired after being bombed by the allies, is still in use. Also a tourist attraction. I was able to walk across the whole length of the bridge along the centre of the track - fotunately got back before a waiting train started to cross. Got some good photos.
(interesting footnote, I am hopeless with heights and this bridge was high above the water but I have much less of a problem when there is water below can anyone explain this?)
After bridge, lunch in a riverside restaurant - excellent. Interestingly, we learned from our guide ( a very attractive young lady) that the film 'Bridge over the River Kwai' is banned in Thailand - not sure whether due to inaccuracies or unacceptable content.
After lunch, we visited a huge cemetary containing thev remains and headstones of 7,000 of the pows who died. They were in sections, British, Australian, Dutch and American. Harrowing.
Then on to the Tiger Temple.Tigers on leads, Monks free to roam and tourists herded by keepers. Beautiful and impressive beasts (the tigers), lots of photo oportunities, got several of me hugging tigers, tried to get one hugging the guide but not allowed. 4 cubs, 3 asleep, 1 (the male) very active, free to roam with keeper close at hand, stalking goats and pigs . very entertaining. Given a tiger lead as a souvenier, this will be very useful in Bovingdon.
Another great day.
Evening, back to the same restaurant as last night for meal. Girls opposite very subdued this evening, all with hangovers I guess.
Best wishes to everyone,
John
Tuesday, February 26, 2008
day 8 continued
day 8 continued
sorry - the keyboard froze. I upset it by holding the shift key down for more than 8 seconds.
After the gem factory, back to the hotel to recover exclamation mark (sorry again, I can't find the exclamation mark on this Thai keyboard)
It was a great day and the Grand Palace will be one of the enduring memories of this trip.
Evening, found the raunchiest bar in the neighbourhood and had a meal in the restaurant opposite and watched Liverpool vs Inter on the raunchy bar tele accross the (narrow) road interspersed with major distractions from the girls 'manning' the entrance to their bar. A good night to be there because they were celebrating (with whisky) their bosses birthday. They were having a great time despite the lack of customers, dancing to the loud music and giving any passing male a very hard time indeed. Two of them came over (separately) to talk to me, the sad old-timer in the restaurant opposite. One was from Chiang Rai near to where I am travelling to next, she was working in Bangkok to send money back to her mother at home. The other had 2 children and was looking for a man with money to support them and settle down with. Not sad, just reality in Bangkok. They both went back to their party/work and had some more whisky.
Got to bed just after midnight, not too bad, but being collected 6.15am for tomorrow's tour exclamation mark I will try to find this key when I have more time All the Best,
John
sorry - the keyboard froze. I upset it by holding the shift key down for more than 8 seconds.
After the gem factory, back to the hotel to recover exclamation mark (sorry again, I can't find the exclamation mark on this Thai keyboard)
It was a great day and the Grand Palace will be one of the enduring memories of this trip.
Evening, found the raunchiest bar in the neighbourhood and had a meal in the restaurant opposite and watched Liverpool vs Inter on the raunchy bar tele accross the (narrow) road interspersed with major distractions from the girls 'manning' the entrance to their bar. A good night to be there because they were celebrating (with whisky) their bosses birthday. They were having a great time despite the lack of customers, dancing to the loud music and giving any passing male a very hard time indeed. Two of them came over (separately) to talk to me, the sad old-timer in the restaurant opposite. One was from Chiang Rai near to where I am travelling to next, she was working in Bangkok to send money back to her mother at home. The other had 2 children and was looking for a man with money to support them and settle down with. Not sad, just reality in Bangkok. They both went back to their party/work and had some more whisky.
Got to bed just after midnight, not too bad, but being collected 6.15am for tomorrow's tour exclamation mark I will try to find this key when I have more time All the Best,
John
Vietnam and Thailand '08 day 8
Vietnam and Thailand '08 day 8
Did a tour of Bangkok, picked up at hotel at 6.45 ugh. Traffic really bad in this city, even with 8 lane dual carriageways, so took over 1 hour to collect rest of group, mostly australians, and get to riverside quay. Into boat, up very busy wide Chao Phraya river, guide pointed out temples (wats), of varying size, antiquity and ornatity. Especially striking was The Temple of Dawn (1842) at which we stopped to walk around. The river floating market has disappeared but a few lone traders in punts were plying their waresalong the sides of the riverwhere many old wooden houses on stilts are homes to Bangkok families. 95% of Thais follow Buddhism, closely telated to Hinduism but we did see a couple of Christian churches, although the moslem community makes up most of the other 5%. The guide, a very enthusiastic and very much in control thai lady, pointed out a lizard lying in the sun at the top of some steps. It looked like our lizards but much larger, maybe 2 ft/600mm long. Amazingly then, as if for our benefit, a very much larger specimin emerged from the water, climbed up the steps and chased the smaller one away. The newcomer was longer than the flight of 12 or so steps, I guess he was 6ft/2m long.All of us tourists and even the guide were very excited.
Next, up a canal, more waterside dwellings and sight of the Kings Royal Barge parked in it's 'garage'.
Also along the river and canals, often very nearto and towering over old timber houses, are many multi-storey buildings - hotels, banks, office blocks. The contrast of old and new illustrates the rapid development of Thailand over recent decades. Thailand is some way ahead of Vietnam and Cambodia in terms of economic development and infrastructure, and from what I can make out, much of the credit for Thailand's progress belongs to the present King and other members of the Royal family. The King is the longest serving living monarch, over 60 years on the throne.
Next on the tour was the Grand Palace complex. Begun in 1782 and steadily added to over 120 years, it is a remarkable and beautiful collection of 34? Royal Mansions, Halls, Pavilions, Temples and other strustures as well as the Palace itself. Unlike the Citadel in Hue, the complex is complete, well preserved and maintained and in regular use as well as being open to visitors. The Temple of the Emeralg Buddha is breathtaking. Many of the outside walls are decorated with millions of tiny pieces of stone of all the colours you can think of, all cut and placed by hand, producing a stunningly beautiful effect. Other structures are covered in gold leaf, erected in honour of deceased members of the Royal family. Dotted around are all sorts of animal based figures and ornamental trees and shrubs. All around the sides of one huge building is a mural depicting an historical conflict between one of the Kings and a devil adversary who tried and failed to steal the Kings wife.
Sadly one building was closed because it contaoined the body of the Kings elder sisterwho died in early January.. She has been embalmed and wiill be kept for many months before cremation.It is common practice in Thailand for the embalmed bodies of deceased relations to be kept for a time before cremation. Our guide told us that her Grandfather was kept in a corner of the family house while they saved up for and made preparations for his funeral. She said she really missed him being there after he was eventually cremated.
After the Grand Palace, we were taken to a gemstone and jewellry factory and showroom. Emeralds, rubys, saphire, jade. Beautiful stuff with maybe 60 workers skillfully working the stones plus gold and silver into totally hand-made jewellry. Thousands of items on display for sale in the huge showroom. Well worth a visit next time you are in Bangkok, although you have to resist the pleasantly hard sell by the numerous staff who are more than willing to assist you in your purchases. I resisted.
After the gem factory, back to the hotel to recover
Did a tour of Bangkok, picked up at hotel at 6.45 ugh. Traffic really bad in this city, even with 8 lane dual carriageways, so took over 1 hour to collect rest of group, mostly australians, and get to riverside quay. Into boat, up very busy wide Chao Phraya river, guide pointed out temples (wats), of varying size, antiquity and ornatity. Especially striking was The Temple of Dawn (1842) at which we stopped to walk around. The river floating market has disappeared but a few lone traders in punts were plying their waresalong the sides of the riverwhere many old wooden houses on stilts are homes to Bangkok families. 95% of Thais follow Buddhism, closely telated to Hinduism but we did see a couple of Christian churches, although the moslem community makes up most of the other 5%. The guide, a very enthusiastic and very much in control thai lady, pointed out a lizard lying in the sun at the top of some steps. It looked like our lizards but much larger, maybe 2 ft/600mm long. Amazingly then, as if for our benefit, a very much larger specimin emerged from the water, climbed up the steps and chased the smaller one away. The newcomer was longer than the flight of 12 or so steps, I guess he was 6ft/2m long.All of us tourists and even the guide were very excited.
Next, up a canal, more waterside dwellings and sight of the Kings Royal Barge parked in it's 'garage'.
Also along the river and canals, often very nearto and towering over old timber houses, are many multi-storey buildings - hotels, banks, office blocks. The contrast of old and new illustrates the rapid development of Thailand over recent decades. Thailand is some way ahead of Vietnam and Cambodia in terms of economic development and infrastructure, and from what I can make out, much of the credit for Thailand's progress belongs to the present King and other members of the Royal family. The King is the longest serving living monarch, over 60 years on the throne.
Next on the tour was the Grand Palace complex. Begun in 1782 and steadily added to over 120 years, it is a remarkable and beautiful collection of 34? Royal Mansions, Halls, Pavilions, Temples and other strustures as well as the Palace itself. Unlike the Citadel in Hue, the complex is complete, well preserved and maintained and in regular use as well as being open to visitors. The Temple of the Emeralg Buddha is breathtaking. Many of the outside walls are decorated with millions of tiny pieces of stone of all the colours you can think of, all cut and placed by hand, producing a stunningly beautiful effect. Other structures are covered in gold leaf, erected in honour of deceased members of the Royal family. Dotted around are all sorts of animal based figures and ornamental trees and shrubs. All around the sides of one huge building is a mural depicting an historical conflict between one of the Kings and a devil adversary who tried and failed to steal the Kings wife.
Sadly one building was closed because it contaoined the body of the Kings elder sisterwho died in early January.. She has been embalmed and wiill be kept for many months before cremation.It is common practice in Thailand for the embalmed bodies of deceased relations to be kept for a time before cremation. Our guide told us that her Grandfather was kept in a corner of the family house while they saved up for and made preparations for his funeral. She said she really missed him being there after he was eventually cremated.
After the Grand Palace, we were taken to a gemstone and jewellry factory and showroom. Emeralds, rubys, saphire, jade. Beautiful stuff with maybe 60 workers skillfully working the stones plus gold and silver into totally hand-made jewellry. Thousands of items on display for sale in the huge showroom. Well worth a visit next time you are in Bangkok, although you have to resist the pleasantly hard sell by the numerous staff who are more than willing to assist you in your purchases. I resisted.
After the gem factory, back to the hotel to recover
Monday, February 25, 2008
Vietnam and Thailand '08 day 7
Vietnam and Thailand '08 day 7
Travelling day today, Hue to Hanoi to Bangkok. Flights all good and on time. Hotel in Bangkok is at the end of a narrow one-way street full of shops and restaurants. Very smart hotel and room. Booked 2 excursions for next 2 days with travel rep. after checking in.
Evening meal in Leabanese restaurant nearby, excellent food but served by miserable man who looked like the owner or manager - obviously didn't want to be there or maybe didn't like westerners. Food took a long time too. Rest of staff very attentive and efficient but appeared to be downcast - miserableness is infectious. First unhappy person I've come accross on this trip.
Walked around local area for a while, hundreds of small shops and eating places many offering western food, stalls on the pavements, cooked food on roadside kitchens, packed with locals and tourists. Massive overhead monorail passenger transport system dominates the nearby main road. Some cities like Hue are just big towns, Bangkok is definately a city city.
Keep in touch,
John
Travelling day today, Hue to Hanoi to Bangkok. Flights all good and on time. Hotel in Bangkok is at the end of a narrow one-way street full of shops and restaurants. Very smart hotel and room. Booked 2 excursions for next 2 days with travel rep. after checking in.
Evening meal in Leabanese restaurant nearby, excellent food but served by miserable man who looked like the owner or manager - obviously didn't want to be there or maybe didn't like westerners. Food took a long time too. Rest of staff very attentive and efficient but appeared to be downcast - miserableness is infectious. First unhappy person I've come accross on this trip.
Walked around local area for a while, hundreds of small shops and eating places many offering western food, stalls on the pavements, cooked food on roadside kitchens, packed with locals and tourists. Massive overhead monorail passenger transport system dominates the nearby main road. Some cities like Hue are just big towns, Bangkok is definately a city city.
Keep in touch,
John
Saturday, February 23, 2008
Vietnam and Thailand '08 day 6
Vietnam and Thailand '08 day 6
Walked, pottered, read and packed through the day. Collected at 7pm by Tuan as arranged for meal prepared by Quy at their home. Wow, it was even more delicious than the previous evening's restaurant meal. The spring rolls dipped in sauce were exquisite. 4 0r 5 courses with sticky white rice, all so tasty it was like being in heaven. Had to stop when I got full up again. brilliant.
Before the meal, Tuan took me to meet the neighbours the other side. Met the mother and daughter first, the latter spoke very good english so we all chatted for some time with her and Tuan translating for her mother although it is surprising how much you can make yourself understood with signs and gesticulations. The mother, a very nice and hospitable lady, poured some rice wine for me from a jar containing green plants seemingly growing in the wine. I just felt like a glass of wine, and this was very tasty but nearly blew my head off - it was like drinking neat whiskey. I enjoyed it very much once I realised how strong it was. We had some Thai tea afterwards which was very pleasant after the rice wine. The father joined us and I told him how much I admired his beautiful carved furniture, very striking and expensive hand carved hardwood, teak I believe. As I left he showed me a whole array of very impressive bonsai trees, plants and flowers displayed just outside their doorway. He must have worked over many years to produce these.
Back to Tuan and Quy's, more photos of them with Tao and Nung who were on the go all of the time but behaved impecably all evening.
Eventually driven back to hotel by Quy after a super and memorable evening.
All the Best,
John
Walked, pottered, read and packed through the day. Collected at 7pm by Tuan as arranged for meal prepared by Quy at their home. Wow, it was even more delicious than the previous evening's restaurant meal. The spring rolls dipped in sauce were exquisite. 4 0r 5 courses with sticky white rice, all so tasty it was like being in heaven. Had to stop when I got full up again. brilliant.
Before the meal, Tuan took me to meet the neighbours the other side. Met the mother and daughter first, the latter spoke very good english so we all chatted for some time with her and Tuan translating for her mother although it is surprising how much you can make yourself understood with signs and gesticulations. The mother, a very nice and hospitable lady, poured some rice wine for me from a jar containing green plants seemingly growing in the wine. I just felt like a glass of wine, and this was very tasty but nearly blew my head off - it was like drinking neat whiskey. I enjoyed it very much once I realised how strong it was. We had some Thai tea afterwards which was very pleasant after the rice wine. The father joined us and I told him how much I admired his beautiful carved furniture, very striking and expensive hand carved hardwood, teak I believe. As I left he showed me a whole array of very impressive bonsai trees, plants and flowers displayed just outside their doorway. He must have worked over many years to produce these.
Back to Tuan and Quy's, more photos of them with Tao and Nung who were on the go all of the time but behaved impecably all evening.
Eventually driven back to hotel by Quy after a super and memorable evening.
All the Best,
John
Vietnam and Thailand '08 day 5
Vietnam and Thailand day 5
A wandering about day. Walked around old part of city, you really get a feel for a place by just wandering around the busy streets where people live and work and sell from their shops and stalls and walk by or cycle/moped by. Record number on a moped still 5, keep looking for a six.
I broke one of my rules today. When people try to start a conversation with me in the street, I smile (as they always do here), say hello and answer politely their question which is usually 'where do you come from' and keep walking, saying no thank you if they are trying to sell something or get you into their tuc tuc (open taxi). Anyway, today a moped carrying a man and a woman stopped a few meters in front of me and the man said hello, where do you come from and I responded as above and walked on past them. They drove on but stopped again 20m ahead of me. This time the man told me that he was a teacher of english and his wife (on the moped with him) had told him to stop again and invite me back to their home. He also told me that his wife was a cook (before they had their 2 children) so I thought it might be worth a chance so said OK so she got off the moped and walked home while I got on and he drove me to their house (not far). Well they turned out to be extremely nice people, Tuan the teacher and Quy the cook, interesting to talk to and very hospitable. Their house is right next door to Huy's mother's and her sister must be nearby because her little daughter appeared while I was there, got some great photos of her with Auntie Quy. Tuan and Quy's children got home from child-minders soon after, Tao (boy, 4) and Nung? (girl 21 months) both very quick, bright, active and well-behaved.
Taken to meet Quy's mother who was in the Pagoda 2 doors up. Wow - there was a buddhist ceremony underway, 4 musicians/singers making really good music, 8 or so dancers in full brightly coloured traditional costume and maybe 15 watching including mother. She was very welcoming, took me into the ceremony room and showed me where to sit. Entrancing. Back to Tuang and Huy's house, more tea vietnamese style, more chating and photos.
Then they asked me to join then for dinner in their house that evening. I had to say I couldn't because I had already arranged to meet a couple from north California, Tom and Linda, so Tuan said he would take us all to a REAL vietnamese restaurant in the old city where Quy said the food is very good and as a cook, she knew. Took a chance and said yes and hoped it would be OK with Tom and Linda.
Phoned Linda as soon as I got back to hotel, and fortunately they were totally up for it.
Collected at 7 by Tuan, Quy, Tao and Quy's 16 year old brother (Nung too tired) in taxi and 7 of us driven
via maze of back streets some not much wider than the taxi to restaurant which was very clean and very basic, really just tables and chairs in a covered area.
We were asked soon after we arrived 'do we like chicken' and of course we all said yes. Shortly after this we heard a frantic squawking followed by silence. It was nice to know that our chicken would be fresh.
When the food started to arrive, Quy insisted on being 'mother', dishing out the soup, the rice, then the succession of dishes - strips of green vegetables, fried pork, squid, noodles, and of course, chicken. Well it wasn't just delicious, it was super delicious. Linda found a small round purple piece of the chicken in her bowl, Tuan had one too, kidneys perhaps, but no, after Quy almost fell off her chair laughing, she eventually managed to explain to us that it was a boy chicken. Linda politely declined to eat hers. Tom and Linda were full before me so got some of their portions. It was so good I could have kept going all evening but unfortunately started to get full myself too. A real taste of Hue people, culture and food, a wonderful evening enjoyed by all to complete an exceptional day.
Tuan and Quy invited me back for a meal in their house the next evening so I said yes please. (Tom and Linda flying out next morning, I'm scheduled to fly to Bangkok day after tomorrow, so only one more full day for me in Hue)
Glad I broke my rule.
Bestest to all,
John
A wandering about day. Walked around old part of city, you really get a feel for a place by just wandering around the busy streets where people live and work and sell from their shops and stalls and walk by or cycle/moped by. Record number on a moped still 5, keep looking for a six.
I broke one of my rules today. When people try to start a conversation with me in the street, I smile (as they always do here), say hello and answer politely their question which is usually 'where do you come from' and keep walking, saying no thank you if they are trying to sell something or get you into their tuc tuc (open taxi). Anyway, today a moped carrying a man and a woman stopped a few meters in front of me and the man said hello, where do you come from and I responded as above and walked on past them. They drove on but stopped again 20m ahead of me. This time the man told me that he was a teacher of english and his wife (on the moped with him) had told him to stop again and invite me back to their home. He also told me that his wife was a cook (before they had their 2 children) so I thought it might be worth a chance so said OK so she got off the moped and walked home while I got on and he drove me to their house (not far). Well they turned out to be extremely nice people, Tuan the teacher and Quy the cook, interesting to talk to and very hospitable. Their house is right next door to Huy's mother's and her sister must be nearby because her little daughter appeared while I was there, got some great photos of her with Auntie Quy. Tuan and Quy's children got home from child-minders soon after, Tao (boy, 4) and Nung? (girl 21 months) both very quick, bright, active and well-behaved.
Taken to meet Quy's mother who was in the Pagoda 2 doors up. Wow - there was a buddhist ceremony underway, 4 musicians/singers making really good music, 8 or so dancers in full brightly coloured traditional costume and maybe 15 watching including mother. She was very welcoming, took me into the ceremony room and showed me where to sit. Entrancing. Back to Tuang and Huy's house, more tea vietnamese style, more chating and photos.
Then they asked me to join then for dinner in their house that evening. I had to say I couldn't because I had already arranged to meet a couple from north California, Tom and Linda, so Tuan said he would take us all to a REAL vietnamese restaurant in the old city where Quy said the food is very good and as a cook, she knew. Took a chance and said yes and hoped it would be OK with Tom and Linda.
Phoned Linda as soon as I got back to hotel, and fortunately they were totally up for it.
Collected at 7 by Tuan, Quy, Tao and Quy's 16 year old brother (Nung too tired) in taxi and 7 of us driven
via maze of back streets some not much wider than the taxi to restaurant which was very clean and very basic, really just tables and chairs in a covered area.
We were asked soon after we arrived 'do we like chicken' and of course we all said yes. Shortly after this we heard a frantic squawking followed by silence. It was nice to know that our chicken would be fresh.
When the food started to arrive, Quy insisted on being 'mother', dishing out the soup, the rice, then the succession of dishes - strips of green vegetables, fried pork, squid, noodles, and of course, chicken. Well it wasn't just delicious, it was super delicious. Linda found a small round purple piece of the chicken in her bowl, Tuan had one too, kidneys perhaps, but no, after Quy almost fell off her chair laughing, she eventually managed to explain to us that it was a boy chicken. Linda politely declined to eat hers. Tom and Linda were full before me so got some of their portions. It was so good I could have kept going all evening but unfortunately started to get full myself too. A real taste of Hue people, culture and food, a wonderful evening enjoyed by all to complete an exceptional day.
Tuan and Quy invited me back for a meal in their house the next evening so I said yes please. (Tom and Linda flying out next morning, I'm scheduled to fly to Bangkok day after tomorrow, so only one more full day for me in Hue)
Glad I broke my rule.
Bestest to all,
John
Friday, February 22, 2008
Vietnam and Thailand '08 day 4
Vietnam and Thailand '08 day 4
Took a day tour of the city, 20 of us + 3 driver/guides in a minibus. They have fold up seats in the aisle. Visited the Garden House, a Mandarins private residence built for him by the Emperor. Got a fellow tourist to take a photo of me shaking the hand of the Mandarins Grandson, now 78. Next to Tu Ducs tomb, very impressive, then to the An Phouc Restaurant for lunch - soup followed by a selection of meats and vegetables presented on separate plates for you to take which you want with your boiled rice I tried them all, a delicious meal. I sat with a couple from the Blue Mountains behind Sydney, a couple from Kiev (U kraine) and an Indian lady from Surrey, all very pleasant to chat with. Next to the Palace and tomb of Emperor Khai Dinh, an early 20th century King of the Nguyen Dynasty controlled by the french. Then to P & T of E Minh Mang a long raining early 19th century 2nd king of the Dynasty who, our guide informed us, pushed the country into great advances in agriculture. Next the Pagoda in honour of the Heavenly Lady. In Vietnam, 70% of the population are Buddhists who worship dead kings and heros in Temples and Tombs and Buddha in Pagodas. (They have 3 Buddhas, past present and future). From this Pagoda, in 1963, former Monk Thich Quang Duc drove to Saigon (now Ho Chi Minh City) and set himself on fire to protest against the South Vietnamese regimes treatment of Buddhists. The whole world saw it on television. TQD is now revered for turning the tide against Buddhism in the South. He was burnt to a cinder but his heart was undamaged so they have got that on show somewhere. Back to the Pagoda, I was fascinated to watch and listen to 30 monks chanting and singing in front of their Buddha. Aged about 8 to 30, they wore robes of different colours and haircuts according to their seniority. I was quite entranced and almost late for the last bit of the tour, a boat trip up the river. This was slightly more exciting than a bus ride up the M4. And that was the end of the tour which actually was very good. The chief guide was a university graduate in english language so spoke it quite well but with a strong accent. The Vietnamese I suspect are taught english by other Vietnamese, a bit like the french learning english from Inspector Clouseau. They pronounce the words as they would in their own language. Fair enough and by listening carefully you can follow most of it quite well. It is more difficult for other nationalities however, who often have to accept the double whammy of having a guide speaking foreign language (english) being spoken with a strong local accent. I remember my Danish friends on last years tour having some difficulty. Just been introduced to Peter sitting next to me in the Internet shop. He is dutch and lives in Thailand working as a tour guide for groups from the Netherlands.
Sorry, have I droned on?
Best wishes to everyone,
John
Took a day tour of the city, 20 of us + 3 driver/guides in a minibus. They have fold up seats in the aisle. Visited the Garden House, a Mandarins private residence built for him by the Emperor. Got a fellow tourist to take a photo of me shaking the hand of the Mandarins Grandson, now 78. Next to Tu Ducs tomb, very impressive, then to the An Phouc Restaurant for lunch - soup followed by a selection of meats and vegetables presented on separate plates for you to take which you want with your boiled rice I tried them all, a delicious meal. I sat with a couple from the Blue Mountains behind Sydney, a couple from Kiev (U kraine) and an Indian lady from Surrey, all very pleasant to chat with. Next to the Palace and tomb of Emperor Khai Dinh, an early 20th century King of the Nguyen Dynasty controlled by the french. Then to P & T of E Minh Mang a long raining early 19th century 2nd king of the Dynasty who, our guide informed us, pushed the country into great advances in agriculture. Next the Pagoda in honour of the Heavenly Lady. In Vietnam, 70% of the population are Buddhists who worship dead kings and heros in Temples and Tombs and Buddha in Pagodas. (They have 3 Buddhas, past present and future). From this Pagoda, in 1963, former Monk Thich Quang Duc drove to Saigon (now Ho Chi Minh City) and set himself on fire to protest against the South Vietnamese regimes treatment of Buddhists. The whole world saw it on television. TQD is now revered for turning the tide against Buddhism in the South. He was burnt to a cinder but his heart was undamaged so they have got that on show somewhere. Back to the Pagoda, I was fascinated to watch and listen to 30 monks chanting and singing in front of their Buddha. Aged about 8 to 30, they wore robes of different colours and haircuts according to their seniority. I was quite entranced and almost late for the last bit of the tour, a boat trip up the river. This was slightly more exciting than a bus ride up the M4. And that was the end of the tour which actually was very good. The chief guide was a university graduate in english language so spoke it quite well but with a strong accent. The Vietnamese I suspect are taught english by other Vietnamese, a bit like the french learning english from Inspector Clouseau. They pronounce the words as they would in their own language. Fair enough and by listening carefully you can follow most of it quite well. It is more difficult for other nationalities however, who often have to accept the double whammy of having a guide speaking foreign language (english) being spoken with a strong local accent. I remember my Danish friends on last years tour having some difficulty. Just been introduced to Peter sitting next to me in the Internet shop. He is dutch and lives in Thailand working as a tour guide for groups from the Netherlands.
Sorry, have I droned on?
Best wishes to everyone,
John
Thursday, February 21, 2008
Vietnam and Thailand '08 day 3
Vietnam and Thailand '08 day 3
Quieter day today, had a good look around Ho Chi Minh museum, which covered his life from early days at school and as a student near and in Hue, through his struggle for independance from the french achieved in 1949 and the unification of Vietnam in 1969. He died in 1969. Known as Uncle Ho, he is revered throughout the country.
Next did the whole riverside walk on the south bank followed by an early evening meal at Bloom Restaurant. This is staffed by students in support of an organisation called 'Aid to Children Without Parents Inc'. Very clean and smart, excellent food and service, friendly as it seems everywhere/one is in Vietnam, I think I'll be coming back here.
Traffic lights in Vietnam have a digital display of how many seconds remain before lights change, red reducing seconds when on stop, green when on go. What a good idea I thought. Quite a few moped riders ignore red lights of course, especially when turning right. As previously reported, the rules of the road appear to be optional. The fact that they drive on the right does not mean that nobody drives on the left. There are very few cars in Hue so it is mostly mopeds and bicycles and they have developed great skills in avoiding collisions with other mopeds, cars, bikes, wandering english pensioners, etc.. Crossing the road is exhillerating stuff.
A very pleasant day.
If we could all be as happy as people are here, the world would be a better place. It's a really nice place to be.
So best wishes for happiness to everyone,
John
Quieter day today, had a good look around Ho Chi Minh museum, which covered his life from early days at school and as a student near and in Hue, through his struggle for independance from the french achieved in 1949 and the unification of Vietnam in 1969. He died in 1969. Known as Uncle Ho, he is revered throughout the country.
Next did the whole riverside walk on the south bank followed by an early evening meal at Bloom Restaurant. This is staffed by students in support of an organisation called 'Aid to Children Without Parents Inc'. Very clean and smart, excellent food and service, friendly as it seems everywhere/one is in Vietnam, I think I'll be coming back here.
Traffic lights in Vietnam have a digital display of how many seconds remain before lights change, red reducing seconds when on stop, green when on go. What a good idea I thought. Quite a few moped riders ignore red lights of course, especially when turning right. As previously reported, the rules of the road appear to be optional. The fact that they drive on the right does not mean that nobody drives on the left. There are very few cars in Hue so it is mostly mopeds and bicycles and they have developed great skills in avoiding collisions with other mopeds, cars, bikes, wandering english pensioners, etc.. Crossing the road is exhillerating stuff.
A very pleasant day.
If we could all be as happy as people are here, the world would be a better place. It's a really nice place to be.
So best wishes for happiness to everyone,
John
Wednesday, February 20, 2008
Vietnam and Thailand '08 day 2
Vietnam and Thailand '08 day 2
Walked to the market today, it's 1/4 mile long x about 100m, some outside, some covered including a 2 storey building similar to the one in Ha Noi. Stalls packed together and piled high with everything you can think of. Very narrow passageways between stalls, packed with local people, very few westerners. All very friendly, bought a Hue teeshirt,water, milk powder, (can't find liquid milk) washing powder. Who needs supermarkets, haven't seen one here yet. Even away from the market it's just small specialist shops everywhere. All very friendly but they will sell you the entire contents of the stall if you let them. Really enjoyed soaking up the atmosphere/bustle/culture of this place. One interesting observation: despite wet mucky roadways and paths, dirty buildings due to the pollution and mopeds roaring around everywhere kicking up spray, everyone is very smart and cleanly dressed, especially the ladies. How do they get their clothes so clean? certainly not in the river although I have seen some people doing washing in it but it's very dirty water. They must be using the laundries which are numerous here, not coin operated but people who take in washing.
After the market, walked through a large north-riverside park with raised beds all nicely planted out. It had obviously not fully recovered from the recent flooding though, with many paths still covered in mud left when the water subsided. The city is divided by the Perfume River, so-called after some sweet smelling flowering plants found up-river. The river is very wide and flows not much below the surrounding flat land on which the city is built. London and Hue have the same motivation for combatting global warming.
Ate in the hotel restaurant, an excellent viet meal, followed by early night!
Hope everyone fit and well,
John
Walked to the market today, it's 1/4 mile long x about 100m, some outside, some covered including a 2 storey building similar to the one in Ha Noi. Stalls packed together and piled high with everything you can think of. Very narrow passageways between stalls, packed with local people, very few westerners. All very friendly, bought a Hue teeshirt,water, milk powder, (can't find liquid milk) washing powder. Who needs supermarkets, haven't seen one here yet. Even away from the market it's just small specialist shops everywhere. All very friendly but they will sell you the entire contents of the stall if you let them. Really enjoyed soaking up the atmosphere/bustle/culture of this place. One interesting observation: despite wet mucky roadways and paths, dirty buildings due to the pollution and mopeds roaring around everywhere kicking up spray, everyone is very smart and cleanly dressed, especially the ladies. How do they get their clothes so clean? certainly not in the river although I have seen some people doing washing in it but it's very dirty water. They must be using the laundries which are numerous here, not coin operated but people who take in washing.
After the market, walked through a large north-riverside park with raised beds all nicely planted out. It had obviously not fully recovered from the recent flooding though, with many paths still covered in mud left when the water subsided. The city is divided by the Perfume River, so-called after some sweet smelling flowering plants found up-river. The river is very wide and flows not much below the surrounding flat land on which the city is built. London and Hue have the same motivation for combatting global warming.
Ate in the hotel restaurant, an excellent viet meal, followed by early night!
Hope everyone fit and well,
John
Tuesday, February 19, 2008
VIETNAM'08 DAY 1
VIETNAM '08 DAY 1
Well here I am on the blog again. 3 flights via Bangkok and Ho Chi Minh City to Hue in mid-Vietnam, all went to plan. Thai Airways excellent, especially the meals. Festival Hotel in Hue friendly and helpful, comfortable room good shower. Weather cool (unusually very cold for them, 10 degrees) and overcast, 10 days rain stopped when I arrived. No flooding though, rivers are at normal level. Hue is the old capital of Vietnam and was badly flooded last year when I came with the group.
Excellent first day spent walking around 'The Citadel' (25 mins walk from hotel). It is about 1km sq. and contains The Imperial City which itself includes the Forbidden Purple City, the king's residence where no man other than the Enperor was allowed. Only him and his dozens of wives, any other man who entered was risking a terrible fate. A bit like Dorothy Perkins. It was all built by successive Nguyen Emperors from early 19th century. The Citadel contains many buildingsand walkways including Thai Hoa Palace (The Palace of Supreme Harmony) (1805). Here were held bi-monthly grand audiences and ceremonies of the Nguyen Court presided over by the Emperor sitting on the Throne escorted by male members of the Royal family. The Manderins stood in lines facing the Palace according to rank. Soldiers on the right, acedemics on the left, this we were told coincides with the two sides of our brain and their functions. The women had to stay at home and do the washing and ironing. Many other impressive structures remain including the massive Noon Gate and the To Temple which has a line of alters each for worshipping a departed King of the Nguyen Dynasty.
Many buildings were destroyed by the japanese and americans but quite a few still stand and others are being restored. The Duyet Thai Royal Theatre (1826) was designed for the performing of Classical Operas and Royal Arts (music, singing, dancing, plays). It still holds live performances, with which if you pay a bit extra, you can have a pasty and cup of .tea. There were 10 musicians playing various traditional vietnamese instruments, 4 actors in a very expressive play and 16 dancers/singers. Also 2 unicorns that looked like panto dragons (one in the front/head and one in the back like a panto horse) who danced around frantically, mated and produced a baby unicorn/dragon who dropped out of the back of one of the dragons and proceeded to dance also. The pasty was a bit dry but the tea was very nice.
After the Royal Arts performance, I walked what seemed miles around the grounds, buildings and remains of buildings. One elegant structure was the Throne Room where the Emperor received important guests. A side room contained an exhibition of beautiful and striking modern paintings by the artist Hoang Thanh Phong. Now 29, he was there and was very interesting to talk to. While subsequently I was looking through his book of paintings, he secretly sketched my portrait - I will show you when I get back to UK. He said I look like Uncle Ho (Chi Minh), a real compliment in Vietnam. I offered to pay but he declined saying it was a souvenier.
There are lots of lakes and moats, some with hundreds of lotus flowers floating on the surface - beautiful. The whole thing is an astonishing monument to Vietnamese culture, architecture and history, with much beauty and many impressive structures and artifacts remaining, but also much sadness at what has been destroyed.
A great start to this holiday.
All the Best,
John
Well here I am on the blog again. 3 flights via Bangkok and Ho Chi Minh City to Hue in mid-Vietnam, all went to plan. Thai Airways excellent, especially the meals. Festival Hotel in Hue friendly and helpful, comfortable room good shower. Weather cool (unusually very cold for them, 10 degrees) and overcast, 10 days rain stopped when I arrived. No flooding though, rivers are at normal level. Hue is the old capital of Vietnam and was badly flooded last year when I came with the group.
Excellent first day spent walking around 'The Citadel' (25 mins walk from hotel). It is about 1km sq. and contains The Imperial City which itself includes the Forbidden Purple City, the king's residence where no man other than the Enperor was allowed. Only him and his dozens of wives, any other man who entered was risking a terrible fate. A bit like Dorothy Perkins. It was all built by successive Nguyen Emperors from early 19th century. The Citadel contains many buildingsand walkways including Thai Hoa Palace (The Palace of Supreme Harmony) (1805). Here were held bi-monthly grand audiences and ceremonies of the Nguyen Court presided over by the Emperor sitting on the Throne escorted by male members of the Royal family. The Manderins stood in lines facing the Palace according to rank. Soldiers on the right, acedemics on the left, this we were told coincides with the two sides of our brain and their functions. The women had to stay at home and do the washing and ironing. Many other impressive structures remain including the massive Noon Gate and the To Temple which has a line of alters each for worshipping a departed King of the Nguyen Dynasty.
Many buildings were destroyed by the japanese and americans but quite a few still stand and others are being restored. The Duyet Thai Royal Theatre (1826) was designed for the performing of Classical Operas and Royal Arts (music, singing, dancing, plays). It still holds live performances, with which if you pay a bit extra, you can have a pasty and cup of .tea. There were 10 musicians playing various traditional vietnamese instruments, 4 actors in a very expressive play and 16 dancers/singers. Also 2 unicorns that looked like panto dragons (one in the front/head and one in the back like a panto horse) who danced around frantically, mated and produced a baby unicorn/dragon who dropped out of the back of one of the dragons and proceeded to dance also. The pasty was a bit dry but the tea was very nice.
After the Royal Arts performance, I walked what seemed miles around the grounds, buildings and remains of buildings. One elegant structure was the Throne Room where the Emperor received important guests. A side room contained an exhibition of beautiful and striking modern paintings by the artist Hoang Thanh Phong. Now 29, he was there and was very interesting to talk to. While subsequently I was looking through his book of paintings, he secretly sketched my portrait - I will show you when I get back to UK. He said I look like Uncle Ho (Chi Minh), a real compliment in Vietnam. I offered to pay but he declined saying it was a souvenier.
There are lots of lakes and moats, some with hundreds of lotus flowers floating on the surface - beautiful. The whole thing is an astonishing monument to Vietnamese culture, architecture and history, with much beauty and many impressive structures and artifacts remaining, but also much sadness at what has been destroyed.
A great start to this holiday.
All the Best,
John
Tuesday, January 29, 2008
Bovingdon - 29 Jan '08
Bovingdon 29 Jan '08
3 weeks in Tenerife very relaxing, especially enjoyed last week with Peter, Glenys and Angela.
Off to Vietnam again 12 Feb. to re-visit Hue to see this old former capital city and sites missed due to floods last year. Then to Bangkok and North Thailand for temples and culture followed by more sun in Phuket. More postings from 12 Feb.
All the Best,
John
3 weeks in Tenerife very relaxing, especially enjoyed last week with Peter, Glenys and Angela.
Off to Vietnam again 12 Feb. to re-visit Hue to see this old former capital city and sites missed due to floods last year. Then to Bangkok and North Thailand for temples and culture followed by more sun in Phuket. More postings from 12 Feb.
All the Best,
John
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